Naroe Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 It's a 1/2 inch burner but it came with the 6" pipe. Which is why I replaced both the end and the pipe. So according to the 8x rule 4" should be a good size! I wasn't making too many random changes just for the sake of changing things hah When I run it again I will definitely do as you say and monitor and make notes for when it runs well! Only making small adjustments each time. I really appreciate your help/thoughts Frosty! Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter B Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Quote Just tried my forge. Been building it for awhile and I wish I knew about this forum before I started. The burners worked fine when clamped to the vise but not so much now that they are in the forge. Scaring the hell out of me actually. Sputtering a lot, flame going back up the tube.So far all bad, but I am going to keep plugging away at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Peter B - Read up on burners (Burners 101 sticky) and forges (Forges 101 sticky). Start a new thread with pictures of your forge and burner and the problems you're having and ask the questions you need answers to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter B Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Keep in mind this is the first forge I have ever seen up close and I am sure the design is lacking but it does work so now the tweking starts. Just hope I don't blow up my shop before I get it right. Any and all constructive criticism and it advice welcome. IMG_0333.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 What is it supposed to do? For most of my work it would be a terrible terrible gas hog spending tons more money on propane than needed. However I don't know what you need it to do and so the extra running cost might be part of your plan. What type of refractory are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 First off, I'd start a new thread focused on this forge, rather than tack on to this old thread. Second, I'd close down those two big holes in the ends of the forge, you're losing all your heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 You're welcome Nathan, keep us in the loop as you go please. Not to be argumentative but think its fine this thread, it's about tuning burners with a specific symptom. It's close enough to be on topic. Sure a separate thread might be more concentrated on this ONE issue but I feel it's fine here. The burn and issues change as a burner or system of burners change so trying to limit a topic by one symptom or burner type can create more rather than less confusion. Of course it's not my thread I'll keep track where ever it goes. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter B Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Not the best picture but the ends have slots that are 1 brick high so two side by side will close both the front and the back. The forge size will take a standing brick so I can put one brick on end between either the front burner and the second, or the second and third burners, gives me the option to use 1, 2 or all 3 burners depending on what I am working with. My first experience with any forge so just winging it but I think I have covered most of the bases. The bricks are just fire bricks that I found on Kijiji so not sure what the rating is. I put 1" ceramic wool between the brick and the steel. Thinking I may have to replace the burners with something smaller if I can't tune these better.Loving the input gents. Much appriciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Hard or soft bricks? Forges are a heat balance: Heat in vs Heat out. I'll leave the burner boffins to address the burners, I was concerned at how much heat it was taking to warm the bricks and how much they conduct out of the forge. Industrial forges are often lined with a hard but not very insulative brick as down time for replacing worn out soft brick is a major problem and they are often run continuously so heat up and cool down times are not such an issue and heat transfer to the workpieces is enhanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter B Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 They are hard bricks. 1" thick, 9" X 5". I have seen them in Home Hardware but not sure what the rating is on them. I think with the ceramic wool between the brick and the outside they should be OK. At least I hope so, as I say, I am winging this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter B Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 On 3/16/2017 at 4:56 PM, Frosty said: You're welcome Nathan, keep us in the loop as you go please. Not to be argumentative but think its fine this thread, it's about tuning burners with a specific symptom. It's close enough to be on topic. Sure a separate thread might be more concentrated on this ONE issue but I feel it's fine here. The burn and issues change as a burner or system of burners change so trying to limit a topic by one symptom or burner type can create more rather than less confusion. Of course it's not my thread I'll keep track where ever it goes. Frosty The Lucky. Quick question Frosty. I have seen a formula for burners that has a tube size to length from end of tube to the tip. I am guessing the tube size is not the flare end but the actual inside pipe measurement, and the length of the tube would be measured from the mig tip to the actual end of the pipe NOT including the flare. Is this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Close. The actual measurement is from the "throat" the narrowest part of the tube after the air intakes to the end of the tube. The flare doesn't count, no. According to the original rules of thumb the jet should be .5 x the throat dia. back from the throat. So, for a 3/4" tube the jet "should" be back 3/8" from the throat. This ratio is evidently true for linear or ejector types. I've found the ratios are accurate for commercial induction devices but home builds are full of variables that effect the original ratios so jet's in home builds range from WAY back to IN the throat. I tune a burner by moving the jet in or out from the throat. The farther back the leaner the air fuel mix. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter B Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Thanks Frosty. Will try that on my next day off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKKATT Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 The forge burner nozzle that you use is there a link or can you tell where you bought it , I’m searching the Internet for them and cannot locate for purchase. the brass fitting with the 1 mm hole, it fits inside the Venturi burner head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Welcome aboard BLKKATT, glad to have you. The post you're replying to is 5 years old and we were discussing home built burners. How about posting a pic of your burner so we can help. If you want to build a T burner I explained how to select brass fittings because new manufacturers aren't consistent enough to count on the through hole being close enough to tap. Link below. Frosty The Lucky. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43976-t-burner-illustrated-directions/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Welcome from the Ozark mountains. Posting links to commercial sites is not allowed (forum rules ya know). However just putting in the name of the co. is allowed, that way a quick Google or what ever search engine one uses to search will turn them up. Or a link could be sent via a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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