Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'safety'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 24 results

  1. In short, I've considered my options (I can explain if you want), and I'm planning to make a vertical sword oven using a 100 lb propane tank as the shell. Video 1, Video 2, thread. I don't plan to make it electrically controlled. I want to get swords up to critical temperature for normalizing and the quench. If I can temper them too, that's a bonus. There are some things I want to ask about/confirm. This group suggests 2 inches of kaowool for forges. I assume the same goes for this oven. It would be nice to not have to worry about airborne fibers (I'll wear a respirator if there are), but it would be difficult to apply rigidizer or castable refractory the usual way because of the size. Because this is an oven, I don't think it needs castable refractory. I think I could only use rigidizer and be safe. I think the rigidizer doesn't harden the kaowool immediately, so I think I should be able to apply rigidizer to the pieces while they're flat, then bend them into the shell and let the rigidizer dry/cure. I've read that a gallon of rigidizer will make a hard surface (but not a hard hard interior) on 25 square feet. If I were to rigidize both layers completely, it would be a lot of rigidizer, and I don't know if that would be necessary for this application. My guess is that if I were to harden the surface of all the exposed kaowool, I would be safe from airborne fibers. If that won't work, how do I make it safe? As for ITC-100, it would be a lot, I don't think I could apply it because of the dimensions, and I don't think it's necessary for this application. I have problems with my coal forge, and have been wanting to switch to propane. I thought that while at it building the oven, I could finally build a propane forge from a 20 lb propane tank. I won't be using the forge and the oven at the same time, so I considered buying one high quality burner (rather than 2 cheap burners) and moving the burner (held in with thumb screws) between the forge and the oven as needed, and eventually getting another burner if I think it's worth it. I was thinking of getting a 3/4" t-rex burner for that.
  2. I have a forge with kaowool that is coated with satanite but it keeps nagging at me that fibres May still be getting out and I want to know if the forge is not in use do fibres still come off and into the air? The forge is in my shed where the workshop is along with a small gym and I want to know if the forge being in there will be putting dangerous fibres into the air just by it being in there or should I make a box and keep it outside? Please assume the forge is not coated if answering, thanks
  3. Hello, CNC machinist here. I was wondering how dangerous it is to work with this material as the paperwork that came with it states it is 7.4% Lead. Obviously, I'm going to be machining it although it will be constantly getting sprayed down with coolant. I've worked with this material in the past but never knew about the high lead content. Is this a serious risk to my health?
  4. Hello there! I work as a purchasing agent for a heat treat in Arizona, this might not be the best place to post this for answers, but I thought it would be worth a shot. I am currently trying to find a better quality (latex, vinyl, or nitrile) glove for general purpose use, i.e. cleaning with acetone, oil dip, etc. We are currently using a 5 mil vinyl glove and are going through roughly 5000 gloves per month and the general consensus is that they are basically only good for a single use. Has anyone found a higher quality glove that will not be torn down by oil? If Iron Man and Silver Surfer teamed up, would they be alloys?
  5. Hi all, I am a newbie to this site. I had previously tried my hand at some backyard/ hobby blacksmithing before, but it was not very successful. The forge I was using previously had air blowing in from the side and I could not figure out how to get concentrated heat (I know realize air coming in from the bottom is much more efficient). I have now obtained a brake drum (which for some reason is pretty difficult in my area) and will be making a simple brake drum forge. *edit: I no longer have the side hole forge My problem is I live in a residential area with a small back yard and am worried about possible embers flying up into the neighborhood. I was thinking of possibly making the forge stand out of red clay bricks and maybe making some sort of simple overhead structure (maybe a piece of sheet metal sandwiched between some bricks) to rest a few feet above the forge. Does anyone else have a simple solution to the ember problem? (other than using a propane forge). I also DO NOT have access to a welder currently. oh also, the forge will not be located in a shop if that wasn't already clear
  6. I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets a little too warm for dope to work correctly, but I want to know what you guys do anyway. My concern is dope getting the regulator, gauge, and possibly the burner all fouled up. My other concern is having a gas leak and potentially losing my shop and/or some parts that I was born with. I know that it's a touchy subject, so I'll state for the record that I take full responsibility for everything that goes right or wrong in my shop and on my property. I'm only asking what you folks do for your venturi forges. I am not asking for you to tell me what to do. If you know of a resource I can use to get that information, I would greatly appreciate that as well. Thanks, Patrick
  7. I went to get a respirator and the one I was looking at said not to use with beards. I cant be the only guy with a beard that needs one. So what are you other bearded guys useing. Thanks Mel
