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Found 33 results

  1. This is my anvil and base. The base is a big ol’ pine log. Pine was not my first choice (or 2nd or 3rd) but when you live in an area with no trees, you take what you can get. As expected, the log is splitting. I’m wondering if it would be worth it to try to forge some straps to go around the log to keep it together. How would you go about forging such a thing? I was thinking I’d put a 90° bend about an inch from each end of a long piece of 1” wide weld steel, drill holes in the 1” tabs, bang the weld steel to shape right on the log, then tighten it down with a bolt through the holes.
  2. This was cleaned up REALLY well, placed in the forge and heated to a dark red, fluxed (Borax), heated more, fluxed again, then left to heat until it looked (to me) like a bright yellow. Then I banged on it enough to make sure both sides were making good contact. I let it cool to black, then I put it in some water (so I could touch it), ground the edges to see how it looked, and then tested it by banging a screwdriver into the V to see how quick it would split. I’ve had a pistachio give me more trouble coming apart than this.
  3. I'm making plans to pull the old lining out of my forge and re-line it. The attached diagram is the basic layout. I'll do 2" of ceramic fiber and then I figured I'd coat the inside with about 1/4" of Satanite or something similar. The big question I have is about the floor. Right now, there are a couple of fire bricks sitting in there. This works well as it brings the floor up to almost level with the openings in the front and back of the forge. But, when I do anything with flux, it runs off of or between the bricks and gets into my forge lining. So here are my ideas: 1- Make a floor out of a castable. Unfortunately, this will not be easily replaceable AND with it being about 2" thick there are issues with it sucking heat. 2- Just use bricks (like I have been doing) but use a castable/refractory that will resist flux for the 1/4" coating. 3- Use bricks and a flux-resistant coating AND put a layer of kitty litter or sand or something in the bottom to "soak up" flux and then sweep that out occasionally. I'm particularly curious about # 3. I keep hearing about people with vertical forges having "kitty litter" in the bottom. Why wouldn't this work in a horizontal forge? I would think it would also help to keep my fire bricks level and in place (not that they move much now). Please share your thoughts or advice. Thanks!
  4. Howdy! I'm new to the sport, and my dad just revealed he had this awesome Trenton 135lb farriers anvil. It had been sitting out open to the weather (but not in the weather) for probably the last 15 years- covered in a layer of greenish moss and rust. We immediately got it indoors, and I took a wire brush to the moss/rust coat. Took steel wool to the face. I'm trying to figure out how to remove all the rust, so I can get it properly dry and coated in oil/wax and keep it from rusting further. Long term, I will need to store this in my dad's barn, which isn't completely enclosed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I believe this anvil was made in 1911, and has been passed down. I really don't want to ruin it!
  5. I'm a young kid (15) looking to get into blacksmithing. The issue is that I lack the instruction to do so, as well as a forge. I'm wondering if there is anyone in South West Washington or the greater Pacific Northwest that would be willing to help me out. I have most of the materials to fabricate a forge using a 20 lb propane bottle following Wayne Coe's instructions (excluding the burner (requires welding) and burner parts), however, I'm severely limited by my tools, lacking both a welder, and a plasma cutter as well as a shop of any sort. If there is any way in which someone would be willing to lend me a hand and help me fabricate a forge (I will of course pay for materials costs as well as time) that would be greatly appreciated. General advice or apprenticing of any shape is of course more than welcome. I'm happy to pay in cash or barter (my families owns a creamery) for any services that could be provided, whichever is preferable. My apologies if this is in the wrong directory I'm still very new to the forum. Thanks, -Will
  6. I am looking to cut my teeth on making some household tools, starting with a simple flathead screwdriver. I was considering getting some tool steel rods as the material (O1 or S7), but I was just wondering if it's strictly necessary and worth it to use fancy steels. Would mild (1018) work for a screwdriver head just as well? I have gone and searched for information on what material is used in professional (ie, craftsman, ect) and searched the forum to no avail. Just looking for opinions/advice. Thanks for looking! Carpe Frigus Finem!
