Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'hand'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 22 results

  1. McGee Ranch Blacksmithing

    57 hours

    Hand forged leafspring with custom finger guard, mosaic handle pins, redwood burl, custom graphic designs by me. g10 liner on front,back.middles of tang. double edged super penetrator profile for dispatching hogs.


  2. Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build Here are the pictures of my Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build, made using a Mole Hand Grinder found on the internet (which has a 1 to 10 gear ratio), some old side pannels off a PC, a few small rivets, some protective steel corners that came with a kitchen worktop and some 12mm Aluminium angle iron. Here are the picture's of the grinder on its own. The back piece with the right angled brackets. Starting to rivet together the fan blade using 12mm aluminium angle iron. Cutting the brackets to size and drilling the holes for the rivets. After riveting the first part of the fan case together. I then ran out of rivets but decided to continue using cardboard to check everything would work alright. The rivets I needed arrived and so the rest of the fan surround went on as well as the bolts to hold the front panel on. Here is the fan blades and mounting disk, its not perfectly balanced so does 'wobble' abit but it should be fine for the amount I will be using it. And here is the 'almost' finished blower. I ran a line of bathroom chalk around the joins on the inside of the case to cover any small gaps and the bolts hold the front on tight. I don't own a hole saw large enough to make the 80cm dia hole in the front so lots of small holes with have to do for now. All that remains is to find a piece of tubing to connect the blower to the forge and then try it out. The blower seems to be providing a reasonable amount of airflow although I think it isn't recieving enough airflow from the holes in the front. Ill try to take a video when its working and post a link to this thread. This blower has probably cost me between £40-£50 and around 30-40 hours of time, I'm a pretty slower worker but when your doing something you enjoy the time really doesn't matter. Buying a hand cranked blower in okay condition would have most likely cost £60+ but I wouldn't have learned anywhere near as much as I did by doing it myself. My original inspiration came from this thread here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/22816-home-built-hand-blower/ If anyone has any suggestions or advice, or wants to ask any questions then by all means feel free. Thanks for reading and hopefully there isn't too many pictures, I know how much you guys enjoy them. Tom
  3. They say a picture tells a thousand words, but what about a video? Anyway, I recently fixed up a Alcosa Forge Blower. I took videos of the process on my phone, partly so I remembered what went where and also because I like doing abit of video editing now and then. So here's 3 short videos highlighting the steps I took to restore the blower. The videos wont be everyone's cup of tea, but nobody is forcing you to watch them. Tom Thanks
  4. The last couple of days I lit my forge and spent the day hammering, I noticed that for a day or two afterward I can't fully bend the middle finger on my hammer hand. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what causes this condition and are there steps I can take to help alleviate the symptoms and prevent this from happening in the future?
  5. Roy Ubu

    Pond brace

    © smine

  6. Roy Ubu

    Brace hand

    © smine

  7. I have been looking for specif information about the experienced of blacksmiths who have experienced blisters. I have searched forums on a lot of sites and can't find anything regarding this specific...obstacle. I've been working at this art for the past 5 months. I have come gotten some nasty blisters. I have gotten a nice callus...that turned into a blister and ripped off a good chunk of my hammer swinger. ****I'm not complaining.**** it's obvious that it comes with the territory...but I am looking for a way to help, not only myself, but other people who may be in my position; to help them work through this in a manner that will help them find a desired condition of their increasingly important hands. ;) I'm curious what experienced blacksmiths would say about this. I'm guessing the smart thing to do is to work in spurts at first. don't work through the pain and let your hands heal up before you get back to your forge. Any specific advise to add to this? :) Many thanks to any attention this gets.
  8. My first knife ever I made this with home made charcol in a home made forge on a rail road track and a 4 lb sledge, all finnish work was done with files and wet stones.
  9. My second knife ever I made this with home made charcol in a home made forge on a rail road track and a 4 lb sledge, all finnish work was done with files and wet stones. The finnish is bassically toasted on olive oil wile I was heat treating it I quenched it in olive oil then baked it and it's actually a really durable finnish. Sorry for crappy photo quality.
  10. Forged this knife for a retirement gift for a co worker. Forged it from 1095 steel. Full tang. Blade is 8 1/2" OAL. Full flat grind with a satin finish. Hand rubbed to 600 grit. Nice deep choil. Decorative filework on spine of the tang. Brick red liners. Handles sanded by hand to 3000 grit and buffed. Sculpted to fit in hand. Fitted with 1/8" bronze pins and a 1/4" brass lanyard tube. Sheath is 7 oz leather, hand sewn. Full welt. Line 24 brass snap. Antiqued finish and border tooling. I like the way it all came together.
  11. Forged this knife out of a farriers rasp a few weeks ago and got it finished up. Knife has a full flat grind, hand rubbed satin finish. I left a few of the file and rasp marks in the blade to add some character. Blade is 10" OAL. Fitted with stabilized Honduran Rosewood handle scales that have been scupted to fit your hand better. Handles sanded by hand to 800 grit. SS pins and an aluminum lanyard tube. Did some filework on the spine of the tang for a little class. Sheath is a pouch style made from 7 oz leather. Hand sewn with some border tooling. Dyed medium brown. Turned out nice.
  12. I forged this little slicer a few weeks ago and thought I would share some pics of it. I forged it from an old nicholson file. I filed in a rope pattern on the spine. The blade was clay coated with satenite and differentially heat treated. Giving it a hamon. Not the best one I have done and the pics don't do it much justice, but it shows up in person a lot better. It has a piece of stabilized mesquite burl with a red vulcanized spacer in between the whitetail antler. The blade is super sharp. A nice little slicer. Let me know what you guys think!
  13. I finished these over the weekend. The small one is a little paring knife I made for a guy. It is 1095, full flat grind, very sharp little cutter. It is a hidden tang style with cherry wood handle and a buffalo horn spacer and a red vulcanized spacer. It was clay coated and differentially hardened. Not a whole lot of activity on the hamon, but I am still learning how to get it to look like I want. The larger one is a stock removal project I did out of a file. It is a larger slicer or boning knife. It is fitted with buffalo horn scales, burnt orange liner and attached with 3/16 brass pins. I left the file marks in the flats and the ricasso area. It turned out pretty neat looking. I annealled the file before I ground it out. I have heard of people tempering it down to the desired hardness and grinding the blade out without having to heat treat and temper again. Just using the heat treat that is already in the file. Most files are in the 63 to 64 range. If you temper it down to the desired hardness, you can just go ahead and grind your blade as long as you don't get it too hot. Tough on your belts though.
  14. Forged this blade this morning. It is a full hidden tang made from 1095. It has a 3/4 full flat grind on it. Nice distal taper. Blade is approximately 5" long and 1 1/4 wide and about 3/16 thick. Gonna be fitted with a brass guard and whitetail antler. Going to texture the guard with a ball peen hammer. Let me know what you guys think!
  15. Any one have any experience using one of these for a small forge? Found it on amazon. It's a hand crank blower made for heating up grill coals. It seems like a lot of work, but in a pinch.. http://www.amazon.com/AIR-GRILL-BLOWER-Charcoal-Fireplaces/dp/B0001WOLOS Saw a vid of a camper using one for a small forge.
  • Create New...