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Found 151 results

  1. McGee Ranch Blacksmithing

    57 hours

    Hand forged leafspring with custom finger guard, mosaic handle pins, redwood burl, custom graphic designs by me. g10 liner on front,back.middles of tang. double edged super penetrator profile for dispatching hogs.

    © MCGEE RANCH BLACKSMITHING

  2. I was cleaning my workspace earlier this week and I found a piece of rebar under my anvil stand from my failed attempt at making tongs. I needed to get my friend a Christmas present and I know he likes knives so what happened next is obvious. Took about an hour or two (not counting the time in the oven for tempering) total of work to do. This is my third knife and I think it’s better than my first and failed second attempts. The reason the blade looks cracked is it wasn’t cleaned off completely in the photo. I wish I had an anvil with a hardy hole and some hardy tools; it would have made bending the handle much easier. The tip was purposely not worked much because I didn’t want to screw it up with barely any charcoal left and Home Hardware closed for Christmas. This wasn’t meant as a heavy-use item otherwise I’d have made it from one of the HUGE leaf springs I got for free. What do you think of it?
  3. Hello to you all! I've realize this little new friend from a forge weld test, and it look quite good to use! I will spend much more time sharpening it with some stone!
  4. Hi all, this is my first post here. I've been working with steel as a blacksmith and welder for about five years and have made a few knives from 1085 and 1095. I have some 15n20 that I am going to use to make my first attempt at pattern welding and wanted to know if anyone has ever used 15n20 as a blade. My thought was to make a shaving razor, and it would probably hold up better than a carbon steel under the conditions. Has anyone used 15n20 as a blade steel and if so what was your experience with it?
  5. First blade of 2019! W2 cutting edge stacked with a twist core and wrought iron spine. Blade was deeply hot blued then sanded back ever so gently to make the pattern pop. Cast bronze fittings with buffalo horn. Theo
  6. How much would you pay for this knife i have carried it for a while and friends and family ask me how much for a knife like that and i do not know what to give them for a price...i do not want to over price it nor under price my work so can anyone help oh and its 1095 steel with kirinite scales and that is the only pic i have of it new
  7. Last blade of 2018, woot! Happy new year yall! Forged 80CrV2 full tang drop point with hamon. The blade is blued for added protection against the elements. Handle is buffalo horn with 3D printed cast bronze fittings - I like to leave a bit of the casting texture on the bronze for character. See ya next year! Theo
  8. I am happy to finally show off the economy custom chopper series we've been working on the past six months! The blades are all 80CrV2 high carbon tool steel forged to shape, rough ground, and heat treated by yours truly; then final ground and assembled by Justin Kirck, who also made the leather sheathes. Handle materials include stabilized burls, hybrids, micartas, and hardwoods. While this isn't the completed set, the choppers here are great representation of the fun materials we got to play with. Truthfully, and I will only say it here; this was way more work than we thought it was going to be, and we struggled to keep up with the timeframe the whole time. Who knew teaching and do a run of knives would be a lot for just two people?! :3 More collaborations are on the horizon, I will keep yall in the loop! TheoRockNazz.com - JustinTheBlacksmith.com
  9. Pair of ulu’ish knives diffrentialy tempered 1095 brass and cocobolo left them in the etch a little too long but they ended up really pretty anyway du
  10. So i made myself a chefs knife out of o-6 tool steel being lazy i did not want to drag out the forge just to heat treat one knife so i grabbed my torch and went with a simple diffrential heattreat not expecting anything other than function.... this is what i got. Once i realized i had a hamon... my first all be it boring as no clay was involved i had to go all out on the fittings. I went with solid copper scales soldered to the tang then hammered and polished the blade was etched in my vinigar picle bath i use for removing scale 10 min then rubbed with silk then 10 min soak anout 6 cycles Tell me what ya think du
  11. It seems I have been a good boy this year!! I just received my copy of " Introduction to Knifemaking" by Steve Sells. I wasn't expecting it until January, this is a nice surprise indeed. Thanks again for all the hard work you put into this book Steve, it is greatly appreciated. John
  12. Hiya folks, I had a day all to meself at the shop few days back and made an incense holder and a housewife's knife for my better half. The incense holder looks a bit too short here, I had no measurement for it, just went by feel. It turned out allright though, all the ashes have been caught so far. I made the knife from a piece of old hay rake spike, hardened and tempered. More on the type of knife: https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2013/12/28/emannanveitsi-womans-knife/
