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About arkie

  • Rank
    Cranky Old Guy

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  • Location
    NW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing and welding

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  1. Lou, if you now have the hardie hole a uniform size all the way, then to keep from having to file more, you might do what I have done on some repurposed hardie shanks...I ground them down with an angle grinder. If you grind only 1/16" on two adjacent faces of the shank, then you'll be there. MUCH easier to remove that small amount of stock on the shank with an angle grinder than trying to take more off the inside of the hole with a file. You might have to grind down any future 1" shanks, but that might hold you a spell until you get the urge to file the inside of the hole some more....
  2. No cross dressing allowed on this site........
  3. Chuck, in lieu of taking classes, have you checked into any blacksmithing clubs or organizations in your area? You can get some great, FREE instructions from experienced smiths and most are eager to teach their skills to those needing the instructions. Meetings in our area are scattered over quite a large area and members often travel 2 hours or more to attend the monthly meetings just for that reason. It's warming to see someone experience that "Ah,,, hah!!" moment when they see how something is properly done, and then they do it themselves.
  4. Lou, I've found that, in my case, slow file cutting is 9 times out of 10 a dull file that I think is still good but it just "ain't" ...I am just too cheep and hate to give it up and buy a new one, LOL. I'll get a new one and then think to myself... "myself, why didn't you do this earlier??" Patience, grasshopper.
  5. Don't know what kind of anvil you have, but many have wrought iron bodies which is soft enough to file. I would simply file the inside of your hardie hole to a consistent square. Much easier than trying to forge tools to fit it.
  6. Charles, glad to hear things are now going in a positive direction for Sandy and you. Good news is always welcome!
  7. Postman's Mousehole Forge book is facinating reading into how anvils were made way back when.
  8. The UV can act quickly, too! We had some guys who bought some white plastic bags to store coal in 50#. They stored them outside their shops, in the sun, and it didn't take long for the bags to split open and spill out the coal. Had a mess to clean up. After that, they started putting them INSIDE the shop.
  9. I also understand, talking to some oldtime farriers, that the depression and circular rim helps keep the grip should the tongs last long enough to show wear. The rim would tend to wear down but still maintain good contact across the space of the jaw as opposed to a flat bar-like jaw...dunno. Those must have been some OLD farriers to have worn down tong jaws.......
  10. Tips: If someone is using plastic 5 gal. paint, etc. buckets for storing small stuff, you can easily bust out the plastic bottom when dropping steel parts in it. Cut out a piece of plywood, 1/4" to 1/2" or whatever you have, to fit the inside bottom and let that absorb the shock. I have all my plastic storage buckets like that. Another thing I do for the handles is to cut a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe about 3-4" long, split it lengthwise with a hacksaw, glue the halves back together with PVC cement over the cheap plastic handle. Makes for a easy carry for a heavy bucket and long lasting handle.
  11. There is a recent thread on wrought it out here. Pictures and descriptions. Saves reposting a lot of info.
  12. There is nothing wrong with taking pride in your work. I'm sure that will show up in your smithing as well.
  13. Ya know...after I built that stand several years ago, I read the same thing; that it was better to stack the 4x4's vertical...too late now!! Ain't about to take that bugger apart!!! Maybe on the next one. I think there is more lost energy in these old arms than there is in the anvil stand!!!!!!!!!! I did notice one thing though, that I originally had the anvil on a stump about the same diameter as the block construction is wide and found that the block was more stable, even not being buried in the soil but rather riding on gravel. Anthony, just throw a tarp over the coal and weigh down the edges. Wet won't hurt it, but as Jennifer said in a post, it's a pain to break it free when it freezes...and it DOES freeze in OK. I'm not sure, so don't quote me on this, but one smith told me that Saltfork gets their coal from the mine at Vinita, OK. Maybe a Saltfork member here on IFI can verify that. If so, it's good enough coal. Our organization uses the Vinita's bituminous. Look up the Phoenix Mining Co., Kelly mine on the entrynet.
  14. Anthony, when you assemble your anvil stand from the dimensional lumber, I would strongly recommend either screwing or bolting the individual pieces to each other in addition to any gluing and straping. Better still, run some allthread through them as best as possible. You would be surprised with heaving hammering, how soon the unsecured individual boards will work loose. If you can get several 4x4's they work great as well. Some folks bolt them vertical, some horizontal like this. These are all bolted together with 6" lag bolts (not visible). This was made square so I can move it around easily with a hand cart. This one is now several years old and solid as a rock.
  15. ...and, the antique dealers tend to drive the bids and prices up beyond reason.