Latticino

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About Latticino

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. Latticino

    52100 tempering?

    Kevin Cashen gives some great info on heat tratment for 52110 (as usual) here: http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/52100.html , but does not specifically detail tempering temperatures, as these are variable depending on what ultimate hardness you are trying to achieve. However, a quick 5 second google search has one supplier, specialty metals, recommending a minimum of two tempering cycles at a minimum of 400 deg. F. As regards flexibility, a thin crossection will make your knife more flexible (1/8" thickness is very thick for a paring knife, IMHO). Proper heat treatment and material selection will ensure that it doesn't either take a set after a bend or break while bending, but the actual amount of flex under a fixed load is proportional to the blade thickness for most steels, as far as I know. Personally I don't know why you would want a paring knife to be flexible, but I"m sure we have different ideas regarding what an ideal paring knife will be used for.
  2. Latticino

    Hard-facing a Russian anvil.

    Other than the cost of the energy for welding and anvil preheat, cost of the welding rod and grinding wheels/discs, and value of your time for welding, heat treating and grinding I don't see any reason why not. Looks like a fun project. I'm impressed that you were able to stand so close to the 400 deg. anvil mass while surface welding. Looks like some nice clean welding beads to me; from a distance anyway.
  3. Latticino

    Press pump problem??

    Hmmm, looks just like my shop, except it is about 4 times as large, has higher ceiling, is cleaner, better constructed, better organized...
  4. Latticino

    Press pump problem??

    No expert here, but if it is a 3 phase motor it is certainly possible to reverse the rotation direction by switching a pair of wires. This may even vary based on the wiring of your breaker panel, so replicating what you had at your previous shop will not necessarily duplicate rotation at the new one. My suggestion would be to detach the motor from the pump and ensure you can run the motor in the correct direction before hooking it up. From the photo it looks like that should be very straightforward. Once you verify motor operation you can go on to see if your pump and hydraulic system are still working. Hopefully someone with more hydraulic experience will chime in with other potential failure modes for hydraulics and controls as all I can do is speculate there.
  5. Latticino

    TKOR burner issues

    Hopefully he went directly to the King of Random and got direction there. Always best to go to the burner designer for details.
  6. Not up on Kinyon hammers either, but to help diagnose for those in the know I suggest you give info on your compressor that is not just the storage size and maximum pressure, but the pressure rating at a certain airflow (i.e. 95 PSI at 11 SCFM). That being said, your tank size seems adequate and the maximum pressure is in line, however, big hard hitting air hammers are real air pigs. The Big Blue 110 hammer in our groups shop needed a compressor that cost almost as much as the hammer...
  7. Latticino

    Finishing wrought iron blade

    Here is what I do for Wrought/High carbon mixes: After heat treatment sand all surfaces up to fairly high polish (say 600 grit at least). Clean thoroughly with first soap and water, then acetone. Etch in a 25% solution of Ferric Chloride and distilled water. Scrub with old toothbrush to remove oxides periodically during etching (wear rubber gloves). Neutralize after etch with Windex, or similar product with lots of ammonia. I've seen some great results on pattern welded steel with a final soaking in very strong coffee, but have no idea how that works with wrought. Good luck. Post photos of your results.
  8. Latticino

    1 1/2 tongs beginner stock

    Check the Machinery Handbook, pdf avail online. They have a nice chart with V bit tong dimensions, then just do the math.
  9. Latticino

    Thoughts on hand crank blowers

    A good hand cranked blower* is a joy to use, provided you are forging either hard lump charcoal or bituminous coal. If you have anthracite coal you may find it hard to keep your forge lit as that coal seems to prefer a more continuous air blast. One of the key advantages other than not needing electricity and the minor noise you get from some electric blower (or the amazing obnoxious noise you get from a shop vac or leaf blower) is that for a noob you are a bit less likely to run through coal as quickly. No forgetting to turn down the air when you are hammering... Another is that, at least in my experience, you are less likely to burn up your metal, though you certainly still can if you get carried away. I've found it also helps me to remember to soak a "hopefully to be forge welded" piece of stock in a low air atmosphere before I go for a forge weld, as I juggle tongs, hammer and crank to get everything ready at once. *your hand cranked blower should continue to rotate after being brought up to speed at least one full rotation after you let the handle go.
  10. Latticino

    3/4" burner seems way too big!

    Yes, and any valves or regulators
  11. Latticino

    3/4" burner seems way too big!

    Try it out, but be sure to use gas rated fittings and pipe tape on your joints. No air quick connects.
  12. Latticino

    Buy a shear?

    This is a technique that has been popular in the art glass movement for quite some time (but of course they can use color as well as grey scale). The cane is assembled and fused in a large billet, then drawn down to the diameter desired. Finally chopped up into pieces and fused to a surface. Check this mosaic glass cane out from 1892 and the bowl with a simpler pattern from first century BC:
  13. Latticino

    Buy a shear?

    Hopefully someone with more shearing experience will be on soon to help you. One thing I do know from my limited experience is that if you are looking for real square crossections the shear will definitely distort it too much if you try to cut to exact dimensions. If I had to make quantities of material like this and wanted to have an accurate clean square I would investigate sourcing wire in a larger diameter then rolling and/or drawing it to accurate squares, then cutting it to length. Other options include laser or waterjet cutting, but those are quite a bit more costly.
  14. Tools of this type always remind me of R. A. MaCavoy's Lens of the World trilogy. Good luck and be safe.
  15. Latticino

    3/4" burner seems way too big!