  8. I've gotten several messages all asking what the best possible clothes should be worn while forging...well at first approximation, it seems rather simple...but after some thought, It's not quite that easy after all. So here's the original response and reasonings. So let's get the recommendations done first and then I'll tell you the reasonings behind these directives. First and foremost, the safest are 100% cotton clothes and second, leather. There that was simple and painless. So what do I have against synthetic fibers? Its quite simple. It is a given that slag, sparks, scale, and molten metals are going to be shot all over the immediate area, you will have punctate particles burning through the clothing, and possibly melt it. Thus rendering your clothing no longer useful in preventing burns. Now I'm certain all of us had small pinpoint burns on hour hands parts of our face and exposed limbs for certain. However, under and surrounding the scab is viable tissue that in no way, can stand up to the punishment of flying sparks. I will refrain from using the " degree" classification for now. Lets assume you are forging in the nude, I can't imagine anyone trying this out to see what the results would be. Lets imagine that you are welding in the nude, or forge welding and the first few hammer strikes are sending molten slag and flux all over the place...And given the height of the anvil, you can imagine what your first victims went through. If you are then covered in cotton clothing and leather, the sparks fly in every direction and if burning a hole into cotton (easily done) or leather (not to easy) you two will experience some painful side effects that will heal all by itself. Now lets throw on some clothing made with fibers from nylon, or containing nitrogen with in the fiber molecule. If this were to catch fire or just smolder while you are working close to the flames, when it combusts, any materials containing nitrogen and carbon will have produced cyanide in high enough concentrations to render you toxic if not removed. If the fibers are chemically similar to PVC and the like, combustion of these materials will release hydrogen chloride. When dissolved in water based solutions, like perspiration, fluids in the lungs etc, the HCl will form hydrochloric acid as a byproduct and chemically burn the tissues. Lungs that are burnt within the tissue hardly ever heal leaving pockets of hydrochloric aside furthering the burning destructive process. Depending on your exposure and response time, it is highly toxic and potentially ruin your ability to breathe. If your clothing is a mix of cotton and synthetic fibers, you still run an elevated risk of toxin inhalation...and if the direct damage doesn't harm you the immediately, it is highly probable that the inflammatory response will wind up filling your lungs with fluid resulting in literally drowning and never set foot in a pool. So what is the deal with even cotton, well its a good question, on its own, it is very safe to make clothing etc from. And if burnt will go through similar injurious patters as above. But now we have to consider the combustion by product of not only cotton but any material containing carbon. Without the process of replacing the local air volumes say during breezes, incomplete burning/ oxidation of any carbon containing material will be carbon monoxide. Now to finish up the carbon based fibers particularly cotton. When is it not safe by any means. Well think of this. I had patient who presented with a story consistent with a flash burn. Given his history, I wanted to dig a bit further into his story at presentation. Bottom line was that his pants caught fire and went up in less than a second. His wife said that they were talking while he was forging when his cotton denim pants erupted in flame. Yes , his genitals were damaged so bad they needed plastic surgery to come in to cover the wound with cultured skins. What caused the flash burn....well that was still up for questioning. After some preliminary treatment and pain meds, I went back to continue his interview and he referred to his pants and himself as a walking flame thrower. Well not quite exactly the point I wanted to make but it will work for now. It turns out his other favorite hobby was refining gold from a wide assortment of discarded electronics and circuit boards. The light bulb went off.....so much so that you could see my propeller beanie just whizzing around in a fury. I asked about his exposure to nitric acid...I had just learned of its use in refining gold . He had spilled some on his pants and he hung them out to dry. And dry they did, so he puts them back on and immediately as the fire in the forge ignited so did his pants. I put a small piece of cotton in a sample of nitric acid and got a similar response. At that point it made me a believer of some of these stories I was getting.....The reason is that the spill inadvertently produced nitrocellulose or flash cotton. DocChuck
  9. This is my first post, which I hate to make a series of questions but the deed is done. I'll try to find a place to be helpful, but I am pretty knew to this so I don't know where that would be. I also do not know if this is the correct place to pose a question, if it is not I apologize and ask I be told the correct place. I would absolutely love to make cast iron cook wear, but that seems to be very outside the realm of possibility for my self at the moment. I really want a nice solid skillet that wasn't purchased from lodge. So I was thinking about casting bronze cook wear. I have seen videos and read stories of people doing it but they don't seem to get into the safety side of cooking with bronze. So does anyone have any Idea how to make cooksafe bonze? Or if that is even a thing? Information on the subject is very limited. The only safety tip I can find for cooking with bronze is don't cook acidic foods for the same reason you shouldn't do it with copper cook wear, not much more info than that though. I mainly need an idea for a source of leadfree tin, or just a source of tin. On a related note what about crucibles. I found recipes for fireclay crucibles, which I know are cheap and will crack after a few heats, but will it work for this? I would rather have to make a crucible over and over than buy an expensive one and always fear it will crack and Ill be out the money. As I said, cast iron is a long way off, but out of curiosity where does one find iron? All I can ever find is mild or hard steel, I don't think I have ever seen purchasable iron, even if it was labeled as iron it turned out to be just very low carbon steel. I can post pictures of my forge set up if needed, it's pretty ugly though so Ill refrain unless it is needed. Totally unrelated to this post, as this is my first post I have no idea what the tag system is so I made some up that I figured might exist. Is there a list somewhere? I looked but did not see one, granted I didn't look very hard. Oh and if you don't know an answer to my question, but know of a resource that may contain the information I seek I would love to hear about it.
