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I Forge Iron


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About caotropheus

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  1. Yes it is Sir, and that 40 mm mild steel slab can make a "King size" bolster plate !
  2. the kind offer from a friend a slab 47 cm X 20 cm X 40 mm used as a counterweight in a exercise machine, one "cube" and a nice heavy rim to make an adjustable saw horse. A guy I work with kindly offered me this block of what looks like mild steel 92.5 cm X 23 cm X 4 inch thick. Estimated weight 175 kg, ruler 1 metre long
  3. Greetings I have access to agricultural machinery and scrap steel I can extract from there (flail shredder hammers, mechanical hoe and soil tiller blades, plough shares, springs, harrow disks and such) . Usually, before I use this steel, I normalize it a couple of times. But, during the Winter it is much easier for me to anneal this steel. I Just toss the steel inside the wood stove by the evening, the next morning the steel is annealed. So my question is, what is "better" (obtain a less brittle steel) to reuse scrap steel, anneal it or normalize it before forge my tools? Thanks
  4. TheOtherBart I have space restrictions in my backyard, I have 2 good blacksmith vices and 2 bench vices. I am going to build a bench for all 4 vices. This is the way I intend to move the vice bench around. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnZAD1odYoA&ab_channel=MatthiasWandel If you write the keywords on youtube "retractable casters bench" there are plenty of ideas on how to move a bench or a stand around. Here in the forum there are plenty of ideas on how to move vices/anvils around.
  5. Jobtiel1 I restored a German vice similar to yours. Everything was seized, specially the pivot pin. take a look at my efforts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM_EFlbc3Yc&ab_channel=caotropheus
  6. Strange, it looks a lot like an upset block for my shop floor !...
  7. A friend had a pile of junk waiting for the junkyard guys to arrive. This looks like an extrusion die, it was in the middle of the pile. It measures 370 mm X 260 mm X 105 mm., weighs 71 kg according to the "el -cheapo" bathroom scale. I do not know what steel it is made but a ball bearing will rebound about 50% -60%, does not leave a mark when released from 30 cm high, but, if you hit the surface with a ball peen hammer it will leave a small dent. It does not ring but there are inclusions I still have to figure out what they are. I did not make a spark test yet...
  8. I also build my own anvils. All welded anvils I verify again and again I am using mild steel for the main body. I just built a stake anvil with top steel plate (steel from a plough share). To attach the top plate to de main anvil body I made full penetration welding. Now I need to make the heat treatment and I am waiting for the Winter. The Summer runs hot, every day now is above 40 C and the risk of causing a fire is really high. I will post a video of the anvil fabrication after the heat treatment. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/66233-i-homemadediy-my-third-anvil/ Like others sai
  9. Thank you Frosty the Lucky Yes, I drilled holes if the feet. As I planned this anvil + stand, I thought about being used on soil, so, if the feet bury in the soil, it will stabilize the anvil. The anvil + stand are light, on concrete floor it will move all over, even with a 0.5 kg hammer, so 4 bolts will secure it in place...
  10. I did not forge on it yet. I just tapped around with a 0.75 kg hammer to check for the ring and it "feels" like an ordinary anvil. I fabricated the stand wide, with slant legs to give more stability. I wanted to build a shorter, more stout round horn but it come out the way you see it. If necessary, I will shorten the horn. I forgot to mention, the anvil weighs 50 kg. The stand I did not weigh it yet.
  11. This time I wanted to try to weld a top hardenable steel pate to the main body of an anvil. I still have to make the heat treatment of the top plate. This procedure will take a couple of month, we are at the peak of the summer, daily temperatures pass 40 C and I am afraid to cause a fire. I will wait for winter. Wish me luck to make the correct heat treatment and that the top plate will not detach from the main body of the anvil. I welded this anvil together from 3 chunks of mild steel, main body, rounded horn and angular horn/tail. The top plate is from a plough share, 12 mm thick. Sinc
  12. Nice build LeMarechal Is there a chance you post a video of the hammer working?
  13. Isn't that a thing of beauty? Use it the way it is until you figure out what you want from an anvil. Just round a bit the edges. Do you have the possibility to use both the flat faces and the round surface of the cylinder?
  14. A block of steel that works as an anvil, it is an anvil, no matter the shape. An ASO or Anvil Shaped Object, it is an object that looks like the modern anvil anvil (for example London pattern anvil) but made of very low quality material (for example cast iron) and it is sold very cheap in the market. An ASO has no use in blacksmithing. Probably you can use it as a door stop or as a boat anchor. Before you post your questions, make a search in the forum about "improvised", "homemade", "diy" or 'makeshift" anvil. You will get many threads. Here it is one example and good luck in your black
  15. Olá human_afterall O torno de ferreiro (sim, a tradução para Português de "Leg vise" ou "Post vise") parece estar em mais ou menos ok condição. Não sei qual o preço destas ferramentas na America do Sul, mas para a Europa, o preço parece ser bastante razoavel. Sugiro que peça ao vendedor uma foto com o torno fechado para ver se as mandíbulas estão alinhadas. As roscas do parafuso estão em boas condições apesar deste não ser original. Se comprar este torno, sugiro que fabrique algum tipo de protecção para o parafuso. Boa Sorte na aventura pelo mundo da Ferraria. Translatio
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