bubba682

Was it arcing or just spooling,lol the best i ever seen was a guy go to listen if his gas was on by placing the nozzle next to his ear.When he pulled the trigger he drove .045 wire into his ear not nice lol lets say he was off work for a while.

If thats a hobby welder what did he weld for 6 min straight or more to melt it i have to ask i'd say he can find the part somewhere with a little luck.Lol i better check my 25 yr old mig cause i havn't cleaned it ever .The hobarts are good machines that couldn't of happened at once it must of been breaking down over some time i think anyway.

I,m not a fan of high tech machines that do it all i like the old dials and change the lead machines that let the welder figure out his heat . I got a lincoln square wave with inverter tec for quick alum jobs and high freq a few years ago it blew a circuit board with not a ton of hours on it anyway never again even though it works great now.I was hopin to eventually hear some reviews on the rebels and how they were holden up and guys likes and dislikes.The reason is i was talkin to a esab rep a while ago about the high tech in all the new machines and we had a good laugh and was one of the reasons i keep the old miller acdc thunderbolt on hot idle in my shops corner.The gear on the new ones don't hold up good over time and it ain't cheap to fix the circuit boards and displays once the warranty is up.

I have used flux core with shielding gas last time was 20 yrs ago with gas it was still still smoky but it runs great as i recall there was very little splatter.So do you run it for commercial work or in your shop if your in your shop and have access to gas why not run 7018 i would think 7018 would cost less per roll of wire.

Splatter can be controlled with heat and wire speed migs like a clean surface and a little pre heat don't hurt flux core is splattery its like usin 6010 or 6011 all day.I don't use flux core mig for those reasons i havn't used antisplatter in over 20 yrs.I hear some flux core rolls of wire now have some additives to help with splatter but i have no experience with it.

Its squezzin thats the important part i've had a handle foot combo made and hav'nt hooked it up in over 3 yrs i just got used to workin the controll by hand.

I take it that is inverter tech i'd buy that it handles 1/8 7018 no prob how long it will last who cares when i compare it to the price of my lincoln 200 square wave which blew a diode on the board after after some medium use tig'n alum and stainless.I just bought a mini diesel heater for under 200 cdn so i might get one of these for fun but i got to say it works ok in the vid i'd leave it on 220 unless i had no choice.

Any time i got a regulator failure i get new ones i ain't qualified to fix'em and i wouldn't attempt it thats why we have repair techs who are certified.Those flashback /arresters arn't cheap but they'll stop a catastrophe i like brand name not the i got them cheap off the interweb brand when it comes to torche gear..

I run a 8'' gap with a 10'' stroke piston if that helps it works good for me.

Mine are pretty quick and simple i use 1/2''plate for my die bases all are 6''x6'' then i welded 1/4''x1''x1'' angle iron around the outside of base so the base slides in and out then i welded a bolt and tab below the base.So the tab slides under the bottom of base to take it out then it automatically swings up because its longer on the bottom of the tab so gravity does its thing and the new base is secured in seconds.Been usin that set up for roughly four years on 19 ton press and no issues its not a complicated setup and its quick to change dies..I cut a 1/4'' off the angle for a tighter fit when the die base plate slides in hope that helps...

So if im lookin at it right your cyl will be pushin down on the dies my pushes up but that don't mean anything its more about preference your frame is well built the welds i see look good from the pics so as long as they are clean and the fusion and penetration are good there good .I went with 2''x4'' flat dies and 1''x4'' fullers to take advantage of the force multiplier adv go with the size you feel give the best squeeze for your tonnage. I also put wheels on my base to move mine around the shop if i had my time over i would of mounted it to a fixed base and made it smaller presses don't have to be huge.Put some kind of shield,wraps or both on your hoses to protect them from hot steel reminds me as i got to finish my foot control set up its only been two years since i forgot to finish it lol.The one thing i find in common when guys get into this its tonnage is the concern you have more than enough to do what you want to do. Speed i think is more important cause its your dies that do the work the hotter the steel stays hot the easier the dies move it and less tonnage is needed which saves guys money especially as a hobbyist.Probally alot of guys won't agree with my last sentence but once your set up and running awhile let me know you think between speed and tonnage .Now a pro shop might disagree but im just a hobbyist thats what mine was built for anyway let me know what you think....

I am no hydraulics expert when i built mine i went to a pro shop for a system that i installed but mine will hold the piece im working on say for twisting damascus if that helps.My system is basically a log splitter set up in an h frame but its works pretty slick and most of my dies are made out of low carbon steel cause of price .I don't know what the price of hose and fittings are down in the states but it wasn't cheap up here lol.My press has been squishing for four or five years now when i built it i was worried about galling on the risers because of piston not being perfectly centered.So far so good i used a level a square and measuring tape and a bit of gun tape so what im saying is you can have some play in the movement for an h frame.Are you going h frame or are you using 2 pieces of angle with the die base running between them till it hits the stop,i'm not familiar with Bateston? book or press i used Randys book.

MG thats pretty hevi plate as long as your weld are properly laid in that will hold the world up what are you using 7018 stick. My press in comparison is a h frame design i used 4''x4'' 1/4'' steel with 1'' press base, 1/2'' die plates,lots of gussets,16gpm pump,5hp motor ,5 gal res, 5''piston with a 10'' stroke . I'm in around 18/19 ton i make everything from bowls to Damascus.I my opinion they work best if you gettin 4 seconds and inch on speed for travel till ya start your main squeeze so you don't loose your heat.To me that speed means more than tonnage and it will save you money on material not that your goin to change up now cause ya got all your material.I'm just saying you don't need monster tonnage to move hot steel they are fun to make and work great either as a hobby or professionally.Have fun building it and keep posting pics....

Rt on i got a victor multi torch set up i want to use with propane i'll have to check with the supplier to see if he can get me one rose buds make life easier ..

Is the rose bud a regular acetylene nozzle or is it for propane .