anvil

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  1. anvil

    Notching thicker bar....

    I have 3 curved hot cuts made from rr tools that work great. However my beverly shear#3 makes short work of anything under 3/8".
  2. Excellent procedure. I rebuilt my trenton about a week befor Robb released his method. I used 7018. about 10 years ago I noticed that the weld was moving over the edge. that's the best way I can describe it. Now it needs to be redone. Some friends followed his way about the same timeand their anvils are still pristine. We all are full time smiths. here's to pounding sand,,, As for the horn, it is wrought iron so I used a torch and coat hanger to fill in and build up some holes and worn areas. then used my half round bastard file to draw file it to shape. The horn is still perfect! Now thats True Grit!
  3. I agree. here's the addy http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm And another rod that someone recomwnded that has the same characteristics but is cheaper Hobart hardalloy Hardalloy 32 base Hardalloy 58 cap Have fun
  4. And there it is. We agree! But as per Glens post, i would secure the base, not the web. Perhaps thats what you meant.Properly mounted and no flex, and a good lesson for any beginner is how to secure your anvil to the stand/stump. No daylight under the base means no flex. Build an angle iron frame to fit the base and add a good set of legs, no flex. Lol,it might walk like my farrier setup tended to do on pavement, but no flex. And never forget, all a blacksmith really needs to do anything is the ring in his ears,,,
  5. Yes, it makes a great beginners anvil. I'm no structural engineer, but I just cannot imagine,,, even a 10' piece suspended at each end and struck a blow in the middle with a 2-1/2# hammer any flexing at all. But lets accept that as being the case. Properly mounted means securly mounted to the stand or stump no matter how you hang it. Lol, it better be properly mounted if its vertical or it will fall over with the first blow. So,, how do you make a simple beginners leaf keychain on that small surface without dinging your work? I guess you could just make a really small leaf. Again, you guys, I mean no offence and I hope my attempt at humor is noted. Truly, if it works for you, that's good enough for me,, in your shop. I just do not see any benefits. Lol, in the debate on anvil size, I stood firmly that size doesn't matter. I stand corrected,,, this is too small for me.
  6. Boy! Give you guys 4or 5 more minutes in the fire and you really ought to start getting good!
  7. I did read that,, however, when properly mounted to a stump or stand rigidity can no longer can be an issue. I can picture that scenario, Referring to this pic and your comment about a beginner. How would you keep from dinging your iron on the two edges? Even with good hammer control, seems that would be a real problem with such a small surface to forge on. I can't even see where you have enough surface area to forge a leaf keychain without dinging it up. Again, I'm not argueing. And my "intro" to this configuration is due to the web these last few years. This is my first look at its possibilities. Thanks for the info. Its not for me.
  8. don't take me wrong, I have no problem with what you use as an anvil, and I would have no problem adapting to whatever you are using if I visited your shop. Besides, this is just a discussion, not one of those "this is the way" deals. So my comments were just to add another viewpoint and all from my experiences in the here and now, not across time. I do know That I just cannot see any advantage to a rr track stood on end over one properly mounted and tricked out a bit with a horn and heel. there's that "properly mounted" deal again. Its the key to using any anvil. But this in no way is meant to mean "my way or the highway!" I do know I've seen some very well modified rr track anvils with horn, heel, a full flat top and a hardy and pritchel hole. And, when well mounted to a stand/stump, were as good as any anvil i've ever seen/used. But they take time or money and tools that a new guy may not have. Well mounted is the key. From the pics here most of you vertical guys do have them well mounted! Thomas, I always enjoy your historical posts. They are well thought out and well written and pretty accurate. I always walk away with a good learning or something to think of. So, in that context, just perhaps the addition of a horn, heel, hardy and pritchel are evolutionary steps in anvil history which is far more important than labeling it a swiss army multi-tool. Many times a tool of necessity has evolved into "tradition" by the next generation or so. I too have a square block that gets much use,,, with a shank and fits my hardy hole. One for my anvil and one for my treadle hammer. And I turn most of my scrolls either over the edge and without the horn. But once the finial is complete, and the first bit, I use my scrolling wrenches and forks in my post vice excusively. So there is good arguement that a horn and heel are not a necessity. As for the square being used well into the past, there is no doubt. And, as you stated, for swords globally. However, lets look at architectural iron and its history. I'm pretty sure that anvils with horns were used back to the gothic era, 9th century. European architectural iron of that era is just too complex for a square anvil as was used by weaponsmiths. But as i stated above, perhaps not a necessity. Yet, there are some 3 dimensional leaves and finials that just are so easy over the horn! Beyond the Gothic era, I think architectural iron in europe was pretty slim. Nor was there much during the roman and greek eras. I've seen very complex looking iron from "early india", but have no clue to its age. I'm sure you will ask for sources as is correct. I have a polish smithing book that verifies this and some books from museums in Prague when I studied "Architectural History for the Blacksmith" for a month with Vaclav Jarosh in '87. He was a demonstrator at Flag in '86. Alas, my library is not avalable. Hopefully in a few months that will change. His class consisted of a day in Prague seeing iron from an art history period, starting with Gothic, then a demo where he made a representative detail and the necessary tooling. Then it was our turn to "tool up" and forge the detail. We did this from Gothic to Contemporary. I'm always interested in this and if you have sources, please let me know.
  9. Yup, you could. I picture myself, starting out, squatting down to get a good mark 1 eyeball view of the high spot, one hand over head holding the iron, and swinging the hammer in the horizontal,,, and wondering why gravity is being so difficult,,.. I do remember how hard it was learning hammer control with gravity working for me.
  10. There are prolly many of us who started wirh rr track anvils. I did. It never crossed my mind to stand it on end. i very crudely torched a horn,,, thing,, on the end and a sorta heel shape on the other.. It worked well enough to start me shoeing horses. I heard of standing it on end just a few years ago at some forums, then facebook. I didn't pay much attention. Lol, that doesn't qualify me for much of a critique,,, but,,, there's that danged ole butt,, Now, looking at the pics here and reading the posts, I agree, to an extent, with the reasons for placing it on end. But, when I look at the pics, I dont think I would go for an on end rr track anvil. What strikes me first is the loss of flat surface for forging and particularly straightening iron. The sharp edges do make me a bit worried, even if radiused. And finally, if we call this a beginners anvil, say one with trainer wheels,, id rather train on something that far closer resembles a real anvil, horn, heel, and face. I feel that working on a vertical anvil May tend to develop bad forging habits. But at least there would be no argument as to horn left or right...
  11. anvil

