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Found 23 results

  1. I have a forge with kaowool that is coated with satanite but it keeps nagging at me that fibres May still be getting out and I want to know if the forge is not in use do fibres still come off and into the air? The forge is in my shed where the workshop is along with a small gym and I want to know if the forge being in there will be putting dangerous fibres into the air just by it being in there or should I make a box and keep it outside? Please assume the forge is not coated if answering, thanks
  2. Hello, CNC machinist here. I was wondering how dangerous it is to work with this material as the paperwork that came with it states it is 7.4% Lead. Obviously, I'm going to be machining it although it will be constantly getting sprayed down with coolant. I've worked with this material in the past but never knew about the high lead content. Is this a serious risk to my health?
  3. Hello there! I work as a purchasing agent for a heat treat in Arizona, this might not be the best place to post this for answers, but I thought it would be worth a shot. I am currently trying to find a better quality (latex, vinyl, or nitrile) glove for general purpose use, i.e. cleaning with acetone, oil dip, etc. We are currently using a 5 mil vinyl glove and are going through roughly 5000 gloves per month and the general consensus is that they are basically only good for a single use. Has anyone found a higher quality glove that will not be torn down by oil? If Ir
  4. Hi all, I am a newbie to this site. I had previously tried my hand at some backyard/ hobby blacksmithing before, but it was not very successful. The forge I was using previously had air blowing in from the side and I could not figure out how to get concentrated heat (I know realize air coming in from the bottom is much more efficient). I have now obtained a brake drum (which for some reason is pretty difficult in my area) and will be making a simple brake drum forge. *edit: I no longer have the side hole forge My problem is I live in a residential area with a small back
  5. I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets
  6. I went to get a respirator and the one I was looking at said not to use with beards. I cant be the only guy with a beard that needs one. So what are you other bearded guys useing. Thanks Mel
  7. I've gotten several messages all asking what the best possible clothes should be worn while forging...well at first approximation, it seems rather simple...but after some thought, It's not quite that easy after all. So here's the original response and reasonings. So let's get the recommendations done first and then I'll tell you the reasonings behind these directives. First and foremost, the safest are 100% cotton clothes and second, leather. There that was simple and painless. So what do I have against synthetic fibers? Its quite simple. It is a given that slag, sparks, scale, and molten meta
  8. This is my first post, which I hate to make a series of questions but the deed is done. I'll try to find a place to be helpful, but I am pretty knew to this so I don't know where that would be. I also do not know if this is the correct place to pose a question, if it is not I apologize and ask I be told the correct place. I would absolutely love to make cast iron cook wear, but that seems to be very outside the realm of possibility for my self at the moment. I really want a nice solid skillet that wasn't purchased from lodge. So I was thinking about casting bronze cook wear. I have
  9. So, I have been using an Atlas mini forge and I am looking into upgrading to something bigger the only thing is I'm a little worried about breathing ceramic fibers from the lining of most of the forges I have been looking at. The forge I am thinking of getting says that the ceramic lining is factory rigidized vacuum formed ceramic liner. I don't really know what this means. By rigidized does it mean that the lining has been coated and I don't need to worry about breathing ceramic fibers during normal use of the forge? If it helps the forge I am looking at is the Majestic Forge 3 burner knifem
  10. While carving a burner port in an insulating fire brick last night without any power tools, I got a particle embedded in my eye. No I was not wearing safety glasses and just using a hand file. I don't know how it happened exactly. The particle was on my iris and would not flush out no matter how much water I splashed or ran across my eyeball. Fortunately, several hours later it dislodged naturally. Just a word of warning for those that don't think they need safety glasses when using hand tools.
  11. Funny how the smallest of things can make a difference. I usually wear my watch at the forge because I keep a check on demo times etc and never had any issues with it. I was forging a rusty bit of steel today and a piece of hot scale lodged itself behind the watch band. Didn't think much of it, but luckily the quench tub was close. Hmmm. Think maybe I'll keep the watch in my pocket or get a wall clock in the smithy. It's not a serious safety issue of course, but anyone else encountered those little incidents that matter?
