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About patrick

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  • Location
    Janesville, WI
  • Interests
    Mokume, Tool Making, Industrial Forging


  • Location
    Beloit, WI
  • Interests
    Forging of all types
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  1. I was able to do a quick review of all my posts and found several that are promising. Thanks for that tip Irondragon. Thomas-I forgot to ask you what kind and size of hammers you got? Will you keep them all and set up a school? You are a fantastic teacher! Patrick
  2. Thanks guys. Thomas-Things are going well and life is full. I got the 500 lb bradley running last fall. At the moment most of my time is going into building a shop for Josiah. Annabelle is wrapping up her senior year and work is full of fun projects including some new interns starting an just over a week. I've been asked to consult on the metallurgy portion of a new book on knifemaking which is why I was looking for my old posts. Many of the errors I see in the manuscript I addressed in those old posts. The bulk if the book is very well done and I find it very enjoyable to read so I think with some tuning on the metallurgy side it will be a very good resource.
  3. Hi all. I'm looking for posts I put up years ago on various aspects of heat treatment. I've been using the search tools on IFI and have been able to locate a few, but I haven't been able to figure out how to search for all my post on a given forum without including a search term. Is there a way I can do that? I recall that years ago I put up some info on Keenjunk and I recall some folks saving that and reposting it here. Does anyone have that material they could share with me? I'd like to use it for a project I'm involved in and though I could sit down and rewrite it, it would be much easier if I could use what I've already generated. thanks. Patrick
  4. I run Bradley's too but mine are guided helve. I have a lot of literature on the Bradley hammers and would be happy to help. In your first video it looks like you might have the dies a little too close. There should be a gap of a couple inches between them when the hammer is at the bottom of the stroke. This allows the linkage and cushions to flex when the hammer is running. With that flex the dies should just touch.
  5. I wonder who that was. I had a professor and lad assistant who were both former Battle guys.
  6. Yeah carbon content s that high usually are not carburized. Those grade usually are limited to 0.3 carbon. Higher carbon in the base material has less driving forced to absorb more carbon. Also by keeping carbon low in the base material you get better core toughness.
  7. Given the alloy it is most likely induction hardened. It can be annealed as Thomas noted but you don' have to worry about scaling away the high carbon layer because the carbon content will be fairly uniform throughout the pieces.
  8. The double key system is the simplest to set up and cut on either a shaper or a mill. If you can cut a straight line on you mill all you need is a custom made dove tail cutter and and end mill. Rough out with the end mill and finish with the dovetail. If your dies are not long you can get a long bar and in a single set up mill the dove tail down the whole length of the bar. Cut the dies to length after milling. Bradley used a 5 degree dovetail angle with about an 1/8 radius in the corner. Keys were tapered 1//8 inch per foot. I had a customer cutter made by a local tool cutting shop. I think it was around $100 but it was made from a 2 inch diameter end mill I supplied. If you're using a a brigldgeport type mill you probably won' go over one inch diameter. You might consider having it made from carbide if you mill has the speed to take advantage of that.
  9. I suggest you use a double key system. In that method the dovetail in both the die and sow block is straight and centered. One wedge goes on each side of the die but in opposing directions. This system was used on Bradley' and works great.
  10. For a press that big I suggest you make dedicated tooling separate from the power hammer.
  11. I forgot to mention that when our hammers were converted to air they redid the seals. The seals for air hammers have a closer fit than those for steam hammers. I' sure you can run them on air without this alteration but they won' be as efficient.
  12. A couple of things: 1. Steam hammers can be converted to air and run just fine that way. Scot Forge made that conversion to their hammers probably 8-10 years ago and they work great. No lose of power and the operators actually like it better because then don't have hot water dripping on them while they are working. 2. Large forgings are still produced for the navy. Scot Forge makes many of them now as do some of our competitors. 3. Material handling in a modern forge shop is nothing like what you see in the old black and white videos. Tongs are still used but only for very small parts or for small tools. Otherwise various specialized machines are used. This is both for improved safety and efficiency. 4. Forging and anvil is a wonderfully romantic idea and I've thought about it myself many times. To get to a traditional anvil form you need a two piece construction that is either arc or forge welded at the waist. Casting an anvil is a much more efficient want to make one and, provided the heat treatment is done correctly, will give equally good performance to a forged anvil. 5. I'm pretty sure the Navy shop pictured earlier in this thread didn't have that many smallish hammers in it. It has been known for a number of years that this shop was going to be sold. I believe one of my collegues was able to arrange for a 300lb hammer to be donated to the university of Missouri-Rolla, to promote their metallurgy/materials courses. In general, shops like this did large scale work and the small hammers that were in the shop were there to make tongs and test bars. There are still a few shops around with this type of arrangement. Clifford Jacobs and Ladish are a couple of examples. For those interested in seeing really excellent videos of modern forge work, both on presses and hammers, visit the Scot Forge website
  13. What a cool hammer! Thomas did contact me about this since I am running Bradleys which use a similar rubber cushion system. I did not have to replace my cushions but when I was looking into options for that (just in case I would need to) I found most sources to be quite expensive. I believe Bob Bergman can get them, I'm sure that the folks at Cortland Machine in New York could also do it since they supply parts, including cushions, for Bradleys. I know that Stuart Giesler had some new old stock cushions for Bradleys available at one time. I would measure the ones you have and compare with what he has. You might be able to modify the Bradley cushions to fit your machine. Another method is to make your own. I have heard that RTV pourable resin works very well in this application. I would contact Ray Rybar, a very talented knife maker, for info on this product and the process he has used. I'm told he's made new cushions for quite a few Bradleys with this product and has had very good success at very reasonable prices. Good luck.
  14. The hammer makers I know buy round bar and convert it to the sizes they need. Nathan Robertson has made something like 5500 hammers this way.