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Found 17 results

  1. Im finally nearly done this wakizashi which has been a personal project of mine since last fall, when I forged the blade out and did all the grinding and polishing. At the time I then had a bit of a break from the sword as I wasn't sure how to make a couple of the handle pieces with the tools I have. Currently it is technically done with the exception of the tsuba engraving and inlay work, which is requiring me to make some new tools and learn engraving. The blade was forge welded san-mai using hitachi white #2, nickel sheet, and wrought iron. At the time I didn't have a heat treatment oven (now I do), so it was heat treated in the forge, and water quenched. I did most of the grinding on a 4x36 belt grinder, and then moved to diamond plates, and then water stones to finish polishing. The final finish was then buffed with a fine purple compound and etched. I realize this is not traditional, but I kinda liked the look a bit more personally. The Tsuba is forged from wrought iron, and I filed the profile as well as the fit-up holes. The habaki was forged from a copper bar which was bent around the tang of the sword, and then forge welded together at the bottom. Since I don't have high enough power torches and my soldering skills are severely lacking, and I didn't want to do stock removal to make the fit-up of the habaki, I chose to do this. ( I did try soldering a couple times but i couldnt get it seemless enough.) The handle is yellow tarara which was rip-cut and then carved out to fit the tang. The copper spacer for keeping the handle tight was adjusted by hammering the thickness where needed. The koshirae was the piece that I had dreaded making for a long time, but I finally decided to forge it from wrought iron, and use stock removal to fit it. The menuki are bronze that I forged, filed, and (rather terribly) engraved into a wolf, and an owl. Since I got the taste for engraving, now Im going to inlay and engrave the tsuba, Ill update this post once thats done.
  2. Hi, I'm looking to build a 72 inch vertical forge with minimal volume. Does anyone have any advice on design? My basic plan is to use a steel pipe (8 inch diameter) lined with 2 inches of Kaowool. This will provide a 4 inch diameter mouth that runs the length of the pipe, which will give me enough room to hang longer pieces for a heat treat soak. I'm not looking for forging heat, but definitely need to get thicker steel to critical temperature for heat treat. I'm thinking about using a 3-burner system, evenly spaced along the length of the pipe to try to keep my heat even but I'm concerned that I'll end up with nasty hot spots around the burners. Is there a way to even out the heat better? Is 2 inches of Kaowool enough to provide efficient operation? Any and all advice is welcome! Thanks!
  3. Hello there, this is my first post to the I forge iron forums. Thank you for any help you can give me in advance. I'm working on forging some rapiers and I have run into an issue. I cannot find for the life of me a website that I can buy some thick sheets or plates of steel for forging out these large clam shell guards. I'm really bad at finding anything on the internet and up until recently I've only ever used salvaged steel in my work. If there are any of you out there that could point me in the right direction of where I could find something like quarter inch thick steel plate I would be very happy. Also, any recommendations on what steel I should use for this guard? It shouldn't be taking much of a beating so I want to be able to do detail work to this to pretty up the piece. I live in Jacksonville Florida so if any of you live nearby and could offer some name up of areas where I can a quote materials that would be very helpful as well.
  4. I am making a viking sword but now I am stuck on how you're supposed to make a straight fuller with a traditional tool (like the one below). Is there a special guide for keeping it straight?