    Antique Bender??

    Jim, i agree, manual forks and wrenches are the best, least expensive and most versatile. ive always had trouble with the adjustable kind opening or closing when doing more than a few bends, so i make mine non adjustable. my set goes from 1\4",3\8",1\2",5\8",3|4",1", 1-1\4",1-1\2",3" they include the wrench and matching fork that fits in my post vice. the forks have a different size on each end, the wrenchs are single sized. i use them for scrolling and most straightening. i do not use them for twisting. lol, simple tools for simple folks.
  12. anvil

    My twist project

    Its a beautiful piece! I once saw a twist and a reverse twist done as a handle. But never as a basket. As I remember they were side by side. that's how I knew how to get the twists to match. I also see what you mean about how my description would end up with two differing types of twist. Lol, i also think I noticed how you solved that! I'm at the tail end of setting up my temp enclosed shop. Right now I'm set up outside and our fire danger is out of sight. your basket nearly tempted me to give it a try, then two more fires started. This basket will be the first project out of my temp space. Thanks for the the inspiration!
  13. anvil

    My twist project

    I will. Give me a few days. Lol, nothing beats a new twist!
  14. anvil

    My twist project

    Excellent! Depends on if you are a left handed smith, or right handed. I would give the inside ones a full twist clockwise, and leave the outside ones straight to start out.. Then open up a half twist counter clockwise. That should leave two half twists(180*) each in opposite directions.