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Found 32 results

  1. Hi fellas, I'm looking for some advice on how to protect & finish the weldment areas on a 48"x24"x3/4" mild steel plate table. (see photos) There was quite an impressive layer of mill scale on the 3/4" plate to grind off. After MIG welding 2x2 and 4x4 square tube to the plate I now am concerned with protecting these areas from rust. I do not want the raw steel susceptible to rust while I figure out a solution so for now I have coated with a blend of 50/50 BLO/Turp. I am not a fan of the unfinished raw look, aesthetically I would prefer to darken the grind areas, so the one time in my life someone bends down and looks under the hood they won't laugh. This being my first fabrication table build I was hoping for advice on techniques. I have access to an oxy-fuel torch for heat, but my concern with the 3/4" plate is that I will never be able to get it hot enough in a reasonable time/cost. I've read (on this forum) the idea of shoe polish. My questions would be: If I do nothing to these areas what will happen over time? Is the 50/50 BLO/Turp a "good enough" solution over time? Black shoe polish? Is there a better trick here on how to finish this bottom area of the table? It won't be seen directly so my primary concern is rust protection. Thanks and cheers.
  2. This was filmed way back in May just after I made the tomahawk mandrel video.. I haven't been feeling inspired to produce videos so this video has minimal edits. 1 to be exact. Been to busy with other things. I left in all the mistakes. which I usually do. It's part of the fun.
  3. I was given the task of fabricating a trailing shield in order to weld titanium pipe, but i came across a road block. I am planning on using steel wool in the trailing shield to spread the argon as i weld. The problem is I can't use regular steel wool because is will contaminate the Titanium. I have looked for stainless steel wool in local stores but have had no luck. Is there any other material I can use that will be safe to use and won't cause contamination?
  4. Hello, all, I was reading a post on a welding forum where a guy needed to make a custom wrench for a specific application, so he ended up welding a socket onto the end of a combination wrench. In his photo, you could see the Heat Affected Zone near the weld (on the right-hand side of the wrench in the photo), which made me wonder whether the heat would have removed the hardening/tempering of the steel in the HAZ, and made the steel there weaker, by annealing or normalizing it. (I'm not sure you'll be able to view the photo without registering at the other forum, so I've attached it below in the belief that its creator would not mind me doing so.) I have chrome-vanadium steel wrenches at home that feel like they've been heated/quenched/tempered, because they seem to have a "springy" quality, but it may be that they feel that way simply because of the characteristics of the alloy steel they were made from, rather than because they were hardened and tempered. So: Does anyone know whether wrenches made of chrome-vanadium steel are typically hardened and tempered? If so, does that mean welding on them would "weaken" the steel by normalizing/annealing it? If so, should the welder have re-hardened and re-tempered the wrench after welding it? If so, does anyone have any idea of what temperature would be appropriate to temper the steel after quenching it? Thanks in advance for any replies. P.S. For the purposes of this discussion, please ignore the issues of cracking caused by carbon migration in the weld puddle and finished weldment, preheat and postheat to avoid cracking, and the use of specialized fillers such as ER310 (25% Cr - 20% Ni) to improve ductility and reduce the chances of cracking in the weldment.
  5. Saturday morning after many months of searching I found this old fatter. I paid it just 1€ and the face was quite good but the botttom was badly mushroomed. I started grinding it but I discovered that there is a crack... it doesn't seem too serious anyway. what should I do? weld the crack and grind it again to close it?
  6. So, I'm writing a paper for my English class, and I decided to write about two things I have a passion for. My question is which version of metal work is better? Who here would take blacksmithing over welding and vice versa. Why do you choose one over the other? I'd love all of your opinions and I can't wait to hear from you all.
  7. I've been practicing making flat forgewelded rings out of 1"x1/4" stock, and the forgewelding part is easy. The hard part is actually making them round instead of oval or square. I've tried to round them out on my horn but it seems like I'm expending a lot of energy on a substandard result. Is there an easy way to make flat rings or do I just need to 'git gud'?
  8. I have 2 machines that I have been eyeballing Pro-Grade Ultra-Portable 100-Amp Electric Arc Welder - 110V , from amazon 270-amp-arc-welder Chicago Electric, from Harbor Freight Are these welders reasonable for my price range (200$ max) What is the difference between ac dc and dc+ Anyone know a good helmet?
  9. I just finished and installed this railing its 14 ft long in 3 sections took me 100 hours from start to install. The customer wanted a thicket of branches that looked real and had no 4" holes so the railing would meet code. It was hand sanded and waxed. I had to weld and grind over 150 "nublets" (cut off branches) the railing took 400 feet of round rod ranging from 1 1/4" down to 3/8" I was very happy to finish the railing and move on to some thing else but I got a call the day before install and another customer saw my web site and ordered 43' of this railing. I changed the design a bit but it will take about 300 hours for the next job............ not the most technical work but it is an art form and it takes time to put it all together fitting each branch properly.
