Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'iron'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
  • Safety
  • Sections
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum

Categories

  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill

Categories

  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Biography


Interests


Occupation

Found 31 results

  1. I stopped at the scrap yard today to see if I could find an anvil or piece of metal better than my one inch stainless plate on a stump. I found this injection die casting mold set that I believe is solid tool steel and weight about 150 pounds. I’m torn between just standing on end and using as is, or cutting it up and welding in a different orientation. I also grabbed a couple bars that I think were fork lift tines. I grabbed them figuring I could either use as a horn on the tool steel, or make a smaller horned anvil. Would I be better off cutting a slab of the tool steel and attaching to a mild base, or leaving it solid? The hammer is for size reference and is 8 lbs. I will mostly be making knives but I want to get into more traditional iron work, and any input and ideas as to what to do with these blocks will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  2. I finished my replica Viking Tongs tonight. These are made from 7/8 inch wrought iron square bar which I picked up from an old cattle ranch bone yard. Overall length is 17 inches with 12 inch reins. The reins have plenty of flex and they are comfortable in the hand. See this link for a picture of the Viking era tongs I use used to make the replica. http://sciencenordic.com/viking-blacksmith-buried-his-tools I didn't really have any sort of scale to go by, so I printed the photo a couple times until I got a scale that seemed about right. The challenge was getting the two sides equal, but I got them pretty close. I can see from the original tongs that the two halves are not entirely equal either. The tongs work really well gripping flat stock, like a knife. I may adjust the reins or the jaws a little more so the reins are not so far open when holding something about 1/4 thick. Overall it was a fun project. I'll definitely use them around the shop and they will be an interesting piece to talk about with other blacksmiths. See my two other topics on old world (African) pattern tongs and wrought iron: There are some photos in there of forging the viking tongs and a pair of African style tongs. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/48679-african-style-tongs/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/48828-wrought-iron-bar/
  3. Just getting my studio set up and looking for sources for scrap iron in NH. Went to a scrapyard last week and was definitely overcharged. Looking to get a wide variety of scrap pieces in various sizes, shapes and forms on a regular basis at market price. I'm in Nottingham NH. Anyone have a scrapyard they like that sells to individuals? All help is appreciated! Ken
  4. For those that haven't seen my post about me acquiring an antique forge recently, the picture of it is below. I wanted your advice on how I could make a firepot about softball sized with extra flat space (I don't know the specific name of it, like a table) around it for holding coal. Since my forge is a rivet forge it did not come with a firepot and with the tuyere about half an inch above the bottom of the pan. My idea was putting dirt into the bottom of the pan so it would fill in that half an inch under the tuyere. Then I'd make the firepot out of sheet metal. The pan is 18" diameter. Thoughts on this idea or if you have another idea?
  5. Hey all, I've recently come across a large batch or 1.5" Malleable Iron lock-rings (nuts, threaded washers, depends who u are). I'm wondering if anyone out there has ever worked with malleable iron before? I know the rough details of it, it's a white cast iron, no good, etc,etc..... but I have been able to hot-cut, bend, twist, and shape one of these as a test. I found that at anything above a dull red or maybe up to an orange shade, it seems somewhat useable, above that it can crumble under the hammer. Any thoughts or experience with this? I have 675+ of these... So I'm hoping to make them useful in the shop beyond their original use, which I don't need them for. Thanks to anyone that can help!
  6. Howdy all, I'm back with my newest 3D printed shenanigans. Blade is W2 and pure nickle twisted together, wrought iron spine - can you guess what fellow IFI member inspired the pattern? The frame is printed in plastic then lost-wax style cast in bronze. I designed it so the locking arm is built into the frame. The action is quite smooth, and the release pressure is just where I want it. Several flaws stand out to me about the fit n finish and the action could be tweaked. I am considering a more modern pin; I've had to repin several times to adjust the action. Obviously this is the prototype, so I would love to hear input/critique as I make improvements for a series. Theo
  7. So ive built my first charcoal forge with a controlled air flow with a 1200w hair dryer. And i was just wondering, at an estimate how hot you think this forge could be getting at? And also with this estimate how long it would take for a railroad spike to reach cherry red colour?
