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About anvil

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  1. anvil

    Large Steel Balls, Uses?

    ~Humor attempt!~ I have this vision of a class like that with 10 or 15 wild college students whooping and a hollering, huge hammers flying and beating large 1" sized iron into 1/4" submission,,, with more fire in their eyes than in their forges!!! I guess all you can do is wait for them to tire out,, then head on out the door. Lol Nope, in truth, I've never had a class, or anybody in my shop, for that matter, where they are doing something I dont feel they are qualified to handle. At least, not for long. I know you teach classes. I'm guessing you have multiple forging stations. Do you have a striking anvil at each station? And to be sure, a tool is a tool, and if you have, or see a reason for any tool, then go for it!
  2. anvil

    Large Steel Balls, Uses?

    Very cool! Are there any adjustments as to where it hits? Meaning can you do an edge to edge or half faced blow?
  3. anvil

    Large Steel Balls, Uses?

    Interesting. Do you have a pic? And is this a permanent attachment? No critique, I'm just curious. For what it's worth, both my anvil and my post vice are set up for 360 degree access. I've thought of this as a reason, but discard it. First lesson should be to NOT EVER strike an anvil with a heavy blow on the horn or heel. Second lesson is to not strike your anvil unless there is something to strike beneath the face,, especially with a heavy uncontrolled blow. And third, before they use a striking hammer, teach the proper way to strike. And for me, that's never a hard overhead uncontrolled blow. I teach this style of striking.
  4. anvil

    Building A Bellows

    An excellent how_to!. Thanks. I was unable to view your pics. I used ripstop nylon instead of leather. They worked fine. Also, I found that the action improved when I hung horse shoes on the end of the pole. I was able to add them until I got the action I needed.
  5. That is the best advice yet. With a good set of tap wrenches, your control increases exponentially. This translates to far fewer broken taps that can be a real pain in the butt to remove. This also means you can use less quality taps without their breaking.
  6. anvil

    Solid fuel forge build question

    Good to know, it sets the stage. A smithy is the shop. You need 4" of coke under your work. A y more and you are burning too much coal, any less and you are working too hard to maintain your fire. This is for a "1" shop, meaning your average material is 1" or less. You can work larger stock, but it takes a bit more time to heat your iron.
  7. anvil

    Anvil stand question?

    I'd suggest forge welding it. Then amperage becomes the least of your problems.
  8. Hey, we are traditional smiths! I suggest we keep it simple and follow the actions of our forefathers and bury it in a large pile of horse manure!
  9. anvil

    Large Steel Balls, Uses?

    Just my input. I'm not a fan of a striking anvil. For me its redundant. Thus I dont need to consider mounting it to a striking anvil. I dont believe weight in the hardy hole of an anvil is a problem as the primary use here is forming not forging. Like Thomas said, a square shank works for me. And sized for my hardy hole. And, as he said, square works fine in my post vice where I usually work it. I prefer solid stock over tubing primarily because I dont use much tubing, so it's not easy to come by in my shop. Not to mention that it's far easier to forge solid stock to fit my hardy than forging tubing. I wouldn't mount it in a race basically for JHCCs' reasons. Not to mention that shaping below the equator is pretty awkward. Height is critical. If it is a one off, it goes in the anvil. If I have quite a few pieces, a chair by the anvil works. But usually my post vice is my workspace for my ball stakes. Thus a short shank works best for me. Free standing on a long shaft with a base on the ground ad in the OP appears to me to not be stable enough, not to mention storage if you have a large section of sizes.
  10. anvil

    repurposed steel

    I believe it's always best to assume "operator error" than to blame it on preexisting conditions. Especially when just starting out. More often than not forging coil/leaf spring when it's a bit too cold, or heating it too much is the problem.
  11. Sounds like you have a lot of experience as a fabricator/welder and related fields. Great input. Thanks.
  12. Vaughn, I wouldn't touch tools from China. Not just because of current politics, but you get what you pay for. Steamboat, soapstone in a fab shop is fine. However in an architectural blacksmith shop, chalk is fine for drawings on a table, but not near as precise as what's needed for layout. When Building mortise and tenon railings, you are either right on, or you are screwed. In a fab shop, just get a bigger rod works.
  13. anvil

    Shop rebuild

    Excellent latch!
  14. anvil

    Anchorage Ak. Earthquake 2018

    Frosty, I heard you are going to be busy forge welding Alaska back together again!! Hope all is well.
  15. anvil

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Nice jingle bells!