  10. A couple months ago, I watched the Peter Ross video on making a wood worker's compass (divider). This is my first pair. I made these for my neighbor and he will finish doing the filing work on them. I thought they turned out really nice. Also, this was my first attempt at fire welding and I was very pleased with how it turned out. I plan on making many more pairs of these and getting good at making them. One improvement I want to try is fire welding a carbon steel bit into the tip to begin with so the tip is more durable. The one mistake I made was bending the hinge a little when I set the pin. They still work just fine though. This compass is about 6 inches long and my neighbor was thrilled to get them. He spent some time showing me how he would use them to lay out a dove tail. I had no idea how useful they were. Anyhow... super fun little project to hone your black smith super powers. Matthew D Provo, Utah
  11. CBA Sping Conference in Ferndale, CA last month. Showed up late for chain making, but got some good coaching at the welds. Bam, Bam, Bam and there's 3 links in 3/8 mild steel. At the open forges Saturday afternoon, I pulled out some long carriage bolts I'd tossed in the toolbag. Didn't realize the bolts were hi carbon till I tried to cut them for chain links. Same old guy ( it was the Old Guys Conference after all) from the chain making class helped me with that first, sparkling hot weld and then the next 3 welds went like clockwork. One link got a little burnt, lots more scale coming off the steel as I dressed the welds round on the horn. A buddy's chain tongs were a huge help too. They sound different rattling than the mild steel chain. Great fun!
  12. This “bar light” was designed for a custom space and had a few key design elements that had to be achieved for the customer. 1) Had to light the bar, grill, counter,sink area well enough for a person to operate there safely. 2) No direct light can shine into the faces of people sitting around the near by fire pit. 3) Needed to be decorative but not block the view of the river that flows by the gazebo 4) Fit inside the log truss that forms the one of the 8 sides of this 40+ ft Gazebo 5) Have dragonfly’s. Original conceptual sketch. The light would actually be a piece of art that hid with in it a light. it is 14 ft across and 5.5 ft tall. Design was approved, not having a fabrication table large enough the concept is drawn out to scale on the shop floor. Next I cut the broad leaves, and Dragonfly's from 3/16" sheet metal and forge them in to shape. The 3/8 round rod that will make up the vines gets hammer textured to give it a more receptive look to the human eye. Using wire I am able to measure the length of the vines, cut and shape them to match the drawing. The pieces are then laid on the floor in their respective places. Once all of the pieces have been cut, textured, forged, and descaled I weld them all in place. I moved the piece on to a table at this point, this made it easier to finish cleaning and removing the discoloration, and scale from the forging and welding process. The piece gets a final prep, clear coated, and wired for lights. Here is the complete piece installed
  13. I'm currently building my first shop, and I need a design for a forge. I just wanted to know what you guys preferred in a forge, specific qualities, design, things to avoid etc... I use anthracite, there are no suppliers of bituminous near me. Also I go to a local trade school for welding and I can make everything from steel. So im trying to make a forge that lasts and is preferably made from steel. Thanks for the help guys!!
  14. Hi, I got this hay budden as a throw in on a package deal because of the horn damage, the face is nice, has really strong rebound i really like it I'm using now and plan on keeping it as my user but the horn is really dinged up bad and caved in like someone used a air powered chisel on it, I've been reading for the past two weeks on repairs searching this forum but most of the pictures won't open so it's hard to get a reference point, and from what I gathered my choices are to leave it alone and use something else as a horn I do have a spare anvil, take a flap disk to it or weld and as far as welding I've seen using 6010, 6013, 7014, 7018 I'm not a professional welder so that would be my last option. Please share your opinions, maybe pictures of anvils that had this problem and were repaired
  15. hello everyone, this is my final year at my studies in BA Fine Arts working with metal started from my desire to do a model of an abandoned factory that i used to paint. this has now advanced into blacksmithing and it is a very enjoyable experience with surprises on every corner. This year was my best work so far, i added wax to my materials which blends very well with metal. my inspiration for this project originated from visiting the Red Light District in Amsterdam which provided me with a very unpleasant feeling which has led to these sculptures. I don't want to say much as in order to leave you make your own thoughts about what you see. thanks for all the help from this forum and let me know of what you think. photos By Alexandros Hadjicostas. Andreas Santis
  16. I am trying to make a morning star. I have hand foreged a bunch of spikes and am now trying to weld them to a steel shotput. My first few tries have ended with verry flimsy spikes so I was wanting some idea on how to weld these spikes to the 8 lb hunk of metal and have them stay on solidly. Any advice would be appreciated.
  17. hi am just a beginning blacksmith about 4 yrs exp making knives and other small work in my garage. any way i am planning on building my first treadle hammer this winter and i was wondering what alloys you all would recomend. i have clay spencers plans and i like the desighn for it's small footprint. important as my entire shop is 20x12 . any way the clay spencer plans just specify hot rolled steel for the hammer and anvil my question is hot rolled what? i work for a steel company that gives me a substantial discount (new stock at XXXX near the scrap price) so cost dose not scare me much. any way 1020 seems too soft a36 and 1045 are options or even 4140ht can get the high alloy stuff too but welding becomes a problem. let me know your thoughts Dave My first thought is that you need to read the ToS about language
  18. I will begin making my Power Hammer soon. I am designing everything right now. I am trying to avail using bolt on dies. This is what I came up with. Basically, a piece of (1.5''?) Hex Bar cut into quarters, and welded into a configuration which would make both male and female dovetails. The Male end will be two pieces of the hex, with a plate on top, to the plate the 4140 for the dies steel will be welded. 1) Hex Bar 2) Cut in Half 3)Cut in Quarters 4)Weld to plate 5) Gussets welded to strengthen the dovetails 6)Drawing of Female Half 7)Drawing of Male End Please let me know what you guys think, and concerns, if it will at all work, ect.
