arkie

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About arkie

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    Cranky Old Guy

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    NW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing and welding

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  1. Dasher, see if there might be any identifying marks on the tubing that may indicate the manufacturer. It's usually stamped on the pin or box end if you have that. If not, you might try to contact several tubing manufacturers down under and see it you can worm your way into their engineering departments. They might give you an insight into the composition of the tubing. Sounds like it may be an alloy for severe service rather than simple 4130 steel. If you are successful in contacting any tech folks, be sure to give them any and all info you have and assure them that you are not the competitor, just a blacksmith trying to figure out how to work with and treat some tubing.
  2. Dasher, from your description of the dimensions of the steel, it is almost certainly tubing. Now, tubing can also be made of various compositions including alloys similar to drill pipe and drill collars. Some may indeed be hard to work with. As Frosty mentioned, avoid the connection ends due to the ways they are made. Correction, I erroneously called the drill pipe I referenced 4140... should have said 4130...typo. FYI, drill pipe and some tubing is made from three pieces; the tubular part and two ends, one male (the "pin") and the other female(the "box). The pieces these days are joined by friction welding, where the joints are shoved together and spun at very high RPMs. Good luck working with that stuff!
  3. Dasher, it appears that you have drill pipe as opposed to sucker rod, as Irondragon alluded to. Drill pipe has a bore for fluid transmission whereas sucker rod (sometimes called drill rod in some countries) is a solid rod. Here in the U. S., drill pipe is used to drill wells and other types of boreholes, whereas sucker rod is used on a surface pumping unit along with a downhole pump to extract fluids to the surface. Drill pipe can range in size from around 2" O.D. to over 6" O. D. Some pipe can have rather thick walls. If you cut drill pipe lengthwise and flattened it, my hat's off to you! In some drilling operations here in the U. S. tubing is used instead of conventional drill pipe due to it's thinner walls, smaller diameter and flexibility in directional drilling. If you cut and flattened the pipe it may actually be what we call tubing. All that being said, it may be quite a search, possibly including contacting the vendor themselves, to find out what the composition of the material is. It usually ranges from mild steel to special alloys for temperature, strength, corrosion resistance, deep depths, high pressure etc. If you go to search for vendor information it would behoove you to accurately describe if you are working with drill pipe, tubing or sucker rod, as the compositions range widely. As a starter, just google "drill pipe" and go through the results to narrow your search. You might also google "oil field tubing" to get info on that tubular product. https://www.google.com/search?q=drill+pipe&oq=drill+pipe&aqs=chrome..69i57.3878j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 This may also help; looks like this particular drill pipe is 4140. https://www.spmetals.net/aisi-4130-alloysteel/4130-alloysteel-pipes-tubes-tubing/alloysteel-pipes-type-aisi-4130-drill-pipes/
  4. If you had read the thread, he mentioned earlier that he can't get Amazon shipments in Argentina..... "Plus, amazon doesn't make shippings to my country."
  5. BOA July 2019 meetings; dates and locations: NW Chapter, Springdale, AR July 6 Central Chapter, Glenwood, AR July 20 PM me for location details.
  6. Beautiful job, Steven! I like the addition of the copper rivets. Well done.
  7. rdennett, there are blacksmith groups in the Austin and Houston area. You might search them out. They usually have coal for members (and sometimes non-members).
  8. Nico, google "piehtoolco". They are but just one supplier of blacksmithing supplies, so I chose this one just to show you examples of the butcher block brushes with the larger, stiffer bristles. Search their site for block brushes.
  9. Without going to the labor and expense of hard-siding your smithy for winter, you might consider some drop down tarps for the sides and something "relatively" safe for heat, like a Mr. Buddy heater. At least you might get it up to +10* inside...LOL. You nor'east guys are tough anyway. My setup is open sided under a metal carport. In winter, the cold is not too bad, but if the wind is blowing, no forging! Not that tough. LOL Very nice, compact smithty, BTW
  10. A lady friend of mine has a Catahoula/Great Dane mix on her farm. Great dog. Gentle, great protector, wonderful with kids...but is terrified of thunder. Never saw a dog as well behaved as him.
  11. The electrolysis will work perfectly on those, and a LOT cheaper than Evap-O-Rust. Be sure the battery charger you use for the electrolysis is a manual one, not an automatic charger. The automatic chargers "look" for a battery and if the circuitry doesn't sense one they won't work for electrolysis. Somewhere around 4 to 10 amps is a good rate to de-rust. Anything lower usually takes a bit longer to work. Here are some old horseshoes that I used electrolysis on.
  12. The Central Chapter, mostly folks in and around the Little Rock area. I'll try to PM you some info this afternoon (Saturday). Visitors welcome!!! Try to make the next meeting.
  13. Dave, cool tongs! How much do the tongs weigh?
  14. aus....hang on to that...maybe you can find a rancher with the same initials!! LOL