Search the Community

Last blade of 2018, woot! Happy new year yall! Forged 80CrV2 full tang drop point with hamon. The blade is blued for added protection against the elements. Handle is buffalo horn with 3D printed cast bronze fittings - I like to leave a bit of the casting texture on the bronze for character. See ya next year! Theo

Heya guys, You know what time it is! Let me know if any of these blanks interest you and we'll get them into your hands. 80CrV2, already heat treated. Has a fun lanyard hole/loop that'll provide an extra challenge. A customer already has their eye on this one - I would need you to finish it and slap my provided micarta on. We will agree on how to divide profits privately. Email at [email protected] TheoRockNazz.com 1095 fighter, already heat treated. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 80CrV2 cleaver/chopper... clopper?..cheaver? Already head treated. Has inverted distal taper. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 1095 thick chef's knife, heat treated with temper line. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics)

so apologies if there is a specific place to post this sort of question but i'm genuinely stumped on this anvil logo. i know that the shape is a double horned south german pattern anvil made in the year 1939.. but i cant quite make out the writing. for now these are the best photo's i have, but will post more as soon as i have them! any help in finding out anything about this would be immensely appreciated!

Having an abundance of 1/4" H.R., I have been playing around in the shop making simple 2 piece Banana stands for the special ladies in my life. They love them but I cannot seem to come up with a better way to attach the legs. I have been Mig welding them and I really dislike the ugly welds. Anyone have any better suggestions? I am having a mental block figuring out this simple task. And I am no beginner. LoL! Thanks guys.

Hey guys, today I got a new anvil that I bought from a colleg of my father for just 25$. It was covered by thick painting but I removed it and was able to reveal some signs. I also made a video about the sound and the rebound. Perhaps one of you can indentify this anvil and say me what steel/iron it is made of and how much it actually is worth. Here it becomes interesting! I think that the top letters say "1824" -> if that is the production year this is almost antique o_o. And the middle ones seem to say 44 1/2... in kilogramms this would fit pretty good. And there is also a touch mark that looks like a square with two hashes on top. Here I marked the letters that I think I was able to recognize with Photoshop: I was actually impressed by the good rebound! You can also hear the sound (although it got a little scratchy from the microphone in real it is pretty clear!) Ok I would be glad if you can tell me something about this anvil. For me it is a nice little anvil I may take with me to demonstrations or other events that need a portable anvil. Yours - Daniel you may get more answers if you asked in the anvil section, I will relocate for you

So......I suggested "wall art" in the, what can I make page. 14 hours later this is what it got. I am calling it "Remnant" Because it was forges out of failed pieces and left over drops. We all have that pile of short steel that we hold on to because one time 9 years ago we needed a 3" piece and had to cut into a fresh 20' stick.....so now we don't throw anything over 2" away........but we never really use much of it.....well my hoard was growing and starting to attack my shop space with ill intent. I drew this project up about 3 years ago......and it was time to get it done. I wanted to have the assumption of a frame without the frame. I wanted tenons, drifted holes, dog boned flat bar, curves, upset corners, twists, hard and soft lines and lastly........some obnoxious riot gate rivets. this piece is about 21" across by 38' tall, weight is about 35lbs. The 3 frame pieces are 3/16" x 1 1/2" I upset the sides down the length of the stock down to 1" left about 1 1/2" untouched at each end, this gives the steel the appearance of being fullered with wide grove. I had some twist experiments so I forged a foot to mount them and riveted them on. I then forge chunks of 1/2"-3/4" square, 1"-2" x 3/16"/ 1/4" flat bar and a round bar scrap. At any rate several hours of forging later I have all my parts done and bolted the entire piece together and made some adjustments. Because of the theme of this piece and the fact that I wanted a dark steel piece I only wire brushed the pieces by hand while they were hot. I don't want any burnished silver metal on the piece. Here is my sketch which i altered a lot.......its art, and its mine.....so I can do whatever I want. lol. Anyway moving on. Here I have forged several pieces and decided on a rivet that i really like. Its in the top right corner.......I ended up making 11 of them but one had to be cut down. At this point a lot of thought and planning starts to slow down progress, each piece now is associating with not just 1 other piece but 2,3 and even 4 other pieces. Everything must work together. I use bolts to fasten the pieces tightly together so I can make small adjustments as I forge new pieces. this makes assembly must faster and I have less alignment issues. Due to the nature of the pieces I had to get creative with my ability to drill nice, centered, and useful holes. lol. I always wondered what that slot on the vise was for. At this point all the pieces are forged and bolted together. I really had to pay attention now so I could rivet and peen my tenons in the right order. With so many over lapping junctions and pieces if not assembled in the right order some of the fastening points would be unreachable. During assembly one of my tenons snapped of.......ah crap......I simply plug welded it the welded the tenon over the lug weld and peened it over like a normal tenon.......lol.....if I had not said anything you'd never notice...even if your got really close. But I learned a new trick........you "purest".... just relax its not the end of the world. lol Here is the completed piece. I used a torch to spot heat sections and make adjustments to bring everything back into alignment. It was a fun project and I learned a lot from it. If i do anything like this again it will be better and easier. I got to use 11 big, obnoxious, gody, rivets!!!! That really is the point of these monthly "what can i make" it to get you in the smithy forging. If your forging, your learning. Push yourself outside your comfort zone and see what happens.....there are no , knowledge being gained and that is what allows us to say......."I forge Iron" have a good time and make some wall art!!!!!!

