Latticino

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About Latticino

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    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. But are they rated for safe operation with propane? Label appears to indicate that they are for inert gas only.
  2. Some of those old anchor chains are made of wrought iron. If that is the case they could be worth on the order of 1 to 2 dollars a pound...
  3. IMHO the most helpful tool for knifemaking is a belt grinder, ideally a 2 x 72, so you are likely on the right path there. Be prepared though, abrasives are expensive and to work efficiently you will need a lot.
  4. Be aware that treadmill motors are hardly ever totally enclosed, fan cooled (TEFC) or washdown rated, so can be seen as a kind of long term consumable unless great care is taken to keep metal dust out of them. Particularly with a welded on drive wheel, you may want to take some care to keep it running as long as possible. Another potential issue is vibration. If your drive wheel is out of balance, at high RPM the vibration will become somewhat annoying. I like your drive controls box. Very nice job refitting the speed controller. With those kind of skills you should have no trouble cobbling together a filter box for your motor. As regards a static brush for the belt, I've never had static shock problems with my grinders, but YMMV. I think it becomes a lot more of an issue if you use the phenolic or rubbber coated wheels and particularly if you have a glass or ceramic covered platten. Don't quote me on that one though, I've not done any testing.
  5. No idea. Never heard of proximal taper being used in knife terminology. Makes sense only if you view a knife as having particular directionality, I guess, which arguably blades have. Sure, why not.
  6. Distal taper is a lengthwise taper. Your second photo appears to show that, but could just be parallax. As I mentioned earlier, I think that is a good feature.
  7. Looking good. I don't see anything wrong with the size of the tang. I prefer the tang to have a distal taper if possible. Kudos to you both for the clean joint between the front of the handle and the integral guard/ricasso section. The one main area I see for improvement is in your plunge grind. I'd like to see it crisped up quite a bit, symmetrical on both sides of the blade, and set a bit further back towards the handle. Of course these suggestions are mostly just aesthetic and meant to achieve some conformity with standard knives of this size. The last will give you more cutting edge for your knife and get rid of some of that "wasted" front of the ricasso, but in the end you have a good working petty knife there. The pins are particularly well executed. Did you use Corby bolts?
  8. Consult your local building codes for information regarding flue terminations and penetrations of a structure built with adjacent combustible materials. You may be able to "get away with" some of the options you are proposing, but in the event of a potential fire, if there were any questions regarding the installation your insurance may balk about covering any losses. I don't know how things go in your area, but depending on whether you are burning coal or coke, the neighbors may object more to the smoke and smell than an unsightly stack rising the correct distance above your roof. Note that the IMC lists 3' above the adjacent roof as far as I know, not 4'. I have no information on the type of induced flow system that you show in the photos, other than theoretically it should work (in a fairly similar fashion to the linear induction that takes place with NA burners using high pressure gas flow to entrain combustion air). Personally I'm more a fan of systems that don't require a loud blower to properly vent a hood (though this design keeps the exhaust fan out of the hot flue airstream at least, which is a defect in most other types I've seen proposed), and the super sucker design seems to work very well. Please take a look at the original blueprints on the site from Uri Hoffi. If I recall correctly he has his stack penetrating a side wall , then running exposed and vertical on the side of the building
  9. Very nice. One of the prettiest hammer eye punches I've seen. Lovely work as usual Dave.
  10. A lot depends on what you mean by "soft". If from a deformation standpoint, John's (JHCC) explanation of sliding of the layers of the metallic lattice certainly follows what I remember from my Material Science classes lo those many years past. If, however, you mean machinability (or essentially resistance to abrasion) I think you have to take into account the shape of the iron, and other, carbides that can form in various types of steel. Depending on the heat treatment process these can form in larger or smaller aggregations, and are most likely more evident in high carbon steels than in mild steel. In fact certain processes can result in flat lamellar plates of these carbides which can be quite resistant to drilling or saw cutting, while the rest of the steel matrix is very soft and fully annealed.