  7. What tips/tricks/advice have you learned as a blacksmith and made your own? (anything from "I drizzle Yankee Candle wax over my coke so my forge smells good" to "Coors light is the best quenching medium")
  8. Howdy! I'll attach a couple photos of an anvil my grandpa recovered from an abandoned farm. It's a smaller, 25lb (though she comes out to 22 and a half) anvil, very well used. The top is in pretty decent condition, actually. Not many divets or dents. One of the edges is in terrible shape, very big chunks taken out from it, and one side has what looks like fairly deep pock marks in the main body. The horn is in great shape, as are the hardy and pritchell holes. And, if anyone knows what kind of anvil this is, certainly wouldn't hate to have it identified! Much thanks in advance, and I'm pretty proud of her even if she is a bit beat up, as she's my first proper anvil. I'll include a picture of what I "worked" on before, just for giggles.
  9. Hi All! Wanting to buy an anvil, and found on on our local dutch craigslist alternative. Anvil weight: 130 kilogram (286 pounds) Anvil weight including mount 250 kilogram (551 lbs) Height of anvil 33cm (13 inch) Length of anvil 76cm ( 29 inch ) Width of face 14cm (5.5 inch) Link removed What do you guys think this is worth? what would you pay for it?
  10. I am new to black smithing and just purchased my first anvil. It is a Peter Wright 101 that needs some work. I have cleaned it with a wire brush and there are some large chips along the face edges. I am not sure how to repair this and am looking for some advice. Thanks!
  11. I'm a beggining 14 year old smith and I have finally acquired the last piece needed to complete my forge. My mother and I took a long trip to multiple flea markets and antique stores looking for an anvil. We found multiple but many were outrageously high. We found one 200+ pound anvil but it was 500 and I simply didn't have the funds. Near it was a 50-60 pound small anvil for 200. Eventually after viewing another small one of similar price we found a slightly damaged 100 pound Vulcan anvil for just over 200$. The very end of the horn was broken off and the edges were slightly chipped but the face was smooth. Was I right to purchase this one? It also had a five on the heel of the anvil and I am curious as to what this is for. P.S. I know about the thin faceplate being brittle.
  12. Ok, I'm just now starting out with blacksmithing but I've been trying to learn and study for a couple of years now. I want to build my own forge, but I have limited funds. I already have a soupcan forge but it isn't putting out the kind of heat and isn't big enough for the knives I'm working on. My question is, what kind of material would be best for me to make my forge out of? I already have a plan but I just don't have the know-how to know what kind of metal or material to make my furnace chamber out of. (Picture is of the first knife I made.)
  13. Hello all, new to this forum and I was hoping I could get some advice. I am really interested in Smithing and I would like to pick up this hobby, and I have some questions. I am going to start building my forge. I was thinking about welding two 20 pound propane tanks together. I plan on making knives and small swords/machetes and the likes. I plan on lining it with 2 inches of kaowool with firebrick on the bottom and adding a door and all that. It is going to be a propane forge. My first question is will this forge need 2 burners? Or just one? I know there are different kinds of burners. Am I going overkill on size? Should I just use one 20 pound tank? What size anvil should I be looking for? And I am aware that a belt grinder is the best tool for grinding the blades, but I'm trying to save money because I'm buying a pistol soon. Would a bench grinder suffice if I use a softer stone? Sorry for all of the questions I just want to do things right.
