swedefiddle

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About swedefiddle

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    Junior Member

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  • Location
    Victoria, B.C. Canada
  • Interests
    CanIRON. I have been to every CanIRON event and I co-ordinated CanIRON VI.
    I have a very bad habit of racing automobiles on frozen lakes, 5 time BC champion, 3 Canadian Championships, 2 World Challenge championships. I'm just a beginner.

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    Victoria, B.C. Canada

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  1. Good Morning, $2300.00 is what a NEW anvil will cost. Known quality, known quantity. May even leave you change!! Enjoy the journey to Longview. It isn't that long of a drive for you. Neil
  2. GoodMorning, There are lots of partially loaded containers coming over. Talk to someone in the Shipping World and find out who you can tag a shipment with. Neil
  3. Good Morning, Put it in a tank/container of Diesel fuel. Keep a lid on to curtail evaporation. Leave is soak for a few days before trying to move the shaft. There are other penetrating fluids, but they are VERY MUCH a fire hazard. Neil
  4. Good Morning Setlab, We are trying to ask you to figure out your own system and configuration. To answer your original question, Yes it will work. You aren't understanding the Math, you just changed from 1700 rpm to1800 rpm. Increasing the rpm will increase your volume. If in fact your pump is rated for 5.47gpm at 1800 rpm, then all your calculations should be with that figure. By increasing the cylinder diameter, you will INCREASE your tonnage. Volume of a round surface is, pi x radius/squared. If your pressure from the pump and relief valve system is one pressure, that is PSI, pounds per square inch. If you increase your cylinder size, you are increasing the 'per square inch' size. Going to a larger cylinder means the ram speed will go down, but the tonnage will go up. You have to figure out your own system and make it work with your starting point, 5.47gpm @ 1800rpm. Neil
  5. Good Morning, Not trying to be a dingbat, but, the Motor and the Pump are just one piece of the puzzle. You have to do the Math to figure out what other components you will have to purchase to make it work. There are Hydraulic System books that will explain what to do and how to get there. There is not one answer. You have to figure out what you want it to work and how fast. There are many configurations. What is it you are trying to Press, walnuts, caterpillars or hot Iron. The dies of a Press suck the heat out of your work piece, if you are too slow. There is no way to make a Press do things like a Power hammer. A Power Hammer is in contact with the work piece only a fraction of a second. A Power Hammer works the surface of your work piece, a Hydraulic Press moves the work piece from the center, out (like when you squeeze a sausage with your hand). Neil
  6. Good Morning Spike, Sometimes chalk works, sometimes a Felt pen and sandpaper works. I would ask an older person in your local Hardware supplier or Tool supplier. The manufacture may be an Australian manufacture. Glenn Moon may know. There are quite a few knowledgeable folks in your Blacksmith world as well. If you can't figure it out, it doesn't matter. It still was your GrandFathers!!! Neil
  7. Good Morning, 5.47 GPM is the volume that the pump will put out at ????rpm (1700rpm?). Pressure is controlled by your Hose rating and your Pressure Relief Valve adjustment. Speed of the Ram is controlled by the diameter of your cylinder(s). Effort of your Press = the PSI of your system x the surface area of your piston(s). For faster motion = smaller piston. For more tonnage = larger piston. If you use a two stage pump, you get low pressure/high volume to take up the slack, quickly and high pressure/low volume to increase your Effort, slowly. It is all Simple Mathmatics, no complex calculations. Neil
  8. Good Morning Biker, There is no such thing as a Swage Block that will do everything. I have a few and flip them around as needed. If you are doing the same thing, a lot, you can make your own Swage Block with a scrap from under the cutting table. There is no rule that it "has to be" a certain dimension or grade of steel. There are quite a few places that cut odd shapes, which leaves behind 'odd shaped' drops. Don't create "the Box" that might curtail your imagination and vision. The Journey has no 'Time Line'. Neil
  9. Good Morning, YOU have to do the MATH to figure out what will work. Hydraulics is Mathmatics. Neil
  10. Good Morning Billy, You didn't make a mistake, you were making tongs to hold the "Inside" of a piecce of Pipe or Tubing. Those pieces should be kept so you can hang them on the "Wall of Learning", look back in 10 years or so and smile!!!! Or, use them for what you intended for them to work. Perspective, Perspective, Perspective, No Mistakes, just unforseen conclusions!!! Neil
  11. Good Morning Crew, There is no such thing as 'Cheating'. It is just different approaches to get the final Product. Tom Clark showed us that drilling 3, 1/4" holes where you want the 'Handle Hole' stops the punch and drift from wandering. K.I.S.S Neil
  12. Good Morning Rick, In your above picture of your Forge, the firebox is no where near hot enough to weld. Work on getting it hotter, not trying to weld when it is too cold. Neil
  13. Good Morning, Talk to a local Contractor, make your money back and still have lots to play with. Typically Breaker Bits are 1050-1060, not "High Carbon Steel". No problem using water quench when Heat Treating. The drill rod is generally a poor choice for making Tools, makes poor Pry Bars, breaking when under a load. Neil
  14. Good Morning, Go to an Ontario Artist Blacksmith Association meeting. Any of their members will tell you where to purchase what you need, locally. If you can't find their web-site, PM me and I will send you the information. Neil