  13. *I realize I accidently posted in the blacksmithing forum instead of the bladesmithing forum...however I am finding it difficult to put this in the appropriate area, my apologies!* So I'm working on my second knife project (posted my first one earlier), and I had some questions with regards to the heat treat (which I am planning to do tomorrow). The piece itself is a dagger I am working on out of 1095 steel. I have the profile and grinding done for it, and am getting ready to heat treat, but a bit nervous about the quench. I am planning on using clay along on the spine of the dagger on both sides, but wasn't certain if there was a certain time to apply the clay, or if you just put it on before you begin heating the blade for the quench? I was thinking this would help keep the spine from getting overly hard and brittle, which would give the dagger more strength and flexibility of movement when thrusting into hard objects (not that this is the intention, just trying to learn and practice things for now.) I also was thinking this might help prevent cracks/breaking of my blade for the quench. The reason for this is because I am going to attempt to quench the blade in water, not oil... I am going to use some hot railroad spikes to heat the water up, which I am hoping will decrease the chance of any serious damage to the blade. My question there is, when I got to quench the dagger, do I plunge it in tip first with the edges perpendicular to the ground, or the flat of the blade? Are there any hints, tricks, or tips that could help me from ruining this piece? (I mean if I did, I would treat it as a lesson learned...but I'd like to avoid a catastrophic damage if possible). Also, any advice on fixes if the blade develops a warp or a crack during the quench? Thank you all for reading this....hope I made sense above haha.
  14. Hey There! Thanks for letting me be a part of this wonderful group. This Sunday just passed I had my first blacksmithing lesson with London Blacksmith Kevin Boys and managed to come out with this basic Viking ladies knife (I think? ), pictured below, in a little over 2 hours! I have been simply obsessed with blacksmithing for about 2 years now, but haven't been able to pursue anything... Partly to do with living in central London ( You know how hard it is to find a forge in London?!) and also with me finishing my University studies. This is the first time I have been able to put things id learnt on paper into actual physical use and nothing has ever felt better! Its so primal and elemental! I thought I would join the group so I can learn more and more every day, and that I can also keep some folks up to date with my progression in my weekly 2 hour class and my quest for a reasonably priced workshop! Thanks all and hello!
  15. so as a newbie if i was to go and try to forge a knife out of a leaf spring- after checking for cracks in the stock- what is the worst that could happen if i "forged it wrong" i really know nothing about this so please let me know what i am dealing with. cracking? shattering? also if this is already discussed in another thread then pls redirect me. thanks in advance i dont really care if my knife stinks, but what are the dangers of breaking etc.
  16. Ok I'm starting a new hobby hope to make a few hunting style knives myself. I'm hoping to keep the cost down at this point so salvaging and reusing parts as much as possible. I been collecting parts I believe are necessary. So far I have, 1. Big old anvil and assorted mini sledge hammers. 2. Used freon gas tank. Planning on fabbing a propane forge. Pretty much getting ideas off you tube. (Is it to thin?) 3. Motor for belt sander (need to know best way to make this. What size belt? How do I make the pulleys? Pulley tensioner?) 4. Black pipe and assortment for burner. 5. Working on making 2 burners as of today. See what works best. 1st. will be a high pressure line to a benzo nozzle, using tank 20lb. pressure. 2nd style is regulator with gauge to fabbed up nozzle using assortment of 1" and 3/4" pipes with reducers and nipples, stoppers etc. Guess I just looking for tips and ideas of how to get my shop together. What's am I missing? What mistakes can you guys and girls help me avoid as a complete novice. I will check this any post for questions I can answer to help you help me. Any info is much appreciated and look forward to learning more about this timeless skill. Happy
  17. Hi, I'm fairly new to forging and am having issues with my blades rusting alot. It seems like every time I make a knife 1-2 weeks later I will look and see light rust building up on the whole blade... any ideas on how to keep this from happening?
  18. Hello people ,well as my title says I have very limited tools , meaning I don't really have power tools and all that sort of thing but I wanna make a knife. I know I sound weird talking about how I have nothing but I wanna make something, but the design is somewhat simple, like a kiridashi knife. Um for the steel , I have what appears to be a lawnmower blade ? But smaller. How would I go about trying to make this without power tools and stuff , I have files and just tools that I need to put more effort into but I don't mind. Also , the bevel , would I be able to get it somewhat "Razor sharp"? This way ? If anyone thinks I can , please list out things I would need that would replace power tools , Thank y'all in advance.