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I Forge Iron

Latticino

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About Latticino

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    Male
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    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. Unfortunately it is difficult to give you a good answer without more information about your custom forge burner that we don't know. You piping configuration and burner head characteristics will influence the blower you need in complicated to calculate ways, but easily subject to measurement. Make yourself a U tube manometer (or slant tube) and measure the static pressure downstream of the blower. If you can lay your hands on a pitot-static probe you can even test the active flowrate as well with a duct traverse. Most of the 5 HP Shopvacs I saw were rated to push 60 CFM. Most likely this i
  2. I'm not sure where you are getting this from. Last time I checked the code I didn't see anything specific for coal burning appliances. I also believe that the "acidic" nature of coal smoke only comes into play once the sulfur content of the coal comes into contact with moisture and creates sulfuric acid, but I could be wrong about that. Shouldn't be happening inside your flue in any case.
  3. It is possible you are looking for the wrong thing. Any HVAC sheetmetal fabricator should be able to set you up with either 10" spiral round duct (costly) or 10" round duct with a Pittsburg seam (longitudinal, snaplock seam - relatively cheap). You shouldn't need a Type B, double wall, chimney vent (very expensive) for the exhaust from a forge hood. However, the big issue comes when you are trying to make a penetration to the exterior of your shop. With conventional round ductwork you will need to have something on the order of a 18" separation from any combustible materials. You will nee
  4. John, Yes, I did something similar on this one using wrought and 5160 (but left the wrought proud for the visual effect):
  5. I recommend better than really clean. Grind the surfaces you plan on welding together to full bright to remove any surface mill scale or oxides and flux those surfaces as soon as they are heated. I think more aggressive fluxes than Alaskan flux may be needed for success with the higher chromium alloys, but don't have a formula for you. One trick that works is to put a piece of shim stock of high carbon (say 1075) between the two layers of leaf spring, as the spring will weld to that more easily. The other thing I've done is to use the spring as a kind of extended bit (that goes from edge r
  6. Melting temperatures for casting iron are much higher than for casting brass, and consequently it needs lots more power input and is MUCH more dangerous. I find it pretty unlikely that a standard 20A 115 V circuit (2.3 kW or 8 MBH, as a comparison, my forge likely is around 200 MBH and still can't melt steel, but would likely be able to melt cast iron at high fire) would be adequate to melt 200 lbs of brass, much less cast iron. Cross posted with Steve, who I completely agree with. As an aside, for the energy expenditure, safety equipment required, and risk I can't imagine casting
  7. Not to rain on your parade or anything, but you might want to consider the following: Gas grill regulators are not adjustable and not adequate. A NARB will still need a burner to be made, the perforated section is just the head of the burner. Soft firebrick needs to be rated for at least 2600 deg F to survive for long in a gas forge that is operating at typical forging temperatures. It won't survive regular thermal shocks well, will get eaten by flux, and won't tolerate direct flame from the burner. Helium tanks make fine forge skins (you could even use chicken wire in a pinch), prope
  8. Tough to reconcile with specifically being requested not to give any negative answers though.
  9. It is probably best if you ask whoever you bought your forge from. They are likely the best source of information. As others have hinted there are a lot of different forge and burner designs out there, and each is different. The time it takes for a forge to get up to forging temperature varies based on exactly what chamber temperature you are looking for (some folks forge at just above dull red, others at almost white hot), how much heat your burner/s put out (BTUH), how well that heat transfers to the forge interior (long or short flame, slow or fast flame, flame path <swirl>,
  10. I've enjoyed the show periodically, but wish we could get more of a window into how the bots are constructed. I suppose that has to be kept somewhat secret to balance the competition. Have to admit, it has my engineering senses twitching. On a related subject, has anyone seen Junkyard Wars? I watched it a couple of times and wish it was still available. Looking around for a method of seeing it streamed (or the original British version: Scrapheap Challenge. This kind of competition seems tailor made for the innovative smiths here.
  11. Are you having trouble sourcing a screen door spring to modify? Over here they are in most reputable hardware stores. The one on the closest door to me is around 20.8 mm in diameter and 93 mm long. I used directions from his website for rewiring a KBAC 72D VFD and they worked extremely well.
  12. On first review it sounds like you may have a blocked propane orifice in your burner, but there are other possibilities. How are you determining the "pressure was right up"? Do you have a pressure gauge on your adjustable propane regulator?
  13. Be bolder, some things in life you don't get a second chance at.
  14. I've used similar high fired ceramic tubes in the past. They are certainly designed for the temperature, but will still crack if exposed to thermal shock (rapid changes in temperature) or mechanical load (stock flipping off the anvil or getting launched from a hot cut and flying across the room). Just be careful is all I'm saying. I assume you have bubble-tight mortar joints between your steel manifold and the four tubes also? You certainly don't want a leak there either.
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