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Showing results for tags 'finish'.
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Hi fellas, I'm looking for some advice on how to protect & finish the weldment areas on a 48"x24"x3/4" mild steel plate table. (see photos) There was quite an impressive layer of mill scale on the 3/4" plate to grind off. After MIG welding 2x2 and 4x4 square tube to the plate I now am concerned with protecting these areas from rust. I do not want the raw steel susceptible to rust while I figure out a solution so for now I have coated with a blend of 50/50 BLO/Turp. I am not a fan of the unfinished raw look, aesthetically I would prefer to darken the grind areas, so the one time i
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So... I forged a meat hook for a friend. I'm very much a newbie and its not perfect, but I'm still proud of the end result. BUT... What do I do know to treat it and make it food safe? I looked around the net for an answer and there's a lot of them, so I'm hoping someone here has a tried and true method that's already worked for them. It's a BBQ tool, so I'd like to protect it from the elements if I could and still make it safe to flip a steak. Thank you in advance for any input you all might have. RD
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So I just got my forge set up last weekend. I use a bucket forge with some 50/50 plaster of paris and sand as a lining, and a hairdryer as an air source. I picked up some charcoal and set to forging. I found a railroad spike randomly and decided i might as well whack at that. I'm using a large hunk of cylindrical steel, (i can barely lift it so its heavy enough) for an anvil. I've watched quite a bit of videos on railroad spike knives and i thought i might as well try it out. A couple hours passed and i finished the forging. I did a little bit of grinding and this is what I've got. After read
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I guess this is one of the nicer problems to have. Do you notice that people like to buy the things they actually see you make? This presents a problem in that you can't just sell a thing straight off the forge. It needs some sort of finish. I do a lot of rail spike bottle openers - they are quick and easy and I have thousands of the things. People like to watch the twist and the punching and drifting of the opening etc. and they want to buy the finished item. Not a near identical one on the shelf - they want 'that one'! Most of my visitors are tourists who are gone the same day and can't retu
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First Greetings to all as I am new to this forum, I have recently graduated from a fine art course here in England during which I used several time the forge to produce my artwork. First for me a great occasion to try myself to a specialist skill, then a way to get to a result intended as the college had sold their foundry, so it was the only way to go heavy metal. I now have been proposed to create an artwork for a town for which I first have to produce a quote. Once again, for time, reasons and practicality, I will use the forge to help me shapping the metal as desired. This is the rea
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How do you all finish your metal products. I just made a dinner triangle for the kiddos to hang outside, but don't want it to get all rusty and end up falling apart. What different products do you use for outdoor metals? What about indoors?
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Hello all, I stumbled over "Iron Oxide Patinas" heat applied, which seems to me kind of a enameling process. Question: how exactly to do it and what kinds of oxides to use? Who has experience with this process? If you are not sure what I am talking about, here is a link to a shop which actually seems to do it: http://www.artfactory.com/door-grill-hand-forged-patina-finished-gvg12-p-5002.html Have a nice day, Andreas
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Hello all, I am wanting to start forging simple grill tools. My question is, since obviously they are going to be used on food, is there a certain type of metal I need to be using? Or a certain way of treating the metal when I am done so that it is safe for food use? Thanks!