This is a blade that's been in the work for months, finally I am happy to be able to show it off! This concept came to me quite some time ago, and it took me winning Forged In Fire to finally scrounge up to the funds to move forward on. The handle and general blade shape was waterjet cut from 1/2" thick 5160 spring steel, then forged to shape from there. Had to get inventive with some stuff - sanding the twisted areas was a nightmare - ended up leaving bits of forge finish some places because I wanted to allude to it's forged nature. I gently hot blued the handle to protect all the nooks n crannies. Overall I am very happy with this knife; it's sharp as the dickens and light in the hand. Let me know what yall think, Theo

So Spokane has a bridge right over the Falls and a customer brought me a 4ft turn buckle and wanted some thing that looked "old Iron bridgey" but also wanted to be able to see the turnbuckle. So here it is....id have only used rivets but the customer wanted back up so it is welded.....even tho those old iron bridges where all riveted. lol. the most challenging part of this build was arching the 3" x 1/4" flat bar....the hard way.....it took a lot of work because the customer did not want a thinned edge.....from hammering the outside edge to help it curve....its hard to believe I know.... but it is 1/4" all the way across the arch.....As I forged I had to forge the extra steel from the inside edge across to the outside edge... this was a very painstaking task and those 2 arched took me over 3 hours to forge but....The arch is 3" x 1/4" all the way across. It don't look like much but it one of the best forgings i have produced with that level of difficulty.It was pretty tight arch because the base is only 14" across so and it took 20" of bar stock....so its pretty crunched up.... moved a lot of steel with the hammer and fire. I originally was just going to build a wedge to hold the turn buckle in place but the customer wanted the center strap to just pass thru the eyes on the turn buckle. So I removed the center strap and used a longer strap to pass thru and secure the turnbuckle.

Got an order for 5 corbels......then another for 20. I always post what I am up to on IG and FB......I have had people say so of its not worth posting, its to easy to make,........ bla bla bla.......it dosen't show case my skills.... Well these are about as simple a corbel as a guy can make......customer ordered 5 of them....easy $250 job. I posted them today at 1pm and then I got a call from a guy 450 miles a way...... he saw them cause his buddy follows my IG account.....he loves them and is putting in a set of wall shelves..... he ordered 20 of them at $50 each....... easy 12-14 hours of work maybe $50 in materials...... nice little payday to keep the lights on and the doors open.

My grandfather bought this secondhand about 35 years ago, my Nana is now selling most of her things to move into a smaller house, this has been living in the garden as a patio ornament all that time. There doesn't seem to be any maker's mark, though it's exposure to the elements has left the surface pretty rough (it's obviously iron) I'm not sure how heavy it is but I regularly carry a 17kg dog and this thing I barely managed to get a cm off the ground for one second. All my Nana is interested in is what we should advertise it as (anvil or ASO) and how much we can get for it but I'd just like to know a bit more about it if anyone can help, a friend of mind believes it is probably cast but as I said, the weather has removed any seam lines that may have been present. Also I hit it with a hammer and it dings, on the middle, the horn and the back

Just finished up this puppy. I had a lot of fun forging this blade; W2 high carbon steel blade with integral guard. Handle is my own cast Impregg handle material (sanitized crushed egg shell, mica powder, and G-Flex epoxy) and ebony. The Impregg material is translucent in the thinner areas around the guard. The hamon came out almost exactly as intended - a little closer to the edge in spots but still very serviceable. Comments and critique encouraged! Theo

So I am experimenting with this new handle material I made up that I call Impregg. It's sanitized and crushed egg shell, mica powder, and G-Flex epoxy. It's got some really neat depth to it, you can see through the gaps between shells to the swirls of mica powder inside. The tang is left rough and the material is "cast" directly onto it. I feel it will work really well for my integrals especially.Please let me know what you think, I plan on using it in a little upcoming series.Hand forged S7 high carbon steel camp knife with integral guard. Impregg handle and wenge insert. This knife features a forged thumb rest that gives you wonderful control over the blade for most tasks.Hand forged W2 high carbon steel camp knife with integral finger rest. Impregg handle and 3D printed cast bronze medallion with my logo incorporated.