  10. So, I have been using an Atlas mini forge and I am looking into upgrading to something bigger the only thing is I'm a little worried about breathing ceramic fibers from the lining of most of the forges I have been looking at. The forge I am thinking of getting says that the ceramic lining is factory rigidized vacuum formed ceramic liner. I don't really know what this means. By rigidized does it mean that the lining has been coated and I don't need to worry about breathing ceramic fibers during normal use of the forge? If it helps the forge I am looking at is the Majestic Forge 3 burner knifemaker deluxe. Here is a link to the forge https://www.majesticforge.com/product/3-burner-knifemaker-deluxe/
  11. While carving a burner port in an insulating fire brick last night without any power tools, I got a particle embedded in my eye. No I was not wearing safety glasses and just using a hand file. I don't know how it happened exactly. The particle was on my iris and would not flush out no matter how much water I splashed or ran across my eyeball. Fortunately, several hours later it dislodged naturally. Just a word of warning for those that don't think they need safety glasses when using hand tools.
  12. Funny how the smallest of things can make a difference. I usually wear my watch at the forge because I keep a check on demo times etc and never had any issues with it. I was forging a rusty bit of steel today and a piece of hot scale lodged itself behind the watch band. Didn't think much of it, but luckily the quench tub was close. Hmmm. Think maybe I'll keep the watch in my pocket or get a wall clock in the smithy. It's not a serious safety issue of course, but anyone else encountered those little incidents that matter?
  13. I have had some time on my hands, and my thoughts were directed toward "You" who carry on the skills and triditions of being a Blacksmith. I mainly wanted to say hello to many of my old friends, and greet new members of I Forge Iron. I just got out of the ICU Unit of the hospital. I am hoping to go home soon, I just had a new aorta valve placed in my heart. Oops just had the nurse come in for blood. Ha Ha I say it because it is what is happening. I need to go, but one main thing I want to say to you. That is think smart, and forge with safety as your constant friend. You can walk with a wooden leg, but you cannot see with a wooden eye!!!!!!!!! My best to all of you. Thank you Glen and Steve.
