anvil

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About anvil

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  1. Bend Angle Iron Leg Out

    Try it "Whitaker" style. It will bend your mind, so to speak, but when you figure it out, it works quick, you can do it cold, and it's precise.
  2. 3 way pass thru

    Actually when I wrote my post above on how I would do this, one of my alternatives was as you described,, opening it up and treating it like a complex collar of sorts. But I deleted all but my "solution". Their solution, like many others, works, but for me, I would forge the angle on the diagional pieces out of solid stock and either with a tenon or drill the solid to accept a pin, as they did. And if I had many to do, I would make a top and bottom tool that would function as a tool to clean up the forging with tenon and as a monkey tool to better set the forged angles to fit the rounded eye detail. I worked with Francis Whitaker for about 5 years as one of his students. Pretty close to Yellin! I also have done quite a bit of restoration work. A highlight was to be involved as the blacksmith on the restoration of the superintendent of the Air Force academy's residence.
  3. 3 way pass thru

    More stuff. I described a form of joinery for the 45 degree angle that had a tenon on the end. Well I remember a bottom tool I saw in, I think, was in one of Schmilerler's books that was round going in, 45 degree angles on the end, and a tenoncentered on the Apex. I've always wondered at its use. Now I know.I suspect this was a common form of joinery. STOP wasting bandwidth also its harder to read when you insist on placing every sentence on its own ;line
  4. Check out my solution on that 3 way pass thru

  5. 3 way pass thru

    Nice piece! The cool thing is backwards engineering to figgure out how to match it,, especially if it's a restoration. Certainly a pic of the back is needed. Let's assume it's a traditional piece, not contemporary, thus we select our tooling. For the "C" scrolls. The screw head at the center of the scroll may or may not be a screw. What we see could be a weather issue. There are a number of ways to recreate this. Lol, a round headed screw is first on the list with the slot filled with a filler. This could be hot lead. Lead looks like iron and can be painted. It could be a blind rivet. This is a stud threaded to fit the hole, then the head is made from the stud sticking up proud. Or it could be simply a tenon on the end of the bar. The scrolls need 2 more points of attachment on the sides. I would again use "blind" pins. In this case, a hole thru the round bar. Holes in the "C" scrolls are blind. Now the 3 way. A 3 way pass thru has been ruled out, so here's how I would achieve what we see. Here a rear view would be really good. The diagionals are two pieces, not one. I believe there must be secure joinery at the Apex. Again, there could be a tenon at the Apex of the vee that fits into a drilled hole. This would be a forged and filed detail. Or, and most likely, a single pin could go thru the original pass thru and the diagonal pieces would have their own drilled holes to fit the other end. My bet is a single pin thru the original pass thru. The inboard diagional piece too must be made secure. If you look closely, you will see that the "C" scroll finials just leave room to set the ends. However, most likely this joint is blind, as are the pins on the pass thru. This is a repeat from above. Here's the trick, and it makes the whole deal rather simple. Figure out the assembly and you have the answer. All is pined. All pins are blind(not drilled thru) Assemble the quatrefoil and the associated diagionals and clamp/secure them with say, wire. Drop this assembled component into it's home then any of my above joinery would work for the outer pieces that pass thru horizontally. Place the outer diagionals on to their pins and put this whole shebang onto the base. Now each corner is supported via three members. Now place the pieces that pass thru the single hole thru the pass thru. Any of my above solutions will work here. Set all remaining supports into the frame. I'd make tenon's on all of these. Set the tenon's and Done. No power tools, no braising, just plane ole simple forgework. Thanks for the opportunity to figure out this puppy. And by the way, once you make a 100 plus, any contemporary tooling would just slow you down. 17 lines of empty wasted bandwidth removed
  6. hammer punch heat treat

    Sorry, I did this too quick. That should read temper, not quench. And only harden, depending on the tool and use, 1-1/2" to 2 ". Experience will be your best teacher, but this should get you there. This works for many steels and is worth a try on any mystery steel. I ht coil spring, leaf spring, w-1,10__ series, and with a slight modification, 0-1. Quench medium varies with steel. For O-1, I run the light straw to about an eighth inch or so from the end for small woodworking tools and leave that last eighth hard. Works for me.
  7. hammer punch heat treat

    Here's my take. You may already be doing some of what I recommend. Heat treat with constant light, not outside When hardening and using the reserve (differential) method, quench shortly after it loses it's magnetism. Sorta like a cooks punch if salt. Experience will be your teacher. Only harden an inch or two, not most of the punch. You can add heat in a few ways if the colors quit running. A ox/ac torch, a hot bar placed in the eye(have a few ready), special tongs with a heavy mass on the ends to place near where you need it. Quench or harden only a little, not a lot. Depending on the tool, anywhere from a quarter inch for a small cold chisel to a half inch on your tool. As to proper color, the best I can suggest is find on line for free old smithing books like "plane and ornamental forging" by Schwarzkopf, or googerty to name just two they all have a myriad of proper temper colors depending on use For what it's worth, I always heat treat my hot work tools. Two reasons,,, Practice. The residual hardness(springiness) behind the hardened and tempered tip adds life and longer times between retempering. Hope this helps
  8. hay rake teeth

    I don't know the farmer name. ;). I make many tools out if hay rake tines. They must be from horse drawn equipment. Treat as 1095 and water quench works for me. Draw a temper as needed for the tool type. Another good old steel is potatoe planter belt. Again if from old horse drawen equipment treat like 1095 and water quench.
  9. found

    Cheap fabbed railing out of tubing, and not enough electrical for me. Nope, not worth the time for a blacksmith shop.
  10. Perhaps a better question is when do you quit taking scrap? As for your question, anything smaller than 6" mild steel ends up sold,, someday. Anything longer than that stays on my steel rack. I can't tell you just how many times I've forge welded a piece of drop onto a longer bar, or carriage bolt to get the length I need. Most of my um, er, mistakes end up in my scrap pile and usually don't go for scrap. I've a few friends that like cruising my "scrap" for their own reasons. Never forget, you can tell the quality of a blacksmith by the quality of his scrap pile. As to my question, about 15 years into my journey I became pretty selective as to what I take. I pretty much limit it to wrought iron and sometimes coil/leaf springs as if my stock pile gets low. I'll take most any high carbon/tool steels to the day. I have some machinest friends who come by on occasions with known drop from their work.
  11. Forge welding stainless pipe?

    Lol, been there, done that! You can't hardly beat a beer can and two pipe clamps for cheap!! Especially after polishing off the beer.
  12. Thomas, you have given me something to think about, and not for the first time. I can come up with many reasons to not try this. That's easy. Habit being in the for front. There is a situation that a set of benders and forks specifically would solve. Often when using benders and forks that are flat sided, when bending on the diamond an edge will crush, or flatten. It seems I see this more when bending but it seems to not be noticeable when the job is done. I'm sure it's not healed itself. I believe a set of benders and forks with a filed in vee would solve this problem. Thanks for the input.
  13. When I was 5 or 6, my dad took me to a "ghost town" tourist deal. No live demos, just displays. I have never forgotten the blacksmith shop. A dummy sitting in a rocking chair with tools all over the forge and covering the floor. Now all I need is the rocking chair.. Actually a true story. I've pursued this dream since that time. At many critical crossroads across time something related to this amazing craft has been there. I've always taken the path indicated by "hot iron". And a grand journey it is!
  14. That's why toilet paper never tears on the preforations.