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About arkie

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    Cranky Old Guy
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  • Location
    NW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing and welding

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  1. That's normal.......
  2. BOA Meetings scheduled for March 2017: NW Chapter: Mar. 11, Siloam Springs, AR NE Chapter: Mar. 4, Correction:...Jonesboro, AR (There have been two locations posted recently for the NE meeting on Mar. 4. Please PM one of the NE Chapter members here on IFI for the correct one. The contact here is "EJRailRoadTrack". Central Chapter: Mar. 18, Roland, AR River Valley Chapter: Mar. 4, Witcherville, AR PM me for details if interested in attending a chapter meeting. Visitors always welcome.
  3. Meetings for Jan and Feb 2017 were posted in January (above). March will be this evening. ***************************** BOA Meetings scheduled for March 2017: NW Chapter: Mar. 11, Siloam Springs, AR NE Chapter: Mar. 4, Correction:...Jonesboro, AR Central Chapter: Mar. 18, Roland, AR PM me for details if interested in attending a chapter meeting. Visitors always welcome.
  4. Very informative video. Easy to follow steps. Thanks for posting. I'm about to start a touchmark myself and this really helped a lot.
  5. I'm afraid those are a bit above my skill level...would be neat to do, though.
  6. Nice thing about using the WD-40 is that it doesn't leave a thick, oily residue like regular oil and it's cheap. Easy to wipe clean off the face. A can lasts me several weeks. I've never tried the ATF...might have to give it a test run.
  7. I imagine that photos showing the difference between wrought iron and "steel" such as mild steel have been posted here on IFI, but from my searches it appears that earlier photos are no longer available on the site. So, in that regard, here are some that I took recently. My digital camera doesn't take close-ups very well, but here are some comparisons. The photos include a comparison of two 1/2" round rods, one wrought iron and one mild steel. Each was cut part way down with a hacksaw then split apart. You can see the fibrous structure on the wrought iron and the microcrystalline appearance on the mild steel (the shiny one with one ear broken off). Also included is a large bar, probably from a piece of old farm equipment that was folded over forming an eye. I cut through part of one end on the eye and bent it back to show the fibrous structure (you may have to zoom in on that one). The clue to the bar probably being wrought iron was the linear weathering along the bar. It's about 3" wide and 1/2" thick. Must have been fun bending that piece over. Now, I'd like to figure out what to make from the large piece, or maybe just cut it up for several projects.
  8. My anvil is outside under a metal shed. When I finish working, I wipe it off with a rag, give the face and horn a light spray of WD-40 and cover it with a large plastic storage container. It can sit as long as a couple of weeks if I'm on vacation and when I remove the top, no rust. Wipe it off again, and go to work! It's been outside like that for 4 years using the WD-40 and the face has no rust.
  9. Excellent advice, Frosty!!
  10. If you grind a hammer face to change the shape, be sure to keep it cool!!! If the hammer is heat treated, hard grinding can remove the temper resulting in a softer face. I never grind more than what is comfortable to the hand touch and move around the face, stopping when it gets too warm and let it cool down.
  11. mutant might want to go back and edit (non G-rated language) his video so that it can be posted.....
  12. Either face will work...personal preference. If you want to do some top fullering by tilting the hammer head on the stock, then obviously the square face is what you need to use, otherwise you'll leave round hammer marks that don't spread the stock uniformly. Look at some of Brian's videos to see how he uses the square hammer head to fuller his work.
  13. I had heard that the superquench could "harden" to some extent mild or low carbon steel. Being bored one day, I mixed up a batch to see if it worked. I did the non-magnetic quench on a piece of A-36 mild steel (man, that stuff really screams at you when it hits the water!!!!). End result with the file skate test was a *little* apparent hardening, more like thin case hardening, not anything that probably would hold an edge for long. The quench is still in the bucket, never have used it since that first time. "HC" railroad spikes are not higher carbon in the sense that you would use it for cutting tools, chisels, axes, punches, knives, etc. It is merely a slightly higher carbon than low carbon spikes. It is my understanding that they were supposedly a slightly tougher steel used on curves and such where the trains and rails might exert a higher stress on the spike's holding power. I'm sure some spike experts will jump in here and expound on the subject. I don't use spikes but once in a blue moon, don't really like them.
  14. Methinks that Frosty is coming out of winter hibernation...We all better sharpen up!!
  15. Also, try to keep your work out of the bottom of your fire where the oxidizing zone is...contributes to scale. Get further up in the fire, the neutral zone...less or very little scale. Glenn has posted a diagram several times here on IFI of the "layers" in the firepot. See if you can locate it.