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Showing results for tags 'knife'.
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So I've already made a post about using spring steel for a makeshift anvil and welding spring steel. I got a lot of support and help! But I was wondering about heat treating spring steel. So I've heard from a couple different knife makers that spring steel is a pretty good material to make knives out of, but spring steel is already hardened (at least the spring steel I have). So I have a couple of questions: - If your making a knife out of spring steel that is hard enough to dull a drill bit but soft enough to have a file just barely dig into it, does it need to be hardened further? -
So I've read through here a few times but I can't seem to find the answer to my question, so, what sort of etch/finish should I use for blades and knives that will prevent rusting but also not ruin the heat treatment? Also, if anyone can tell me how to blacken blades that would be appreciated, as well as if anyone has any information on russeting. Thanks in advance. -
Hey guys, been a long time since I’ve posted, thought some might be interested in one of my latest little projects. My dad was throwing away a worn out chainsaw chain (too worn to be resharpened). I decided to try and forge it into a knife. first step I simply took the worn dirty chain, and wrapped it in thin steel wire to keep it in one piece. I proceeded to forge weld it, and folded it until I was happy with how solid the billet felt. No cleaning of the steel was required, however a high temperature and proper atmosphere were absolutely necessary, especially at the beginning as it was t
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“Ghost” 80CrV2 with mild San mai. Approx. 7” blade. 10.75” overall.
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with the steel bar obtained forging a rail road clip I made a single-edge push knife. handle scales asymmetrical also in thickness of chestnut briar. brass pins and black-forge finish.
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Hello everyone, this is my first time posting on this forum, I started forging as a hobby a couple years ago and I am a beginner in the craft. I forged three blades so far, and only the first didn't break in half and actually made it to being an actual knife, but it was very short in comparison to my third blade. The second blade broke when I tried, foolishly, to straighten it in the vise right after quenching. I come to you for advice on why my third blade broke, so here is the detailed process it went through, from forging to tempering : The steel is from a used crop lifter
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Hand forged leafspring with custom finger guard, mosaic handle pins, redwood burl, custom graphic designs by me. g10 liner on front,back.middles of tang. double edged super penetrator profile for dispatching hogs.© MCGEE RANCH BLACKSMITHING
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
© MCGEERANCH
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
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© MCGEERANCH
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
© MCGEERANCH
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
© MCGEERANCH
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
© MCGEERANCH
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
© MCGEERANCH
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McGee Ranch Blacksmithing posted a gallery image in Knives
© MCGEERANCH
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I was cleaning my workspace earlier this week and I found a piece of rebar under my anvil stand from my failed attempt at making tongs. I needed to get my friend a Christmas present and I know he likes knives so what happened next is obvious. Took about an hour or two (not counting the time in the oven for tempering) total of work to do. This is my third knife and I think it’s better than my first and failed second attempts. The reason the blade looks cracked is it wasn’t cleaned off completely in the photo. I wish I had an anvil with a hardy hole and some hardy tools; it would have made bendi
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Hello to you all! I've realize this little new friend from a forge weld test, and it look quite good to use! I will spend much more time sharpening it with some stone!
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Hi all, this is my first post here. I've been working with steel as a blacksmith and welder for about five years and have made a few knives from 1085 and 1095. I have some 15n20 that I am going to use to make my first attempt at pattern welding and wanted to know if anyone has ever used 15n20 as a blade. My thought was to make a shaving razor, and it would probably hold up better than a carbon steel under the conditions. Has anyone used 15n20 as a blade steel and if so what was your experience with it? -
First blade of 2019! W2 cutting edge stacked with a twist core and wrought iron spine. Blade was deeply hot blued then sanded back ever so gently to make the pattern pop. Cast bronze fittings with buffalo horn. Theo
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How much would you pay for this knife i have carried it for a while and friends and family ask me how much for a knife like that and i do not know what to give them for a price...i do not want to over price it nor under price my work so can anyone help oh and its 1095 steel with kirinite scales and that is the only pic i have of it new
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Last blade of 2018, woot! Happy new year yall! Forged 80CrV2 full tang drop point with hamon. The blade is blued for added protection against the elements. Handle is buffalo horn with 3D printed cast bronze fittings - I like to leave a bit of the casting texture on the bronze for character. See ya next year! Theo
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I am happy to finally show off the economy custom chopper series we've been working on the past six months! The blades are all 80CrV2 high carbon tool steel forged to shape, rough ground, and heat treated by yours truly; then final ground and assembled by Justin Kirck, who also made the leather sheathes. Handle materials include stabilized burls, hybrids, micartas, and hardwoods. While this isn't the completed set, the choppers here are great representation of the fun materials we got to play with. Truthfully, and I will only say it here; this was way more work than we thought it was
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Pair of ulu’ish knives diffrentialy tempered 1095 brass and cocobolo left them in the etch a little too long but they ended up really pretty anyway du
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So i made myself a chefs knife out of o-6 tool steel being lazy i did not want to drag out the forge just to heat treat one knife so i grabbed my torch and went with a simple diffrential heattreat not expecting anything other than function.... this is what i got. Once i realized i had a hamon... my first all be it boring as no clay was involved i had to go all out on the fittings. I went with solid copper scales soldered to the tang then hammered and polished the blade was etched in my vinigar picle bath i use for removing scale 10 min then rubbed with silk then 10 min soak anout 6 c
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It seems I have been a good boy this year!! I just received my copy of " Introduction to Knifemaking" by Steve Sells. I wasn't expecting it until January, this is a nice surprise indeed. Thanks again for all the hard work you put into this book Steve, it is greatly appreciated. John
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Hiya folks, I had a day all to meself at the shop few days back and made an incense holder and a housewife's knife for my better half. The incense holder looks a bit too short here, I had no measurement for it, just went by feel. It turned out allright though, all the ashes have been caught so far. I made the knife from a piece of old hay rake spike, hardened and tempered. More on the type of knife: https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2013/12/28/emannanveitsi-womans-knife/
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