Steve Anderson

Hi Frosty. I am new here and in Eagle River, AK. I have been getting lots of info and suggestions for the other folks, and I am looking forward to meeting the locals when there is another opportunity, or trying to create an opportunity myself. :-) Best Wishes and be "lucky"

Along with your setup accomplishment, the straight razor looks nice. i saw that you have a grate underneath your forge. This is not something I considered doing as I move toward making what will be my first forge. I don't have any experience, but it looks like a good idea to me. Maybe it won't heat up like a plate of steel would so it gives you a place to put tools the you are using and is less of a hazard if people touch it. ?

I will be contacting Greer Tank and Alaska Steel this coming week. Do you know if either or both of them sell "simple" high carbon steels -- 1075, 1095, 1090, O1? While I will find out next week, asking you out there often helps me know more than the answer to the question I think I should ask -- such as the question(s) I should be asking to minimize surprises that might waste their time and mine. Best Wishes!

I went ahead and ordered a KMG. I was wasting time going in circles In my head. I am thinking that I will benefit from using a grinder that should not have manufacturing "quirks" so i can focus on developing my skill and experience -- not obsess about other possible issues and "should I haves." I was overwhelmed by the number of options. Than you for the info and Ideas. 《(Add cross link to related post)》

Thanks Jeddly THANKS for that information. Great to know. I have and can effectively use a drill press, 4.5" angle grinder, and a welder (Oxy/Ace torches). I am a hobbyist, artist, whatever... and do feel out of place with steel vendors who typically sell to people who know what they are doing, what they need, don't have such laieve questions, and buy quantities that and so much larger than I will use.

First off -- thank you for the replies! (Please see lower portion of this post for specific replies) Since writing the original question I have searched more and I am looking into getting a Grinder in a box (GIB) from Polar Bear Forge. Flat rate USPS boxes are a great way to receive stuff up here. I will post what I am thinking about getting if it seems to to be a good idea. The biggest issues continue to be shipping And my ignorance of what I need -- such as what motor(s) will work well with which VFD(s), what electrical work will be needed and can be done in my shop/house. (Maybe I need to find someone here to help me, since it is not fair to expect you all to supply the answers.) EXAMPLE Will this motor (3hp) or this motor (2hp) work well with this VFD and assuming my electrical system is "normal" for the US, should it be a trivial job for an electrician to install an appropriate outlet? I used Amazon as the preferred vendor since I can often get much lower (or free) shipping. even for a more powerful motor the lower shipping makes it much cheaper--and many of the ompanies will not ship to my address. Otherwise, For a motor like what is needed here, "regular" shipping is ~$110 to $150. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Norrin - the reasonable price lof the 2"x48" does make it an option to consider. I have a similar Delta tool with a 8" disc and a 4"x 36" belt that I bought used and it is quite useful for some things. A problem I have with mine it that the belt frame is wider than the belt and makes it impossible to cut in around the edge of the belt - wider by 0.5" on the left and 1.5" on the right. Thank you Wayne. I did also see the link to your site from Polar Bear Forge. Thank you Spanky, it is good to know that. I am hoping to hear from Frosty. I think Frosty is located about 1 hour (+/-) Northeast of me.

Belt Grinder Info Rabbit Holes I have been spending a lot of time looking into what it would take to have a good 2 x 72 (inch) belt grinder (e.g. KMG). I am in Eagle River (AK). Just Buy One! Maybe Not... I found that companies do not ship here, or the cost is (not surprisingly) quite high. Before doing anything particularly foolish I am looking to you all for suggestions. Make or Buy? Is there a good option... I have not found sufficient info to be comfortable making a grinder, and in my ignorance I would likely get started and end up spending "a lot of money" and be the owner of a pile of parts -- particularly since I do not have access to a machine shop or the knowledge of where to get what and how to avoid issues that an experienced person could address easily. Avoiding Mistakes By Asking For Help I have looked at a lot of information on this topic, and what I am looking for now is regionally specific guidance. I Think I Missed A Sign On The Way In Please point me to a post that us noobs often need to be directed to since I doubt i am not asking something new. If you have a belt grinder that you like are you are relatively close-by, I would appreciate the opportunity to meet you and learn a bit about what you make/repair/etc. and what resources (vendors of parts, materials, services) you find helpful. Best Wishes

I posted a message (here on I Forge Iron) asking for some insight when I was given some "to be discarded" wood planer blades. The responses were very helpful and encouraging. Since I cannot heat treat the metal (that seems to have been) used to make these blades, I have started making some quick little project knives to help me learn more about knife making and working with hardened steel. So far I have made two little knife like objects that are both even useful. The planer Blades are approximately 12.5 inches x 0.75 inches x 0.06 inches. The blades a laminated M2 Steel. As I understand so far, M2 steel is more hard than it is tough so I will avoid using it for applications requiring impact resistance -- or where failure is likely to lead to injury or death.