  5. October 10th 2012 NOVA "Secrets of the the Viking Sword" Documentary 9PM/8Central some photos here: http://www.doorcount...s.com/NOVA.html In the Summer and Fall of last year I had the pleasure to be involved in the production of a TV documentary program focussed on the Viking Sword. The program was produced for NOVA (http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/) though the work of National Geographic and Pangloss Films (http://www.panglossfilms.com/). In October of 2011 Pangloss Films came to my shop and documented the making of a special sword based on the research of Dr. Alan William's of "The Wallace Collection" in London (http://www.wallacecollection.org/). Several years ago Dr. William's began a study of Ulfberht inlayed sword blades and discovered that the blade which carried a signature of a certain type appeared to have no slag. His work can be seen in several articles and his new book "The Sword and the Crucible" ISBN 9789004227835. I had the pleasure of spending a few weeks with Dr. Alan Williams in North India back in 2007 and can tell you he is an extremely insightful archeo-metallurgist. The program will discuss the importance of Dr. Williams' find, a particular blade housed at the National Museum of Denmark (http://natmus.dk/) as well as illustrate the manufacture and larger context of these cultural artifacts (My bit). We did the work in a charcoal forge with leather bellows on a stake anvil....more or less. Some of the smelting processes of manufacture are based on the research of Dr. Ann Feuerbach , currently at Hofstra University, and I await her book on the subject which she is currently authoring. For my part I enlisted a bellows and hammer man in the form of Kevin Cashen of Matherton Forge in Michigan (http://www.cashenblades.com/). Kevin and I have been friends for many years and in addition to being a deep well regarding European blades and a talented craftsman...I simply enjoy him being around. Kevin was a huge help to me for the film shoot as it is always a good thing to have someone around with his skills and depth of knowledge, but he preferred to be a bit more off camera than on. Thank you Kevin! Following the filming Kevin and I went to Arms and Armor in Minneapolis (http://www.armor.com/ ) and saw Chris Poor and Craig Jonson and were given a very good tour and handling session of the Oakeshott Collection.http://www.oakeshott.org/ In this project I was part of a greater whole and I believe this may be a defining watershed for the public to see what is possible by modern smiths. Peter Yost of Pangloss Films has produced may award winning features for TV and I look forward to seeing this program he has crafted. As to the sword I made? You will have to wait till the premier October 10th to see it. I will say it is the first of its kind in 1,000 years. Yours, Richard Furrer www.doorcountyforgeworks.com
  6. Well here goes nothing and I expect many people cutting the idea down but oh well I have always been know to do things this way. I am looking for as many tips and tricks as possible to enable me to forge out a replica of frostmourne a sword origionaly made as a single handed blade but a friend of mine wants it to be a two handed monster. Here is a picture of the blade itself. the dimensions he wants for this blade are as such. Width 110mmm just after the last two little horns Witdh 150mm between largest side horns Length 1095mm thickness of blade 14mm handle 400mm from end of handle to beggining of blade Guard 400mm from end of skull to end of skull I will be using a length of 14mm by 1000mm by 800mm spring steel as the original billet Pretty XXXX big at a total of 1500mm almost as tall as me. I know what I am asking is ridiculous but who ever got anywhere the easy way. With this project and all of my others I will be learning many of the skills I will need. I always seem to over do things but its the way I learn. So please any suggestions, tips, tricks or comments are welcome. I am especially in need of some commentary on the tang and hilt of the sword as the blade I can do without to much trouble. Thank you all for your help it will be much apreciated.
  7. Admanfrd


    Hi everyone, second day of smithing... Sort of. Can I get a short tutorial on how to hammer a bevel? I don't want to grind too much and lose density in the metal. Thanks!
  8. Howdy everyone. I am new to the forums, Just moved to Las Vegas Nevada and have all my own start up forge equipment. Alas I have no place to forge. I`m interested in all forms of smithing traditional, tool, blade, armor, etc. Anyone else in the area that my have a place or setup please contact me. I would love to set something up and meet the locals. Thanks for your time. Jaime D.
  9. Hi guys.. I've spent the last 3 months searching for a definiative answer to my sword riddle.. After much discussion with the Victoria and Albert museum Metal department, it seems by shear fluke that i have managed to un-earth a real Celtic Sword in the best condition they have ever seen with my metal detector. i collect swords anyway so as you can imagine i was W***ing when i found this regardless of what it was. The sword is 550mm long to the tang crank and weighs 776 grams or .76 kg, so fairly short and light This sword is so amazing to hold and nearly 2313 years old, yet due to being coated in silver it has survived in such amazing condition, it even still has design and pigment on it. (apparently painted after stamping) The silver coating is around 2mm thick, and the tang has quite a bit of bronze content, the core of the sword is good old iron, but somehow they achieved an amazing sword. It would seem that the maker covered the sword in design by using stamps that cleverly fitted together to make a Celtic design that covered the whole sword both sides, the majority of this has gone yet a few marks remain that allowed the museum to make this assumption. I can tell you now, that the design had parts to it that were smaller than 1mm yet consisted of multiple lines and designs within it. a true skill that i fear is lost in that respect. i wanted to show you guys the sword so you can learn of it, pattern it, and maybe one day replicate it. i would also be interested in commisioning someone to do this at some stage, but not quite yet, i would have to save considerably to do so. I've added some pictures and the last pic is what ive found on the sword to show the level of detail..(enlightened by me in photoshop) to make it clearer to see, the museum wouldnt except that it was alexander the great (Celts made a treaty with him during his reign) it even has an egyption ruler where his heart would be if you look close..this design is less than 3mm in length!! quite remarkable
  10. Okay I made a bad pun with the title so sue me :P What I want to look at here is information about modern technology and techniques that can be applied to sword smithing. This is just a theoretical idea thread not a "I am going to go make it now" thread so don't get agitated and attack me okay. I just want to tickle people's creativity and have a little fun, if we can actually come up with a usable concept then its a bonus. I though about posting this somewhere else on the forums but this was still the best to do so in. The first idea I want to look at is... Making a "Modern" metal blade. Okay so what do I mean about making a "Modern" metal blade. Well I mean a blade that takes advantage of the wonderful modern alloys that have been developed. The meat and bones of my idea though revolves around a concept found in the best blades, different parts. I am going to use the very basic example (basic in that most people who have exposure to swords should/might know this) of the Japanese Katana as a starting point, specifically the Honsanmai assembly method. Assembly structure With the Honsanmai assembly method you have a hard steel edge, a soft steel for the core, and medium steel for the skin. Please view the diagram to see the specific assemble structure... So instead of just using steels that have a varied content of carbon I was wondering about using a larger variety of steel alloys or not using steel altogether. Using a metal that holds a good edge in place of the edge steel, using a more malleable metal in place of the skin steel, using a metal that has good flex in place of the core steel, etc... Is this a understandable concept? A starting concept So to start things off the design that has been floating around in my head would be to have a hard yet durable alloy for the edge metal, I am still open to a carbon steel for this as it is the best steel for holding an edge I personally know. And then I was thinking of using maraging steel for the core and a mangalloy steel for the skin steel. Any thoughts on these materials or other materials that might be better?
