Michael

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About Michael

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • Interests
    Old Tools, woodworking, blacksmithing (of course!), poker, cycling, Top Gear, The Woodwright's Shop, books, my lovely wife, my above average kid etc, not necessarily in that (or any other) order.

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Antique hand tools, smithing
  • Occupation
    Paralegal

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  1. Glad to inspire someone, leaf looks good, love the texture you got on it. Couple of tips on the spring fuller from the person who showed it to me, the top bar should overhang the bottom bar about an inch, so that you can lift the top bar with the hot material to get it under there, and it should look like a duck when its done.
  2. I pull out the scythe when the grass in the yard gets too tall to mow. The combination of sunny weeks and rainy weekends and before you know it you've lost the dog in the grass again!
  3. I just recently made this out of 30 inchs of 1/2 round stock. Not interchangable dies but useful for fullering. Another smith gave me a dead simple diagram and it took an hour, a hammer and a vise. . Need to make one out of spring steel next
  4. Local garage sale. $60. built in 1988 according to the tag on the machine.
  5. This is brilliant! Gonna work up a few rebar openers this weekend.
  6. Knocked out a pair of holdfasts for a woodworking gift exchange this holiday season. 5/8 stock (hard to find unplated 3/4 stock locally) Good square corner practice.
  7. Thanks for this detail Frosty, when I put my gas forge together, 5? 6 years ago, a helpful hardware store employee swaged a water specific quick connect on the end of my propane hose. It has worked like a charm for all this while but the propane hose is getting a bit stiff in its old age and I doubt I can convince anyone to fab up a replacement. Great old hardware store, since closed. The going out of business sale was epic! Drawers of soft iron rivets from the 1930's followed me home, along with Yankee screwdriver bits by the bag and more soapstone holders than I've been able to give away to fellow smiths. I'll start looking for copper flare tools and tubing at garage sales.
  8. Spent the usual Black Friday at the forge. Gratefully raining in the Bay Area, so dodging drips in front of the gas forge till the propane ran out. Made a couple of hooks, paw/leash for dog people, big hook from a big nail for a co worker. Found a space for the dragon, on top of the case forge (he was going to be a gate handle but he "bites" a little too much for that) The coal forge is under a leaky section of roof and I have concerns about rain water and coal ash destroying my firepot, so it stays covered in the rain till I can fix the roof/chimney junction.
  9. Made this half a dozen years ago, as a prototype for a metal version. Mounted on the roof of my smithy. Made out of teak it has weathered the winters well and hasn't fallen apart yet. I have the patterns still for the likely sheet copper and steel version. Next one may have smith and striker. smithgig
  10. when I was using charcoal I'd go thru a 5 gallon bucket every 2 hours or so. If I recall correctly that was about 8 lbs of charcoal, more or less, so another hour for 10 seems reasonable within my own experience. I did find I went through a LOT more water, damping down the fire and keeping it from spreading, working charcoal. Easily half of my 4 gallon quench bucket would be gone after 2 hours. My forge was bottom blown, don't know if that makes any difference. The difference switching to coal/coke was astounding! See how small a fire you can still work effectively in. I walk away from a charcoal fire and come back in 5 minutes to find the whole pile of fuel burning.
  11. Lit the coal forge in the suburbs last week, hammered out some legs and feet on a figurative sculpture, some flower finials that will be come hooks for the lovely wife's trivet collection, and finally got 200 lbs of coal out of those UV degradable bags and into a bin before they became a spontaneous pile of coal.
  12. I leveled my anvil stump(LiveOak) with a router, and routed 3 "feet" at roughly 60 degrees around the base of the stump, a little less than an inch deep so there's a tripod-y sort of base to the stump. then I set each "foot" into an empty tuna can with a bit of polyurethane in it and left it for a few days to wick the poly into the end grain. Flipped the stump over to let the poly dry and painted the last of the poly over the end grain between the "feet". Stays pretty stable on the uneven concrete of the smithy and no rot from the leaky patio roof.
  13. There was a demo of this Seahorse form at a Hammer In in Santa Cruz two weeks ago. the one on the left was done at the site, the hot one this past Saturday at home when I should have been painting the house. 5 inches of 5/8 square to start, there's also a 3/4 square one I started. The demonstrator was doing a big version this past weekend in 2 1/2 inch stock with a power hammer and team strikers
  14. Corner of the Patio, forge, blower, tool rack and 104 lb PW, Pair of leg vises on a stand. May have posted this before but I don't see it on the thread