  14. So I see people talking about how you should stay away from forging galvanized metal, but I know that after a long time it can rust. If it's rusted would it be safe to smelt at that point? thanks
  15. So I bought a propane cylinder from Uhaul about 4 years ago made by Worthington. I noticed it was smelling like sewer gas and discovered a hole in the tank along the weld next to the stem. This is just a word of caution to all the metalsmiths, ie. mostly jewelers, that would have a propane tank inside. So much for hydrostatic testing. Check out the video here: Leaking Propane Cylinder
  16. Not to be a NAG ..here is also somthing few know. using a propane forge one needs to wear "Didymium" glasses . it the glasses it has a filter that blocks out the sodium flair/yellowish light "AT 589 NM " =IR+UV .glass blowers also need to use them . it will save your eyes as even a welders mask does not work like these. Didymium is about 15 years outdated, see pinned post
  17. HI all. I got given a LPG (propane) forge and have used it for about 3 years on and off and never had any issues. Now I'm getting sore thorats, headaches and a bit of nausea after I use it for a prolonged time (full day, multiple days in a row), issues I never had before, same forge and same space. Two things have changed - i relined it and increased the insulation - it initially only had ceramic fibre board insulation. I replaced the ceramic fibre board also used some ITC products to seal thefibre board, boost reflectivity etc.. The other thing I did was I removed the back forge wall with the intention of putting in a door for longer pieces. I got busy and haven't got round to it so the back is open. With the increased insulation, the heat is greater in the forge, and the flame also seems more intense, stronger, and has a greater blast coming out the front. As far as I'm concerned the flame is a good level of blue, though I'm no expert. I'm wondering if the flame is perhaps running too rich and not burning off all the LPG/Propane? Would having the back open effect things at all? My prime concern is that I'm creating more CO now then I was before I relined the forge. There is an air adjustment which I've never messed with because I never had any issues previously, perhaps this needs adjusting?. I have a lot of ventilation via a large barn style sliding door, and air vents which run down one side of the space, which previously seemed adequate I'm after thoughts, advice on how I might go about dealing with this, as I don't really have a lot of experience with gas. I'd like to get back to how it was before honestly, I had less heat but I also felt better! Advice gratefully accepted! Nate
  18. Hello all! Very excited to have found this website I recently purchased my first home, in the Atlanta suburbs with an acre of woods sloping down to a stream out back, and immediately started fantasizing about what I could do with my first bit of land. Fast forward a few months, and I've cleared and leveled a spot where I'm telling friends I want to build a little bloomery and smelt some local ore. Why? I don't need a reason. But for the sake of the missus and other people who don't "get it", I'm saying that I want to demonstrate that it's possible, using only implements available to pre-1492 locals, to source ore and smelt it into tools more useful in some respect than polished stone tools. I expect to learn, along the way, some reasons why the pre-1492 locals never did get around to doing this, although my suspicion is that they only lacked whatever happy accidents got the ball rolling in the old world. I feel no particular need to do anything authentically, since we have no evidence of any hot metallurgy east of the Mississippi before the Europeans arrived... so using more advanced techniques is fine... but where practical (this is a hobby) and safe I'd prefer to stick to materials a local would have had access to. I think I need to: make charcoalfind local ore that could be extracted with with stone or wood implementsconstruct a bloomeryconstruct tools for fussing with the bloomery (tongs, anvil, hammer, bellows, tuyeres, ?)fire the bloomery, producing a bloom of questionable construct a forge for re-heating the bloomfire the forge and beat the iron into some kind of useful shape (perhaps a pick, hammer, or other implement to make the next go easier)Now, that's actually probably a bit too tall of a project, given that I've done exactly none of this before, so I'm already stepping down my expectations e.g. I want to make charcoal but I don't see the need to tend a collier's pit for 7 days straight so I'll be using some safer/faster if perhaps less efficient method. I also don't feel the need to prove that several of my friends have nothing better to do for several full weekends than work a bellows all day long for me (I already know this is true), nor that you can construct a bellows using only hides (we know this to be true), so an electric blower seems like a good concession to make. Here are some of my questions: - Where can I get local ore? I know NW Georgia and as far south as Red Top Mtn had historic low-purity mines, and Birmingham AL had some very rich hematite operations, but I don't know how to get my hands on it. The mines aren't active so I doubt it's for sale, and from what I can see nobody actually sells ore in less than hundreds-of-tons orders anyway. Can I walk off with rocks from public land, e.g. I think I saw another post on here mention finding ore-bearing rocks around the shore of Lake Allatoona? Is there some other source I'm not considering? - How much ore should I be trying in a maiden attempt here? Too little would be frustrating for obvious reasons. Too much might make the process impractical (time or scale), or maybe reasons I haven't thought of (is it reasonable to break off a smaller hunk of the bloom to shape into a tool?). - Is a 1:1 charcoal:ore ratio appropriate, and is that by weight or by volume? - Any ideas on tuyere construction using primitive materials? Making terra cotta pipes with local clay sounds like a PITA but an option, but I'm not sure how I'd keep them from breaking in action. Should I give on this one? - How much clear space do I need around the bloomery to be safe? Horizontal and vertical (the backyard is heavily wooded, I'd have to do a LOT of cutting to get a 100% clear path to the sky). Also, when I started my little clearing I dug down 4-6" below the eventual floor-height, pulling out all the roots and such for fear of a forge on the dirt above getting hot enough to make them smolder right through the dirt... My research on charcoal-making has me convinced they could smolder and start a fire a week later when they finally hit open air. Am I being safe enough? - Recommended reading on bloomery / forge construction? I'm thinking square/round, angle and elevation of tuyeres, shape/size of mouth and should there be a depression so I can angle a slag-poker in there, so on. - Tongs? I don't want to be unsafe just to prove a point, but having some way to handle the hot stuff seems like it would've been a major obstacle to bootstrapping a local metal industry, so I'd like to at least think about how that could be done without already having iron. - What steps and resources am I leaving out? - What safety am I forgetting? Thanks!! -Steve
  19. Hello everyone, i am starting this topic as a reference for online stores that sell blacksmithing equipment in Europe since i couldn't find a similar topic in the forum. Until now i found only Angele that has a wide variety of tools, but because of the high prices i am looking for some other stores to order some stuff needed for the forge. can everyone suggest some online stores that have tongs and other forging tools so as to look through them? if there is a similar post please tell me so i can delete this one. thanks in advance! happy august holidays to everyone!
