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  1. I never have more than two at a forge, and both always on the same side.
  2. A perfect place to use a rounding hammer, and do it on the face of the anvil, not the horn. Rotate it so the offset curve is down, use a 2 point contact on the parent stock to anvil face, and use the rounding hammer to center the curve on both sides. I use this technique very consciously when drawing a taper with both lengths curved. You can also use this to get a convex curve on one side, and a concave curve on the other. If this doesn't make sense, I'll post pics when I get home.
  3. anvil

    M. Ehrgott

    Left coast,,, there went my offee!
  4. I round mine from 3/8" to zero. 3/8" at the step, and I end the taper before the hardy hole,, somewhere around where the heel begins.
  5. Excellent vid, Jen. And in my opinion the very best hot cut by far. It makes a clean straight cut and most important, is indispensable when making tenons etc. It starts the needed right angle and separates the mass for the shaft. It makes it very easy to forge the shaft without screwing up that shoulder. It also works for separating the mass for the shaft when making hardy tools.
  6. anvil

    Fuzzy Math

    dang, and i thought reading a 6' metal folding ruler to a 64th was good. I think the "th" makes it a fraction.
  7. anvil

    Camelback drillpress

    Heres a pretty good site that may help.
  8. anvil

    Temper colors and steel

    my last was meant in jest.
  9. anvil

    Temper colors and steel

    Naa, you knife guys are in an economically competitive world. And not much room between makers to show your clientèle you are The Man! So, snow them with technogeek and it works every time.
  10. anvil

    Punching round stock

    I think you dont understand the hammer part. A piece of angle will keep it from moving for each blow you make. After the first blow you will have this visual reference that you can see and use the mark 1 eyeball to rotate your work where you want it. Then hit it again with the cut where you want it. Truth be known, after the first blow, your piece will have a flat spot and you can finish it on the face of the anvil.
  11. anvil

    Half Penny scroll...

    Jen, I dont use jigs nor mechanical devices to roll my barrels., or anything else in my shop. I used his tool as an example to point out that roll'd barrels were common across time. I certainly have no idea what proportion of one vs another are. The only reason I brought this up is you implied a forged barrel was more "period". I don't accept that. But it's not worth an arguement or a debate. And yes, I've worked with many good Smith's as well as a few who were not so good. One way or another I learned from all of them. I very consciously chose to do this. I call that period of my life my contemporary version of being a journeyman smith. I can think of no better way to learn so many things about our craft. And as a bonus, it really helps in not developing techniques that are not truly good practices. If you work with little or no input from others it's far too easy to incorporate a bad habit and have no idea it's bad. Much less why its bad. Nor do I accept that Smith's of the past It's the same as today, go into a job shop and it's a daily grind, work for Whitaker etc and there is absolutely no feeling of "nothing special". Basically if you dont believe that what you do is special, no one else will. Let see if I can do a quick and dirty "how to" do a half penny scroll. I only know one way, so that a start. 1: Hang enough stock over the edge of your anvil to make a square cross section. 2: Use a half faced blow to forge down the transition to your dimension. 3: Taper the parent stock as much as you require and champfer edges if you choose. 4: Forge the square into a round. Remember, you can use your cross pen to move material out to accomplish this as well as forging it "in. The cross pen is a great way to heal those flat spots around the transition. Start here to roll the penny to get that nice vee and not a cold shut, as you mentioned above. Also, using the cross peen you can tune that critical transition where using a hammer to scroll it is too much. It can very gently move that penny just where you want it. Dang, there goes a "secret"! 5: roll it and scroll it. I do step 5 on the anvil and this is the most critical, so light blows and do only small increments. Then I do the rest with my bending forks. I made a hardy tool to start the scroll. It has a curved top, a concave area below the top and the top overhangs this and has a sharp edge. I'm sure you have seen similar. At a very frustrated time with this scroll, it helped, but after a short time i quit using it. It became easier, and gives me more control to just do it by hammer in hand. Hope this helps
  12. anvil

    Punching round stock

    Make a holding jig out of angle iron. A more complex tool would be a hardy tool with a vee groove. A round punch is, well, round, so you dont need to worry about being at a right angle to the long axis. Just punch it on the centerline.
  13. anvil

    Forging large Circles HELP

    Excellent vid. Made my whole week! And right on the mark. To be able to take what happens and make it fit is the sign of a true master!
  14. anvil

    Half Penny scroll...

    If you have Donald Streeter's book on colonial hardware, you will see a tool he copied from an early colonial piece that rolls barrels mechanically. This book is contemporary and he was a decade or more before me. He is from your part of the world. Also another big book "colonial ironwork by Sonn?" that shows many examples of rolled and forged barrels. Same in Europe. This conversation reminds me of that book. I'm unpacking, so will keep an eye out for it. It's my belief that rolled or forge welded was a choice made by the Smith to fit the situation. I started with colonial hardware, but other than an occasional barn or rustic business doo da it is not popular in my world. I then spent some time with a fine Sante Fe Smith named Tom Joyce. He lined me out on south western colonial hardware. A hot item. From there I hooked up with a custom hardware outfit in my community. I did her custom work for a long time. I did Far more than hardware for her, but hardware was the main stay. After a year or so she presented me with s job and I worked with the client and sid my own design. She introduced me to a few furniture makers. The main guy lived in Colorado Springs, but sold his work in Sante Fe. He dealt with a few galleries on a regular basis. He would send me a drawing of a period piece, supply a drop list for drawer/ door hardware, fasteners and whatever and a due date,,, after a few jobs. Good money and good experience. No room for error as any crudeness and I'd be gone. He kept us both busy. It was a very successful and creative time. Yup, half penny and snub end scrolls are tough. I still sweat bullets when I make them. It takes a lot to be able to make even one with no flat spots and a symmetrical "penny". And then to match them throughout a house full of doors is even harder. Keep it up, it takes time. No anger, dont read something Into what's not there.
  15. anvil

    Temper colors and steel

    I would say held at that temp for the proper time. And you are correct, Getting an even heat is critical. Most important, I believe that given a competent smith, and a competent knife maker and using the same type of steel, the smith with coal forge and knife maker with the best state of the art HT equipment, that when field tested, under normal usage, bla, bla, they will get dull with relatively the same amount of usage, and each will be sharpened in the same relative time. So my conclusion is that the best way to HT is the one that fascinates you the most. For me thats the traditional way backed by a laymans learning and library concerning contemporary methods and techniques. And I can see and respect that you are just as smitten by the high tech approach.