Jump to content
I Forge Iron

twigg

Members
  • Content Count

    186
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About twigg

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Boulder County, Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks Mikey! Sorry to drag the conversation back to heating tips, but I just want to make sure I follow. Narrower, longer flames are faster (higher flame velocity), correct? Assuming every other aspect of the burner is equal Haven't forgotten about castable refractory. Just prototyping and playing around for now
  2. Gotcha. I wonder if the same effect can be achieved by parting off the small end of a bell reducer, choosing the position of the cut to select the depth of the bullnose. Might have to try it when my lathe shows up. Edit: When you say a mil, does that mean (since it's a 20% reduction in the outlet) that it's for a 5mm ID mixing tube?
  3. Thanks for the info Mikey! When you say a bull-nose shaped opening, do you mean the rim of the nozzle is thicker than the wall behind it?
  4. After 2 weeks of agonizing over the details, I've finally made my decision: I'm getting myself a taig 1017 with the 5C headstock (I bought a chuck arbor and 4 jaw as well). The order is in! Now the hard part will be getting to sleep at night with all these butterflies in my stomach
  5. Nodebt, I've been cutting my hair and my partner's hair. Talk about pressure The haircutting isn't nearly as bad as the cleanup. Takes me over an hour to de-hair all surfaces.
  6. Deimos, is it bolted to the walls on the sides too or just the back? Just trying to understand where it gets its rigidity from. Looks like a very clean build though! Nice job!
  7. Yeah they ended up fine! It was terrible luck it happened to them because they're the most responsible with ppe out of everyone I know (even before). They eventually ended up using a faceshield with blown, filtered air as their go-to. It's like a faceshield on a hose with a belt where the blower and cartridges are mounted on the back. The belt is big enough it might even double as a lifting belt, not sure. It's a pretty neat device.
  8. You're right AFB, it was a pair of safety glasses, not goggles.
  9. Just wanted to add one thing about angle grinder PPE. If you use a half-face mask and goggles, you should wear a face shield. A family member got a chip in their eye after it ricocheted off their half mask and under their goggles. Needed surgery to get it out. At some point I remember reading similar stories on the web, but I couldn't tell you when/where. It's probably a rare occurrence, but even if the odds are low once you make enough sparks one of them is bound to do it.
  10. You know Thomas, with all these puns you might leave a bad flavour in someone's mouth. All we're looking for is a quantum of consideration.
  11. In grad school for experimental atomic physics, can confirm. If I ever make it through, that quote's going on my dissertation.
  12. I hear ya about stainless being a pain. I'm not looking forward to turning a stainless flame nozzle on the new lathe when I get it.
  13. Congrats Billy Bones! I've been stuck out of the shop for a while as my landlord's had multiple delicate projects going on and I've been stuck grading papers for the courses I'm TAing. Got myself a little harbor freight air nibbler for cutting some 18ga stainless sheet as an outer shell for my two-brick forge (purely aesthetic). I wrecked the cutter after about 2 feet of cut. It was rated to 16ga sheet... 16ga aluminum sheet I guess? Welp, it was $23 so I can't complain. Also been doing more research on mini-lathes. Narrowed my choices down to taig or sherline micro lathes. Anything
  14. The first flame pictures you took, did you use a smart phone camera? If so, I think the camera settings auto adjusted for the brightness of the forge wall. That may be why the flame looks so transparent in the forge but not in the open air test. If you have the time, try this: Get your girlfriend to help out. Have one person with their hand on the valve and ready to ignite the flame, and one person ready with the camera. Start with the forge fully cold (room temp!). One person hits the valve, one person gets the picture before the forge wall gets bright. Compare THAT picture to the open a
  15. Oh no, what's an allergic feller like me to do! Guess I'll just wipe off these tears with all this saved money I have lying around Asa_walrus, just wanted to say nice work. Making a Mikey burner look pretty isn't easy. I know what you mean about the slots. Everything's going to plan, then you wobble off your lines a bit, and you have a really uneven edge, so you go back and take more material off to compensate and you end up with extra large slots. Just a quick tip, if there's ever a next time for ya: a 1/8"-shaft carbide burr on a dremel will let you remove material quickly without g
×
×
  • Create New...