  8. Can't claim this as my own, but I did hold it while the master welded it! Hands are forged out of a couple old wrenches, most of the body came from my old truck after I did lockers and a lift kit. All work was done by my 9 year is daughter. I did pull the wrenches out off the forge and hold them while she hammered, and prep the welds, everything else was all her. Now he stands in the flower bed keeping a watchful eye out for iron butterfly and such.
  9. This “bar light” was designed for a custom space and had a few key design elements that had to be achieved for the customer. 1) Had to light the bar, grill, counter,sink area well enough for a person to operate there safely. 2) No direct light can shine into the faces of people sitting around the near by fire pit. 3) Needed to be decorative but not block the view of the river that flows by the gazebo 4) Fit inside the log truss that forms the one of the 8 sides of this 40+ ft Gazebo 5) Have dragonfly’s. Original conceptual sketch. The light would actually be a piece of art that hid with in it a light. it is 14 ft across and 5.5 ft tall. Design was approved, not having a fabrication table large enough the concept is drawn out to scale on the shop floor. Next I cut the broad leaves, and Dragonfly's from 3/16" sheet metal and forge them in to shape. The 3/8 round rod that will make up the vines gets hammer textured to give it a more receptive look to the human eye. Using wire I am able to measure the length of the vines, cut and shape them to match the drawing. The pieces are then laid on the floor in their respective places. Once all of the pieces have been cut, textured, forged, and descaled I weld them all in place. I moved the piece on to a table at this point, this made it easier to finish cleaning and removing the discoloration, and scale from the forging and welding process. The piece gets a final prep, clear coated, and wired for lights. Here is the complete piece installed
  10. Here it is, coat hook version 5, it's still a work in progress and I'm posting this now to get some feedback before I call it finished. my primary concern is to make this leafy vine like hook unmistakeable from a snake. My second being, is the top of the hook a broad enough curve to not damage coats. Basic profile right after making the holes. Rounded and bent the tops into "figure 8s" notice anything wrong? after fixing the figure 8's and bending the actual hook Side view of the hook, you can see the profile of the curve, (the leaves are about thumb sized if you can't figure out the scale.)
  11. Hi Folks We have just aquired a cast iron cauldron and have no idea of it's original use or age. All thoughts most welcome. Mobile phone in 1 pic to show size. Note grooves each side leading to holes through pivots. Multiple holes around rim suggest it may have had some sort of lid? Thanks Brian Buzzacott name on side would suggest Australian make.
  12. This is some ore I've picked up over the past couple years. The ones with the holes in it I think are unusual. Some of the holes are lined with black and/or a glassy substance. I'm just a hobby rock hound, so I wondered what y'all think. Most of this is from Western Tennessee and some is from Georgia. After breaking some of it apart, it's hard to tell them apart. I took some pieces and heated them with a torch and then I could pick them up with a magnet, so it has some Iron. I may use Lee Sauder's method to check for a percentage. Some also have some quartz like material in the ore, is that normal? The first picture is the small pockets with glassy lining, the second is the dark ore with the red lining. The last one is a big rock, about the size of a football, with all kinds of different looking stuff.
  13. Hello everyone, I'm new to this site, but everyone here seems to give rather in depth answers to other peoples questions, so I figured I would ask one of my own. I just changed the rotors on my vehicle, they seem to be a cast iron of sorts. I was wondering if it is possible to turn them into a knife, or blade of some kind. If I need to build a hot fire and hammer away for days on end, I'm willing to. But I would like any and all pointers. If possible will you try to keep your answers in laymans terms? I am not quite as fluent in the metallurgy lingo as I should be. Thank you for any and all help!
  14. To go along with the thread I started in "Historical Blades" on the bronze age arrowheads and spear tip, I am curious to hear from everyone out there what is the oldest man-made object you own. No meteorites or fossils. Only objects that were shaped or made by a human from materials commonly found on earth. Take a reasonable guess on the age. This is NOT a contest. Pictures are a must! Adding the same photo posted in the other thread. These are my oldest man-made item: Bronze age tips, ~3000 to 5000 years old.
  15. I went to a preview of an Estate Auction in Port Newark, NJ today. Definitely falls into the category of heavy iron. I am standing in front of a 13? yd clamshell scoop, used for dredging in NY harbor. They say it weighs 24,000 lbs. Lots of anchor chain. Some parts out of a big crane. The gear is about 8' diameter. Anchors. From about 1500 lb to 3000 lb.
