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Showing results for tags 'rust'.
Found 17 results
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Hi fellas, I'm looking for some advice on how to protect & finish the weldment areas on a 48"x24"x3/4" mild steel plate table. (see photos) There was quite an impressive layer of mill scale on the 3/4" plate to grind off. After MIG welding 2x2 and 4x4 square tube to the plate I now am concerned with protecting these areas from rust. I do not want the raw steel susceptible to rust while I figure out a solution so for now I have coated with a blend of 50/50 BLO/Turp. I am not a fan of the unfinished raw look, aesthetically I would prefer to darken the grind areas, so the one time i
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I notice some new lasers, designed for paint prep, that remove rust and oil and even loose paint. Has anyone here tried one yet? They look amazing in the videos! At around the $200 or $300 price level for the cheaper ones... they seem accessible for small shops. It looks to me like they might be extremely useful on projects with complex surfaces! I think they might also work to remove scale! I’d like to hear advice from anyone who has tried one out.
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New to the site here. I've looked around the site and used google with no luck on an answer. I spend quite a bit of time free diving during the summer and am on the ocean water in general quite a bit. I am wanting to make a few dive knives for myself and some friends that aren't prone to rusting. So my question is what can I make my knives out of/ finish them with to make them less prone to rusting? Thanks.
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I bought an anvil recently that has a decent coat of rust on it and probably hasn't been used in a bit. It's a 250# Fisher from 1892, I'll make a post with some pictures when I get a chance. I have been researching finishes and the consensus seems to be light wire brushing and boiled linseed oil coat for the sides. My question is if there is any downsides to taking a wire wheel to the sides to remove the rust before putting a linseed coat on? Aesthetically I prefer the cleaner look but I don't want to hurt the anvil in any way. Thanks!
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Hi. my name is Pedro. i from Brazil. this is my first topic here. sorry about my poor english but i'm trying do my best with a google translation help hehe Recently i started to building my workshop and this weekend i found and bought a 4"1/2 leg vise that was covered by a lot of paint. so i cleaned it up and i descovered thar the jaws of my leg vise have so much rust that make holes on the steel. i want to know how can i possible repair this rust holes. the good news is that everything is aligned and there is no cracking or seriously damage to be concerned , so i am thinking to grind wh
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Hi, I'm fairly new to forging and am having issues with my blades rusting alot. It seems like every time I make a knife 1-2 weeks later I will look and see light rust building up on the whole blade... any ideas on how to keep this from happening? -
I heard about removing rust using molassas, what nonsense. But I had half a bottle in the refrigeraor and decided to give it a try. I put an old hammerhead covered mostly with rust and some remnants of the original red paint into a half and half mixture of molassas and water and sealed it up in a glass jar and put it out on the porch. Nothing happened for a couple of days. I left it soak for the rest of the week. Then I noticed some yellow scum floating on top and checked it again. The rust had turned to a black sludge that you could rub off with your fingers and the pa
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So I see people talking about how you should stay away from forging galvanized metal, but I know that after a long time it can rust. If it's rusted would it be safe to smelt at that point? thanks
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Hey guys, long time reader, made an account recently, and now I have something to post. Had been looking for a chunk of steel to hammer on, and found this Fisher on Craigslist. A wire wheel and some hot steel should shine it up nice!
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There have been several discussions on the merits (or demerits) of simply using vinegar to remove rust from steel. I finally got around to shooting some before and after photos of VERY rusty horseshoes that I needed to de-rust to show how effective, simple and easy it is. I do this all the time; cleaned up 13 horseshoes this go-round. These had been laying around in the wet dirt for who-knows how long. I wire brushed the loose stuff off with my anvil wire brush, removed any nails then covered them with regular white vinegar in a plastic bucket. They soaked for a couple of days then I
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Hi, i recently acquired my fist anvil. It was pretty dirty and rusty and it was dark so I did not notice at first, but when I cleaned it I noticed some nasty damage on my poor anvil. The pictures show the damage. My questions are these: 1. Should I worry at all? 2. Should I try to return it to the man who sold it to me? If I can't do that: 3. Can I fix it? 4. How can I fix it? Thanks for the help, I'm really new to this but my dream is to be a blacksmith and I figured owning an anvil is the first step to that.
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I bought a Buffalo Forge No 616 about a year ago at an auction for $25. Looked decent shape but obviously had sat outside in grass and was rusted. it would not turn so I tried electrolysis on it and that didn't do it so now a year later I have a new plan. I don't have time to pend on this thing so I have mounted it up on my shed wall and oiled every joint and shaft opening that I could see. I then filled up the divot up at the top where the elevation wheel is to the brim.with motor 30W. I am asking for opinions about whether you think this will even work ( and time is not a problem at this po -
I had a fun learning experience planned out, but then realized that I didn't know if it was even possible. First, the main question: Can one forge heavily rusted (not quite falling apart, but past "100% pitted surface") "mystery steel" using a wood/charcoal forge? If so, are there any special considerations I need to worry about? Just guessing, but I'd reckon (at least) one of 3 things would happen: 1. The hot carbon could actually Reduce the rust back into un-oxidized Iron/Steel; 2. The rust (which probably trapped some sort of dirt/minerals) would just turn to Scale and fall off (or -
So here's my problem: within 2-3 weeks of finishing things like hooks and bottle openers with wax I'm starting to see a light "dust" of rust on various places of the piece. I am fairly new to this whole thing but thought it would take longer to see rust type stuff. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or just placed to much trust in my wax. Here's what I've been doing... forge the thing, cool, wire brush with a wire wheel to a bright finish (no scale or rust left), heat the piece with an oven, propane torch or the coal forge, apply wax (the bees/turpentine/boiled linseed oil), let cool
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Good morming all, I have just recently made a sushi knife for my friend for some practice. It was coal forged from 1084 H. Carbon steel and properly hardened/tempered. I put on a mirror finish but find that upon slicing hot foods, rust blooms instantly appear and give the blade a wacky "tie-dye" look. Is this something that can be avoided with treatment? Or will the blade need to be cleaned between cuts? Im still an apprentice so thanks for any advice.
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I've looked around a bit but to no avail. My question is this, I live in good old South Africa far from the USA where many of these bluing solutions originate and I was wondering if it would be possible to use HCl to induce the rust in the steel needed for the rust bluing process. All I find in the forum is reference to an acid solution. If you have any other thoughts on the matter please share them I am willing to learn as many DIY methods as possible without having to resort to paying tonnes of money if possible.
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How do you all finish your metal products. I just made a dinner triangle for the kiddos to hang outside, but don't want it to get all rusty and end up falling apart. What different products do you use for outdoor metals? What about indoors?
