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I Forge Iron

santisandreas

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    http://asantis.wix.com/santisandreas

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    Cyprus, Larnaca

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  1. Hehe, Nice one Buzzkill. Hydrochloric Acid Is much stronger acid to use than Citric Acid. Can I use that? Or is it unwise?
  2. I have attempted today to derust some screws I had Lying around with Hydrochloric Acid and then quench them into a Soda solution with water to neutralize the acid. This leaves a sort of grey finish. I wiped it and then left it as such. But I am worried that if they are not coated with paint or atleast oil they will begin to rust very fast. Does this apply to Stainless steel as well? In the case of stainless what must I do after the Passivation procedure to protect the piece from rust etc...?
  3. Using Hydrochloric Acid to passivate a stainless steel Knife is a too strong solution? On a 1/10 ratio per liter? After the process what finish do you suggest to polish the piece?
  4. Thank you Everyone for your advise. This is truly helpful. I will look into which Stainless I can buy Locally and update you as I progress.
  5. Hm, I see. Thank you for the advice. I will look into passivation and see how that can be done. How about chrome plating with electricity?
  6. Thank you for the quick reply Steve. Ok i will look for 440. Do you know though about its molecular structure and how it changes during forging? Specificly if it will be antibacterial after forging? How to polish it?
  7. Greetings everyone, Its been some time for me to visit the forum. I have an interesting case for a job I was hired to do. The client requires forged surgical tools to be made. The only supply I have here is 316 stainless steel and I hope this is suitable for the project. My only concern is whether the antibacterial properties of the Stainless will change in the process of forging. Do you know if this is the case? If yes, what methods must be used after finishing a surgical scalpel for instance to return it to its non porous nature? Furthermore, which method is best to use for forging? A coal forge? or A gas forge? I believe it is the gas better but still I would like to hear your thoughts. Thank you for your time in advance.!!!
  8. Hello everyone, I am in the market for replacing my grinder as well so I was reading posts on the forum about different models. I quite liked the bader when I saw it on their website but the problem is that it will have to be shipped from the states to Cyprus which makes it not worth it. Can you suggest a good belt grinder in Europe? is there a dealer of bader in the EU? Thanks in advance!
  9. Actually wood is out of the question because of the fire department! (they don't allow it!) But yes I will consider if the best solution is either brick floor or earthen. But after the suggestion by Beaudry I think I am quite leaning towards the brick floor with sand or mortar beneath them and a good pair of shoes made by order with a soft sole and some good protection. I believe that it will be easy to clean and provide the uneven gripping points so that the legs are more stable while forging. Thanks to everyone who posted and for your very informative advice! if you would like to add something else feel free! Kind Regards, Andreas Santis!
  10. Hi Beaudry, do you have an image to post so I can see what it is exactly.? What is the sand slurry? the bricks you are talking about are the orange small bricks which are 20*10cm and 5cm thick? They are usually used on pavements and on decorating a road which is considered to be very old as in within the center of Larnaca for example. I think the most commonly available bricks are the ones on the middle image here but I like better the last one which is darker for a forge! And btw that is a great idea! thanks a lot!
  11. hey everyone! Yes, Frosty again you are right from the first assumption in the post! The problem I've been facing with my concrete floor is firstly posture because it is really difficult for me to hammer on the anvil and stand straight due to scoliosis I've been suffering for almost my entire life! I have begun to swim and do areal silks to improve posture for the long run. Secondly, we have a shortage of shops here in Cyprus who stock good working shoes and any attempts to order online have proven fatal due to the sizes each company makes. I've ordered a pair of welder shoes from Amazon in size 45 and when they arrived it was almost size 47 for my legs! I sent them back and took another pair from another company and it still didn't fit well so I just quit the whole deal! But yes now to think of it I think it will be better to have a concrete floor and maybe I will make a gravel, sand mixture as you suggested only in the forging triangle! Anyway, it is pretty late here so we will talk tomorrow! Thanks everyone for all the comments!
  12. Hello, beaudry, Thanks for the info! so there is no need to do a particular recipe for the flooring? Do you know of any of them that will make the floor more hardened?
  13. Hello JHCC, Thanks a lot for the info, yes I had that problem and now i will use google from now on!
  14. Hello Everyone, I would like to start a post dedicated to the options a blacksmith can have for a floor in his or her workshop. I've looked around as much as I could within these busy days to find some posts and noticed that there is not a dedicated post which highlights the options/pros/cons of each type of floor. I have read that one of the best floors is the Adobe/earthen floor in terms of physique but I have yet to find a really good guide for how to go about making such a floor and how to harden or soften it if necessary. Any info on this matter is welcomed since I am thinking that this will be the floor that I will be making for my new workshop in Larnaca. Are there any books that explain how to make such a floor? How does the earthen floor come into conflict with a windy weather and windows open during the summer time? (will I be breathing the sand if there is wind through the workshop?) or can it become hardened enough in order to not have any particles dispersed through the air? Another question is if it will absorb the steel dust produced from grinding or if I will have to do a dedicated grinding room with a concrete floor so that it will be easier to clean and have a ventilation system in the room that will get rid of the particles immediately! Next is the option of a wooden floor or wooden tiles that will provide a smooth concrete-like surface which will be coated with a varnish that will be inflammatory (if possible)! My only question is if there is a type of wood that is better against fire hazards and will be ok by the inspection of the fire department because they are very strict in the safety of the workshops built within the town! And lastly is there another type of flooring that I could be considering that is easy on the legs throughout the day? P.S. if there is another post which covers the matter that I haven't found please direct me to that one and I will erase this one! Happy smithing Year to everyone!
  15. Hello Ede, no i do not any brazing and the 4 temperaments that you mentioned do not apply to me at all, except if you consider that while cutting a piece with an angle grinder for a second and not wearing the respirator is considered ignorance. Mainly i have been wearing the respirator and in the future i will buy a wet saw for cutting steel to minimize the steel dust particles in the workshop but this is a later investment. I have been thinking about the maxi-grinder for a while but i think it is not wet. But since I have high costs at the moment with my new workshop I might consider buying a better grinder later on just like the wet saw. And of course I wash my hands regularly! Thanks for the thoughts though and i will keep close tabs on this for a long time. The Gas forge has arrived so i will be switching to it very soon and see how that goes.
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