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About Smoggy

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    Middlesbrough, England

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  1. Glad to be able to help Gary, small recompence for the hours of enjoyment your vids have provided.
  2. They are superb, love the execution of the twist, taper is spot on, as for them all being right problem......stand the other side of the grille,,,!
  3. No I've not Jeremy, I've commonty seen the end links with a broader flattemed profile but can't recall fullered chain links
  4. If you have a particular use for a feature then it may be a good idea to include it on an anvil, the typical London Pattern has remaind vitually the same all these years for the simple reason that it's features are those most usefull to most. Attempting to make something that has as many features as possible only results in less effective anvil overall. Look at the demonstrator swiss knife models, a plethera of tools but impossible to hold in the hand and use them. However the exercise of thinking over an alternative design and debating it, even if to abandon it as a bad job is never a waste of effort, it's by such processes good workable, usefull design ideas come about. What about a three sided anvil with a heel, a horn and some other appendage of your choice? (I'd not be sirprised if it had already been done and dismissed as pointless or limited use)
  5. The end link is typical of that meant to take, a hook, a shackle or pass the chain through itself providing a bight, which is why I suspect it a lifting chain. I suspedt you mean side to side Jeremy, or at least the gentleman did, slewing line.....usually a cable but could be chain I would imagine. Thing is if the chain is only 17' long and has the same terminal link on each end, ie it's full original length then, it's seems a tad short for either a slewing line or an anchor chain given the link size.
  6. I'll see if I can find other contact details for him Gary.......stand by...... ...and I have a website for him with contact details, I'll send you a pm with the link Gary....
  7. Yes I do Gary, if you visit the BABA (British Artist Blacksmiths Association) facebook page, and scroll down you will very soon come across a post by a Roger Hampson. He is an engraver located in Purton UK and has made quite a few now for folks on the page and posts his work for perusal. You should be able to contact him through facebook initially. Hope that helps Gary, (There will be others I don't know about....)
  8. The only reason I can think of to include a fuller in each link is to reducce the weight while retaining the strength, I've never come across anchor chain of that design, not to say there isn't. The size/shape of the end eye suggests a lifting chain to me. Are there no marking on any of the links?
  9. That's ecxactly what I did but i just used a wood chisel, then turned it over and without bothering to square the top up recessed to fit the anvil.
  10. Size is relative Alan, most of my lathe tools fit my shaper. The heavier tool you remeber will only fit in certain types of tool holder, ie the slotted post type with the single clamping bolt in the end, common on shapers but also used on simpler lathes.
  11. No need for appologies I don't think the following has been mentioned on either thread: This is not my idea, I saw it somewhere and it is more than ikely it was here on IFI. A hardy tool does not need to have a square shank of the appropriate size for you hardy hole. A sturdy plate which fits the diagonal dimensions will serve as a shank and can be arc or otherwise welded to the base of the tool without the weldment interferring with the fit. The same tool can also be held in a vice should it be convnient to do so. ( I'm fairly sure someone will be along shortly with a picture of such a tool as the more I reflect on it the more certain I am that I saw it here on IFI ) Hope that's helpfull and comprehensible.
  12. Yes bluesman7 I do exactly that when away camping. just make sure it is all completely cold before loading it up and setting off home. The only problem I have with this method is finding or transporting enough wood to the campsite. However sometimes I've gotten lucky and sourced a supply on site....only to run out of charcoal bins! The small can retort is particularly usefull if you live in an urban environment and larger fires or retorts could be a cause for complaints.
  13. Plenty of vids on youtube showing how to make small batches of charcoal often for art use or other uses. I use two food cans, one inside the other (a can of beans may be slightly larger than a can of peas or fruit) fil the smaller can with wood invert the other and sit it top can down in the fire. quick simple and cost nothing. You'll want a size that can produce large enough pieces of charcoal for your use. "... It probably could be done, however it would take forever to get a usable amount of charcoal. .." Not if like me you stack a number around a fire that you would have been burning anyway, a free bucket full of charcoal from the twigs you've cleaned of the lawn, still a free bucket full of charcoal!
  14. My preference has, is and always will be: One more power tool, one more pair of tongs and one more hammer.......
  15. For cold cutting, one can simply use a regular cold chisel, a hot cut benefits from either being mounted (hardy hole) of fitted with a handle to keep the users hand away from the hot area of the metal being cut. The shape prefered for hot or cold cut respectively may not be the convention the maker follows. I would suggest it was intended as a hot cut simply because it is handled,