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Found 14 results

  1. So I've read through here a few times but I can't seem to find the answer to my question, so, what sort of etch/finish should I use for blades and knives that will prevent rusting but also not ruin the heat treatment? Also, if anyone can tell me how to blacken blades that would be appreciated, as well as if anyone has any information on russeting. Thanks in advance.
  2. So my question is, if I were to heat a piece of steel to a glowing yellow and then stick it in kaowool so that the whole piece is covered, would that slow down the cooling enough for the steel to be properly annealed?
  3. Ok, so most of you would be familiar with the process of case hardening mild steel/iron to form high carbon steel. I had a thought (and we all know how dangerous that is) to use the case hardening technique to adjust the levels of alloying elements in steel. So here's my rough outline of the process that I'm thinking of: 1) Let a piece of steel (any kind, preferably scrap. would be easiest in bar form) sit in a normal camp fire for a good few hours, possibly repeat the process multiple times. I've found that when I have done that, a lot of scale is formed on the surface which when chipp
  4. So I live in Queensland, Australia, and I'm wondering what sort of formal blacksmithing qualifications there are and where I can find them, both links to website and places. If you know of any, please do share. Thanks for your time - White Nomad
  5. I’m shopping for some tongs. I’ve seen dozens of websites offering all sorts of tongs for blacksmiths and a few of them mention that their tongs can or can not be adjusted for size. My question is, what should you look for to know you’re getting a solid pair of tongs that you can continue to use and resize for a good long life? Is if the size of stock they came from? Is it the metal they’re made of? Is it the size of the boss or the rivet?
  6. Hi there everyone, just kicking off with the blacksmithing trade hoping to get into it. Slowly collecting tools, made a coal forge the other day. Luckily I picked up this anvil for $150 which has some major damage. Not too sure on how to restore the hardy holes. No idea what's going on with the rivet either. I've been told from about hard facing with a welder and also milling, forming lump of steel to weld on the break. Not too sure yet. From tip of horn to break 650mm Anvil face width 150mm Height 350mm Horn length 300mm Any advice, tips, tricks and inf
  7. I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets
  8. Does anyone know anything about Maxon Premix Burners? Someone gave me this and they said it's a gas forge. I have no use for it so I'm planning to sell. Any idea how much it's worth? It does get power it's just too rusty to work. Thanks!
  9. So I'm trying to learn more about forging. I'd like to get into tool, decoration, and probably weapon making. Everywhere I've looked has advised a larger anvil 75lbs+ but I can't seem to understand why. I understand the difference in types of anvil except for weight. Does an anvil weighing 150lbs have an advantage over the 100lbs of the same make, if so, what's the difference? Better bounce back or what? Everyone talks about how weight matters for your application but I've yet to read from any book, forum, or site as to why it matters. Thanks, Zack
  10. tl;dr - how much is fair to pay for S7 punches from tablet press. Some dies available too. I have an opportunity to buy a 10 or so used (and defaced) punches from pharmaceutical tablet presses. He said make an offer. They are S7 steel (he said he has spec sheet) Not sure on brand. The round punch faces are the size of either regular Advil to large Tums antacid chewables. The oblong faced punches are the size of a Tylenol There are some dies available too. I recently took a class on making chests and the instructor had some re-purposed punches that worked
  11. Okay, So I'm working on getting a forge up and running, and I really don't have any questions about that. My question is concerning Anvils. I have a set of Auto body Dollies that I've used once, and never picked them up again. I know they're built for hammer on metal abuse, but I figured I would ask first. If I welded one or all of them to a post, maybe so they fit in it like a hardy hole tool, so I can interchange them? I'm strapped for cash and would like to get a usable anvil as cheaply as possible, but I wanted to get a second opinion so as to make as few mistakes as possible.
  12. I have just started to forge, and I have a question about metals. Can someone please tell me which metals are toxic when burnt and metals that are safe? I know galvanized metals are toxic but how do you identify them?
  13. Greetings all! I am new to this site and have read a lot of the posts, along with a lot of research outside this site. I do have a few questions on my build that I cant seem to find answers too. I have been told that 240-350 cubic inch per one burner. Which number is closer? I don't want to build a "cheap" forge, but I sure don't want to pay an arm and a leg for some thing I might only take up as a hobby. I do have a blower to use on build, but I have recently read that it might be too weak. CFM isn't listed. I want to say its 1550 rpm. Most likely its out of a old furnace. It also says "#1 T
  14. So, I got an idea on how to make arrowheads really fast and easy, but I'm not sure if it will work, so I'm asking here. Would it work, to take a small pipe, let's say 10mm inner diameter, something around 1mm thick, and flatten out some part of it and then either hammer the point in or do it with a grinder or bolt cutters and then leaving something about 2-3 cm left for a seat, making the whole head around 6-7 cm long, then cutting a small slot into the shaft, then sanding about 5mm of it down a bit, to make a small cone, that way it will compress a bit when put into the seat, i'll take some
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