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I Forge Iron


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About Latticino

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    Senior Member

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    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. Here is another thought for you if you have issues with noise and want crushing power. Research fly presses. Unfortunately the used ones are a whole lot more common over in Europe, but if you can lay your hands on one you can do a whole lot of work even more quietly than a hydraulic press. BTW, I am also in a residential area with relatively close neighbors. I don't forge a whole lot with it, and am careful to keep inactive during evenings, but I have a small power hammer (Anyang 33) and haven't had any complaints yet. My shop has insulated and sheet-rocked walls to attenuate sound, a
  2. I agree in all particulars with Frazer's post. Just to add though: the edges of the face on a Hofi hammer aren't supposed to be sharp (or on any properly dressed hammer IMHO). If you look into his hammering technique you will find that he advocates use of these edges as directional fullers (by striking with an appropriately angled hammer head), and sharp edges would make this too aggressive an action. I'd try it for a bit and see how it works for you. You can always dress it to suit your style as required.
  3. Better and safer choice to accomplish your goals for pattern welding and damascus on a budget would be to either hire and train a striker, or build a simple tire or "Rusty" style power hammer. You still need fabrication skills, and a power hammer parts will likely cost at least $1K (depending on your scrounging abilities), but the build is less likely to be catastrophic and the end product likely more versatile. How much pattern welding have you done? You know it is certainly possible to do them by hand to see whether you truly want to continue with them. Regardless of the equipment
  4. Looking at the Emerson site it appears that their anvils are cast from 4140 steel. This is a good choice for anvils, but I believe that the H-13 used for Holland and Hoffman to be superior. In close to your price range I would personally choose either a Hoffman 105# Colonial Pattern or Holland 100# double horn. Of course shipping is an issue to consider as well.
  5. Given the choice between the two anvils you have linked I would go for the TFS anvil for primary bladesmithing. I personally don't care for a farrier pattern anvil, as they are optimized for other types of smithing (as Thomas has alluded to). If I was to look at a JHM anvil for blades, I would likely go for the AB Legend, as that is a more "flexible" pattern anvil, in my opinion (but they are currently out of stock). Of course both the JHM and TFS anvils are made of Cast Ductile Iron, which is an acceptable material alternative, but not as high quality as the true cast steel anvils fr
  6. And they say there is nothing new under the sun... Good job John. As far as increasing the usable size range, you might take some inspiration from adjustable jaw pliers like either of these:
  7. Other potential drawbacks as seen from photo: Belt tension system missing, or difficult to use Belt tracking micro adjustment missing. Idler wheels are stacks of ball bearings? General flimsy construction Drive wheel diameter (what is belt SFPM?) I'd take a Grizzly, or homebuilt over that any day.
  8. Really excellent! I had no idea where you were going with the grate in the sketch. Love it as a display "shelf". Only drawback is lots of cool joints covered by the axes when hung.
  9. Looking at your first photo of the operation it appears that you have greatly differing flowrates coming out of different ports in your multiport burner. If we assume the forge is at a relatively even temperature the walls should radiate the same IR back to each port of the burner block and the flow pattern should convect a similar amount of heat to each port as well. Of course this is just an ideal case, which clearly is not happening here. It appears to me that the lower flowrates for the perimeter ports are leading to less cooling by the air/gas mixture and overheating of said ports, all
  10. I always recommend use of a regulator for exactly the reasons that Buzz and Thomas indicate.
  11. You can certainly use the regulator instead of the needle valve. I feel they are typically more accurate and linear throughout the modulating process (i.e. one turn varies the flowrate a more fixed amount regardless of where in the adjustment you are as opposed to the needle valve where the amount of change of flow/turn varies depending whether you are close to open or not). However needle valves are typically cheaper, act faster, and can be located in close proximity to the air valve so you can adjust your air/fuel proportion easily. On my forge I bypass the issue altogether by using a zer
  12. Specs I linked indicate material required is 90 lbs./cubic foot. Simple math will tell you what you need (hint: 1/2" = 0.0417').
  13. If you have trouble getting up to temperature, drill out the orifice. Not required with a forced air burner. You may also want to investigate a longer mixing chamber.
  14. Online codes for the US located here: https://codes.iccsafe.org/search/map . Referenced codes, like the NFPA 211 I mentioned, can be more difficult to source for free, but google searches usually can help.
  15. Just be aware that building code in most locals requires a specific separation between your chimney for a solid fuel appliance (coal, coke, charcoal, corn... forge) and any combustible materials. For example if you penetrate your roof and have a shingle over wood sheathing roof with wood beams, or are going through a wooden shop wall. There are two primary paths to compliance that I am aware of. You can go with a thimble like Jennifer has, or use a special commercial pre-insulated duct section that is rated for zero clearance. The thimble is constructed of non-combustible material, mai
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