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Found 21 results

  1. Hello all, I'm looking for pieces of literature, imagery, art or anything that shows blacksmiths of the medieval and ancient worlds, particularly about their forging practices and just any general information anyone may have. Anything is appreciated. Thanks - Novak
  2. So, I'm looking to get a relatively small induction furnace to melt and cast copper for making bars and other things from scrap. I'm looking online but all I find are those $300 induction ones and I don't overly trust them. Does anyone know where I can find a decent induction furnace for less than $500 AUD, and yeah I live in Australia so if it ships there, that would be great. I'm not too concerned at the size, 1KG will be enough.
  3. So I have a knife I'm making (what a shock) and I plan to use some red wood that I found to make the handle. I don't have the equipment to stabilized the wood and I know that moisture and such will cause the wood to warp if it's not stabilized. My question is, if I use linseed oil on the wood, will it protect the wood from absorbing excess moisture and warping? Alternatively, is there any way that I can stabilize the wood without having to make some elaborate vacuum chamber? Please let me know what you think. Thanks for reading. - Novak
  4. Just as the title suggests. I have a small 370W Ryobi bench sander and grinder, and I'm wondering if there are any modifications I can make to it to help with knife making? link removed Something to help remove more stock, or to prolong belt life, increase torque, reduce heat from the motor, pretty much anything that will improve the machine. Thanks in advance -Novak
  5. for a school project i am planning to make jewelry and armor out of metal, and ive seen the hacksmiths (and others) videos on mini arc furnaces. i am planning to build one, would anyone know how if using thin walls on the box would end in it ither exploding, or cracking, or something worce? thx for viewing this if anyone dose
  6. So I've read through here a few times but I can't seem to find the answer to my question, so, what sort of etch/finish should I use for blades and knives that will prevent rusting but also not ruin the heat treatment? Also, if anyone can tell me how to blacken blades that would be appreciated, as well as if anyone has any information on russeting. Thanks in advance.
  7. I hope this is the right forum. I'm saving a bit of money to start up a small forge (I've never done any real blacksmithing in my life). This has probably been asked to death so sorry in advance, but how strong do you have to be to get started? I'm not the most fit person, most of my strength comes from working on trucks, but I'm assuming it's mostly about technique and you get used to it with time. I bought a two pound cross peen that I'm going to be using.
  8. So my question is, if I were to heat a piece of steel to a glowing yellow and then stick it in kaowool so that the whole piece is covered, would that slow down the cooling enough for the steel to be properly annealed?
  9. I'm not sure where to post this, but I figured here seeing as it's to do with reactions and such. So the story is, I'd made myself a machete from some mild steel flatbar (not sure what SAE exactly, just from the hardware store) and I was using it while gardening just to see how it worked. I was hacking into a palm tree which had to be removes and the sap/tree juice was staining the metal a weird blue purple colour. This coating would really whipe off and I had to take to the blade with some fine grit paper to remove it. Does anyone know what's going on here? Is something in the tree reacting with the metal? If you know anything do let me know.
  10. Ok, so most of you would be familiar with the process of case hardening mild steel/iron to form high carbon steel. I had a thought (and we all know how dangerous that is) to use the case hardening technique to adjust the levels of alloying elements in steel. So here's my rough outline of the process that I'm thinking of: 1) Let a piece of steel (any kind, preferably scrap. would be easiest in bar form) sit in a normal camp fire for a good few hours, possibly repeat the process multiple times. I've found that when I have done that, a lot of scale is formed on the surface which when chipped and scraped away, leaves a very black, malleable piece of what I'm assuming is wrought iron. This is used to remove any pre-existing carbon and alloying elements in the steel. (This step can be skipped by just starting with wrought iron bars). 2) Use rough sand paper to scratch the surface of the bar. This increases the surface area of the metal which in theory should allow for a faster reaction (My grade 11 chemistry coming into play) 3) Collect the alloying elements you desire to use, if you're unsure of what you need to make a certain type of steel, you can google the steel composition and elements for the respective steel online. 4) Sand down the alloying elements and collect the filings. You will need the small particles to increase the surface area of the mixture. Depending on the size of the iron bar, you will need quite a lot of filings. This step can be skipped by buying the alloying elements in granulated form, generally pottery stores and firework supply stores will sell metal powders for glazing and firework stars. 5) Measure out the alloying powders by weight for the respective steel you wish to make, then mix the powders with non-raising flour, salt and water. This will create a gooey slurry. 