  12. I have had some time on my hands, and my thoughts were directed toward "You" who carry on the skills and triditions of being a Blacksmith. I mainly wanted to say hello to many of my old friends, and greet new members of I Forge Iron. I just got out of the ICU Unit of the hospital. I am hoping to go home soon, I just had a new aorta valve placed in my heart. Oops just had the nurse come in for blood. Ha Ha I say it because it is what is happening. I need to go, but one main thing I want to say to you. That is think smart, and forge with safety as your constant friend. You can w
  13. So I see people talking about how you should stay away from forging galvanized metal, but I know that after a long time it can rust. If it's rusted would it be safe to smelt at that point? thanks
  14. So I bought a propane cylinder from Uhaul about 4 years ago made by Worthington. I noticed it was smelling like sewer gas and discovered a hole in the tank along the weld next to the stem. This is just a word of caution to all the metalsmiths, ie. mostly jewelers, that would have a propane tank inside. So much for hydrostatic testing. Check out the video here: Leaking Propane Cylinder
  15. Not to be a NAG ..here is also somthing few know. using a propane forge one needs to wear "Didymium" glasses . it the glasses it has a filter that blocks out the sodium flair/yellowish light "AT 589 NM " =IR+UV .glass blowers also need to use them . it will save your eyes as even a welders mask does not work like these. Didymium is about 15 years outdated, see pinned post
  16. HI all. I got given a LPG (propane) forge and have used it for about 3 years on and off and never had any issues. Now I'm getting sore thorats, headaches and a bit of nausea after I use it for a prolonged time (full day, multiple days in a row), issues I never had before, same forge and same space. Two things have changed - i relined it and increased the insulation - it initially only had ceramic fibre board insulation. I replaced the ceramic fibre board also used some ITC products to seal thefibre board, boost reflectivity etc.. The other thing I did was I removed the back forge wa
  17. Hello all! Very excited to have found this website I recently purchased my first home, in the Atlanta suburbs with an acre of woods sloping down to a stream out back, and immediately started fantasizing about what I could do with my first bit of land. Fast forward a few months, and I've cleared and leveled a spot where I'm telling friends I want to build a little bloomery and smelt some local ore. Why? I don't need a reason. But for the sake of the missus and other people who don't "get it", I'm saying that I want to demonstrate that it's possible, using only implements available to pre-1492
  18. Hello everyone, i am starting this topic as a reference for online stores that sell blacksmithing equipment in Europe since i couldn't find a similar topic in the forum. Until now i found only Angele that has a wide variety of tools, but because of the high prices i am looking for some other stores to order some stuff needed for the forge. can everyone suggest some online stores that have tongs and other forging tools so as to look through them? if there is a similar post please tell me so i can delete this one. thanks in advance! happy august holidays to everyone!
  19. Well, after some unexpected circumstances, you could say that I ended up with an abandoned truck at my "side-yard". It seems to have been there for about 10 years, maybe. It is kind of a god-send, given that I'm starting up in this craft. It seems that there is a LOT of usable materials, of different quality and composition, and some parts that might be useful as they are, even if they are not good as forge material. I know that I can (at least) use leaf springs, axles, and maybe some other parts. I see some tanks that can be useful as a gas-forge, and quenching-tank. I know almost nothing abo
  20. I would like to tie 2 or three 100 lb. tanks together. What is the proper/safe way to do this?
  21. Hey Folks, My first post, not for lack of trying though, seemed my account was messed up and couldn't get it resolved until the site upgrade. Which is great because I just bought my first power hammer, a 25LB Mayer Bros of unknown age and need your expert assistance! My primary concern is what should I know in terms of safety? I haven't wired it up and played with it myself yet but I did get to fire it up before I bought it and it seemed to run great. So far I haven't found any welds, cracks or obvious signs of wear or potential failure. Are there any parts or pieces I should check? Is there a
  22. Here is my blacksmithing apron i had made, along with some cuffs. I started smithing a year ago and as with my traditional archery i have embraced the culture of the trade. I also am a taller thicker built guy so finding a thick leather apron was difficult. I am happy with the way it turned out it. The upper is a stiff chunk of bull hide and the bottom Bison hid which is very thick but pretty flexible. Cuffs are the same leather as the upper portion of the apron. My wife is not happy about all the burn holes in my sleves and front of my shirt. I have suffered some pretty good burns on my f
  23. Is there any reason for not forging some things cold, assuming the following; You have the force available to do this i.e. 100lb hammer, Wear on the tools is not an issue either because they are much harder and tougher than the mild steel being forged ,or replacing them is a non issue. The amount of material be moved is small and there aren’t quality issues like cold shunts, the appearance is as good or better than the look when forged hot. There are a number of positive reasons for doing this that are obvious, to people on this forum, so I won’t bother listing them. I’m thinking of things
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