This video demonstrates one of the many ways in which flowers can be hand forged. and a couple photos....

A couple months ago, I watched the Peter Ross video on making a wood worker's compass (divider). This is my first pair. I made these for my neighbor and he will finish doing the filing work on them. I thought they turned out really nice. Also, this was my first attempt at fire welding and I was very pleased with how it turned out. I plan on making many more pairs of these and getting good at making them. One improvement I want to try is fire welding a carbon steel bit into the tip to begin with so the tip is more durable. The one mistake I made was bending the hinge a little when I set the pin. They still work just fine though. This compass is about 6 inches long and my neighbor was thrilled to get them. He spent some time showing me how he would use them to lay out a dove tail. I had no idea how useful they were. Anyhow... super fun little project to hone your black smith super powers. Matthew D Provo, Utah

This “bar light” was designed for a custom space and had a few key design elements that had to be achieved for the customer. 1) Had to light the bar, grill, counter,sink area well enough for a person to operate there safely. 2) No direct light can shine into the faces of people sitting around the near by fire pit. 3) Needed to be decorative but not block the view of the river that flows by the gazebo 4) Fit inside the log truss that forms the one of the 8 sides of this 40+ ft Gazebo 5) Have dragonfly’s. Original conceptual sketch. The light would actually be a piece of art that hid with in it a light. it is 14 ft across and 5.5 ft tall. Design was approved, not having a fabrication table large enough the concept is drawn out to scale on the shop floor. Next I cut the broad leaves, and Dragonfly's from 3/16" sheet metal and forge them in to shape. The 3/8 round rod that will make up the vines gets hammer textured to give it a more receptive look to the human eye. Using wire I am able to measure the length of the vines, cut and shape them to match the drawing. The pieces are then laid on the floor in their respective places. Once all of the pieces have been cut, textured, forged, and descaled I weld them all in place. I moved the piece on to a table at this point, this made it easier to finish cleaning and removing the discoloration, and scale from the forging and welding process. The piece gets a final prep, clear coated, and wired for lights. Here is the complete piece installed

I had been working all day yesterday on some art pieces for an upcoming show and toward the end of the day I just had to make a blade. It starts as a 1" x 3/8" bar of W-1. (shown on top in the photo) This is where I got to after about 65 minutes of forging. I still have to clean up the plunge cut area and shape the tang for a stag handle.

hello everyone, this is my final year at my studies in BA Fine Arts working with metal started from my desire to do a model of an abandoned factory that i used to paint. this has now advanced into blacksmithing and it is a very enjoyable experience with surprises on every corner. This year was my best work so far, i added wax to my materials which blends very well with metal. my inspiration for this project originated from visiting the Red Light District in Amsterdam which provided me with a very unpleasant feeling which has led to these sculptures. I don't want to say much as in order to leave you make your own thoughts about what you see. thanks for all the help from this forum and let me know of what you think. photos By Alexandros Hadjicostas. Andreas Santis

Recently I wrapped up a similar W2 blade '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> that the customer decided halfway through he didn't like the triangulated guard and pommel. SO the old fittings went on a smaller blade, and I reprinted a smoother guard n pommel (I was dead-set on 3D printing the fittings on this girl). Ebony scales and brass pins. 14.625" OAL, 4.75" handle, 1/8" at guard with distal taper, 1.8125" at widest The stepping on the printed components is quite visible on the curved surfaces. I flubbed up somethin good on the finish on two pins... at least they are both on one side so there's a pretty side haha The guard and pommel were printed with cavities to reduce weight. The color is an interesting mixture of the stainless steel powder and the bronze that is cast around it. Conveniently similar to brass. Went with a smooth gradient of hamon clay, which was an error in retrospect because the blade is so wide the grain transition/boundary was spread out resulting in a BORING hamon... so I took the sanding a step back for a satin finish with hint of hamon ("satin finish with hint of hamon" sounds like a food). Comments/critique encouraged :) Theo

Been playing with blacksmithing for a little less than a year now.... This was one of my first projects (only about a month in)... Alot has changed since then but still, given what I had at the time... pretty proud of this one...

I needed ideas for small projects to do in my soup can forge while I work out of town. I was inspired by the posts about arrowheads. Here is my first.