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I Forge Iron


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About tinkertim

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Bristol, England
  • Interests
    Electronics, Mechanics, Robotics, KnifeForging, reverse-engineering.

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  1. That's a really cool story Frosty! Thanks for sharing. Tink!
  2. Hi Tom, I don't think you can compare PSI for a Venturi setup and a Forced-Air setup, as you will have different sized Gas orifices, so Apples Vs Oranges. It is more down to the Fuel/Air ratio in your Fuel/Air Mix (FAM) and the volume of FAM you can combust within your forge per unit time (eg. per Second). The more volume of FAM you have combusting per second, the more heat you will generate (within the limits of Propane combustion parameters). Tink!
  3. I have to agree with Buzz. I converted my single-port burner to a Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner (NARB), and used it in the same forge with the same jet size, etc. so comparing like with like. I found I could maintain the same heat at a lower PSI, and with a much more even heat throughout the forge and less dragon's breath. The many smaller flames are aimed across the roof of my forge and swirl round onto the floor, making the whole of the inside an even hot temperature. The burner is also much quieter in use and uses less gas. With all the positives for me, I'll never go back t
  4. It's Funny Dan, It's pretty easy to get Colloidal Silica in the UK, but a pain to have to import Kastolite30 from the States, yet you have the problem the other way round! Ho-Hum! It's a weird world we live in, and people just have to find out what works for them. Re. a CNC mill. This has been on my Tinks-Toys list for so long now! Very jealous! Tink!
  5. Good to hear from you Dan. Hope all is well with you. Re. The honeycomb. That's a real shame, but you've got some pre-failure info which is good. I remember these sorts of honeycomb on portable gas heaters, where it seemed that the front face would glow orange and appeared to radiate as much as the flame (you could turn off the flame and feel how much heat was still coming off the honeycomb). I agree that if we could find high-temp honeycomb it would be the "Holy Grail" of NARB development! I'll keep watching your experiments with keen interest. On another note, I've been gett
  6. This looks really cool Dan! I'm keen to see how well it works at max-heat. If it will comfortably reach welding heat, then I may modify my NARB setup as well. I've just done some hunting, and using Ceramic Honeycomb search keywords, managed to find the same ceramic elements as you on Amazon.uk for around £12, so cheap enough to play with. Good to see you posting again. All the best matey, Tink!
  7. Hi Quiteman, Your pictures are all soft focus, so it is very hard to see much detail in them, to enable us to help much. ie. I cannot tell if the surface of your wool is coated or not! Also they are enormous in size, which will raise comments, as many people who use this site do so over very limited bandwidth, and enormous photos and videos are heavily frowned-upon. If you post up sharper, but smaller photos, with maybe a few close-ups, so we can see the details of your forge setup, then we are likely to be able to offer you better advice. So some further questions for you:
  8. Don't worry about it AFB, you don't need the pry-bar matey! But what you know about is hot NA burners! Your burner designs and mini-forges are epic!!! I still want to make a 1/2" hand-held one for local heating. I'm going to try and CAD up something along the lines of your V46, just to see if I can handle the merging of complex compound curves in the free CAD package I use. It will only be for short-time-use, so I'll probably print it in PLA and use 1/2" stainless for the mixer as it is less conductive than malleable iron. Funnily enough, I recently moved to the depart
  9. Hi AFB, These dimensions don't feel like a long and narrow forge, which is what I thought Greebe was concerned about. Maybe Frosty can confirm what his intended meaning was, when he pops by. Tink!
  10. Hi Greebe, I think it's a slight punctuation hiccup that is making it confusing. Breaking it down into: "That shape should be fine" because your dimensions are quite sensible. "It's long and narrow that makes even heat difficult" which is a separate statement that doesn't apply to your dimensions. Does that help? Tink!
  11. Hi Big Fudge, Welcome to IFI. Your going to have to help us help you. For a start, we need way more info: 1. Where are you in the world? (add your location in your profile, as the advice you are given can be dependant on the laws, materials, etc. where you live). 2. As getting a Forge and Burner to work in harmony is about the right balance of so many variables, we need detailed descriptions of your Forge construction. eg. internal dimensions, insulation materials, lining materials, size of openings, etc. We also need detailed info about your burner. eg. size and length of mix
  12. Hi Eridanus21, I would suggest that you remove the metal flare fitting at the end of your burner, and shape a flare in the castable refractory, as show below in a modified diagram. This will stop your metal flare from melting off the end of your burner under high-heat conditions. Sorry for the hack in "paint" but it was the best I could do. Hope it helps. Tink!
  13. I used a mop bucket for my latest forge, and with a NA ribbon burner and the option of a raised floor, it works really well for me! Tink!
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