  14. Awhile back I thought I'd start hammering. Now that was more years ago than I'd care to divulge, but over the years I've acquired some knowledge about hammering metal. And I've learned a few things about places where experts hold forth. I've learned that the quickest to comment with an opinion often writes so much that there is obviously very little time spent at the anvil. Unless you call a keyboard your anvil. I have learned that engineering facts about heat transfer, thermodynamics, and material dynamics are areas of knowledge generally misunderstood by those who hold forth as experts on those subjects in these threads. I've learned to hold my counsel as I have been vigorously told that the facts I learned acquiring my degrees in engineering and years of work in the steel industry were wrong and misguided and foolhardy. And after all that I was graciously told it would never work the way I thought it would...by experts who don't understand that, although they claim to have experience, that doesn't mean that experience has done them any good. Sitting in front of a keyboard spewing misinformation with an authority based on little besides self aggrandizement is apparently what is now considered "expert" . I have stopped listening to "experts". Except, of course, when I feel like a laugh and want to read something truly ridiculous. "Inelastic rebound" indeed ha ha ha ha ha.
  15. Hey guys, I'm pretty new here, but I have been fiddling with metal for a few years now. Anyways, I'm looking into making a graphite electrode arc furnace, using a 115/230V 160amp stick welder as a power supply (65% duty cycle). I primarily want to use it to melt metals like copper and bronze (steel being a stretch goal with more experience) for casting. And I'd like to hear advice for this little project before I really get started; safety, things to look out for, etc. Suggestions on reading material would also be greatly appreciated. Currently my prospective setup is like this: Outside (fume ventilation is not something I want to deal with as much) 230V dryer plug for power (to allow most efficient use of my welder) PPE: leather apron polycarbonate safety glasses face shield (or welding mask/ #5 goggles, depending on how bright things get) respirator (using NIOSH P100 filters) welding gloves I'm probably going to buy some soft refactory brick for the inner chamber, with a welded steel frame to hold it together sand casting Bronze and copper at first, with experience and a lot more knowledge, I might try steel at some point. I don't have much interest in brass, especially with the hazards of zinc I mostly want to do cast works, things like reproduction bronze age swords and art pieces. I have no intent to try to use this as a forge. I have a bit of experience with coal/charcoal forges and I've done a bit of small casting with that, but it's not very efficient, so I want to make an upgrade (and give myself a good project for winter break) I don't know how much of you guys have dabbled with arc furnaces, but I figured it was worth a shot.
  16. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could make something that would be half as good that would offset the price to buy and ship online. Forge I'm building is just a small portable propane forge, lined with 2" of Kaowool. Also , talked to someone at this pottery place few times and they didn't even know what ITC 100 was ... Haha Thanks!
  17. Hello, I am brand new to smithing and I am excited to start the craft. I have a makeshift forge and i am in the process of building a anvil stand. (Pics of the forge below) I am looking for any tips/tricks that you guys/girls would be wiling to provide. I will post update pictures as I progress.
  18. Hello everyone, I hope this is not a "throwing myself to the wolves" kind of thing, but even if it is, I'm used to learning the hard way. Anyway I'll get straight to the point, all I have ever wanted is to have my own woodshop. Now don't get me wrong, I love and admire the blacksmith, the trade as well as the man, however, wood grows on trees, and metal lives in the earth. I do have one problem though, and it's got a lot to do with liking to make things. I've tried 'smithing, it is just a little too expensive and I have had trouble securing a decent anvil, and a forge, which is pretty much the whole thing in a nutshell. But before I go dig a hole in my backyard and fill it up with coal and rig up a shop - vacuum and drive the neighbors crazy, I wanted to ask if anyone would please share any experience they had making wood chisels. I know they can't be the most difficult item to forge, I just have found about zero videos of people doing it. I'm talking no bigger than 1"x6-8" most smaller than that. If I knew a smithy I would just ask him to show me or let me work in his shop. I'm just tired of buying cheap Chinese crap worthless chisels. I want my own, and I'll forge em if I have to. Any information you have on this subject would be gratefully appreciated. Ornate whittling is something my grandfather taught me but woodcarving is my next step and I've gone through some chisels in the process. That is all. JTD
  19. Hello all, I've browsed through the the stickies and its information and found some insightful work! Everyone on here is so nice and I'm eager to pursue this hobby. I wish to create armor and weapons for me and my friends for their SCA battles (likely not using said weapons). I have experience in welding, receiving a certificate in gas metal arc welding. I'm following up on some leads to get an anvil for free or cheap. And I have a barn of tools, I also have a large deep tractor rim that I can use as the forge. Any recommendations for a novice at black smithing? I am eager to hear advice
  20. Help! I don't have a vice. I am looking for a stump vise (don't want to buy one off eBay) but in the mean time, I have this railspike knife I'm making. So far it's coming out great but I want to add details to the doghead I'm putting on the handle. Any ideas on how I can do this without a vice (or a welder if that matters any)? I have one of those small 55lb blue anvils from harbor freight. I was thinking that somehow the hardy hole might be able to help. But I'm afraid the edge of the hole will put creases in the metal.
