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I Forge Iron

Latticino

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About Latticino

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. If I understand the OP correctly, the proposed coating is on the sides of the blade, but not on the edge. I suppose it will add a certain amount of corrosion resistance, and I like the way it doesn't cover up the pattern welded topography. However if being used as a corrosion shield, it is important to know how well it responds to scratching under standard usage. The sapphire face on my watch held up better than a normal crystal, but it still scratched pretty easily. If this scratches, there will likely be no way to polish it out... I think the key parameter is going to end up being
  2. Round by me that is the going rate (or slightly below) for a top quality anvil in great condition. Keep it that way and even if you don't decide to stay in smithing you likely won't lose much on resale. It certainly isn't a steal, but Hay Budden are very highly rated anvils.
  3. Hard to tell from the blurry, dark video, but I think I can see the following: You aren't getting enough air induction at any pressure for an even adequate flame. Most likely you have too large a MIG tip (or possibly obstructed one). After you cut it down, did you clean the orifice? Orifice tip location is very critical for tuning these burners. It needs to be centered in the mixing tube opening and any adjustments for lateral position need to be made very gradually and tested each time at different pressures. Did you follow the directions for making a Frosty Tee burner
  4. Most likely your nozzle opening size and position are the culprit. 1/6" is far too large for an effective burner of the size pictured. The larger orifice requires excessive gas flowrate to induce any air, which leads to the poor mixture proportion you originally indicated. I recommend that you tap the existing pipe cap (if it is drilled exactly on center) and fit it with a 0.30 MIG tip then move the pipe up and down in the bell reducer to achieve a proper neutral or slightly reducing flame.
  5. Were swage blocks made from steel often? I've only ever seen cast iron (or modern ductile iron) ones.
  6. No quote marks needed for that swage block. Very nice work on that one, I'd certainly be proud to have made it.
  7. Sounds like pre-ignition to me. Typically this is when the forge heats up and the flame front burns back towards the burner orifice faster than the air/gas mixture flows out of the mixing tube. As others have mentioned I'm not a big fan of that version of the Riel ventauri burner. The reducers used for the air induction seem too small and the gas pipe feed too large for efficient induction. I would first attempt to adjust the air for more induction by opening the air gates at the back of the burner. I suspect that any restriction at high fire will be a problem. Good luck
  8. Stunning work, even more than your usual production in my opinion. You wrote the book/s, and it shows.
  9. Recommend you join the New England Blacksmiths and Bladesmiths groups. They have classes, gatherings (a great one at Ashokan each September), meetings, and hammer-ins, as well as members that may be in your area. While I doubt that any individual will take on the liability of having a newer smith using their shop unaccompanied, you may be able to setup some personal instruction that would work as well for you and likely accelerate your learning curve quite a bit.
  10. That has little to do with draw, specifically, but more with code compliance with standard code. Of course the code itself is written to optimize a safe and economical installation, but I believe the 3' rule has more to do with fire/heat damage protection and potential reintrainment of fumes than proper vent draw. If anything, it was written around commercial appliances and fireplaces, not forge hood fume extractors. Still, it is code in most places and needs to be complied with (see blueprints for Uri Hoffi exhaust installation on this site, and reference the ouside vertical stack after th
  11. Essentially yes, but it is actually a 1.5" pipe size heavy wall stainless steel flame retention burner head originally manufactured by Eclipse (I believe): Note: the 125 CFM blower is the one I originally used in my setup, which was upgraded to a larger blower recently. It may still work for you, but take care with your air ducting.
  12. A couple of quick points that may be of help: Before recasting I would look into use of refractory cement to close up those small gaps. If you are careful about differential thermal expansion in that area (avoiding rapid changes in temperature) it should work. Mixture pipe size for a forced air burner is not as important as for a naturally aspirated one. You just need to have sufficient gas and air pressure to overcome the added pipe friction. If using bottled propane the gas pressure shouldn't be an issue. The air pressure available is dependent on the blower you selected.
  13. I have an Anyang 33 and close neighbors. No complaints to date, but am careful not to forge with power hammer at either early or late hours. The hammer is on a custom plywood stand, the shop is a detached garage, and the walls are rocked and insulated. I've not used a Big Blue 65, but have a 75. I would say the 75 hits harder, and a little slower, than the Anyang. Be very careful about compressor size for the Big Blue. You need to have not only the correct pressure at the required CFM, but also the capability to run for the desired duty cycle. For efficiency the Blue may also requir
  14. Looks a bit like mine also, even the cast table. Like mine a little light for serious forging use, but still a nice addition to the shop (and you can't beat the price ).
  15. The word Trenton inside a diamond:
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