Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About twigg

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Boulder County, Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for the info! I see what you mean now. Might have to try one
  2. Mikey, I'm having a hard time picturing the butt-welded fitting you're describing. Is there any chance you have a picture or a link to these? Thanks! Also, using a canning supplies in a burner build? That sounds like a one-way ticket to the doghouse if I ever heard one
  3. I'm with nodebt on this. The ultimate "color code" is what color they glow when you stick one in the circuit
  4. Fixed the carriage from binding up on the tailstock-end of the ways by lapping with way oil and bon ami powder cleaner, per suggestions from cartertools' taig page. It was surprisingly easy to do. Just ran the carriage up and down a few times with the slurry, cleaned it off, and it ran smoothly. Much better than before. I successfully drilled and tapped a 1/4" x 1/4" plumbing tee (only to remember I meant to use a 1/4" x 3/8", d'oh!) using the arbor I made earlier. I forgot to only partially tap the whole, so now the 3d printer nozzle goes too deep into the tee. I'm going to buy or make s
  5. Rockstar, universities should pay you to give talks to first year graduate students. I can't begin to express how badly so many of my peers need to hear this (including myself several years ago). Students give too much credit to bad teachers and worse advisors who treat their students like trash. When I chose my advisor, half the decision came down to politics and different researcher's reputations. I recall being warned about a certain research professor who people quipped would've "spilled the blood of a young graduate student over his experiment as an offering if it got results." And how di
  6. Mikey, just to clarify, am I reading this right: to tune the burner, you'd screw the lamp-threaded pipe nipple in or out to move the mig tip back and forth? Then a screw added into the side of the saddle inlet to lock it in place once it's tuned? Also, is there an obvious way to mount a 3/4" NPT nipple to the 1" BSP outlet that I'm not aware of, or is this one of those "get crafty" moments?
  7. The chucks do unscrew from the ram. Taig's jacobs chucks weren't expensive, so I already ordered some and they arrived yesterday. My only complete drill sets are hand-me-downs from my grandfather, so I wound up ordering a stub set for a decent price. Until those show up, I have some spotting drills that are nice and short. Not ideal, because of the different angle, but oh well. I'm going to make the final ID with a boring bar anyways. I did make myself a little wooden handle for the lever that drives the ram (no idea what to call it). Before the handle, it was just a thin piece of flatbar
  8. That second burner looks really hot. Nice work! I'd love to see what's on the end of that 1/8" pipe nipple if you get a chance. Also, are those galvanized fittings? You may want to replace those for your lungs' sake. Zinc does not a fine seasoning make.
  9. There are 4 pulleys (6 on the standard headstock) but no reverse gear (without rewiring the motor). The tensioning jig doesn't have enough play to twist the belt. One thing they definitely goofed on was putting the motor's air intake right where the chips fly off the part. I'm going to put in a chip shield. Aligned the tailstock tonight, by center-drilling a MIG tip (didn't have any other non-ferrous stock laying around), loosening the tail-stock grub screw, and pressing the center into the 60deg taper of the center-hole and letting the tail-stock settle in the center. On an unrelate
  10. Understood, nodebt. If there's anything I did or said that sounded dangerous, please let me know! I appreciate the feedback. It's a 4 jaw independent, because that's what I was trained on. I did center it using a dial indicator that's not in the pictures. I hit a wall where I couldn't do better at 0.008" of runout because there was no steel to magnetically clamp the indicator holder, so the dial would jiggle when I spun the part. I suspect that some of that "runout" was just surface roughness, but I couldn't prove it while my setup was so flaky. I hear you on getting rid of the mdf.
  11. I hear you rustyanchor. I've been spending a while shopping around figuring stuff out, and figuring my own needs out. For me the total worked out to about $1200 for everything. There are ways to cut back that I didn't do. If you supply your own motor and base + mounting hardware, that would make it about $1060. I also went with the most expensive headstock+spindle, because I wanted to mess around with collets and liked the added beefiness and spindle bore. With this lathe's standard headstock, and supplying your own motor+base, you'd pay about $550. It all depends on your needs, but I don
  12. Just saw this after responding on the other thread lol It performed really well, considering my lack of experience. I'm pretty thrilled. The sketchiest thing about it is the carriage binding on the way. I did a google search and some people have this issue on the headstock side. That would've been seriously depressing.
  13. The manufacturer sells everything separately or in kits. I picked out a list of what I wanted and ordered it all together. It all came from the same vendor and arrived in one parcel. The motor isn't my favorite part of the setup. $120 for a 1/3 HP AC motor hurt my soul a little bit, especially considering it's not even totally enclosed, and extra especially considering how much this machine could benefit from a DC motor. I paid up because I didn't want to stress over it.
  14. Today marks 0 days since new shiny tool for me. New lathe day! Got it assembled and running, and made a quick part out of malleable iron (from a black iron pipe nipple). Just to get to know the machine. This part will be an arbor to let me work 1/4" tees in a 1/2" collet, for 1/4" frosty burners. NPT thread on one end, 5" shank (I got it 3 thou over Edit: 5 tenths over, cause I can't read apparently) on the other end. I'm a pretty happy guy! There a couple of areas the lathe needs modification methinks. First off, there's no steel anywhere to clamp a dial holder to
  15. I am way too excited right now!!! And I don't have to teach today because of the snow. The stars are aligning!
  • Create New...