anvil

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About anvil

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  1. Lol,,, laying out a cheap metal building at the moment. Got stuff in the way and 3" roadbase to set cinder blocks in. Doing it the old guy way. Grabbed 4 shop stands and set 2" tubing on them "anvil high" and in plane to square my building. Now I can tune the gravel and dry set the block and never have to get down in the 3" bloody rocks! And no getting up and down. Happy camper,,,
  2. My twist project

    Nobody has posted a twist in a round bar,,, yet.
  3. Nice! I too noticed your centerpunch mark. Lovin' your vids!
  4. My twist project

    Hmm, Frosty, now that's a new twist if I've ever seen one...
  5. Two things. When it's yellow it's mellow,,, get it hot. Second and as counter productive as this may seem, use a lighter hammer.
  6. Templates

    Lol, what Thomas said works as well. However there are times where the math is the easiest way. Especially on a complex project with many details. And, as usual, if you know the math, and have a calculator/phone and a piece of chalk, this simple math can be done far quicker than it took me to write it up.
  7. Templates

    I'll do it with a piece of square stock and a flat taper, with the point being the same length as the parent stock. First you need a chart or info from your steel supplier. This will give you the weight of specific cross sections per Inch or foot of any steel in Pounds per cubic inch( or foot). So, we are using 1/2" square and the taper is to an edge, not a point. It is 2"long. The formula for volume is length x width x height. So 2" x 1/2" x 1/2" will give you the volume(cubic inches) of 2" of this parent stock. Now divide this in half and you will have the volume of the taper. Now go to your chart and find the pounds per cubic inch or foot and multiply this to the above. You now have the weight of your taper in pounds Cubic inches x pounds/cubic I = pounds. This is the weight of the wedge. Now you need to find the equivalent weight of parent stock(1/2" square) So back to the chart and we know the pounds per cu/in and we know the pounds of our sample. So pounds÷pounds/cu/in Will give you the volume of parent stock(1/2" square) needed to forge a 2" taper. We now have Cubic inches= length x width x height. And we know cubic inches. So length = cubic inches ÷height x width Now you know the length of parent stock needed that will give you this length of taper. Hope I didn't miss anything and it makes sense.
  8. And there it is in a nutshell. I'd add this: quality and skill go hand in hand. If your quality matches your skill level, and you continually press your skills, you will prevail.
  9. Templates

    I rarely use templates. I do however make a layout stick. Draw your s hook on your table. Then use a string line to measure it's full finished length. Do this on the centerline, not an edge. Edges either draw out or upset. The centerline will always give you the true length. Measure your tapers. Calculate the needed taper parent stock. Math works,, test pieces work,, mark 1 eyeball works. I use math primarily. Measure the length from transition to transition,,, that's the distance from between where each taper begins. Find the center of this and make a centerpunch mark. Now add twice the taper parent stock length to the above. Now you know your "start length" for your s hook. Place a centerpunch mark at the center of your unforged length(if you haven't done this) and at the beginning of each taper. Forge one end to the proper length of the taper. Turn one end to match your drawing up to the center of your bar. Done. You now have a layout stick that gives you all the info you need to duplicate it even decades into the future. And it's durable. And it hangs easily from the turned scroll for storage! I rarely to never use round stock for most of my work. And I turn my s hooks on the diamond. It truly sets them apart from all the imports. This process takes far less time to execute than describe. And it will work for any scroll you want to make, from cabinet pulls to large scrolls in your gates and railings.
  10. Another good piece of advice is to stay in one work location. If you stay there long enough, they will find you.
  11. Lol, and sits there because it's easier to get the proper "toung control" for her famous nose slurp.
  12. Frosty,,, you are outrageous !!! And right on the money! A big thumbs up!
  13. The best place to be is right where you are. And that's anywhere. However, no matter where you are, it's not easy to learn what's needed to become a full time working traditional smith. Not easy, but not impossible. First you need three things and they are called the 3 "D's". That's desire, dedication, determination. Without them it still doesn't matter where you are. You can be a part time or hobby smith anywhere. Second you have to realize that there was a reason that apprenticeships were ~7 years. That's the time it will take to learn the skills to succeed in one of the catagorize as an architectural blacksmith. It may sound trite, but it is "right on the money". The pathway is truly different for each and every one of us. With the 3 "D's" you will prevail,, without you will fail. Many of us have started out after a bit of time mastering the basics such as fire control by doing hardware. This is relatively easy stuff to make and a large catagory to get into where ever you are. Thus, you will always be challenged. In or close to the mountains? Custom log/post and beam homes etc are your ticket. Hinges, lighting, brackets, switch plate covers, fire place accessories to name a few items. Live near the southwest? Adobe and iron details go hand in hand. East coast? Colonial restoration rules as does log/post and beam iron of all sorts in the mountains. I'll not repeat the advice already given. And never forget,,, architectural Blacksmiths are the 1%'rs of the iron industry and, most important,,, there's plenty of room at the top!
  14. Tigger when evil mean pit!