Latticino

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About Latticino

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    Love this idea, but have serious concerns regarding the refractory drying, shrinking and cracking before it can be slowly fired up to harden. Suggest you consider casting the refractory into a threaded flange with welded on mesh frame (see Giberson burner for example: http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/burnr1.html)
  2. Why is my leaf spring steel cracking?

    As Thomas and the others have said, you don't fix it (kind of a paradox, there is a way to "fix" it, but if you knew enough to be able to forge weld layers of steel, you wouldn't have to ask the question). When/if you move on to your next high carbon steel forging project, try not to forge the steel after it cools down from the cherry red stage and work on eliminating cold shunts as well.
  3. New to Everything

    Hey, welcome to the site. Hope that you can fulfill your dream of metalworking someday. You might want to look into working in non-ferrous metals at first as an inexpensive way of easing into metalworking, as you seem open to a variety of different types. What I would most strongly suggest is taking a class at a craft school of some sort. There are far too many to list, but you might start looking at either Penland or the John Campbell Folk school, both of which are not too far away from you (and there certainly may be something closer). Some hands on experience with the tools and techniques will help decide on direction and influence your eventual choice.
  4. Air-Assisted Hydraulic Bottle Jack Press

    Agreed it can work, just no where near as well as a real hydraulic press. Not sure it is that much faster than a hammer though if it takes you a full hour to turn a 3/4" coil into 3/8" flat stock (depending on length of course).
  5. Air-Assisted Hydraulic Bottle Jack Press

    I know folks have experimented with that in the past, and hopefully someone with hands-on experience will chime in. I've done some research on it and I believe the consensus is that the major drawback for the air over hydraulic presses is actuation speed. Better than nothing, but hardly the equal of a true hydraulic forging press.
  6. Cost of Wrought Iron

    Last time I purchased wrought at SOFA I believe it was going for somewhere between $1.50 and $2/lb. Depending on the size I might be interested in a stick or two if you will be selling.
  7. Can You Please Evaluate My Tong Design

    No worries, from your original post it sounded like you needed immediate assistance, so I tried to respond promptly. I should have been more patient, but was having a tough day. Yes, this can be a pretty active board. As regards clamping effectiveness, I think you have it backwards. An examination of the simple lever principal will tell you that the further away from the axis the clamp is placed the more force it will exert on the short end of the arm. That, of course, is predicated on having the clamp on the "cold side" of the tongs, as I have recommended. Also note that having it in that position will help counterbalance the stock, making it easier to manipulate (like a sword pommel). Unfortunately this does not take into account the problem of keeping the tongs attached to the stock when it is heating. My experience is if you do this you will overheat the tongs, eventually loosening and distorting them as you work on your stock. With more time forging you will find that you typically need to quench the bits on your tongs periodically to prevent this (which would be a problem if they are locked down to the stock). Good luck with your project.
  8. Can You Please Evaluate My Tong Design

    Why is that? OP asked for an evaluation of a concept and got honest feedback. If you can't tolerate constructive criticism then don't ask for it.
  9. Hello from New Jersey

    OK, <grin>, welcome aboard. Your post may have just gotten buried too quickly for anyone to take notice of immediately. From reading same it seems like you are well on your way. Obvious recommendations follow: Use good PPE Make sure you have correct ventilation in your garage including a good exhaust hood and code approved exit stack Try to meet up with some local smiths for direct instruction/training. This works much better than YouTube, where much of the posts are questionable. Read, Research, Experiment, be Safe and have Fun. Post pictures with your requests for forge design improvement and we will be more easily able to assist.
  10. Can You Please Evaluate My Tong Design

    @Robin447: Perhaps I'm feeling particularly needy today, but it would be nice if after folks take the time to review, analyze and respond to your inquiries that you at least acknowledge their feedback. Are you suggesting that 26 hours is too long to wait a reply ?
  11. What Did You Learn Today?

    Can't be sure without seeing it, but my guess is that the slumping glass was hotter on the outside surface than the inner surface. Slumping on the outer skin and a combination of folding and bending on the inner. Just like a bend of any material, the inner curve is tighter and that extra crossection needs somewhere to go. If your mold is extremely smooth you might be able to solve by keeping at the slumping temp longer. However then you run the risk of devit, or cracking on differential cooling . Tough call. What little slumping I did was into molds, not over.
  12. Can You Please Evaluate My Tong Design

    The reason that a typical tong clamp/ring is at the end of the handle, in my estimation, is functionality. If at the front (where you have put it) it will get hot while heating the stock, be difficult to operate, potentially distort the threading mechanism (which is complicated, offset which will torque the rivet joint, and prone to failure), and adds weight to the tong where you don't want it. The hardy insert is problematic as it will only work with a limited type of stock configuration. It is an interesting idea, but have you done much forging yourself? I think more practical experience would help influence your design in a more positive direction. I could see a detachable hardy based 3 axis clamp being quite helpful, if you can figure a way to make it quickly and easily operable and integrate it into your tong design. The concept certainly has potential, but I think you need more development and testing before evaluation. As regards price of the current design, I would not be interested, so expect any price would be too high. Sounds like a classroom assignment, not an actual product though, so I would estimate that if it could be produced as a well functioning tool a price in the $100 range wouldn't be too far out of line.
  13. Bathroom fan blower

    300 CFM is better than nothing, but not a tremendous amount of ventilation in the big picture. One other thing to consider is that the typical bathroom exhaust fan has a plastic impeller. depending on how close you are to the heat source, this may not be a great option. The other is that if you expect air to be exhausted, you will need to makeup that air from somewhere (window, adjacent room, open door...) I am a fan (no pun intended) of sidewall exhaust fans for this type of heat/ventilation exhaust. Placed at the peak of your forge shop they can move a relatively huge amount of air at rather low energy cost. I use one like the picture below in my shop with the belt driven motor outside the air path. Works quite well.
  14. Bathroom fan blower

    Suggest anyone contemplating running the products of a solid fuel forge up thru a dedicated metal chimney carefully check the local codes regarding materials of construction, structure penetrations and location of termination of that vent. I'm fairly certain that most require specific distances from combustible construction at the penetration as well as outlets that are 3' above the highest point of the structure penetrated. While exiting through a gable vent may work, if your installation is not code compliant you likely void your homeowner's insurance policy. By all means, ensure the stack is fully ducted to the building exterior, not just dumped into a ventilated attic. That is a recipe for disaster.
  15. What Did You Learn Today?

    Actually I'm a mechanical engineer, not a material scientist. Know a little about glass though. The phenomena you are describing is a combination of two potential effects of heating glass, depending on the temperature reached. If by heating you mean bringing the glass to liquifing temperatures, then each time you do you burn off flux and degrade the glass quality. Eventually the so called "chords" form in the material thick enough to make observable surface defects. On the other hand, if you mean bringing the glass to fusing temperature, (which I believe is more likely ) then the effect you are describing is likely devitrification. This latter is the result of keeping the glass at a fusing temperature too long. It appears as a sort of surface hazing. Ideally you need to either keep your glass as a liquid (for a limited time ) or down below fusing at the annealing temperature. A parallel type of function in high carbon steel for the first would be overly long heating it and burning the steel. For the latter I guess surface decarb...?