Smoggy

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About Smoggy

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  1. Files often have blind sides or edges to facilitate working in corners. I can see this being used on machine 'ways' if it has a real fine cut.
  2. You don't have to have the punch either in line or at 90deg, any position that is comfortable works, you simply have to ensure your work piece is orientated to suit.
  3. Notwithstanding "limestone" is something of a generic term and could be any of a number of different materials. Carboniferous Limestone and Dolomitic Limestone are two very different rocks, look dissimilar and act completely contrary when wetted. Both (and others) are however widely used as subbase in buildings and road construction. I'd follow Thomas' suggestion and use it on the shop floor, or an area of hard standing or track or path. or use it on the land.....
  4. You've likely come across reference to sharp edges on anvils as you have been perusing the subject here, A pew pictures would help folks provide specific answers and maybe some options too. In the abscence of any pictoral reference I'd say it certainly shouldn't be a problem reprofiling at least some edge chips, the odd 'special feature' can be a bonus without detriment to the anvil.
  5. Being reletively new to the forge, nothing more than a warm palm. Over a lifetime, including three careers a broken finger, twice. Some people never learn!
  6. There's nothing wrong with your punch, you've got the workpiece in the wrong orientation.....!
  7. RobbieG, there are other alternatives to bottle rental in the UK, "hobbyweld", available in NI (and maybe others), supply welding gases on much the same basis as butane and propane suppliers, ie. one off payment for the bottle and you take it for exchange/refill as and when you need. Give it a google it may work out in your favour dependant on yuor consumption.
  8. Let us know how you get on Ausfire, If it goes well you've likely got the answer to problem.Oh and by the way, nice hook I like that "old fashioned" tip style.
  9. That's a very nice anvil in fine fettle. Looks to be a forged body with a top plate to me but others may be able to tell you more. As advised above, do nowt but use it, you'll find that saddle indispensible for straightening, much easier than using a flat face as there is room below the work for it to deflect into. I think you need to make you're uncle a gift, a farrier in a Nurthumberland mine you say.....then I suggest you make him a bottle opener for his Newky Broon!
  10. I'd suggest not splitting the chain to weld it but make a link out of a material you know you can forge weld to joint the chanin to the hook. You can make it a little larger to make it easier to handle.
  11. Some spectacle wearers use clear face masks for eye protection that does not interfere with their prescription glasses. Something often overlooked around hot/flame hazards is clothing material, always wear natural fibre clothing, if anything should happen, those man made fibres can melt and stick to the wearer....very nasty!
  12. "...I've never tried using trout skin though. Seems kind of fishy..." Sharkskin seems to be a favourate with bladesmiths the world over for hilts. I suspect even the Fins use it and some of the old blades probably have the odd tail to tell......maybe that's were the term scales comes from! "... The old folks in the Alaskan village where my grandfather was born made outer parkas from salmon skin, to keep out the rain. " It was the old folks up thataway that I got the tanning solution, solution from JHCC.....it's a no brainer!
  13. The pipe complicates things and the amount of volatiles produced add little to the combustion process. A plain flat lid with a hole to vent it and some weights to seal it works fine, When it stops steaming and starts smoking just offer it a flame and it'll burn off the volitiles, when the flame goes out it's an indication that the process is complete, coer the hole to stop any air entering and you can damp the fire or let it burn down. I just use two cans, a slightly smaller one with the charge and a larger one (as near a fit as you can find) as a lid, I sit it in the fire and the gases vent at the bottom of the up turned lid. Any sizes of can works and if you can only find smaller ranges of cans (which are easier to handle) you can stack a number of "mini" retorts if your fire is big enough.
  14. The knife: Looks to be well executed. Well done Will. I personnaly prefer straight blades and handles for the most part, especially if it is to be used unsighted as I have a better visualisation of where the point is but that's merely my preference. Tanning: I only ever tried once, Half a dozen trout skins, it didn't go quite as I intended. I had some succsesfull, however I inadvertantly made parchent rather than leather. I made my own tanning chemicals for free ( A Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorus based solution, I'll let you work out where I got it from. the strength and curing timing probably needed some tweeking. )
  15. I'd also suggest reshaping one (a gas torch would suffice one tine at a time) and fit with a temp shaft to try it out. You should know then if they require any heat treatment or not and can set up as needed to work the rest. Keep us upgraded on your progress and a few pictures never goes amiss here.....best of luck.