Thank you all for the replies! I asked the question to see what insight I would gain from the responses. And all your responses ThomasPowers & metalmangler - You both made a good points about purpose, perspective and also reminded me to focus on what I am trying to get out of this activity. I did a quick test on the planer blades before I even tried to find out what they were -- I cut a blade into three pieces (using an angle grinder), heated the pieces to red hot (with my oxy/ace torch) one at a time, plunged each of the hot pieces into a jar filled with vermiculite for the parts to cool relatively slowly. The pieces showed no sign of softening that I could detect. I was surprised, so it was a good experience to have. Frosty - I was not able to be at the meeting. I had been following the notice info but I was needed at home. Hammer workshop?! I will need to look into that. :-) BIGGUNDOCTOR - Thank you for the reminder that I could use them for stock removal projects! I had been focused on one use and had not yet re-opened my mind to other possibilities. Last night I made a 4.5 inch little test knife like object for practice. It is kind of a neat little tool. I used it to cut up the veggies for the pot roast I made today.

What do you think...? The Story I was given used/discard planer blades that I wanted to anneal and use as raw material for other items (e.g. little knife blades). They are M2 High Speed Steel. I have been reading a lot of information about using scrap steel from this and that--I really like the idea of repurposing material that would otherwise be thrown away. For example: It apparently use to be true that you could get saw blades from a mill and cut them up to make tools. After looking into the thermal treatment guidelines for M2 steel I think I would be better off buying an appropriate material. I am starting to think that the info I've read that questions the wisdom and economics of trying to use "unknown steels" may be more right than I had hoped. That trying to use "scrap" is likely to be a frustrating, often fruitless, and maybe even dangerous activity. I will appreciate your thoughts and experience with using discarded material -- especially as it relates to the Anchorage and The Valley regions of Alaska. ------------------------------------------ M2 High Speed Steel Thermal Treatments HEAT TREATING INSTRUCTIONS HARDENING Critical Temperature: Ac1: 1530°F (832°C) Ac3: 1610°F (877°C) Ar1: 1430°F (777°C) Ar3: 1380°F (749°C) Preheating: To minimize distortion and stresses in large or complex tools use a double preheat. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1100°F (593°C) equalize, then heat to 1450-1550°F (788-843°C). For normal tools, use only the second temperature range as a single preheating treatment. Austenitizing (High Heat): Heat rapidly from the preheat. For Cutting Tools: Furnace: 2200-2250°F (1204-1232°C) Salt: 2175-2225°F (1191-1218°C) To maximize toughness, use the lowest temperature. To maximize hot hardness, use the highest temperature. For punches, dies, and tools that require maximum toughness without hot hardness: Furnace: 2075-2175°F (1175-1191°C) Salt: 2050-2150°F (1121-1177°C) Quenching: Pressurized gas, warm oil, or salt. For pressurized gas, a rapid quench rate to below 1000°F (538°C) is critical to obtain the desired properties. For oil, quench until black, about 900°F (482°C), then cool in still air to 150 -125°F (66-51°C). For salt maintained at 1000-1100°F (538-593°C), equalize, then cool in still air to 150 -125°F (66-51°C). Tempering: Temper immediately after quenching. Typical tempering range is 1025-1050°F (552-566°C). Hold at temperature for 2 hours, then air cool to ambient temperature. Double tempering is required. For large cross sections, and especially for blanks from which tools will be cut by wire EDM, triple tempering is strongly recommended. ANNEALING Annealing must be performed after hot working and before re-hardening. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1525-1550°F (829-843°C), and hold at temperature for 1 hour per inch (25.4 mm) of thickness, 2 hours minimum. Then cool slowly with the furnace at a rate not exceeding 50°F per hour (28°C per hour) to 1000°F (538°C). Continue cooling to ambient temperature in the furnace or in air. The resultant hardness should be 248 HBW or lower.

I am sorry to have missed the meeting. I was needed elsewhere. I had been particularly looking forward to getting to meet some of the folks near by (Eagle River, AK). Best Wishes! I am not giving up. :-)