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I Forge Iron


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About tinkertim

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Bristol, England
  • Interests
    Electronics, Mechanics, Robotics, KnifeForging, reverse-engineering.

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  1. Hi Quiteman, Your pictures are all soft focus, so it is very hard to see much detail in them, to enable us to help much. ie. I cannot tell if the surface of your wool is coated or not! Also they are enormous in size, which will raise comments, as many people who use this site do so over very limited bandwidth, and enormous photos and videos are heavily frowned-upon. If you post up sharper, but smaller photos, with maybe a few close-ups, so we can see the details of your forge setup, then we are likely to be able to offer you better advice. So some further questions for you:
  2. Don't worry about it AFB, you don't need the pry-bar matey! But what you know about is hot NA burners! Your burner designs and mini-forges are epic!!! I still want to make a 1/2" hand-held one for local heating. I'm going to try and CAD up something along the lines of your V46, just to see if I can handle the merging of complex compound curves in the free CAD package I use. It will only be for short-time-use, so I'll probably print it in PLA and use 1/2" stainless for the mixer as it is less conductive than malleable iron. Funnily enough, I recently moved to the depart
  3. Hi AFB, These dimensions don't feel like a long and narrow forge, which is what I thought Greebe was concerned about. Maybe Frosty can confirm what his intended meaning was, when he pops by. Tink!
  4. Hi Greebe, I think it's a slight punctuation hiccup that is making it confusing. Breaking it down into: "That shape should be fine" because your dimensions are quite sensible. "It's long and narrow that makes even heat difficult" which is a separate statement that doesn't apply to your dimensions. Does that help? Tink!
  5. Hi Big Fudge, Welcome to IFI. Your going to have to help us help you. For a start, we need way more info: 1. Where are you in the world? (add your location in your profile, as the advice you are given can be dependant on the laws, materials, etc. where you live). 2. As getting a Forge and Burner to work in harmony is about the right balance of so many variables, we need detailed descriptions of your Forge construction. eg. internal dimensions, insulation materials, lining materials, size of openings, etc. We also need detailed info about your burner. eg. size and length of mix
  6. Hi Eridanus21, I would suggest that you remove the metal flare fitting at the end of your burner, and shape a flare in the castable refractory, as show below in a modified diagram. This will stop your metal flare from melting off the end of your burner under high-heat conditions. Sorry for the hack in "paint" but it was the best I could do. Hope it helps. Tink!
  7. I used a mop bucket for my latest forge, and with a NA ribbon burner and the option of a raised floor, it works really well for me! Tink!
  8. Hi Travis, The bell reducer (or Flare as it is commonly known as on iforgeiron) is a widened section of piping, fitted after the mixing tube, to allow the Fuel/Air Mix (FAM) to slow down and burn, without having the flame blow off the end of the burner. Outside of a forge, the metal Flare can get plenty orange when the burner is turned up, but can radiate some of that heat away, so that the Flare doesn't actually melt under normal circumstances. Inside a forge, the heat builds up and is reflected back into the forge, where it can reach temperatures that will melt a metal Flare,
  9. Cheers Matey, I like to explain the reasons behind suggestions and advice, and not assume knowledge too much. I've spent too many years explaining techy designs to non-technical managers and new-starters, that I automatically give the full name for things and show the abbreviation, before then using that abbreviation in the rest of the text. Nerdy habits from an old design engineer. Tink!
  10. Hi Hotplot, Did you remember to "butter" (that is dampen down with a spray of water) the rigidised blanket before you applied the refractory? If not, then the dry blanket will suck out too much moisture from the refractory, and prevent it from binding properly to the blanket. Tink!
  11. Hiya Miki, The fumed Silica, when you mix a spoonful into a squirty bottle half full of water and a few drops of food colouring, gives you your blanket rigidiser. It worked really well for me. If you have already already coated your blanket with Castolite/Refractory then you don't need the rigidiser any more. As far as the Zircopax coating on the inside of your forge, if there is no binding agent mixed in with it, then it will flake off, and anything you paint over the top will come off as well. The best thing to do is sand or wire-brush the inside of your forge to remove as much
  12. Go get some sleep Mikey! I thought I was a bad insomniac! Tink!
  13. Hi Miki, As I posted on page 2 above (and page1), you need the Zircopax for the IR flame face and the Morisol X30 (Colloidal Silica) as the binder, so that it sticks to the lining and minimises flake-off. Without the Colloidal Silica or some other binding agent, the Zircopax will flake away with the slightest touch or breath of flame. The Morisol X30 I got from Ulster Ceramics, so should be easy for you. Give it a try. Tink!
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