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I Forge Iron


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About patrick

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  • Location
    Janesville, WI
  • Interests
    Mokume, Tool Making, Industrial Forging


  • Location
    Beloit, WI
  • Interests
    Forging of all types
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  1. I dont recall the motor pully size for you machine. Mine are 8 inch. I know of another smaller Bradley that was set up with a jack shaft a d uses a pulley in the 20 to 30 inch diameter. This set up is more loke what would have been used if the hammer were connected to a line shaft. This large shaft pulley has the advantage of giving you nearly instant single blows which is tough to do with the small pullys.
  2. I can't think of anything specific you would need to arrange with a forging company that would be different than with any other company. You need to know exactly what you want them to produce and you need to clearly communicate your expectations. You need to clearly understand the needs of your customers, including industry and customer expectations. These are all things you'd have to do with any company though. Patrick
  3. Case hardening or case carburizing where carbon is added to the surface of an item through diffusion processes can have widely varying depths depending on the time and temperature used. In industrial practice I have seen things like rail road bearings with effective case depths of 0.100 inches. Another method of increasing surface hardness is to expose the item to a high nitrogen environment. Usually that is done with steels having about 1% aluminum. The aluminum reacts with the nitrogen to form a uniform aluminum nitride coating. This coating is generally only about 0.010 inches thick b
  4. I run a 300 and a 500 Bradley guided helve both using the canvas rubber belts already mentioned. I am using the 8 inch diameter motor pulleys recommend by Bradley and i don't have any issues with belts heating. You need to have the belt tight enough without any load that it will stay in motion but not grab the drive pulley. Others, i turn the motor off between heats to avoid getting a hot spot in the belt. I do find that extra tacky belts can be helpful so i apply honey when needed. If they are too tacky dust with baby powder.
  5. Wow that was a long time ago, Thomas, probably 18 yrs because i was still living in ohio when i got those bars.
  6. I was able to do a quick review of all my posts and found several that are promising. Thanks for that tip Irondragon. Thomas-I forgot to ask you what kind and size of hammers you got? Will you keep them all and set up a school? You are a fantastic teacher! Patrick
  7. Thanks guys. Thomas-Things are going well and life is full. I got the 500 lb bradley running last fall. At the moment most of my time is going into building a shop for Josiah. Annabelle is wrapping up her senior year and work is full of fun projects including some new interns starting an just over a week. I've been asked to consult on the metallurgy portion of a new book on knifemaking which is why I was looking for my old posts. Many of the errors I see in the manuscript I addressed in those old posts. The bulk if the book is very well done and I find it very enjoyable to read so I think
  8. Hi all. I'm looking for posts I put up years ago on various aspects of heat treatment. I've been using the search tools on IFI and have been able to locate a few, but I haven't been able to figure out how to search for all my post on a given forum without including a search term. Is there a way I can do that? I recall that years ago I put up some info on Keenjunk and I recall some folks saving that and reposting it here. Does anyone have that material they could share with me? I'd like to use it for a project I'm involved in and though I could sit down and rewrite it, it would be much easier i
  9. I run Bradley's too but mine are guided helve. I have a lot of literature on the Bradley hammers and would be happy to help. In your first video it looks like you might have the dies a little too close. There should be a gap of a couple inches between them when the hammer is at the bottom of the stroke. This allows the linkage and cushions to flex when the hammer is running. With that flex the dies should just touch.
  10. I wonder who that was. I had a professor and lad assistant who were both former Battle guys.
  11. Yeah carbon content s that high usually are not carburized. Those grade usually are limited to 0.3 carbon. Higher carbon in the base material has less driving forced to absorb more carbon. Also by keeping carbon low in the base material you get better core toughness.
  12. Given the alloy it is most likely induction hardened. It can be annealed as Thomas noted but you don' have to worry about scaling away the high carbon layer because the carbon content will be fairly uniform throughout the pieces.
  13. The double key system is the simplest to set up and cut on either a shaper or a mill. If you can cut a straight line on you mill all you need is a custom made dove tail cutter and and end mill. Rough out with the end mill and finish with the dovetail. If your dies are not long you can get a long bar and in a single set up mill the dove tail down the whole length of the bar. Cut the dies to length after milling. Bradley used a 5 degree dovetail angle with about an 1/8 radius in the corner. Keys were tapered 1//8 inch per foot. I had a customer cutter made by a local tool cutting shop. I think
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