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Found 7 results

  1. Got an order for 5 corbels......then another for 20. I always post what I am up to on IG and FB......I have had people say so of its not worth posting, its to easy to make,........ bla bla bla.......it dosen't show case my skills.... Well these are about as simple a corbel as a guy can make......customer ordered 5 of them....easy $250 job. I posted them today at 1pm and then I got a call from a guy 450 miles a way...... he saw them cause his buddy follows my IG account.....he loves them and is putting in a set of wall shelves..... he ordered 20 of them at $50 each....... easy 12-14 hours of work maybe $50 in materials...... nice little payday to keep the lights on and the doors open.
  2. Have quite a bit of copper sheeting to texture. It's pretty thin around 16ga. Anyone ever textured with a pneumatic needle gun before?? I have heard a lot of guys getting an air chisel or air hammer and putting chisel bits in and putting texture in that way to be quicker than doing it by hand. Any good fast techniques?? Or experience with the needle gun?? the picture is the look I am trying to achieve.
  3. This “bar light” was designed for a custom space and had a few key design elements that had to be achieved for the customer. 1) Had to light the bar, grill, counter,sink area well enough for a person to operate there safely. 2) No direct light can shine into the faces of people sitting around the near by fire pit. 3) Needed to be decorative but not block the view of the river that flows by the gazebo 4) Fit inside the log truss that forms the one of the 8 sides of this 40+ ft Gazebo 5) Have dragonfly’s. Original conceptual sketch. The light would actually be a piece of art that hid with in it a light. it is 14 ft across and 5.5 ft tall. Design was approved, not having a fabrication table large enough the concept is drawn out to scale on the shop floor. Next I cut the broad leaves, and Dragonfly's from 3/16" sheet metal and forge them in to shape. The 3/8 round rod that will make up the vines gets hammer textured to give it a more receptive look to the human eye. Using wire I am able to measure the length of the vines, cut and shape them to match the drawing. The pieces are then laid on the floor in their respective places. Once all of the pieces have been cut, textured, forged, and descaled I weld them all in place. I moved the piece on to a table at this point, this made it easier to finish cleaning and removing the discoloration, and scale from the forging and welding process. The piece gets a final prep, clear coated, and wired for lights. Here is the complete piece installed
  4. Man, I've been posting a lot for the last couple days. Hope no one's getting sick of me yet! Anyway, I'm making a little skinner from some 5160 for an American explorer themed set. Because the theme is 19th century (though the knives are of a more modern design), I'd like to use wood for all the handles. Here's the rub: I want the skinner's handle to be very aggressively textured to make it more slip-resistant when you've got your hands deep inside a deer or elk carcass... I'm thinking something along the lines of the popular wood texturing you see on the grip of a 1911--kind of a diamond-y pattern... Any ideas? I was thinking maybe one of those Dremel sandpaper discs without a backing would cut a thin enough line that it would work, but any of the burrs might be too thick. Google hasn't turned up much because most "gun grip texturing" is about how to melt polymer.
  5. This piece comes from a sketch I drew up in the 2011/12 winter. I modified the look to be thin and tall, I just felt like it would look better. All of the iron was forged from 2” x ¼” bar stock, with exception of the cattail stems (1/4” round rod). The frame is textured with “hit & miss” texture, I ran past the confines of the frame because I wanted to add depth to the piece and life. Living things don’t care about the boarders or bounds that you might want them to live with in-they grow were the sun draws them. Adding the dragonflies really brought the piece together and made all aspects of it pop. This piece is all hand forged, and textured, it solid iron, and finished with beeswax. It measures 40” tall and 14”wide. Thanks for looking!!!!
  6. Yes I know RR spikes have been done to death, but hey lets kick that dead horse one more time. bla bla bla lol and here it is. left head and point intact, drew out the middle to about 2.5 x original length. folded point over its self, bent the hook, and twisted. Punched holes. 24" x 1/4" x 2" Flat bar. 1 1/4" from end I necked the bar down to 1" wide and then drew out the ends then rounded all the corners off. Texture was done with a straight peen hammer and it is "hit and miss" meaning don't texture every inch of the bar and use very heavy hammer blows moving accross the bar. Punched the bar then welded the back side of hooks so they don't swivel, hey why not I got a welder right here. Placed rivits in the hole, cut off the extra on the back and welded them also------I got a welder right here, then I finished the piece off with some bees wax, cause the bees wax just makes that iron dead sexy, oh you know what i am talking about!!!! It ends up being 30" long x 14" wide Thanks for viewing