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About anvil

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  1. Interesting, and I'm one of those farriers who rarely removes the wall from the outside. Years ago a group of us(my farrier class) did some experiments thru New Mexico State University on the pounds per square inch on the bearing surface. Only the bottom of the wall. We calculated "standing weight. Then recalculated what the increase was when flair or "cleaning up the hoof"was removed. Force increased asymptotically, not linearly. I was a convert. It was easy to see that if you rasped flair off the quarters, they remained weak. If you fit the shoe to the flair and removed it via nippers, it took about 3 sets of shoes for the flair to go away. And you then had full thickness of this horse to support his weight and deal with the force of moving. This is pretty cool. I "quit" full time around '83. Set my last shoes about 10 years ago and my last trims haven't arrived yet, but very few. To drag my theory up is cool, and finding someone with similar thoughts is rare. Even "back in the day" I don't remember ever running into anyone with the same ideas. After my 3rd or 4th year I became pretty selective with my customers. I absolutely refused stables run by, usually a lady and wife of a lawyer or doctor or stock broker who fancied herself gods gift to the horse world. When a really she was no more than living g proof of what we farriers learn quick. There are far more horses asses in the world than horses.
  2. BS = bull pucky? I'm assuming they must dub off the toe?
  3. A trick I learned at the track wAs to not relieve the sole just past the white line and we'll inboard of racing plate. The sole looks relieved, and it won't cause soreness. However, when running g it is enough to cause the horse to think about other things than running and costs rival time. I can't believe that anybody would set the shoe back onto the sole. To level the hood and level the hood is the first basic that must be mastered. Without that shoes tend to come off. I learned that burning the shoe into the hood,, hotshoeing was a draft horse thing and not a good thing for the lighter breeds for the reasons you state plus the hood is not thick enough to protect it from the heat. Never done that. For that reason I've always considered hot shoeing to be making and shaping the shoes, then nailed on cold. I think that being able to level a foot, set the angles, fit a shoe flat and tight have served me well with my blacksmithing
  4. Does Traditionally trained farriers = "cowboy shoers"? Thinking back id say unless you have a foot problem, and as long as the hoof can handle the wear, keep them barefoot. Thats what i tried to have my customers do. Sounds like thats where you stand. One of my regrets is that i was primarily a cold shoer. Not because hotwork is better for the horse but because i could have been in the fire on a daily basis much earlier in my career. I did teach myself how to forge pony and draft horse shoes. But not near as quick and nice as now. I believed then as i do now that ow you make the shoe takes a big second to how you set the hoof and shape the shoe. Your times above reinforce that belief. If you cant fit that shoe properly as well cold as hot,,, yer just a cowboy shoer. ive had a few um, discussions about this as well. Im glad there was no internet then.
  5. Lol, one day you may hear more of my great adventure. Barefoot horse care,, is that trying to convince your customers to let them go barefoot for at least 3 months?
  6. My shop motto is,,, " God smiles on fools and Blacksmiths". I'm definitely a blacksmith. The kokopelli and the coyote have certainly generated many foolish situations and laughed themselves silly at how I survived,. And without a doubt, the gods and goddesses of our great craft have blessed me with their smiles.
  7. I spent 5 years with Francis Whitaker. Never full time but 4- 5 times a year he would haveme come work with him for a week or so. Or accompany him to a long week workshop with him and others. He "paid" me for one job,,, traded my labor for my 25# lil giant. May 28, 1988 was my last "official" time with him. He indicated I'd graduated from his upper level teachings and it was time to use what I'd learned and pass it on. That fall he moved to Carbondale and began his time at CRMS, a private high school. And now, a moment of deep personal self introspection. ;). Thanks
  8. Yup! Judd Nelson and Francis were up there too. I think Francis was 98 when he passed. Not sure about Judd, but I loved his demos at the abana conferences. His fluxing style was just Trick! Toss a handful of flux sorta in the direction of the iron and get it on! Following their examples.
  9. I should have added to determine the length. The center line is a direct measurement and you need no formulas based on the angle. Simple stuff for we simple Smith's.
  10. What JNeuman said. When bending steel, always take your meAsurements off the centerline. The outside edge draws out(gets longer), the inside upsets or shrinks, but the centerline stays the same. No machineing needed. As a traditional smith 3/8" is easy to bend hot or cold with a bending forks, scrollingwrench, and a leg vice. 1:determine your total length 2: find and mark with scribe or centerpunch the center of your length.(I always work from the center, rarely from an end) 3: mark the center of both bends. 4: to your full size drawing or best yet, sample bend, use your forks and scrolling wrench to make your angle and compare it to the same. Make only one sample bend and match all to this. After a few,you will be right on nearly every time and can do far more in less time than via machining. I can't tell you just how many drawer pull sets I've made for cabinet makers where the pull has a tenon on each end and they are set to an estution plate.
  11. Great demo! I used that same technique years ago to make brackets for benches for a day care. I wasn't looking for a circle, but close. After opening up the circle and making my "branches", I bent the middle and forged two right angle bends. Stuck in an "s" scroll with a daisy finial and riveted it in. The kids loved them. Thanks for the flashback! No critique, but another way I've gravitated to is to open it up like a slit,upset and drifted to shape on the horn. I'd leave the ends 5" or 6 " longer so as to not beat 9n the circle itself. Simple tools, simple forging, and puts new guys into the thought process of slit and drifted holes instead of punched and drifted. Shows to go there's always another way! I spent 20+ years as a farrier with the passion to become a reeeel blacksmith. Been a traditional smith for over 30+ years. Yes, there was some overlap. And one must never forget, old horse shoers never quit, we just do fewer and fewer horses. My last shoeing job was 5 years ago, and I still trim a few. Sneaking past 70 and still heating and beating. You are duly warned!
  12. With a coal forge: 4" of coke underneath, 2" on top. Use a slow rising heat and turn often. Then,,, experience will tell you when it's done.
  13. How about forge cooking?

    I have been known to put a few short lengths of half square across my fire and toast up a steak!
  14. Help wth upsetting

    Two things, 1: a local quench from a water can needs only bring your bar down from a good yellow to an orange or red. The residual heat will bleed in as well, so no hardening, tempering etc will take place. 2: this may sound counter productive but works. Compliments to Francis Whitaker for this one. Use a lighter hammer. 2-1/2* or smaller even for 3/4". A larger hammer will transmit too much force and cause the bend in your bar. A lighter hammer will upset without the loss of force to bending.