swedefiddle

Members
  • Content Count

    1,692
  • Joined

  • Last visited

3 Followers

About swedefiddle

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Victoria, B.C. Canada
  • Interests
    CanIRON. I have been to every CanIRON event (except Quebec) and I co-ordinated CanIRON VI & XI.
    I have a very bad habit of racing automobiles on frozen lakes, 5 time BC champion, 3 Canadian Championships, 2 World Challenge championships. I'm just a beginner.

Converted

  • Location
    Victoria, B.C. Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Good Morning, It looks like an old Logging Wedge, Falling Wedge. It could be made from anything that was handy. It will have lots of tiny cracks in the striking end. Any of the curled edge can become a projectile and cause HUGE health risk. Neil
  2. Manometers come in different heights and bore size. 1.25 bore would need lots of pressure to move the water. You can use a semi-clear garden hose. The same as you can use a garden hose for a level. 50 foot garden hose is a very long level, water will balance at level. Neil
  3. Good Morning, Take your pencil and a compass, on a piece of cardboard or plywood. draw half a circle, draw 2 vertical lines from each leg of the semi-circle, parallel. Support your hose on each side of the vertical lines. put water inside the hose, when the water balances at the same height, that is your zero. lay out your increment marks. One end of the hose is open to atmosphere, the other end goes to a small nipple that is threaded into the side of your Air Pipe. If you can't figure this out, look up U-shaped Manometer with Miss Google. Neil
  4. Good Morning Chris, Make a U-bend Manometer with a piece of clear/semi clear plastic hose. One end is open to atmosphere, one end connected to your Air intake plenum (between the blower and the burner). Lay out a cardboard scale, 1" increments. +1" etc. and -1" etc. 10" up and 10" down equals 20" differential pressure/vacuum. Use water, specific gravity is 1.00. I use these kind of Manometers on my Cylinder Head Flow Bench, when I need an unknown amount of pressure/vacuum reading. Use water because you don't have to worry about spillage (not that you would make a mess. LOL). Neil
  5. Good Morning Chris, Vise-Grips work well, they don't slip. There are many manufactures who try to copy Vise-Grips, few succeed. When you are not in control of your work piece, YOU are not in control. There is no 'Rule Book', so you don't have to worry about breaking a Rule!! Weld 2 pieces of angle bar onto the end of the tongs you have, you now will have 'V-grip Tongs'. Cut or forge sideways grooves in the angle bar, you can now hold something sideways. Don't think hard, just think. Who created the box that you are trapped thinking in? Walk slowly and pay attention to what you are seeing and doing. Watch which way the material is moving and change your motions so the material will go where you want it to. Enjoy the Journey, there is no finite destination!! Neil
  6. Good Morning KD, With the two Pritchel Holes, is that a Henry Wright? Not many had that feature, unless someone got loose with a Drill. Don't take the conversation serious. There are quite a few who ask a similar question. We can't see inside your meaning, unless you express yourself. It is worth exactly what you think it should be worth. If you think it is worth less and someone is asking more, at that point, it is not worth what they are asking. Price is always a fluid point. That Anvil looks to be in quite good shape, it is worth more than some of the broken, beat up specimens we see here. Asking price is never the end price. Looking at an Anvil and playing the, 'That is all that I have' and laying the money down on top of the Anvil. Be prepared to walk away if they are firm on a figure that is too much. You may accidently have a few extra bills tucked away in your car. "I'll have to see if I can find some more". Neil
  7. Good Morning, A funny thing happens. First you start with a 36 grit +/-, then a 120, etc. After you have used and worn a 120 or 180, you have a 240+/-. Buy more Coarse Belts, you will soon have higher grade belts by using the coarse belts first.
  8. Good Morning, Frosty has a proven, simple burner. There are plans right here. Mike has tons of experience with Propane, even has a book on Forge Burners. All the material you think you need, ask before you buy it. The knowledge base here is HUGE!! Sometimes a little humour gets mixed in with a serious question, sometimes the humour takes it to a complete different place. If you are starting with a 2 burner design, turn one burner off. Start simple, adjust air (I use a gate valve in the air flow), adjust propane regulator pressure, adjust Forge openings. Too many burners will make the propane bottle freeze sooner. Use 2 or 3 propane bottles is parallel to stop the freezing. Put the bottles in big buckets of water, so the water acts as a heat sink and the bottles won't freeze solid very fast. This is a problem with the draw of the propane gas from the surface area of the liquid, inside the bottle. Stay safe, play hard, wear your safety gear. You don't get another chance at Eyes or Ears. Use the gray matter you were born with!! Neil
  9. Good Morning, Welsh At the very bottom of this page, there is a listing of some of the Blacksmith Association in North Hamerica. Look for a group that is near you and then you can get some 'Real, Hands-On' Help. Yes the computor is nice, but there are other choices, close at hand. It is better to start small, with a smaller one burner Forge. Start with a proven design, you are not the first to walk this rope. Every one of us has started, at some point. Good Luck, Neil
  10. Good Morning Duck, From here, it looks like big fish-mouth cracks in your pien. If you don't have a Press or a Big Hammer, you are better off using a saw to cut your bevels. You will now have to use a saw to cut the cracks out of the end. Tire Hammer doesn't have much Oomph to force the effort to the center of your material. Good Luck. Neil
  11. Good Morning Jimmy Welcome to this site. Please post your area in your Avatar. The language of Heat Treating; Annealing and Normalizing are the process that removes stress and strain from your piece, BEFORE you start to harden. Hardening is the process that locks the molecules together to form a VERY BRITTLE work piece, brittle like Glass. Tempering is the process of heating your piece to a much lower heat (than what you hardened it at), the tempering process takes the brittleness out and puts toughness into your work piece. If you are not satisfied with your Heat Treat Results, you can start over, from the beginning. Annealing, Hardening and Tempering. It is VERY IMPORTANT to Temper you work piece as soon after Hardening as possible. Some Steels will not Harden. There are no Heat Treat Police!! If you use the incorrect Quench medium, your work piece may crack. If it cracks, you can throw it away and start from the beginning. Take a small piece of your work material and use it to test what Heat Treat Process works. Some Steels harden better in different types of Quench. Air Hardening, Brine Hardening, Water Hardening, Oil Hardening (the list of possibilities is too long, to post here). There are many types of Quenching Oil, there are many types of Steel, there are many different ways to Temper your work piece. Some of the best Steel comes from Sweden!! Some of the most knowledgeable Steel workers, also are in Sweden. There are some of the finest Axes, made is Sweden. Talk to any business that works with Steel, they will help you to understand. I also have many family members in Sweden. I have a very close friend who is working with the Axe Makers in Sweden. There is a group of Axe Makers, from all over Europe, that get together. There are many places to find knowledge, in Sweden. Good Luck, Neil Gustavvsson
  12. Good Morning, Logic and Box thinking are not in the same 'Rule Book'. If it can be made, it is!! If it can be written, it is!! (or knot. LOL) Neil