Latticino

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About Latticino

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. Television giving people wrong ideas

    Not sure why they just don't by some SLO from one of the numerous online sources. If it only needs to be a wall hanger, something from a discounter like Kult of Athena would be greatly less expensive than even one week of lessons. However, it is great that this mother wants to give her son the blacksmith experience. Perhaps it would be worthwhile just offering them a beginning smith intro class and try to see if he can make decent tapers. After all, that is the foundation of sword smithing... Who knows, maybe he will be a natural and you can hand him a 1" train coil spring and tell him to go to town. After 3 hours of hammering to uncoil it and get the first inch or so tapered, he may have a better understanding of what he has taken on.
  2. Television giving people wrong ideas

    I completely agree that FIF has given folks a very skewed understanding of bladesmithing. Five days of grueling labor by an experienced smith, where they often fail in their plan, certainly does not equal a rank beginner accomplishing the same in a couple of months of part time effort. Perhaps a suggestion that he make one from wood and paint it would make some sense. With the lack of practical skills that are being accepted from most high schools these days I'd be astonished if he even knew how to work a table saw and belt sander. Did she even give you an idea why he needed to make a sword for English class (theater prop, forging experience to write about...)? The answer to that might lead to a more practical suggestion.
  3. 3" flip top custom cane head

    Wood is a good choice, but if you are going to the trouble to carve something, why not just use jewelers wax? Easier to carve, and when you are done you can caste direct from that.
  4. 3" flip top custom cane head

    I'm the last one to comment on a screen name, so I'll just accept the statement that your name actually that of the biblical angle of death... This is more a blacksmithing site than one that does a lot of casting, which is more likely what you will need to do to make your "custom" cane top. This sounds like work for a jeweler to me, with the cane top either fabricated from sheet brass, or cast in aluminum or bronze. As a lighter cap it should not be exposed to significant heat, so any metal should work. You haven't included a copy of your sketch for some reason, so it is hard to respond further. I think you are going to have some serious trouble with the 3" cap flipping mechanism though. You will need both a latch and a hinge to work out, which won't be an insignificant design challenge. If you plan on getting this made by a jeweler I hope you have deep pockets. Depending on design I would expect a custom order to run far in excess of $500. If you want to be a little flexible, you might consider looking into existing metal can tops and modifying one yourself. Something like this, below, is available for under $20 from the woodcraft shop and with some careful drilling and hinge/latch design might work just fine for you: I'm sure there are plenty of other options of pre-made tops as well. Good luck.
  5. looking for advice on price

    Well, guess it is all in the condition and demand. I've seen post drills, like the one in the first picture, go for anywhere from $45-$125 depending on whether it is in fully restored working condition. Probably not easy to use as a powered drill press, as gearing down to mimic lineshaft rpm can be a challenge for an electric motor. The large wheel grinder is fairly uncommon, but IMHO not worth a whole lot. Unless you have a specific use for it I wouldn't go more than $30 for that. The blower, as no-town indicates, might be worth something, but only if it runs smoothly. I've seen working ones go for anything from $50-$175. A power hammer can also be a big question mark. For the most part it depends on condition, though ram weight can also play a factor. Completely restored, working power hammers typically sell for over $2,500, but ones in need of repair can be considerably cheaper (even scrap steel price...). Of course if she is expecting antique collector prices all bets are off...
  6. Cable Damascus Bowie, With a Hammon?

    Very nice. This level of quality of forging and construction on a cable blade is one of the reasons that I've been attracted to knifemaking in the first place. I really like the overall profile, crisp bevels, the guard and custom pin. Not sure the hamon enhances the blade in this case, but it might be better in person. Actually you might consider getting this one professionally photographed. Not to disparage your current recording efforts, but a pro will nail the lighting better and bring out the best in the piece.
  7. Hello from Washington State

    Not completely sure regarding your reference to an allusion there, but I assume you must be talking about Hari (Raven) Seldon, one of the key protagonists in the series. Apparently the fictional "Psychohistory" that Seldon develops in the series has become the inspiration for some of today's statistical economic theory as well as "Big Data" analysis in the same way that countless other SF novels have inspired modern science.
  8. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    Quick hint: I've made very effective hole cutters for ceramic blanket by just sharpening the end of a piece of pipe or tubing with a belt sander then cutting a couple of notches in that sharpened edge. The stuff cuts very easily just rotating this by hand provided it is done before the rigidizer is cured. If you use a pipe one size smaller than your burner flare you can protect the end of the flare with the small ring of blanket that will be left covering front of the flare. That can be slightly compressed to the correct diameter and should also be rigidized and sealed with refractory.
  9. Propane Regulator

    You only need an adjustable regulator on your propane forge if you want to operate it in a safe and repeatable manner. Personally I would never work without one, but I have an aversion to uncontrolled gas fired systems. You can google them and find one to your liking pretty easily. Ideally you should get one with a gauge, but you don't need such. Either 0-30 psi or 0-60 psi range will be fine.
  10. First blacksmithig project ever

    Kevin Cashen is the man as far as heat treating blades is concerned. He has a great outline on heat treatment on his site, and specific info on heat treatment of 1095 here: http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1095.html. Most reasonable hardwoods will work for handles (avoid ebony though). For a low cost alternative you can always get scrap from a heavy pallet (often oak) or cutoffs from a wooden flooring contractor. Personally I've become kind of attracted to using cherry. It not the most figured of woods, but it is a nice natural color and complements brass fittings well. There is also a lot of info on knifemaking in this forum. I strongly suggest you read through the stickies. Looks like you have gotten off to a good start with your first two, but I suggest you do a little more reading on optimal knife crossections, profiles, materials of construction and heat treatment.
  11. Forging Press Design

    Well that certainly looks more robust. If you know a structural engineer you might consider asking them to do some calculations for you as regards the different elements. My instinct is that with the new triangular gussets you may not need the vertical tubular steel sections and the end plates, but that is likely going to be a function of the overall load profile as well as the quality of construction and material selection. I don't see how they would hurt, other than adding unnecessary weight and welding.
  12. Side Horned Anvil

    OK, I'll buzz in: "What if MC Escher designed anvils..?"
  13. Forging Press Design

    I have not designed, or even much used, a hydraulic forge and probably should leave significant comments to others with more experience. That being said, I'm a bit confused about the all-thread you are using top and bottom to hold the upright I-beams in place. If that is the only thing keeping the end caps (top and bottom) in place, then I would be worried about the ram force shearing the all thread and popping the top off under load. If you are planning on welding the top and bottom I-beam sections, then why do you need the all-thread?
  14. Dwarven hunting knife

    Absolutely lovely work, as expected from two such talented folks. Just one question on the sheath: the split ring location appears to make it hang upside down from the photo orientation. Was that the intent, or am I missing something?
  15. Knife #3 - Santoku

    Great job for a third knife. I'm sure your mom will love it. Kitchen knives are pretty interesting to forge. In my opinion a spine thickness of a maximum of 1/8" is ideal for most types used primarily for slicing; with a full grind down to almost razor thickness at the edge, and virtually no secondary bevel. To me, while forging, they feel kind of like working a potato chip, and needless to say you need to keep scale and hammer marks down to a minimum if you want to forge relatively close to final dimensions (including an allowance for decarb). Grinding can also be a challenge, especially the final grind after heat treatment. Nick Rossi makes lovely kitchen knives and has graciously shared much of his process on You-Tube. I strongly recommend that you check his channel out for some great tips on forging kitchen knives.