6) Cover the iron bar with the mixture and let it dry. Then once the paste is dry, cover with clay and let that dry. 7) Place in your furnace/forge to heat up. I'm not sure for how long, maybe a few hours once it's red hot. You want the iron bar in the core to heat up a lot. 8) Take the clay pod out once it's finished heating and break out the iron. Quench the new bar in either water or oil or brine, whichever you want. The theory behind this idea is that as the clay pod heats up, the iron will heat to a white/bright orange and the alloy metals will melt and mix onto the semi liquid iron bar. However, this process would only affect the outer layer of the iron bar, so you would either need to use a thinner piece to get full penetration, or you could draw out the bar, fold it over itself and then forge weld it together, like making a Damascus billet. This would result in the alloyed outer layer being mixed in throughout the final bar. So what do you guys think? Would this work, or is it a pipe dream? Also if anyone has a similar process mentioned in the past please feel free to direct me to it to read over. Thanks for your time - White Nomad
  11. So I live in Queensland, Australia, and I'm wondering what sort of formal blacksmithing qualifications there are and where I can find them, both links to website and places. If you know of any, please do share. Thanks for your time - White Nomad
  12. I’m shopping for some tongs. I’ve seen dozens of websites offering all sorts of tongs for blacksmiths and a few of them mention that their tongs can or can not be adjusted for size. My question is, what should you look for to know you’re getting a solid pair of tongs that you can continue to use and resize for a good long life? Is if the size of stock they came from? Is it the metal they’re made of? Is it the size of the boss or the rivet?
  13. Hi there everyone, just kicking off with the blacksmithing trade hoping to get into it. Slowly collecting tools, made a coal forge the other day. Luckily I picked up this anvil for $150 which has some major damage. Not too sure on how to restore the hardy holes. No idea what's going on with the rivet either. I've been told from about hard facing with a welder and also milling, forming lump of steel to weld on the break. Not too sure yet. From tip of horn to break 650mm Anvil face width 150mm Height 350mm Horn length 300mm Any advice, tips, tricks and info would be greatly much appreciated. Cheers guys.
  14. I'm in the process of building my first venturi forge. It'll be a simple forge based off of Michael Porter's book. The main question I have is one I can't seem to find an answer to. I read LP rated teflon tape is a no-no for pressurized gas lines. So properly rated dope paste is what I hear some people use. My question about that is do you use pipe dope on your lines? If so, do you use pipe dope on your high pressure regulator, the line coming from it, the pressure gauge on the regulator, the quick shut off valve, and the backside of your burner where the line connects? I assume the last gets a little too warm for dope to work correctly, but I want to know what you guys do anyway. My concern is dope getting the regulator, gauge, and possibly the burner all fouled up. My other concern is having a gas leak and potentially losing my shop and/or some parts that I was born with. I know that it's a touchy subject, so I'll state for the record that I take full responsibility for everything that goes right or wrong in my shop and on my property. I'm only asking what you folks do for your venturi forges. I am not asking for you to tell me what to do. If you know of a resource I can use to get that information, I would greatly appreciate that as well. Thanks, Patrick
  15. Does anyone know anything about Maxon Premix Burners? Someone gave me this and they said it's a gas forge. I have no use for it so I'm planning to sell. Any idea how much it's worth? It does get power it's just too rusty to work. Thanks!
  16. So I'm trying to learn more about forging. I'd like to get into tool, decoration, and probably weapon making. Everywhere I've looked has advised a larger anvil 75lbs+ but I can't seem to understand why. I understand the difference in types of anvil except for weight. Does an anvil weighing 150lbs have an advantage over the 100lbs of the same make, if so, what's the difference? Better bounce back or what? Everyone talks about how weight matters for your application but I've yet to read from any book, forum, or site as to why it matters. Thanks, Zack
  17. tl;dr - how much is fair to pay for S7 punches from tablet press. Some dies available too. I have an opportunity to buy a 10 or so used (and defaced) punches from pharmaceutical tablet presses. He said make an offer. They are S7 steel (he said he has spec sheet) Not sure on brand. The round punch faces are the size of either regular Advil to large Tums antacid chewables. The oblong faced punches are the size of a Tylenol There are some dies available too. I recently took a class on making chests and the instructor had some re-purposed punches that worked well for cutting "D" shaped slots and key holes. It seems like there are quite a few other potential uses for these (touchmark, chisels, punches, etc). I'm not sure about reshaping the tooling into bar stock, but could definitely reshape the ends to make chisels and such. I have the equipment to heat treat S7 too. I don't want to get ripped off and I don't want to insult the guy (and there may be more punches available in the future). I've attached an image that is similar to what the instructor had and what the guy said he had. Thoughts on a fair price? I'm not looking for the deal of the century, and am willing to pay a fair price, just don't want to get taken for a ride.
