• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About anvil

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

5,326 profile views
  1. Well, Jen is correct. Once you develop the skill to turn scrolls by eye, the time difference between using a jig, or the mark one eyeball becomes moot. Thus, in the long run, using the mark one eyeball means more variation and freedom of expression and along with this the ability to charge more per lineal foot due to it being unique. I say this strictly because the best way to max economics using jigs is to have one jig fits all, and it is used all the time. Thus in that space defined by code 4"×32", a production shop needs only one jig and one setup. The benefit is it takes very little time to train a helper to use that jig. However what you lose is one off creativity by the job. So the choice becomes production vs comission. This is the difference, and the choice made is always the correct choice. Thus there should never be any conflict between the two pathways. Obviously this is a great simplification. The question should be just how do you bridge the learning curve and get to the place where the time difference between jigs and the mark one eyeball isnt an issue? And how much learning time does it actually take to get to that point? Well, who in the blacksmithing world bends iron without a jig on a daily basis? A Farrier. Every shoe is shaped to fit a specific hoof without a jig and absolutely must be done in a timely manner. By the end of the first summer you are either fairly competant, or there will be no next summer. The next question is how long does it take a farrier who decides to become a " blacksmith" to grasp the idea that an "s" scroll is just a weird hoof and apply his/her experience and confidence to freehand matched scrolls in railings or whatever. Lol, sometimes without a hint from some blacksmith, never! Thinking out of the box isnt easy. And Frosty, when I read the origional post, he was asking advice on how to match scrolls. I figgured if he was using a jig, he would have asked how to use a jig. Since he didnt, i guessed he was doing them freehand. Thus so many posts and tips on freehand. And nowhere did i see any comments on freehand good, jigs bad.
  2. Its not critical. So either/any way works.
  3. the greatest boost to me for being able to match scrolls was, as I stated above, to hang the same amount of material over the edge of the anvil, and scroll it, for each step. how much for each phase? I use Glen's Fibonacci ratio above. 1;2;3;5;8 etc. The golden mean is a good start to undertanding scrolls and the concept of ratios is critical. However, the fun part begins when you consciously change the ratio When you can do this, the shape of a scroll in any given space becomes infinite. Thus the space between pickets, defined by code, can be filled with an infinite # of shapes. This is also the primary reason I don't use jigs to turn my scrolls vs freehand matched scrolls. jigs enhance economics the more you use them,, freehand enhances creativity from rail to rail. Both have their place.
  4. I do mine pretty much the same. However, I do them hot, and over the edge of the anvil as well. Lol, I do all my finials hot. After i get rolling I move to my post vice, bending forks and scrolling wrench. Much of my scrolling with my forks is done cold. Lol, unlike arftist, ive never found free hand wrestling 10 or 15 feet of iron into matching scrolls boring. If you have tapered ends, always use the same amount of material for all your tapers. Then, always draw them out to the same length. IE: mark all say 2" with a light center punch mark and then draw all out to 3". If you do this, then all your tapers will have the same cross section along the length. Next, on each section, always hang the same length over the edge, do the same on all. Then hang a longer length for the next go around. So,, first go, hang say an inch over and scroll all pieces. Then hang 2" of non scrolled stock over the edge, and add to your first scroll,, match all others to your first one. Basically the reasoning is if the cross sections match, and you use the same amount of material (length) for each phase, you almost cant go wrong. If these arent the same, you cant hardly be right. And like was said above, always match to your first one. This prevents accumulative error. This is not different than arftist and Frosty, just an added detail.
  5. Nice books. Im unpacking mine and having a ball. It takes a long time to unpack a boxfull when you go thru each book! Life is what life is.
  6. Actually, neither do I. The last "grader blade i got was the new piece in the pic. And that was over 10 years ago. Im guessing it was the same standard grader blade you speak of, but thats a guess. I do not know the brand, nor do I know the chemical makeup. The man who recommend it to me was Francis Whitaker at least 30 years ago. As far as working it, i have forged it, filed it, drilled it, ox/acetl cut it, hot cut it, and used a grinder on it. I never noticed anything that made me sit up and take notice while dealing with it. There was a learning curve, as with most junk yard type steels, and i have had my share of breakage. But once i figured out why, no problem. I still have and use some of my early benders, as ugly as they are. Ive edge bent 1/2"×2" hot, tweaked 3/8"×1" on edge cold, so put it thru its paces. I have gone to longer handles on my scrolling wrenches for more leverage, and it flexes then goes back to normal. It has never crumbled or anything unusual in the fire or under the hammer. So, assuming it is the same "standard" you speak of, the carbide, in this case, is not an issue. Good discussion, by the way! Thanks
  7. My only suggestion would be for a permanent setup, mount both your anvil and post vice into the ground, not a surface mount. And make sure you have 360 degrees around your post vice. I turn nearly all my scrolls using my post vice, bending forks and scrolling wrenches. Even a medium sized scroll can use 10' + of parent stock and full access to your vice is a real benefit. And with my post vice mounted 3+' into the ground, Its firm! If you might be scrolling say 1/2"x2", a surface mount wont cut it.
  8. Lol, I can heat more than one at a time, but I havent figured how to forge more than one at a time. Im working on it.
  9. Well, Ive never worked for the city or county, and im not a heavy equipment operator. Lol, im jest a blascksmith. My only experience with hard facing is borium for horse shoes. As to what is standard, i havent got a clue. Grader blade was recommended to me for scrolling wrenches and bending forks once upon a time.. So i went to some heavy equipment operator friends and got their worn out pieces. Then I built a log house and decided to use same for draw knives. So I asked my steel guy for new grader blade. It came in different dimensions. Hey, they were already close to final draw knife shape. What can i say? I made a dozen of them and gave them to my peelers if they peeled at least 3 logs. That was a dozen years ago ans at least mine and a couple others are still in operation and hold a good edge. Thus, whatever these folks gave me, or i bought, I can say without question that the material is forgable and just basic heat treating that you might use for unknown steel works great. Basically I heat treated it like a high carbon non alloy steel. Danged if I know what those crazy equipment operators or my steel guy sold me, but every piece ive ever seen, new or scrap, or hanging out in someones yard looks like the pics i posted. And ive never seen any with shop applied hard surfacing. So, in my neck of the woods, they call it grader blade and it works. If we are talking of the same material, then, yes its forgable.
  10. beautiful! He did a few workshops in Colorado that I attended. One of his handouts was a sheet with his tooling. Alas, I cannot find it. A major loss.
  11. my Beverly B3 is the finest lady in my shop.. However, Thomas is correct.