  21. Hello my name is Ethan and I am a 13 year old blacksmith with ambitious plans! I mostly do traditional blacksmithing and I really enjoy working with a striker. I received a 3 1/2lbs rounding hammer from Alec Steele and am enjoying it beyond description. I am slowly making the tools to make a hammer following the Brian Brazeal's tools to make tools curriculum. Eventually I would like to make a striking anvil and if anyone is open with advice on striking anvils or making rounding hammers please let me know. Ethan
  22. I am planning on making a flatter this weekend. I have made a few hammers so this seems to be next in the progression. I have a piece of heavy equipment driveline, about 2.25 inches in diameter and solid. I think it is from a PTO drive. I don't believe the driveline is high carbon steel but it should be pretty tough stuff. Other than coaxing a couple of friends to act as strikers, does anyone have specific suggestions. I plan to use a short piece about 3-4 inches long (so its long enough to hang onto) then forge a square taper at one end so it will fit into the square hole in a swage block. I plan to then drive the metal into the swage block so that I end up with a piece about 1.25 inches square that I can later drift a hole into for a handle. I hope to end up with a square end (by making corrections to square as I go) opposite the tapered end suitable for a flatter, maybe 2.5-2.75 inches square and about .5 inch thick. Once I get the proper shape and dimension I can cut off any excess from the tapered end (and use it for another tool later). I can treat the flatter end with Casenite if necessary but I don't know if I need to. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
  23. Hi All, I'm setting up a coke forge in a derelict outbuilding at home near Bath... I would really like to get it right as it's costing me a small fortune in building work, electricals, etc.! Just asking for a bit of advice if possible as I've only ever worked in one other forge. So - I'm wondering if there are any friendly folk out there in the South West that wouldn't mind showing me their place and / or spending 15 minutes with me? It would be great to meet some fellow smiths too anyway. I've got very little experience, but I love working with metal and so I'm just going for it. I've got quite a small area allocated and the ceiling is only 7" but I do have the luxury of an upper storey that I could knock up into which I'm thinking I might well have to... Sorry - bit of an open question - I'll be doing some layout sketches tomorrow which will probably help. Thanks in advance! Debbie
  24. I am wanting to take up blacksmithing and I don't have alot of money but I am looking for a cheap anvil are there any cheap anvils out there. I was looking at a Grizzly 55 lb iron anvil. I was wondering if there are any cheap kinds out there that I could buy or if there are any specs and materials they should be made of.
  25. Background I've built a break drum forge in my back yard. Currently I'm using metallurgical grade coal I get from a local supplier, I enjoy using coal a lot, but winter is coming, and I can't use it close to the house (girlfriend hates the smell/dust/smoke, sure the neighbors don't appreciate either). I have 2 old standard sized LP tanks, and I wish to make a forge out of one. I've already taken the proper precautions to make the tanks safe to work with. My Questions: I want to use a combination of insulating wool blanket and refractory cement, preferably a castable. How thick should the blanket layer be? How thick should the refractory layer be? Can I even use a castable for this, or do I need to use something that packs? My plan is to modify