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Whenever I go to a paint shop and ask about a metal primer I get the same answer: "we don't use those anymore, use an antioxidant enamel instead, it's easier". But so far I ain't too happy with the results I've achieved with antioxidant enamels. I'm not good with paint but I've prepared and degreased the metal with care and applied the paint following the instructions in the can and the result is always a fairly delicate coat of paint, any bump or scratch against something hard and the bare metal shows. In contrast, I've had to strip some metals that had been primed and painted, tha coat was really thick and getting the bare metal to show was very hard, to the point that it was a pain XXXXXX to strip. I don't know any expert whose advice I can ask for, so I ask here, have you tried these antioxidant paints? Are they worth it for heavy duty stuff if you apply them well? Should I try to get some primer if I'm concerned with contact resistance? Thanks for your time.

Hi fellas, I'm looking for some advice on how to protect & finish the weldment areas on a 48"x24"x3/4" mild steel plate table. (see photos) There was quite an impressive layer of mill scale on the 3/4" plate to grind off. After MIG welding 2x2 and 4x4 square tube to the plate I now am concerned with protecting these areas from rust. I do not want the raw steel susceptible to rust while I figure out a solution so for now I have coated with a blend of 50/50 BLO/Turp. I am not a fan of the unfinished raw look, aesthetically I would prefer to darken the grind areas, so the one time in my life someone bends down and looks under the hood they won't laugh. This being my first fabrication table build I was hoping for advice on techniques. I have access to an oxy-fuel torch for heat, but my concern with the 3/4" plate is that I will never be able to get it hot enough in a reasonable time/cost. I've read (on this forum) the idea of shoe polish. My questions would be: If I do nothing to these areas what will happen over time? Is the 50/50 BLO/Turp a "good enough" solution over time? Black shoe polish? Is there a better trick here on how to finish this bottom area of the table? It won't be seen directly so my primary concern is rust protection. Thanks and cheers.

Hi, I'm fairly new to forging and am having issues with my blades rusting alot. It seems like every time I make a knife 1-2 weeks later I will look and see light rust building up on the whole blade... any ideas on how to keep this from happening?

So... I forged a meat hook for a friend. I'm very much a newbie and its not perfect, but I'm still proud of the end result. BUT... What do I do know to treat it and make it food safe? I looked around the net for an answer and there's a lot of them, so I'm hoping someone here has a tried and true method that's already worked for them. It's a BBQ tool, so I'd like to protect it from the elements if I could and still make it safe to flip a steak. Thank you in advance for any input you all might have. RD

So I just got my forge set up last weekend. I use a bucket forge with some 50/50 plaster of paris and sand as a lining, and a hairdryer as an air source. I picked up some charcoal and set to forging. I found a railroad spike randomly and decided i might as well whack at that. I'm using a large hunk of cylindrical steel, (i can barely lift it so its heavy enough) for an anvil. I've watched quite a bit of videos on railroad spike knives and i thought i might as well try it out. A couple hours passed and i finished the forging. I did a little bit of grinding and this is what I've got. After reading a few of the posts here everyone says its a waste of time finishing these, and i shouldn't have bothered making one so early into my experience. I am very tempted to finish it, because i think it came out pretty good and its the first thing i made. I'm wondering whether i should, or if you guys have any other advice on what i should do instead. I'm still brand new to these forums, so i apologize if this is in the wrong place. But thanks for any and all suggestions..

I guess this is one of the nicer problems to have. Do you notice that people like to buy the things they actually see you make? This presents a problem in that you can't just sell a thing straight off the forge. It needs some sort of finish. I do a lot of rail spike bottle openers - they are quick and easy and I have thousands of the things. People like to watch the twist and the punching and drifting of the opening etc. and they want to buy the finished item. Not a near identical one on the shelf - they want 'that one'! Most of my visitors are tourists who are gone the same day and can't return the next day to pick up a properly finished piece. The bottle opener in the picture is pretty much straight off the forge, after a bit of wire brushing. What can I do to provide an on-the-spot acceptable finish? I don't like the thought of someone taking away a raw item like that and finding it's turned orange within a few days. Straight beeswax is gluggy and spray finishes are well and good but take time to dry. Do you sell straight off your forge and, if so, what do you do to make the pieces presentable??

First Greetings to all as I am new to this forum, I have recently graduated from a fine art course here in England during which I used several time the forge to produce my artwork. First for me a great occasion to try myself to a specialist skill, then a way to get to a result intended as the college had sold their foundry, so it was the only way to go heavy metal. I now have been proposed to create an artwork for a town for which I first have to produce a quote. Once again, for time, reasons and practicality, I will use the forge to help me shapping the metal as desired. This is the reason why I found your forum and I might have to ask you a lot of question before I can relax! First of all, I am to produce a tree like shape, which will be outdour, I am wondering what type of grade of steel shall I work with, we used to work with constuction type rods like 30mm, 12mmm, 8mm, 6mm and nice little plates like 5x40x100 but now I am thinking I might need something that can weather a bit better than that or that can take a nice finish...I, off course, also have to be cost effective...... So that's my first question and would need suggestion... Secondly...my second question Is: Can anyone suggest me a good supplier, here in South East England(Kent) or one that can deliver around the country? I think I will need predominantly some 30mm rods and then smaller size.. Thank you in advance.

How do you all finish your metal products. I just made a dinner triangle for the kiddos to hang outside, but don't want it to get all rusty and end up falling apart. What different products do you use for outdoor metals? What about indoors?

Hello all, I stumbled over "Iron Oxide Patinas" heat applied, which seems to me kind of a enameling process. Question: how exactly to do it and what kinds of oxides to use? Who has experience with this process? If you are not sure what I am talking about, here is a link to a shop which actually seems to do it: http://www.artfactory.com/door-grill-hand-forged-patina-finished-gvg12-p-5002.html Have a nice day, Andreas

Hello all, I am wanting to start forging simple grill tools. My question is, since obviously they are going to be used on food, is there a certain type of metal I need to be using? Or a certain way of treating the metal when I am done so that it is safe for food use? Thanks!