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Found 20 results

  1. I have recently started making Damascus billets and in some of my research ive heard "you have to have compatible metals". I don't really understand what makes two different steels compatible for forge welding. Mainly I'd like to know what I can use out of my scrap pile (since im a farmer with 4 generations worth of scrap). I have tried an old duck foot shovel, ( basically a hoe for plowing ground ) with a stainless saw blade. These haven't really been working and I'm not sure if it's my ability to forge weld or if it's the materials. Thanks.
  2. So, we have all been there... working with coal, left a piece in the fire with another piece, accidentally got the fire up to welding heat and ended up with an unintentional weld that was a bugger and a pox on all our houses. So comes the question... has anyone done this intentionally as a practice? I have heated up two pieces, gotten them close to each other at a welding heat and they literally liquified themselves together... At the time it wasn't what I wanted... but now that I think about it, it would be a much more controlled environment for me than trying to pull them out to stick them together. Has anyone come up with a methodology that helps them with this.. scarfing differently, building a different fire (clean coke on bottom, mounds on front and back with only a small slit on the sides for parts entry, and an open top, for example)? If anyone has made a practice of this, I would like to hear about their experiences... I have some downtime before I get my shop back to coal burning worthiness... so the theory and practice of this has taken root in my idle mind. Thanks, RB
  3. Having an abundance of 1/4" H.R., I have been playing around in the shop making simple 2 piece Banana stands for the special ladies in my life. They love them but I cannot seem to come up with a better way to attach the legs. I have been Mig welding them and I really dislike the ugly welds. Anyone have any better suggestions? I am having a mental block figuring out this simple task. And I am no beginner. LoL! Thanks guys.
  4. Here's a quick question for an expert... I get a good bit of molten slag or scale in my forge. I've been forging meteorite iron and I'm not sure if the liquid in the forge is molten slag or molten scale or something else. I use to think it was excess borax from welding, however in my new forge I get a good amount of this molten material and I haven't used any borax flux. I typically scrape most of this liquid out while forging. I'm surprised how much there is. I keep the forge really hot because of the nickel content of the iron so I forge at welding temperatures pretty much all of the time. A couple of questions: 1. Is this molten slag or molten scale (or is that the same thing)? When it cools it's brittle with a much lower density than iron. Would meteorite cause more of this material than normal iron? 2. I forge welded some pieces of meteorite without using borax flux. I actually used the molten material to see if it would act as a flux and it squired out just like the borax flux does and it appears that I have a good weld. Have you ever heard of that before? Does this molten material help in anyway with a weld, or does it hurt the weld versus just cleaning the metal with a brush before putting it back into the forge to get it up to welding temperature? Thanks!!! James in Orlando, FL
  5. Can't claim this as my own, but I did hold it while the master welded it! Hands are forged out of a couple old wrenches, most of the body came from my old truck after I did lockers and a lift kit. All work was done by my 9 year is daughter. I did pull the wrenches out off the forge and hold them while she hammered, and prep the welds, everything else was all her. Now he stands in the flower bed keeping a watchful eye out for iron butterfly and such.
  6. Bottle Opener after the curse was defeated...
  7. This “bar light” was designed for a custom space and had a few key design elements that had to be achieved for the customer. 1) Had to light the bar, grill, counter,sink area well enough for a person to operate there safely. 2) No direct light can shine into the faces of people sitting around the near by fire pit. 3) Needed to be decorative but not block the view of the river that flows by the gazebo 4) Fit inside the log truss that forms the one of the 8 sides of this 40+ ft Gazebo 5) Have dragonfly’s. Original conceptual sketch. The light would actually be a piece of art that hid with in it a light. it is 14 ft across and 5.5 ft tall. Design was approved, not having a fabrication table large enough the concept is drawn out to scale on the shop floor. Next I cut the broad leaves, and Dragonfly's from 3/16" sheet metal and forge them in to shape. The 3/8 round rod that will make up the vines gets hammer textured to give it a more receptive look to the human eye. Using wire I am able to measure the length of the vines, cut and shape them to match the drawing. The pieces are then laid on the floor in their respective places. Once all of the pieces have been cut, textured, forged, and descaled I weld them all in place. I moved the piece on to a table at this point, this made it easier to finish cleaning and removing the discoloration, and scale from the forging and welding process. The piece gets a final prep, clear coated, and wired for lights. Here is the complete piece installed
  8. Hey there guys, long time lurker but I have a question that I am hoping someone can help me with. i am trying to learn to forge weld and am having tons of difficulty. I think i have come to the conclusion that it infact is my forge not getting hot enough. Here is my set up. cofee can forge fired with a 3/4 inch reil style butner. Orafice is drilled to 1/16th (smallest i could find), ran at 5-10psi. Burner is then helped with ~25psi of air from the back to aid in compustion. I get good heat for forging and shaping but not near enough to weld. Looking at ways to increase the heat output. Im using straight propane not mapp. the borax does melt when its put on something that clmes directly from the forge.