  16. Hi guys, So I have been blacksmithing for a few months now, only about an hour or two every few weeks because of school. Every time I run into the same problem and every time I tell myself it'll be different. I have a very hard time heating what I put into the forge correctly. Today I was making a hook from 3/8 square stock and at one point I burnt off the end. It seems to always happen. As such I'm scared of keeping it in the forge long enough to even get a decent heat. I have a brake drum forge so I typically have to stick it into the coal at about a 45 degree angle due to the edges of the drum. I am also using a hair dryer which I suspect is blowing wayyyyy too hard. When I took my blacksmithing course at a shop I never had this problem it seems to just heat the iron evenly and with minimal to no burning. Does anyone have some tips for someone with a brake drum forge (other than to get a real forge) to prevent burning but obtain a nice high even heat? Thanks.
  17. This piece comes from a sketch I drew up in the 2011/12 winter. I modified the look to be thin and tall, I just felt like it would look better. All of the iron was forged from 2” x ¼” bar stock, with exception of the cattail stems (1/4” round rod). The frame is textured with “hit & miss” texture, I ran past the confines of the frame because I wanted to add depth to the piece and life. Living things don’t care about the boarders or bounds that you might want them to live with in-they grow were the sun draws them. Adding the dragonflies really brought the piece together and made all aspects of it pop. This piece is all hand forged, and textured, it solid iron, and finished with beeswax. It measures 40” tall and 14”wide. Thanks for looking!!!!
  18. Here are a couple table top/ mantel candle holders I threw together. Dragonfly........... Curly dimple leaf
  19. Hello everyone, When I took my beginning blacksmithing course I remembered it saying we made the S hooks from iron. However, when I go online to pretty much all the blacksmithing sites I can barely find anything about buying iron stock, all I see is steel. I have also never seen iron stock in hardware stores, only steel. Could someone help explain to me if I am missing something? Also, on Anvilfire, there is a page on buying materials and the man says "For decorative ironwork the less expensive steel is used when available but size is often more important than the cost difference." So, is iron the same thing or a different type of steel? Are they used interchangeably? I do remember when I made the S hook it was from 1/2" square rod of something. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  20. Hey folks! This is not quite a blacksmithing event, but there IS molten iron involved. Tomorrow at the Franconia Sculpture Garden in Skandia, MN there is a free iron pour going on! As I understand it, artists will be using/creating molds and then filling them with the good stuff. The event is from 12-5. Franconia Sculpture Park 29836 St. Croix Trail Franconia, MN 55074 For a point of reference, this is about forty-five minutes northeast of the Twin Cities. I don't know if there's anybody but Stephen Olivo and me up here, but you are all welcome. For more details, just google Franconia Iron Pour. See you there!
  21. heloo people, i am not a real black smith or anything but i am an enthusiastic new metal worker and i make improvised swords and stuff i live in quite an urbanised area but there arent really any advanced hardware stores around, so i usually have to make a barbecue fire or use the kitchen stove and collect junk :D and i dont have access to proper steels. recently i started work on a knife, it normal iron,the type used by welders for making gates and ladders ( its not steel as far as i know) , and i need to harden it as much as i can because right now its not much use as the edge isnt durable, what exactly should i do? i have no access to torches or a forge or power tools, basically im in the medieval times :D what should i use to quench this knife? used motor oil or water ? pleeease help me out i really need help
  22. Well, this is the finished product of my first solid fuel forge. Here are a few pics and am looking for constructive criticism as I am still learning. It seems to work great and I can heat steel very quickly when it's hot. Want to upgrade to a real forge blower, but can't afford yet.
  23. I found a 150 lb. Hay Budden anvil on craigslist. It seems to be in fine condition minus some gnarly edges. How good do edges have to be for them to still be usable? The Seller wants $325. I would like to try and talk the price down. Is this a resonable deal?
  24. I am more or less of a beginner and am looking for two pair of tongs that are the most versatile, and that fit my needs. I generally forge round and square rods that are 1/2 inch and under. What type of tong would handle these types of stock well? I get the impression that V-bit tongs and Wolf-jaw tongs are best for my applications. Any thoughts?