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I Forge Iron


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About anvil

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  1. The bearing from a bicycle pedal works great for the bearing. They are sealed, so no maintance, and heavy duty. Beyond that, what John said.
  2. Too many moving parts. And my gut feeling is that there would not be enough force to hold your work secure. And i believe the force would not be equal across the face of the anvil. Lol, all is see is boogers and traps all around my primary workspsce.
  3. A blind tenon in iron is not hard. Drill a hole, tap with a standard tap, tap again with a bottoming tap and bottom it out. Thread a flat bottomed stud so threads dont stick above the hole, peen the stud like any ole tenon. The bottoming tap is critical. A drill bit leaves a rounded bottom. The bottoming tap cuts threads and creats a flat bottom, fully threaded hole. If you leave the rounded bottom, when you peen the head, the tenon tends to be loose in the hole. Ive used this to join some styles of door handles to the spindle(thanks, George, i had a senior moment on the word spindle
  4. Daswolf hit it on the head. No forging needed. Drill a hole the size of the diameter of the square bar. Use your drill size chart for the proper tap and die. Thread both hole and shaft. Screw together. I also drill and tap for a set screw placed in a non visible location. Ive made a lot of hardware. Often the lever is separate from the shaft that goes into the lock set. Ive often forged a square tenon on both ends of this shaft. One is rivited to the lwver and the other square goes into the lockset. Hardware like this is a good business and fun to do. EDIT: I should of re
  5. anvil

    Fish mouth

    Forge the two corners back on a diagional to create a point. You are forging down which moves the corners together making a fishmouth
  6. Differences, differences. For me, a proper shaped cross peen is flat not round. Somewhere between 5/8" and 3/4" flat with a very slightly rounded face and beveled edges. The reason this draws faster is because everything under the flat is forged to the same thickness with each blow. A half round can only bring the centerline of the draw to thickness. You must still forge it with a flat hammer even to get it to where your hsmmer can clean it up to bring it to flat. Instead of a long off topic discussion, i suggest you try both and learn the strengths and application of each. A half round fulle
  7. I use bailing wire and roll it in the direction that naturally tightens up the twist. If i did this often i'd do it the same way but do it in a half round fuller or my swage block. A tack weld on the ends works too, but i always roll it as i said above when welding it.
  8. Thats why i qualified my response. Im just a working smith, not a afficiando of anvils. Good to know ,Thomas. I had a Vulcan A&H bottom feeder for a really short time. Lol, ive been down on Arm & Hammer ever since,,, except for borax. Out of curiosity are the two A&H anvils made by the same company? Strange that they would have the same brand/logo.
  9. Id say trenton as well. No name and only a weight and a sn_# is pretty common. Altho im no expert on A&H or anvils in general, i believe they had a cast body with a raised logo.
  10. It was pretty cool. They wouldn't let us beat hot iron, but they ran the hammers and we were able to swing back and forth and beat a piece of cold iron. Swinging between the two was easy and felt natural.
  11. Thomas has the right idea. You prolly know this so consider it for others. You want volume not velocity. Assuming yout top leaf falls and you lift for the return stroke, you need to control the speed of drop. A rope attached to the top leaf going thru a pully attached to the ceiling gives you an adjustable way of controling drop. That should be all you need. If you still have too much volume than Thomas still has the correct solution. To add to the above, then use a the gate to vent air to the outside. Example/ make your slide say half inch wide and cut the end
  12. Thats a high energy poker! It will keep you going. I checked my notes and thats what i have in my notes. High carbon steels are numbered. Dont take this as gospel, its just what my notes say. My Carpenter tech book also states both cold rolled and hot milled are avalable. Without a doubt tool steels vs high carbon steels are like night and day. I have a few tools out of H13 and S7 and they are great. Im too frugal(cheap) to make most of my hand tools out of tool steels, so just dress them as needed instead. And I sell toil steel tools to clients so they get the best steels.T
  13. The water powered shop north of Prague ran continuously from around the 9th century until the mid '50's when it was shut down by the communist government. It was rural and their usual business was the blacksmirhs dream of swords to plows/plows to swords until they closed down. There were a number of hammers, perhaps 2 or 3 the size of the one in this vid, plus associated work benches. There was one pair that was pretty interesting. They ran off of one shaft,, a camshaft. One was going up and the other dropping. Inbetween was a poma lift type of seat. Think old time ski lift. You sat in
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