• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Smoggy

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Middlesbrough, England

Recent Profile Visitors

3,445 profile views
  1. I would look for no more than 100rpm, preferably as low as 50rpm, you'd then be able to drill just about anything. The bench versions are around £60 mark, so the more versitile pilar drills will be a tad more expensive, so at that price if it's not had a lot of use and many of these don't get worked to death, it could be a good buy, but I'd like to give it the once over before purchasing. If you're in no hurry, just keep looking.....eventually real good ones come up sooner or latter.
  2. Luke this is essentually the same as the bench drills that certain highstreet supermarets sell, (the bench drill in the photo will have exactly the same drill head) it's not a serious industrial tool, it's a hobby machine and as such will have limited features. This isn't really a problem for a home setup as your not looking for high output and accuracy. If used correctly it should manage most of what you want to do as a hobbyist at a reasonable second hand price. The biggest drawback with these machines is the slowest speed is too high, but it's not too difficult to convert them to a slower spindle speed, plenty of info on the web on the subject. You're other option is to hope an industrial grade machine comes onto the market but that may well be dearer or so worn out it performs no better than a hobby model. If this is in good condition at the right price (and I'd suggest not much more than half the price of a new one), then it'll be sufice for your needs.
  3. UK bolts safe to forge

    Chrome plating is a hazard, alloys containing chrome not so much, hence the confusion you may have found in your searches. A web search will find UK suppliers of uncoated plain bolts, or just contact Iron Dwarf and get some stock from him. I have a growing collection of bolts from all sorts of defunct machinery, my biggest supplyer is scrap cars!
  4. There is at least one smith in europe I've heared of copper brazing higher carbon inserts into mild steel bodied blades, what subsiquent heat treatment is carried out I have no idea, maybe someone will have more information. I never managed to find any more information on the technique or who it was but this does however suggest it's a viable option.
  5. How to repair a fisher vise screw

    The thread may well have been turned to that profile given the date of manufacture, rather than just wear. As stated even if perfectly joined the likelyhood of some level of deformity will result in binding, which may or may not be acceptable. You can only try and if it don't work out it's find or make a replacement.
  6. It followed me home

    This may well be the case in some instances but not all, All my prop shafts are both hollow and arc welded (speculation on which type of arc welding) and include a sliding joint.
  7. All sound advice above, I've got coil spring compressors more than capable of dealing with the Land Rover spring I needed to change, they are not infallable! I can't help but cringe when using them and I can at least take most of the weight off the spring by lifting the chassis above the axle, not possible with a unmounted shock strut. Either get shop to strip them or find a source of strut free springs.
  8. Think this may be helpful, I refer you to page 57, drawing and parts list, the screw sizes given should be suffice to order a supply.

  9. US threads

    I've just found a PDF user manual with dra ing and parts list, I think will supply the sizes you need to know. I'll pm you a link.
  10. What happened?

    Assuming this is a used jack hammer tool, and we have at least some evidence of that, you may not have done anything much wrong as it could heave easily been hiding a stress fractuer from a former life. I've brocken my fair share of them in use in a jack hammer and I'm sure there are plenty on here have been employed resharpening/shaping them over the years. Not withstanding, the good advice above is still relevent.
  11. Blower air pressure/volume

    Can you give details of the fan you'e made Alex, there may be away to improve it, also your supply to the tuyere as Glenn refers to may be restricting flow if you're now working at a lower pressure. Is it aside or bottom draft forge and what fuel are you using? Pictures are always useful if you can supply some.
  12. Forging Hut?

    You can build frame panels and panel in steel or ply etc and bolt them together at the corners and bolt the roof on to the top of the wall sections, then when its time to move, unbolt, flat pack and reasemble at the new place To make it easier to move, the panels don't have to be one piece, they can be made up in sections. Most low cost prefabed garden sheds are supplied like this in the UK but are generally nailed or screwed together on site.
  13. TP. good point (pun intended) as regards the acute taper, it's also a good step in aiding the prevention of a fishmouth forming, a problem so many seem to have especially with larger stock. Cutting the stock at an angle is another good tip (oh! another pun) Jenifer, that lighter video, same for me with a lighter hammer except I'd not last as long as you do!
  14. Welcome to IFI Josh, I don't think we have many members situated at your current local but there may be a few not to far from your stateside base. I know folks can get a bit frustrated not having a certain tooling and being on posting must be a real stopper on getting a hobby like smithing up an running, stay safe mate.
  15. Bronze sword casting

    Ah yes that sprue. or should that be gate? A heafty ingot. What do you do with that Andrew, does it just feed the next pour or do you set it aside for machine fodder? As a machinist I can see it becoming parts for other projects, guards, pommels, etc. Don't be too long getting back to us with that fished handle.