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About anvil

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  1. Here's another approach instead of single or multiple sets of scrolling tongs, learn to turn your scroll finials over the edge of the anvil and use a scrolling wrench/bending forks in your post vice for the rest of your scroll. Depending on the scroll, I turn anywhere from 6" to a foot and a half over the edge of my anvil. The rest is at my post vice. I have no dedicated scrolling tongs and rarely use the horn. I learned to do my "scrolling" over the horn as a farrier. I.E., "turning a shoe". When I became a traditional Smith I took this skill set and moved to the edge of my anvil and post vice with scrolling wrench and bending forks. I believe you are way more flexible as to scroll shapes this way than with scrolling tongs, and with practice, there is no problem matching many pieces done this way. For what it's worth, I'm left handed and do understand,,, first hand,,, you might say,,, the benefit to proper handed tongs.
  2. Snows gone. I'll take some pics and post today along with some samples of it's usage.
  3. It appears to me that you need to get it hot. Dull red is too cold. Never forget,,, When it's red, it's dead. When it's yellow, it's mellow!
  4. Snows almost gone. I got nearly 18" of heavy wet snow. We needed it. Words are tough so I'll try again The front face is vertical and flat. This creates the vertical side in the example. The opposite side is at an angle and convex from side to side, not up to down. The cutting edge is convex These last two convex edge/surface make it easy to follow a scribed line and not make ding marks. They also make it a very nice tool to cut curved lines because the convex edge is easy to walk around. Also, if the tool is held at an angle(not vertical) you can smoothly make a varied reveal kinda like a champfer'd edge as you proceed around the curve whilst maintaining a vertical inside edge. It's a handy tool. Hope this helps.
  5. De Re Metalica It's one of the best. I'd buy it, but if you search you will find a pdf
  6. It's chiseled in. The chisel has one face flat and vertical. The opposite face is at an angle and slightly rounded. The cutting edge is slightly rounded as well in order to walk the chisel along your scribed line and not leave any dingmark's.. I'll see if I can get a pic of mine. Alas, we had a major snow yesterday, so it might be a day or so to find it.
  7. Richardson's being what Richardson's is,,, basically the great granddaddy of forums like this, I suspect if I looked, there would be another view or three on anvil edges. If the edges are mushroomed, then grind this off. As for edges, here's my view. I radius the edges from the step back an equal distance past the sweetspot, more or less. I radius from 3/8" to zero. This gives me a number of differing radius as needed. I keep the edges sharp around the heel. It has many uses from cutting wire to quick and dirty notching/marking heavier stock instead of using a Hardy tool or chisel. Just make sure you don't cut thru and strike hammer to edge! The angle between back of heel and the side, on old English style anvils is great for checking and tuning up right angle bends. It's done in the horizontal plane so an off angle and high spots are easy to see and quick to fix. And the back edge forward is great to mark distances for forging references. Here the sharp edge makes measurement a bit more precise.
  8. Thomas, you are right on with all your posts on this thread. Great and clear advice!
  9. Sounds like you have raised a good crop of catch-22's.
  10. Back to blacksmithing and your lyre gate. Apparently you did this before 2000. That shows an Incredible skillset to work to dimension and all that implies. Now you have had ~4 years of practice to regain your skills. I don't think I've ever seen one of your vids that shows the techniques and skillset used in the lyre gate. Perhaps you will consider doing a lyre gate practice piece, as if you were bidding a job. Do the lyre, the two verticals and the two horizontals that frame it. This covers all critical details. Then hang it on the wall in your new shop and see what it brings you. If it took you back then 6 weeks to do the whole thing, you could get that much done by spring. This certainly would take you out of the realm of basic blacksmithing practice type vids but would certainly be an indication as to how far your practice has taken you. If not the lyre, then how about practicing the techniques used? I know you don't like measuring and dimension work, but it would be cool to see you make say 6-36" pickets out of half square with a tenon on each end on the edge of the anvil to dimension. It's as important a skill as making 6 leaf finials. And when done, just cut the tenon's off and you still have 35" left. Other suggestions from your lyre gate would be angle tenon's or just turn the lyre scroll itself. I suggest this because there are many catch 22's to overcome to be a working traditional Smith and it appears you have already overcome quite a few. Perhaps a demo/advertising piece such as your lyre would put you in a good place to move up to major commissions than just more hardware would. Alas, it just might cut into your plans to teach. If you do it,,, it might, if you don't,, it probably won't. Not to mention the challenge to redo your lyre gate will be.
  11. acetone and atf is great. works far better than any commercial product,, and cheaper.
  12. anvil

    steel type?

    I don't know how to bookmark it for android but it is found by searching the " play store" for heat treaters guide companion. I've never seen it available for pc. There is a "heat treaters guide" from, i think, ASM. I think it's pretty expensive and contains much more info. I looked this up once upon a time. The "companion" is a synopsis, more or less of pertanent of data from the guide.
  13. Any blacksmith tongs can be resized for any size material. Just apply common sense. Lol, if your tong bits are 1" long and fit half inch stock, you prolly can't make them fit and hold 3" square.