  11. Forging a hammer is not what I would typically recommend for a first project. Unless your "unreal" projects to date have been fairly instructive, I think you are setting yourself up for some trouble. It is a pretty large mass of steel to hold and manipulate and you need a number of tools and techniques to be successful. For example, you will most likely be going with mono steel for the head. You will need some tooling to punch the eye (unless you plan on drilling/filing or milling it out you will need a slitter, slot punch or hammer eye punch). Then you will likely want a drift to correctly size the eye to some kind of standard configuration so you can eventually attach a handle. You will also need a set of tongs that can hold that mass of steel. Two pounds doesn't seem like all that much to worry about until it is yellow hot and radiating heat like crazy. Then you want it extremely securely held and a good distance away from your tong hand. Then there are various top and bottom tools that make shaping the hammer easier. Have you got some kind of grinding equipment to use to finish the face? It can certainly be done with hot rasping, filing and hand sanding, but that is a fair effort. You are also going to want to heat treat the head after forging and finishing. Have you any experience with heat treating medium or high carbon steels? None of this is impossible to achieve, just difficult for a beginner without some onsite direction from a more experienced smith, and possibly, access to loaner tools. That being said, W1 can certainly be used for forging a hammer head, but I personally wouldn't use it. For me that would be too expensive a choice and has more carbon content than I think of as being required for hammers. You can make a great hammer out of 1045 or 4140 steel (source can be Car/truck axles from your local scrapyard or drops from local machine shops). You can even use old jackhammer bits for smaller hammers (as posted by JHCC recently). They are usually available for a few bucks at Home Depot rental counters after they get turned in for blade cracks.
  12. There is a guy on ETSY that sells a guillotine tool kit (xxxx), cut and ready to weld for $40. Can't provide a commercial link here, but if you have decent welding skills that seems like a pretty easy way to go.
  13. In this case I believe you are disputing terminology. This is one of the common problems these days with discussing heat treatment. The annealing that Buzz is , hopefully, referring to is spheriodal annealing, the one that anvil is referencing is subcritical annealing. The former involves entering the austinizing range and leaves the steel at its relatively softest state, for maximum cold workability. The latter is the final step in stress relief, used just before heating and quenching, to harden the blade while minimizing warping. This last is often labeled part of the three stage normalizing process, where each cycle is air cooled from descending temperatures starting above critical. Note that the former annealing will not work for most knife steels unless cooled slower than just holding in still air. Typically using either a programmable oven, or encasing is a very good insulator immediately after heating (like vermiculite or wood ash) is the technique. I sometimes just leave my blade overnight in my forge when it gets shut down. Close the doors and it has enough thermal mass to cool slowly. Couple of other minor points: The heat treaters app/book is intended for more industrial crossections than are typically used for blades. Follow it precisely without allowing for this at your own risk. I have found Kevin Kashen's site to be a true wealth of information on how modern bladesmiths heat treat current common knife steels. Strongly recommend that you look him up. Just looked back thru this thread and see that anvil made some great suggestions and clarifications, going to let this post stand anyway as it seems there are still questions.
  14. Not too hard. We do that all the time with cones, ice cream sandwiches and bars.
  15. Heck no, that isn't right. You need to open up the air inlet shroud to get air into your mixing chamber. Plenty of illustrations in the Burners 101 thread on what an acceptable flame from a NA burner should look like. Yours is starved for air. The gauge appears to have two scales PSI and the equivalent metric pressure gauge in BAR. In your photo you appear to be set at approximately 19 PSI (read on the inner, gray ring). The metric equivalent is 1.3 bar (outer colored ring). You should be adjusting the pressure with the knob on the regulator (the device near the gauge) not the isolation ball valve. The latter should be either open or closed (yours is cocked about 1/2 open). Typically I startup burners like that at lower pressure (say around 5 psi), then increase the pressure after the forge has a chance to warm up. Mike is most likely correct on the forge lining. Many of these cheaper commercial forges are more like forge kits, where you should finish them by coating the insulation. You should also look into some kind of door system (even loose firebricks will be better than nothing) after you get the burner working correctly. Why aren't you contacting the forge manufacturer for assistance? Don't they stand behind their products? PS: This is a gas forge, you have it in the wrong forum section, which may be why it has taken so long for folks to comment.