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I Forge Iron

anvil

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About anvil

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    Mancos,Co.

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  1. Just to add a bit, if you don't have a Bic, use the point of the horn.
  2. I'd hand file the dovetail.a triangular file with a safe edge would do it. You could even shape your triangular file to match the dovetail angle.
  3. Case hardening is as good of a guess as any. I don't think it would work, tho. Good point, JHCC. Along with that, we don't know what kind of stock it is. I'd guess it's from an axel My guess would be some sort of Super Quench. But I don't think either guess would do anything worthwhile.
  4. Like was said above on the step a wire feed or even a torch and bailing wire will work. On the face for any repairs, large or small try this. This repair technique is the gold standard https://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm Also like had been said, use it for a while and see if it's in the way before repairing.
  5. I nearly always advocate refacing using the Gunther method. Especially if you can weld and follow instructions
  6. To be clear, my morality statement was meant as a general evil we all encounter and in no way meant towards anyone here. We blacksmiths are often confronted with, as an example, someone who wants our work with no makers mark in order to resell our work for antique prices. I encountered this, again, a few years back. It still a sore topic.
  7. I have no doubts as to this process for case hardening. It is tried and true, not to mention traditional. I've used it myself for a few things, springs included. It's more what the vid implies. He implies, no, flat states, you can get penetration by extending time. Even tho this is true, it's impractible and has been so thru time. Can you imagine the amount of coal or any fuel you will use, not to mention the control to maintain a proper temp for even a few hours, much less 8? And 8 hours will only give very slight penetration of carbon. You can check it out by learning a bit about contempora
  8. "Practical Blacksmithing" by Richardson is a good possible source on how these can be made. I believe they were forged in 3 ways. Forged down from one piece, forge welded, and tenoned. I'm looking at the top and the shaft. I believe, it's been a while, these three ways are shown in Practical Blacksmithing. Drop forged and open die forging are two more ways.
  9. My grandfather was from Serbia when he was 12. Grandmother was from Croatia. They came to the US before WW1, met in Colorado in the 1920's and married. He was a coalminer. What kind of forge do you have. What kind of fuel. So, there are no garages(auto repair), general repair shops, welding shops, machine shops close? I've seen that vid before. He leaves a bit to the imagination, not to mention questions he can't answer. I'll stick to what I said. I thought that's what you meant. I call it forging on the diamond. You can forge it any way you want. It's still far eas
  10. Using rebar is a personal/esthetics choice. Use it if you like it. I don't and have none in my scrap pile, altho I do have rebar in my rebar stack for when I'm doing concrete/stone work. A long time ago I got the idea to make a set of tongs and forge weld on rebar reins. I thought it would look cool! A friend gave me his famous deadpan look and asked: "you know what you will have when you are done, don't you?" I bit and asked "what?" His response was classic: " a set of tongs with rebar reins". I thought for a minute and decided that a rebar finish was not what I wanted for my iron work.
  11. Excellent decision! However as to the legal direction this thread has taken, well I believe that a Craftsman in particular should hold the moral imperative and strive to make the "best" product possible. This includes using the highest quality material and, most important not make any shortcuts that will jeprodize the ones who uses your product. Imagine the amount of lawyers that would have no business if we all followed this personal responsibility idea.
  12. Sorry, this is confusing and I don't know what you mean. I would do it like I described Sorry, this won't work. You may mean case hardening, but this isn't the process. Case hardening is barely surface deep and the first time you sharpen your edge, it's gone.if you want an edge, you need to forge weld in a bit. Learn how to forge weld. It's a necessary tool. Basically your approach will not work and forge welding is the key. Steel is cheap and even easy to find for free. And like Charles said, punch or slit and drift the eye first. Yup, and it rarely works
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