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I Forge Iron


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About Latticino

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Upstate NY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, glassblowing, restoring and playing antique flutes. HLG and boomerangs, recumbent bicycles, sea kayaking, white water canoeing, reading SF/Fantasy

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  1. I've not done a double bit axe yet. Your's looks great, now that I'm getting into throwing hawks and other blades. I'll have to add something onto to the queue (and of course I'll need a new drift and side grip hoop tongs as well). Did you just punch and drift yours, or wrap and weld? If the latter, can you share what stock you used and some idea of the preform? Today's forging was finishing up the pipe tomahawk (integral forged bowl from 1" square mild steel stock with forge welded bit) and a first stab at a rail spike knife with welded HC blade. Botched the handle size on latter, but the next one will be much better. I'll have to grab some photos tomorrow.
  2. While I was forging my last hawk I dropped some stock on the ground behind a piece of equipment. Bent down to pick it up and forgot that I still had my hoop tongs in my left hand. Black, but still awful hot, and now I have a pair of parallel V shaped burns on my right forearm to testify to same... Looks like I've been branded. Best cut and auto cauterize I got is on the joint of my right thumb. Got sliced by a piece of hot glass while I was teaching a very young student to remove the punty connection from the bottom of her first blown piece. As usual for beginners she had bonded it far too firmly. I asked her to stop trying to remove it while I chilled the joint, and she just had to hit it one more time. Of course then it decided to pop off and sliced my thumb almost down to the bone. Because it cauterized as well it healed strangely, so I still have a scar some 35 years later.
  3. Thanks for the kind words from everyone. I agree a maul is a superior choice for splitting, but haven't made one yet. I do have a froe that just needs a handle. I'll have to try that next. I have a small fireplace in my home office/sanctum, so processing small logs is in my future. The current axe works well for that also. Here is the latest hawk with an "antiqued" hickory haft. I like the look, but my wife says it is "interesting" (code that she is not impressed). Today I've been struggling with a pipe hawk with integral forged bowl. All from a 4.5" stick of 1 x1" with forge welded bit. Hope to finish forging tomorrow.
  4. Very nice job. I like that you drifted out the existing holes to accommodate a tapered hawk handle.
  5. My take, in reverse: Last photo appears to be of a pair of soldering irons, one missing a handle. One before it is a set of long nose, flat tip pliers with some minor customization to the handle. Might have been for something special, but probably specific to the user. Pretty sure the one above that is used for either cinching or pulling out using the leverage of the pliers handle against the "hammer head". No idea about the two chisels that appear to be modified into bottle openers. The Tee handle is probably for a chuck of some sort (maybe a lathe chuck?). Set of (4) stone/concrete tools above that (three star drills and a chisel). Above that we have a wood chisel, center punch, cape chisel, and impact gun chisel (possibly). Last (first) is a end cutting pliers with a nail puller on one handle and some kind of scribe or manual hole reamer on the other.
  6. I made a quick bearded hawk today as a demo to teach one of my son's friends to forge a hawk. He did great on his (don't have a photo of that), but he stuck both the forge welds on the first try (wrap and weld eye with a 1084 HC bit) as a complete beginner to forging. Only thing I did for him was to preforge the HC bits for both of us. Of course he was a former glassblower, so familiar with working with heated stuff you can't touch, and that helps. Both got fully heat treated and his is mounted on a handle as well.
  7. Actually the whole boundary layer turbulence thing is directly applicable to burners as well. As regards flow in a pipe, a limited amount of turbulence is a good thing for reducing pipe friction. Friction in laminar flow is actually higher than when you cross over the boundary to turbulent flow. I can dig out the equations if anyone is really interested...