  20. Well, after some unexpected circumstances, you could say that I ended up with an abandoned truck at my "side-yard". It seems to have been there for about 10 years, maybe. It is kind of a god-send, given that I'm starting up in this craft. It seems that there is a LOT of usable materials, of different quality and composition, and some parts that might be useful as they are, even if they are not good as forge material. I know that I can (at least) use leaf springs, axles, and maybe some other parts. I see some tanks that can be useful as a gas-forge, and quenching-tank. I know almost nothing about cars, and even less about trucks, so I'm standing here, asking for your help today. I want to take all usable part from this vehicle, but I have no idea how to do it SAFELY. I really wouldn't like a leaf spring to jump full-force into my face, a tire blowing up, or the whole truck falling on me. Most likely I won't be able to use any electric tool, since there is no electricity in this particular space yet, or anywhere close. Here are some small photos: (More High resolution pictures in this link: http://imgur.com/a/v9pIW#0 ) This is the old truck A lot of leaf-spring metal 4 of these stacks, one for each wheel (safety goggles for scale) Future gas forge/quenching tank (there are 3 of these tanks, oil tanks I believe?) BIG heavy chunk of metal. Probably useful, right? No idea what this is, but it seems to be aluminium. It left these marks when I hit it with a very small hammer. What's that? Could it be...? Yep. It is. The engine is still there. Useful? This is all, sorry for all the pictures. As I said, I'm quite lost as to how to go around with this. I have never really done any kind of "real work", but I want to do this. I believe it will be a great experience, and I will learn a lot from this. But, I don't want to break a bone, lose a finger, or worse. So, can you please help? PS: More pictures, high quality: http://imgur.com/a/v9pIW#0
  21. I would like to tie 2 or three 100 lb. tanks together. What is the proper/safe way to do this?
  22. Hey Folks, My first post, not for lack of trying though, seemed my account was messed up and couldn't get it resolved until the site upgrade. Which is great because I just bought my first power hammer, a 25LB Mayer Bros of unknown age and need your expert assistance! My primary concern is what should I know in terms of safety? I haven't wired it up and played with it myself yet but I did get to fire it up before I bought it and it seemed to run great. So far I haven't found any welds, cracks or obvious signs of wear or potential failure. Are there any parts or pieces I should check? Is there a site out there detailing this? I did a search on here and couldn't find much. Something else I was curious about was the cages I see built around the spring. What do you guys think of these? Are they a necessity or is it an extra precaution? I have more but less pressing questions but I'll save those for later in an effort to keep this on the shorter side, and no doubt some will be answered as I continue to read up on them. Thanks -Clint
  23. Here is my blacksmithing apron i had made, along with some cuffs. I started smithing a year ago and as with my traditional archery i have embraced the culture of the trade. I also am a taller thicker built guy so finding a thick leather apron was difficult. I am happy with the way it turned out it. The upper is a stiff chunk of bull hide and the bottom Bison hid which is very thick but pretty flexible. Cuffs are the same leather as the upper portion of the apron. My wife is not happy about all the burn holes in my sleves and front of my shirt. I have suffered some pretty good burns on my forearms and am glad to have some protection. I know it may sound wimpy to some but I would like to preserve my body so as to enjoy smithing for a longer duration of time.
  24. Is there any reason for not forging some things cold, assuming the following; You have the force available to do this i.e. 100lb hammer, Wear on the tools is not an issue either because they are much harder and tougher than the mild steel being forged ,or replacing them is a non issue. The amount of material be moved is small and there aren’t quality issues like cold shunts, the appearance is as good or better than the look when forged hot. There are a number of positive reasons for doing this that are obvious, to people on this forum, so I won’t bother listing them. I’m thinking of things like pattern embossing along the length of bars as an example. Your thoughts on this please…. And no I’m not worried about peeing the bed for hammering metal cold!
  • Create New...