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I Forge Iron


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About Latticino

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    Senior Member

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    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. I'd buy it at that price, immediately. A European pattern I'm not that familiar with. From my research, a classic French pattern, not too common here in the states. Collectors would probably love it, and looks like a good user as well. Just make sure it is cast steel, not cast iron.
  2. Looks like a great user at a fair price. See if you can get them to throw in the stand and tongs...
  3. I would forget about a scroll saw and press for a while. Scroll saw has pretty limited use for smithing or blade making and any press worth smithing with will run you over $2K. You would likely be better off with a HF portable bandsaw (and some good blades), 4 1/2" angle grinder (get the one with the paddle switch), a 1 x 30 belt grinder, PPE, and some quality abrasive belts. Learning stock removal is on the critical path to being a knife maker, whether you eventually forge your blades or not. Well worth the time to take a good class. Of course it will make you want to save up for a decent belt grinder and abrasive belts, but so it goes.
  4. Your best bet for starting out is going to go with the tried and true (and easy to heat treat) 1084/15N20 combination. If you can't get 1084, 1080 will also do. Note that these are certainly not stainless, though the nickel content of 15N20 will make it more corrosion resistant. Note also that Steve's comment is accurate regarding mystery steel. It typically is somewhat of a false economy to use it as you need to perform a lot of testing to ensure you will get acceptable results. The cost in fuel, time, abrasives... will generally not be worth it unless you have a regular supply of the same steel down the road (which is unusual for mystery steel). Finally, if you have a good source of wrought iron I'm sure you can get someone to trade for some simple 1084 steel. It is pretty rare though, so I doubt you have it just lying around on your old tool bench.
  5. If you are getting into this level of precision I recommend switching to tubing rather than continuing to work with standard ERW pipe. Tubing has much closer production tolerances...
  6. Personally I think that the only reason a needle valve is useful in a setup like yours is if the regulator is so far away from the forge that you can't see what is happening when you adjust it. As far as I'm concerned a regulator is more accurate, repeatable and safe than using a needle valve, but that is just me. Yes, my recommendation is that if you want to use your needle valve you find out what the highest pressure you want to run your forge at in high fire mode for that forging session (which will vary with forge temperature, is directly related to flame front speed, and intended to keep your flame burning right up to the burner outlet for stability) and set the regulator at that, then make your adjustments with the needle valve (just like using an oxy-acetylene torch). Also the quality of insulation on your forge, forge size and door design can have a huge effect on how efficiently it heats. Note that it is a huge oversimplification to categorically state that a forced air burner is more efficient than a NA one. They are certainly easier to tune, which can have a great effect on efficiency (especially if you can increase outlet area to keep a slower, shorter flame inside your forge longer), but there is only so much energy in each cubic foot of fuel...
  7. Unless you have an orifice, that you't need, at the connection between the 1/4" propane tubing and the mixing chamber, you need to open your needle valve.
  8. Dents or chisel marks? The latter are pretty common on older anvils. The story is that the anvil sides were used to test whether the chisels had been correctly hardened. Dents could be from mis-hits or even ongoing use. A blacksmith can make use of all parts of an anvil, not just the hardened top face. Some of those lovely curved surfaces make for nice swages for beating out curves as well.
  9. Remarkable transformation. Hardly looks like the same guy:
  10. Not familiar with that particular comedian, but the photo has a real "Mr Bean" vibe. Kind of freaks me out, but I didn't want to say anything in case it was an actual personal photo. Thanks for clarifying your intentions. I'm all in favor of gearing up well (kind of a tool junkie myself), but do want to caution you that time spent at an anvil is far more valuable than time spent searching for the best one. Post here all you like, if I don't feel like answering I won't. I'm sure there are plenty of others who can help as well.
  11. Most CEO's would certainly be in a different economic situation, that's for sure.
  12. Honestly, you need to find someone more versed in anvil evaluation than I am. I'm not even sure what you are after with this effort. You stated earlier that you already purchased an anvil for your own use. If you are just starting out as a smith, you don't really need another. If you are planning on being a collector, they look at different considerations than I do, which is primarily functionality for the anticipated tasks. If you are investing in "anvil futures", you need to establish what your market will be. If that is what you are doing asking me if an anvil is "worth it", I have three things to say: First, I have noticed that recently used anvil prices have started to go down in my area - so be prepared for the current bubble to potentially burst. Second, you need to factor in a method for inexpensive shipping of your anvils to the final customer. Third, if you are just planning on flipping anvils for profit, please don't expect free evaluations from me (there are a couple of Facebook sites you might prefer). Also, your profile photo of Luiz Fachin?
  13. Wilkinson anvils are pretty well thought of, but top plate on this one looks suspect. Cutting shelf is too short for typical London Pattern. I'd take a hard pass on that one. Hopefully someone with better anvil evaluation skills can help you. I'm not a collector, just a user.
  14. Most likely due to language used in their videos. Rules of the road here are no cursing, but you are certainly free to look them up yourself on YouTube.
  15. I'm not an anvil expert by any means. Reading the side it appears to have 0.3.10 in the English hundredweight system which would be around 94 lbs or 43 kg Link removed A double horn anvil is nice for architectural work as well as general forging. This one is a little small, at least compared to the large shop anvils you were looking at, but depending on what you plan on doing with it, certainly usable. Edges are reasonable and horn damage wouldn't deter me. At $220 it would sell here quickly, but I don't know what prices are by you. Can't remember what this particular anvil pattern is called (Yorkshire perhaps), but it is subtly different from the German and Austrian double horn patterns having a dropped flat horn.
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