  11. Full profile of my first sword attemp
  12. Came across this while surfing, hope it is informative if not entertaining. Tony Swatton of Sword & Stone takes us through the process of making Jaime Lannister's sword from Game of Thrones. http://www.break.com/man-at-arms/Forging-Game-of-Thrones-Sword/
  13. ace1

    Duel Swords

    Is it possible to make a sword that is one, but can split into two identical parts down the middle. As I have found researching this that most people say no its impractical ( they say this because if someone were to try wielding it as a singular blade it would jus fall apart). What I'm getting at is is it possible to have magnets inside the blades strong enough to hold it together but easy enough to pull it apart?
  14. Here it is up for judgement/admiration whatever you want. Just had to share this enlightening experience with everyone especially new smiths looking to do this type of stuff. I first of all only have about 5 months of experience, so please excuse the craftsmanship and the willingness to go ahead and do what all of the forums say not to do. But I like to think i am a responsible person but I couldnt resist making one of these. It started with a piece of T25 "S" of rebar, its the 1" stuff. I was flattening it with intention to make some stock for whatever reasons, but when it started to get flatter it started looking like a sword. To excited to stop I just kept going with it and its been a blast. Learned a lot from doing this project, especially about file work and how important good quality sandpaper(also Draw filing with sand paper+1). It is made out of T25 "S" rebar which would mean its just a little better than a xxxx, but it have a lot of these suckers i just decided to go with it because it would be good exercise in hammering, guard/pomel creation, and finishing. So tempted to try to heat treat this but I have put in way too many hours filing and sanding to stick it in the flame, and since this is just a wallhanger and not for use it was a mute point anyway. I did a hardening test on the material and it snaped so it has some carbon in it but whatever ill just order stock when i feel im ready. Anyway enough of the essay that is my post. I chose to make a langes messer or "Long Knife" because it has IMO the simple design that doesnt require fullering, that and I am really into European martial arts, especially the manuscript of Talhoffer. It is just a long knife with a sword like guard essentially. I also like how there is no specific design in the blade but have a few guidelines according my research. Its still a work in progress i have everything mocked up just waiting on sandpaper i ordered so i can finish the blade before i work on the rest. Well enough of the talk, here it is. Total Lenghth = 34" Blade length = 24" Cross Guard = 8" Dont you hate it when things like this happen..... Shitty guard work... I will be forging it to the blade next time..... Checking the balance.... Been balancing this thing since its creation. Just practicing for the future. Ps. The scales for the handle are not finished it very very rough. Made out of cedar/juniper smells goooood. -Tim M.
  15. Hello everyone, Thought I would share photos of my first sword. It is far from perfect but it taught me a lot of thing and pointed out a lot of my weaknesses. Some stats on the sword: *I use a propane/firebrick forge *the steel is car leaf spring steel *the handle is mahogany *the guard is a dragon from a single piece of steel *the blade was quenched in motor oil, tempered over a charcoal fire, and a torch was applied along the spine let me try one photo first, then more afterwards:
  16. Okay i want to get a sword but my dad is a convicted felon and i am still living with him, and a was wondering if it is illegal for him to have a sword in his house. We are in Vancouver Washington, and i tried to fined it some were on this sight just couldn't.
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