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Found 4 results

  1. Hi, I got this hay budden as a throw in on a package deal because of the horn damage, the face is nice, has really strong rebound i really like it I'm using now and plan on keeping it as my user but the horn is really dinged up bad and caved in like someone used a air powered chisel on it, I've been reading for the past two weeks on repairs searching this forum but most of the pictures won't open so it's hard to get a reference point, and from what I gathered my choices are to leave it alone and use something else as a horn I do have a spare anvil, take a flap disk to it or weld and as far as welding I've seen using 6010, 6013, 7014, 7018 I'm not a professional welder so that would be my last option. Please share your opinions, maybe pictures of anvils that had this problem and were repaired
  2. Ok so I've got a old 321 pound Peter Wright Anvil. I was wondering if it will effect the value or worth of the anvil if I were to do some fringing on the top face. Mainly along the edges because there is some dings and chips along the sides. I'd like to grind a little to reshape at least one edge but if it's gonna mess with the value or anything like that then I'll just continue using a large separate piece of steel for the sharp edges. Any suggestions and or tips would be greatly appreciated Thanks.
  3. Well, in another thread folks said to quit typing and get out in the shop. I did. Was doing some pre quench and temper sanding and got into some belts I had bought a few weeks back. OH MY GOSH. I did not expect to see this. Pull a belt out of the roll and bam it turns into a coiled mass. Two arms, an elbow and the back of a chair plus one knee is needed to untangle.... At least at this point on my experience curve.
  4. Many of us blacksmiths also do modern day welding. Well, as we all know weld prep usually takes much longer than the actual welding. And is critical to a good weld. I was grinding some plate to make a bevel for welding. It was slow as surface prep is but then I thought about "surface area and contact" as Brian is always preaching. So I went ahead and used my side grinder to push in (using the edge not the side of the grinder) some closely spaced divets in to the edge of the plate. This created a serated edge at the desired bevel angle. Then I came back and ground away all the high spots. So this is like drawing out. I found this put a bevel much faster. Try it. Blacksmithing concept applied to modern day work and productiveity. PLus. Weld prep sucks and anything to make it go faster is a good thing. Lemme know how it goes.