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Found 7 results

  1. Good Morning Ladies and Gents, I seem to have run into a dilemma with a few projects I'm currently working on and need some advice. Had some concept designs that I've been mulling over in my head and finally decided to actually put them into steel. They came out nicely, the problem is knowing what I can coat them in to keep them from rusting/corroding. Looking for something that will hold up for a while, but easy to put on finished pieces. Most of the pieces have moving parts so coating them completely in an Epoxy/Resin would require me to have to coat them previously to assembly, which may prove difficult. Anyways, any advice would be great. Thanks Kermit.
  2. So I'm sure any of you out there who do metal work for a living have been asked about "Clear Coat" for metal work and keeping that natural looking finish on metal. All of us have our secrets and tricks and preferences. I recently had an outdoor fireplace screen project where the client would not budge on having it a natural forged steel look. I told them it will eventually start rusting unless your willing to commit to maintaining the piece on a regular basis. After quite a bit of research I decided to try clear powder coating. This particular process is done without sandblasting so you do not lose the forged finish and texture on your iron work. The whole piece was cleaned thoroughly then wire wheeled, then wiped down with denatured alcohol and then one more quick pass with steel wool to take off any additional rust spots starting. The piece is then powder coated clear. This is the first time I have tried this particular process and was hoping someone out there has tried it before. Any information on clear powder coating and its longevity??
  3. I found this video while browsing the web, and I didn't see it in the forums here recently, so I figured I would put it up. This gentleman makes knives and treats them with 3-in-1 oil and blues them before sending them out to customers. A bunch of people were discussing best methods and he thought he would do a big sample of what the different methods can do to prevent rusting in a finished blade. Very very interesting watch!
  4. hello everyone, this is my final year at my studies in BA Fine Arts working with metal started from my desire to do a model of an abandoned factory that i used to paint. this has now advanced into blacksmithing and it is a very enjoyable experience with surprises on every corner. This year was my best work so far, i added wax to my materials which blends very well with metal. my inspiration for this project originated from visiting the Red Light District in Amsterdam which provided me with a very unpleasant feeling which has led to these sculptures. I don't want to say much as in order to leave you make your own thoughts about what you see. thanks for all the help from this forum and let me know of what you think. photos By Alexandros Hadjicostas. Andreas Santis
  5. This piece comes from a sketch I drew up in the 2011/12 winter. I modified the look to be thin and tall, I just felt like it would look better. All of the iron was forged from 2” x ¼” bar stock, with exception of the cattail stems (1/4” round rod). The frame is textured with “hit & miss” texture, I ran past the confines of the frame because I wanted to add depth to the piece and life. Living things don’t care about the boarders or bounds that you might want them to live with in-they grow were the sun draws them. Adding the dragonflies really brought the piece together and made all aspects of it pop. This piece is all hand forged, and textured, it solid iron, and finished with beeswax. It measures 40” tall and 14”wide. Thanks for looking!!!!
  6. So here's my problem: within 2-3 weeks of finishing things like hooks and bottle openers with wax I'm starting to see a light "dust" of rust on various places of the piece. I am fairly new to this whole thing but thought it would take longer to see rust type stuff. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or just placed to much trust in my wax. Here's what I've been doing... forge the thing, cool, wire brush with a wire wheel to a bright finish (no scale or rust left), heat the piece with an oven, propane torch or the coal forge, apply wax (the bees/turpentine/boiled linseed oil), let cool to warm and apply a second coat. Seems to be kind of a standard thing but I didn't expect rust after a couple weeks. Being in Western NC it is humid but am I missing something? I would appreciate any suggesting and feed back. I love useing the wax... its classic, has a great look and feel and smells great but am wondering if the rubbed black rustolium is the solution for at least the traditional look? Thanks