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I Forge Iron

caotropheus

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About caotropheus

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  1. I vote for the U-bolt style bracket. I have two blacksmith vices in use and the German vice is bolted to the mounting plate and it is much more solid. You can see here details of the mounting plate/vice securing bracket.
  2. Paying double the price of scrap and removing the anvil from the sellers premises is making him a big favour. No one knows what is the delamination condition of the remaining top plate though a picture. I would buy this anvil at the right price as a challenge to repair it using the Robb Gunther and Karl Schuler method... But that is me, I like this type of challenge.
  3. A friend sold me 300 kg coke for 150 USD, home delivery. Was it a good price?
  4. Greetings During my journey on ways to "homemade" an anvil, this is my third construction. This time I decide to try to weld a top plate of hardenable steel. The main body of the anvil is mild steel, the top plate has its origin in a plough share. Before welding the top plate, I tested the reaction of the plough share steel to 7018 welding. So, I took my stereoscopic microscopic and made some pictures. Everything seemed to be O.K, no cracks or separation between welding and steel. So I built the anvil you see above. The top plate covers only the main body and the a
  5. Thank you guys for your replies As you may see, the floor is concrete. I had heavy massive objects (anvils and chucks of steel) falling on the ground and nothing happened. Unfortunately I have no space to store a pallet jacket. I am still wondering where I am going to put the power hacksaw and the lathe... Raising and lowering is ok, after all I rise the bench 20 mm from the floor and the stand legs are slant for added stability.
  6. I am here doing some experimentation. I have four nice vices that I can use and very limited space. So inspired by this idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnZAD1odYoA (At minute 6:42) I made this stand with recycled and left over materials After I bolted the vices I noticed they may interfere one with each other, but time will tell. You can see as well one of the dollies. The all contraption weighs about 200 kg. If needed, I can always add more weight to the shelf ...
  7. Yes it is Sir, and that 40 mm mild steel slab can make a "King size" bolster plate !
  8. the kind offer from a friend a slab 47 cm X 20 cm X 40 mm used as a counterweight in a exercise machine, one "cube" and a nice heavy rim to make an adjustable saw horse. A guy I work with kindly offered me this block of what looks like mild steel 92.5 cm X 23 cm X 4 inch thick. Estimated weight 175 kg, ruler 1 metre long
  9. Greetings I have access to agricultural machinery and scrap steel I can extract from there (flail shredder hammers, mechanical hoe and soil tiller blades, plough shares, springs, harrow disks and such) . Usually, before I use this steel, I normalize it a couple of times. But, during the Winter it is much easier for me to anneal this steel. I Just toss the steel inside the wood stove by the evening, the next morning the steel is annealed. So my question is, what is "better" (obtain a less brittle steel) to reuse scrap steel, anneal it or normalize it before forge my tools? Thanks
  10. TheOtherBart I have space restrictions in my backyard, I have 2 good blacksmith vices and 2 bench vices. I am going to build a bench for all 4 vices. This is the way I intend to move the vice bench around. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnZAD1odYoA&ab_channel=MatthiasWandel If you write the keywords on youtube "retractable casters bench" there are plenty of ideas on how to move a bench or a stand around. Here in the forum there are plenty of ideas on how to move vices/anvils around.
  11. Jobtiel1 I restored a German vice similar to yours. Everything was seized, specially the pivot pin. take a look at my efforts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM_EFlbc3Yc&ab_channel=caotropheus
  12. Strange, it looks a lot like an upset block for my shop floor !...
  13. A friend had a pile of junk waiting for the junkyard guys to arrive. This looks like an extrusion die, it was in the middle of the pile. It measures 370 mm X 260 mm X 105 mm., weighs 71 kg according to the "el -cheapo" bathroom scale. I do not know what steel it is made but a ball bearing will rebound about 50% -60%, does not leave a mark when released from 30 cm high, but, if you hit the surface with a ball peen hammer it will leave a small dent. It does not ring but there are inclusions I still have to figure out what they are. I did not make a spark test yet...
  14. I also build my own anvils. All welded anvils I verify again and again I am using mild steel for the main body. I just built a stake anvil with top steel plate (steel from a plough share). To attach the top plate to de main anvil body I made full penetration welding. Now I need to make the heat treatment and I am waiting for the Winter. The Summer runs hot, every day now is above 40 C and the risk of causing a fire is really high. I will post a video of the anvil fabrication after the heat treatment. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/66233-i-homemadediy-my-third-anvil/ Like others sai
  15. Thank you Frosty the Lucky Yes, I drilled holes if the feet. As I planned this anvil + stand, I thought about being used on soil, so, if the feet bury in the soil, it will stabilize the anvil. The anvil + stand are light, on concrete floor it will move all over, even with a 0.5 kg hammer, so 4 bolts will secure it in place...
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