  19. This piece comes from a sketch I drew up in the 2011/12 winter. I modified the look to be thin and tall, I just felt like it would look better. All of the iron was forged from 2” x ¼” bar stock, with exception of the cattail stems (1/4” round rod). The frame is textured with “hit & miss” texture, I ran past the confines of the frame because I wanted to add depth to the piece and life. Living things don’t care about the boarders or bounds that you might want them to live with in-they grow were the sun draws them. Adding the dragonflies really brought the piece together and made all aspects of it pop. This piece is all hand forged, and textured, it solid iron, and finished with beeswax. It measures 40” tall and 14”wide. Thanks for looking!!!!
  20. I recently completed another artistic welding class at the local community college and thought it was time to show the results. I'm still working on the fish, I want to grind the fins to make them more life like. The heron will be an outside lawn art piece and I'm going to try my luck at airbrush painting on it. Thanks for looking. Kent.
  21. Compiled by Adam Ford COMPARISON BORAX followed by BORIC ACID FORMULA Na2B4O7·10H2O H3BO3 MOLAR MASS 381.37 g/mol 61.83 g/mol MELTING POINT 1,369°F (743°C) 339.6°F (170.9°C) BOILING POINT 2,867°F (1,575°C) 572°F (300°C) DENSITY 1.73 g/cm³ 1.44 g/cm³ SOLUBILITY Water Water IUPAC ID Sodium tetraborate decahydrate (so-dee-um tet-ra-bo-rate dec-a-hi-drate) Trihydroxidoboron, Boric acid (tri-hy-drox-ide-o-bo-ron) DIFFERENCES BORAX followed by BORIC ACID Differences FORMULA Na2B4O7·10H2O H3BO3 BORAX much more complex MOLAR MASS 381.37 g/mol 61.83 g/mol Difference 319.54 g/mol MELTING POINT 1,369°F (743°C) 339.6°F (170.9°C) Difference 1029.4°F (554.111°C) BOILING POINT 2,867°F (1,575°C) 572°F (300°C) Difference 2295°F (1257.222°C) DENSITY 1.73 g/cm³ 1.44 g/cm³ Difference 0.29 g/cm³ In the end, You will have to heat the metal a lot less to be able to get the metal fluxed with Boric acid. This is JUST A REFERANCE SHEET I am NOT ADVOCATING FOR ONE OR THE OTHER, THAT IS YOUR CHOICE This sheet may be used as you want. Redistribution is fine by me
  22. Hi folks, simple question to all the vets out there... Are these oxy acetylene bottles clear to own and have re-certified and filled? I think they were last certified in '03 and I am not sure about the MGI. I hope that does not mean they are rental tanks. The Acetylene tank is around 8" in diameter and around 33" tall to the center of the valve. Oxy tank is about 4 feet tall.
  23. Hey folks, Once again it is Steven. Hope yall had a wonderful weekend! Today we are going to be discussing MIG welding and the roll the MIG welder plays in the blacksmith shop. I know many smiths who are compleetly apposed to keeping any welder in their shop, I also know many who couldn't live without one. I guess it is mostly prefrence. 10 minutes on learning how to make a wire welder work or 2-3 weeks on perfecting fire welding. :P Me being me (one impatient son of a gun) I like to get things as fast and as easly as humanly possible. Here are some videos on MIG welding, and PLEASE share your opions on electrical welding VS MIG welding. This video covers MIG welding Basics
  24. Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong with fire welding the other day. I'm using a coal forge first off. So I decided I was just going fire weld two pieces of scrap to learn how, but I failed miserably. Can't even figure out how I failed. My process was as follows: Started forge (duh, lol) Got fire pot nice and deep and fully glowing (Aprox. 7-9 inch heart)(Metal is of larger size) Picked two pieces, one 8" x 3" the other about 7" x 3" Heated (first time) to glowing, my normal working heat. Failed Realized I would need much more heat, heated to nearly burnt (Where it sparks) Still failed. Added forge borax (Actually called Cherry Heat http://www.centaurforge.com/Cherry-Heat-Welding-Compound-5-lb-can/productinfo/5CHERRY/) I cleaned the metal off with a wire brush first, then applied the powder, but I admit I had now idea how to use it still failed. Decided I needed help. Can anyone help me figure out where I went wrong, or give me a run down of how you do it?
  25. Hey fellows, I just wanted to share a little project of mine. Today I forged a spoon to apply borax or sand on workpieces prior to forgewelding. Handforged out of 5/8" round mild steel. Yours - Daniel
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