  8. Not sure if this will help, as it is likely for naturally aspirated burners but here are some charts for propane orifices: Information generated using the “ WARD BURNER SYSTEMS CHART ” THE KILN BOOK, 3RD EDITION, F. OLSEN PRESSURE IN PSI → 5 10 15 20 25 ORIFICE (DRILL) SIZE ↓ BTUs / hour 73 14272 20184 24720 28544 31913 72 15503 21925 26853 31007 34667 71 16766 23711 29040 33533 37491 70 19450 27507 33689 38901 43492 69 21155 29918 36642 42311 47305 68 23839 33714 41291 47678 53306 65 30375 42957 52612 60750 67921 63 33943 48003 58792 67886 75900 62 35806 50638 62018 71612 80065 61 37732 53361 65354 75464 84372 60 39689 56130 68745 79380 88750 59 41679 58943 72191 83358 93198 58 43731 61846 75745 87463 97787 57 45847 64837 79410 91694 102517 56 53614 75822 92863 107229 119886 Information generated using the PYRONICS SYSTEM, PYRONICS INDUSTRIAL COMBUSTION SEMINAR HANDBOOK PRESSURE IN PSI → 6 10 14 20 25 ORIFICE (DRILL) SIZE ↓ BTUs / hour 73 16750 21713 25590 30708 34120 72 18146 23574 27761 33345 37222 71 21713 27916 33035 39548 44201 70 23109 29778 35051 42185 46993 69 24970 32259 38153 45752 51180 68 27916 36136 42650 51180 57074 65 35981 45752 54282 65138 71342 63 39703 51180 60486 72893 80648 62 41875 54282 63588 77546 85300 61 43736 57384 68240 80648 89953 60 47768 60486 71342 85300 96157 59 49629 63588 74444 89953 100810 58 51956 66689 79097 94606 105462 57 53662 69791 83749 100810 113217 56 58159 75995 89953 108564 119421 In my experience orifice size is less critical for blown (gun) burners. Just use a pipe connection around 1/8" diameter and a GOOD ADJUSTABLE GAS REGULATOR, and you should be fine. Since the NG orifice is typically larger than the propane one I would expect you don't need to change it provided you have a regulator.
  9. Nothing ugly about those top tools. Look quite functional. You stole that post drill. It even came with a chuck (though the auto-advance doesn't look complete). Not going to share what I paid for mine, but it was a different order of magnitude...
  10. A substantial scroll wrench may also be helpful (this is an Aspery style one, but you can make them using a welder or purchase):
  11. Yes, I know. Was just trying to suggest a small modification to that technique that works for me.
  12. Well if price is the issue, you can just go with what I have used for years: Bic lighter and a rolled "spliff" of newsprint. This works best for me as my gas valve is a good 6' away from my forge. I just turn on the blower at about 1/2 output, light the paper and place in forge, then open the gas valve.
  13. For blown burners the sparker is usually located in the mixing tube, upstream of the flare. This allows the relatively cold air/gas mixture to keep it from burning out. With a multi-port outlet type system you may have a problem with this, as it will ignite the mixture upstream of the restrictive outlets and could lead to damage. Please be extremely careful if you decide to go forward with this plan. If you can do it with a torch and just don't like lighting the torch, why not use one of these:
  14. They call that kind of fit an archival or museum fit. It is a feature, not a defect. It allows the wood to shrink slightly over time without having the metal protrude. All it needs it the very slightest radius on the front edge of the protruding wood to be perfect. You can do that with a jeweler's file with one edge sanded flat. I like what you have done with the blade and handle here. The only thing I would question is the location of the copper divider on the handle. From an aesthetic perspective it seems a bit too centered to me. Of course aesthetics are wholly subjective... Hope I get to see you sometime at at NYSDB meeting, once things open back up here. Going to have to try the lade in the cargo pants thing myself and see if it is comfortable. They are a standard for me over the summer. Thanks for the tip.
  15. It's on the docket, so to speak. I've got that one and four others (one dog's head, one Swedish crosspeen, a German Crosspeen, and a Thomas Latine inspired crosspeen) to finish up and heat treat. Starting to pile up, but I've been working on axes, knives and hawks lately. Having a little trouble chasing the hammers effectively to get the carving depth I want. The hot work I originally did went well, but the detailed cold chasing is playing hob with my tools. I'll have to forge some new ones, and fortunately have a nice donation of cutup sucker rod to work with for the purpose.
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