  18. Okay, So I'm working on getting a forge up and running, and I really don't have any questions about that. My question is concerning Anvils. I have a set of Auto body Dollies that I've used once, and never picked them up again. I know they're built for hammer on metal abuse, but I figured I would ask first. If I welded one or all of them to a post, maybe so they fit in it like a hardy hole tool, so I can interchange them? I'm strapped for cash and would like to get a usable anvil as cheaply as possible, but I wanted to get a second opinion so as to make as few mistakes as possible. This isn't a picture of my dollies, but I have one of each of these.
  19. I have just started to forge, and I have a question about metals. Can someone please tell me which metals are toxic when burnt and metals that are safe? I know galvanized metals are toxic but how do you identify them?
  20. Greetings all! I am new to this site and have read a lot of the posts, along with a lot of research outside this site. I do have a few questions on my build that I cant seem to find answers too. I have been told that 240-350 cubic inch per one burner. Which number is closer? I don't want to build a "cheap" forge, but I sure don't want to pay an arm and a leg for some thing I might only take up as a hobby. I do have a blower to use on build, but I have recently read that it might be too weak. CFM isn't listed. I want to say its 1550 rpm. Most likely its out of a old furnace. It also says "#1 Thermal Protected" so I am not too sure if it shuts down at a specific temp or what that means. As for the burner(s) I have seen so much talk on one way or another for burner builds. My forge was going to be around 600 cubic inches. I do want to make it smaller if I can. I can get the ceramic wool in 1" or 2" from what I am told easily. (we will see when the time comes) Along with cast-able refractory if I need it. I was going to line the inside of the stainless steel shell but I was told it might break and fall into it. is this true? If I am doing a blower + propane setup do I need an elbow before it hits the burner? (to mix the gas I assume) There plans too be 3 doors on it. ! back door that I can take down if I need to do larger items, and 2 front doors that swing out and to either side with an exhaust hole in them when they are closed. There will be a small porch as well. What (if any) is the ratio of burner to exhaust hole size? I plan on making it an outside forge, that is semi portable. If I make the bed or floor do I put it on the blanket or the cast-able refractory, or just cast it along with the rest the shell? As for the propane setup I was planning on running 1 BBQ sized bottle. Will it freeze up? I'm sorry for all the questions, but from what I have read there is a ALOT of knowledgeable people here. Where I live I cant seem to find any one near that has any info. I tell people I want to build a forge and I get either "what's that" or "why?!" (mid west Montana) If there is any one that wants to talk one on one I will be fine with that as well. Just figured that a few of the many questions I had where not listed (or I overlooked them) in the forums and would be helpful for others as well. The more I know, the more questions I have it seems. I thought this would be some simple project in the start but I have created a monster of one for me! :unsure: P.S. I know this belongs in a different thread but I will ask here first since I have asked a lot from you guys/gals as is. I am also looking for an anvil but don't want to buy it if I cant see/feel it. What stores or places would have such an item that would be worth buying? Again so sorry for the long post. I want to get this right and not have to scrap it and start over. If you need more info or questions for me please feel free to ask.
  21. So, I got an idea on how to make arrowheads really fast and easy, but I'm not sure if it will work, so I'm asking here. Would it work, to take a small pipe, let's say 10mm inner diameter, something around 1mm thick, and flatten out some part of it and then either hammer the point in or do it with a grinder or bolt cutters and then leaving something about 2-3 cm left for a seat, making the whole head around 6-7 cm long, then cutting a small slot into the shaft, then sanding about 5mm of it down a bit, to make a small cone, that way it will compress a bit when put into the seat, i'll take some pics if you ask me to so, please let me know if you have heard of this method, or even tried it yourself, i would really like to know if this works
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