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About arkie

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    Cranky Old Guy

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  • Location
    NW Arkansas
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing and welding

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  1. UPDATE: Meetings changes NW Chapter meeting for April cancelled due to COVID-19 Central Chapter, April 18, Hot Springs, AR (this meeting contingent on COVID-19 developments)
  2. Jennifer, I was reading through all this thread, and the comment you made about scrolling tongs was enlightening. I had never read or heard about the difference and will now file that away for future reference. I have three sets of scrolling tongs (righty's) where the jaws want to spread when I turn to scroll in a clockwise direction, and you solved that problem. Thanks!
  3. Well, you got it fixed! We live in the country, and some friends nearby have a well also. About 95% of the time their's goes down, it's either the capacitor or pressure switch.. They always keep a spare of each at home, so they don't have to go to town or be out of water for long (they are 15 miles from town). CGL, your kitchen ware is looking first class! are talented.
  4. Jennifer, glad you posted the hatchet pics on IFI. Beautiful job, as always.
  5. Chris, If you aren't familiar with the 60xx rods versus 70xx, the most common visual thing is that the 60xx rods are "fast freeze" and have a rougher, "stack of dimes" bead texture whereas the 70xx rods tend to have a smoother bead. You may have used both, so forgive me if I'm plowing old ground. Enjoy your welding day.
  6. Chris, for AC welding, use 6011 rods, which were originally designed to use with AC. 6010 rods are for DC welding. You can use either rod when on DC, BTW. The most common usage for 6010 is pipe welding root passes. When you get new rods, buy specifically 7018AC to use with your welder. I had to get some more 7018 in a lurch one day, ran down to Home Depot who was open late and the only 7018's they had were box is a DC welder....DUH. Had to wait until the LWS was open. 7018 is primarily used for structural applications and higher carbon steels to combat hydrogen embrittlement, and restarts can be frustrating since you have to break off the "fingernail" that forms, making restarts sometimes difficult. I like 7014 for nearly everything because it runs smooth, no restart problems, and is a "drag" rod making arc length control a no-brainer. See if you can find some 7014AC. Spending the day running beads, with 6013 or any rod, is about the best thing you could be doing. Repeated running of stringers builds experience, muscle memory, and confidence. I still run stringer pads from time to time for practice. My stringers tend to run amuck sometimes, but mainly because I can't see where I'm going! Running flat stringers is hard for some folks (me) because you don't have a clear reference to use. Once I get one or two down, then it's easier to see. Also while running stringers, change your amperage a bit for each few to see the effects and you will find the "sweet spot" for that rod and your machine. If your plate gets too hot, it will affect the welds, making them a bit deeper since the steel has been preheated, so to speak. Let it cool down, and play some more! Two of the best instructional videos out there are: Jody over on forum (click on top for "Videos") and an older video, excellent, on youtube, below.
  7. Glenn's suggestion of the decimal equivalent of the rod diameter is a guide most folks go by as an average. Thick metal might require a little preheat and higher amperage, whereas thin metal would require less amperage, hence the wide ranges of recommended amps. Multiple passes might be required for thick metal as well, but I don't think you are going to have that situation. For stick, a tight arc and/or drag for some rods gives best results, just don't bury the rod in the metal. I use 7014 or 7018 rods a lot, 125-130 amps for 1/8", around 95 for 3/32" (those are for my welder...each machine is different, don't rely on the dial settings). For 6011 or 6010, less amperage for each rod size since they dig a little deeper. 6013 is a low penetration rod and requires less amperage than the formula as well.
  8. I split 4" long pieces of PVC in half, then glue them back together around the bucket handle. Just the right size and don't bend. Seems everyone has their favorite handle fix. Seeing as how heavy a 5 gal bucket of paint is, you'd think the mfg. would make a more comfortable handle,,,,,,,but no.
  9. Chris, to lighten things a bit.... I'll try to make this short story long... I was learning how to weld; been doing it for a year or so, as a hobby. I needed to bend a 1/4" x 2" piece of bar stock for a project. Didn't have an O/A torch to heat it with, so I decided to make a quick brake drum forge on a flat steel plate, just to heat things to bend them. No coal. I contacted a blacksmith organization that would sell me a bag of coal even though I wasn't a member. The guy asked me to come to their next meeting (at a great, classical type smithy) just to see what smithing was all about. I went to a meeting and "my cork was pulled under!". I fell in love with blacksmithing and I now use welding to supplement some projects, smithing being my main thing. So, you are blacksmithing now and need to weld some things. Carve out some spare time when you can get out of the house and work on your welding;. just the opposite of what I did. But.....keep smithing your main thing!! And have fun above all else. P. S. Don't feel alone. My son is in the Atlanta area and the mayor of Atlanta just imposed a lock-down of that large city.
  10. Chris, hang with us. There is a type of tong made from rod (for reins) and several shapes of bar stock such as triangles, rhombus shape, trapezoids, etc. to form the boss and jaws. All welded together. I thought I had a better picture of how they are made, but this will have to suffice for now. Just zoom in closely and you can see how the various shapes were welded together to form the tongs. You could make the jaws cut from tubing or angle iron to fit your work like bolt jaw tongs.
  11. Alexandr, just like the Ozarks in Arkansas and Missouri...wait 10 minutes and it changes.....
  12. That's 'cause it's closer to Oklahoma! LOL
  13. Chris, I don't know exactly what your situation is regarding "having something to hold the tongs with". If you have the reins drawn out, the rivet in place and the jaws are large enough to shape your object workpiece, all you have to do is heat the jaws and either hammer in the shape or somehow form the jaws to fit. You don't need to hold the tongs with something else to shape the jaws. Does that make sense? You can make the Dempsey twist type tongs like Glenn showed (BP001) and use stock wide enough on the jaw end to form around your large stock. BTW, sucker rod makes great tongs, but is hard to forge by hand. Best to use mild steel (sometimes referred to as A-36) and then there is no risk to quenching when hot. Good luck on your tongs and don't get frustrated. Tong making for a beginner is usually not recommended.