February 18, 20224 yr To start, I just want to thank everyone on here who helps out. It's taken me a while to get here, and I have tried my best to read as much on the forum as I can on Frosty's burners. Tonight was the first night trying them out, and they work! There are a few disclaimers I would like to get out of the way. In the video and photos below, reducers are attached to the burners, but I plan to use stainless couplers on my final product (photo of this attached as well). I was dying to test them out, and accept and understand their behavior outside of a forge is going to be different than when they're inside. I deviated from the design by adding the needle valves and other associated hardware, but I plan to have a movable wall inside my forge in the event I only want to use one burner, and I wanted to be able to shut one off at a time. In hindsight, I'm thinking I should have copper tubing going from each burner to the needle valves a little further away, so that may change. Video: I have not tuned these at all, the mig tips are unfiled. All of this being said, I have also attached a schematic I believe I stole off of here, mainly to ask if this is a good burner angle. I'm planning to have a flat floor in my forge, which feathers into the walls. I'm going to line the chamber with 2" kaowool, rigidize it, and then cast 1/2" of kast o lite over top. Kiln wash to finish it off. Let me know if you think there's something I can improve upon in my design. Thank you again to everyone, it has been fun to put this together, and I can't wait to start getting things hot.
February 18, 20224 yr The burner angles and proposed position are fine. The far burner in your photos and video is running fine too. However, the forward burner needs help. I think you'll find that a little bending of the soft copper MIG contact tip, will cure its ills. At present the gas stream isn't aimed parallel the the mixing tube's axis.
February 18, 20224 yr Author 1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said: I think you'll find that a little bending of the soft copper MIG contact tip, will cure its ills. At present the gas stream isn't aimed parallel the the mixing tube's axis. I thought as much on that burner. I'll give that a shot, thank you.
February 18, 20224 yr You might also want to rotate each T-piece by 90* so that there is less possibility of one burner's intake airflow affecting the other. Having them in line and close together has affected other peoples setups in the past. Just my 0.02 worth. Looking good. Tink!
February 18, 20224 yr Author 33 minutes ago, tinkertim said: You might also want to rotate each T-piece by 90* so that there is less possibility of one burner's intake airflow affecting the other. Having them in line and close together has affected other peoples setups in the past. Gotcha, I wondered if that might be an issue. I'll try rotating, see if it changes the flame's pattern, and then try adjusting the mig tips if needed. Thank you!
February 18, 20224 yr Only the one tip; as to the other burner, it's better to "leave well enough alone." The flame photo only proved what the photo of the MIG tip (as seen through an air opening) predicted. For, the gas assembly is placed in a hole that is drilled off center. On top of that, the MIG tip is slanted out of parallel to the mixing tube's axis. This is actually a fortunate set of errors, because otherwise, bending the tip A LITTLE BIT, would not so easily adjust the gas stream down the center of the mixing tube. So, bend the tip just a little bit to correct the error, then check the flame, before bending just a little bit more, if needed. And did a mention to be sure and bend it only a tiny little bit? BTY, love your choice of needle valves. We just can't be to picky about needle valves. When you get the problem burner improved, don't expect it to be perfect. Good enough is good enough. Just be sure that it is placed toward the rear of your forge, so that any unburned gas most pass by the other burner before exiting the forge; that should do nicely.
February 20, 20224 yr Nice job, the only issues I see have been addressed. I've become convince we don't need 1/2" of Kastolite for the flame face in forges, except MAYBE the floor if you have a heavy handed friend. 3/8" is I believe more than thick enough. Well done. Frosty The Lucky.
February 21, 20224 yr Author On 2/20/2022 at 3:53 PM, Frosty said: I've become convince we don't need 1/2" of Kastolite for the flame face in forges, except MAYBE the floor if you have a heavy handed friend. 3/8" is I believe more than thick enough. Thank you! I'll give that a shot tomorrow, going to do the refractory in the morning. Lining the chamber with the kaowool went smoother than I thought, and the rigidizer seems to have set up pretty quickly. Letting it continue to dry overnight just to make sure I get as much moisture out as possible.
February 21, 20224 yr Kastolite does NOT dry, it sets and cures in the same way Portland cement concrete does. Once it has set it needs a 100% humidity cure period for full strength and temperature rating. The manufacturer recommended 7 days at 100% humidity but one day is plenty for our purposes. We aren't relining a commercial furnace after all. If it hasn't been more than a day or two since you applied the Kastolite close it up in a plastic bag with a sopping wet towel and leave it sealed up for a day or two. Kastolite isn't terribly sensitive and we really don't need max strength. Frosty The Lucky.
February 22, 20224 yr Author Gotcha, I will keep that in mind tomorrow and as it cures. I'll bag it as soon as I'm done. The wet towel is a good idea, thank you for that. Edited February 22, 20224 yr by Mod30 Remove excessive quote.
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