  9. I've started to make axes and hatchets the traditional way instead of cheating and just punching a thick bar. The problem I've having is that one side of the wrought iron will weld perfectly to the steel bit (5160) while the other side won't stick unless I give it a concerted effort. It takes me around 4 or 5 heats to get both sides to weld together. I used borox and I flap wheeled everything down smooth. Now, I'm not overly attached to using wrought iron and a slug of steel for a bit. Would leaf spring be easier to weld since both sides would have the same composition? I've mostly welded smaller things together (1/4"x1" flat bar, 1x4" square, etc) So I'm not too experienced. http://imgur.com/qj2N3d2,XRWuUm1#0
  10. Hello all! I'm Ryan, and this is my first post. This past year i've gotten into so many things, and one of them being forging. I've been able to get myself a nice forge, and nice tools, and "Ok" material. As in I live on a farm. so that's my steel supply! haha. SO my real point behind this post is i've been trying to forge weld, or fold steel, and i have not at all been able to get a handle on this. can someone give me a non-vague response and a detailed how to? i know i sound picky, but i've been poking around on the web for a week now, and everything posted so far reads like everyone has an abundant background on the subject, so "Flux" means many things to me. Solder flux? Rosin core? Acid flux? HALP This is my forge ~Part time wizard, Part time genius, Full time idiot.
  11. Woman with Haflingers wants a "bitch hook" No, that's what she said, honest. Looked it up, and found bitch hook n. a curved metal device used with a chain to hold or secure lumber or other things, or to brake a sled on descents. Also bitch link. Editorial Note: The unpublished manuscript for the Lexicon of Trade Jargon (circa 1938-39, now at the Library of Congress) includes in its section on “Lumber Workers’ Slang and Jargon” an entry for bitch chain and defines it as a “Heavy, short chain with hook and ring, used to fasten the lower end of a ‘gin pole’ (q.v.) to a sled or car when loading logs. bitch link, “In logging: a pear-shaped link on the end of a chain, larger and heavier than other links. When the chain is run through an opening a choker can be looped through this link to secure it Okey. Anyone have one, or can direct me to a picture of same?
  12. I don't know much about this anvil, but do like working on it other than the ratty edges.
  13. The last year or so, I've attended a couple of classes, and at one occation forged with a very skilled "freestyle" smith (he prefers only hammer and anvil). He could make a knife in a couple of minutes, and it was flawless. Even so, most of my forging has been experimenting on my own. With slow but steady improvement. The latest forge weld-related improvements include: -Going charcoal, thus removing the variable that comes from me not knowing if the coal is good enough and me not being good enough tending the fire. -Making the hearth deeper. -"packing", that is fluxing and going to almost welding temperature and so doing an initial cleanup. Also the laminates come closer prior to the weld itself. So now it looks like I can make a quite consistent weld. But when I draw out a hidden tang on a knife, it almost always fails. My suspicion is that I'm not forging squarely enough, so when I see it starts to diamond and try to straighten it, it fails. So now I'm back to forging nails, practicing square. my question: -Should a welded tang withstand squaring up from a slight diamond, or would the shear forces always make the weld fail? Is the weld simply not good enough?
  14. Hello everyone! This is my first post ever! (woohoo!) Anyway, I blacksmith for a hobby almost every day, I use a gas forge and I have a small coal forge specifically for forge welding. My question is how necessary is a welder to a blacksmith who is just forging for fun? Is it worth the money and training? Thanks!
  15. I recently heard that industry metalworkers, on their lunchbreaks would make small toys for their families purely out of building layers of mig wire. I've been trying it myself and have made a few coil pots but can't find any images or information about the history. Does anyone know anywhere I may be able to kickstart my research. Many thanks, Josh
  16. My wife has an uncle tha'ts retired from the railroad and I scored some rail off him through my father-in-law over Christmas. I've been coming up with some ideas on how to make it into an anvil. I don't have an anvil yet and want to work the planning out on this one so it might last me a while. It's a little over 3' long and weighs about 130 lbs. So it's one of the heavier rails produced in North America. I went back and forth on building horizontal or vertical.... back and forth. Talk to this guy, read online... call a blacksmith... yada yada. So I've decided to go vertical and since I have over 3' I can cut it to exactly knuckle height and it be tailored to my hammer blow. The question I'm asking myself now is how to secure it. I have enought material to take the stump out of the situation (oh yeah, got a stump when I thought I was going to go horizontal). So here's what I'm thinking... I can fabricate a stand that allows the bottom of the rail to rest on my concrete slab. 2 things, is that solid enough, and will that eventually crack the slab. I can put it in a bucket and fill with concrete... will this lessen the rebound force of the anvil? And how secure do you think it will be? I was also thinking I could get an old spare rim or something and use that as a base, but figured that would lose some of the force. I am up for thoughts and ideas on how to secure it. And if you think a 3' tall railroad anvil is worth it. Should I just cut it down to fit my stump and secure it that way (Stump is about 18" high). Just figured the more mass I can keep the better it would work. Brent p.s this picture is a mock up of how I want to fab it. I plan to have a hot cut, fuller, two horns and weld some square tubing as a hardy hole. If I use some of my drop I can use the top of the rail for the round horn and the base as the square horn. What do you think? Oh, and I was thinking of welding this stick with some 7018. WIth proper preheat and post do you think I will have any problems. I also can MIG or run some flux-core.
  17. Hi friends, I recently watched a mokume-gane ring video wherein the stock material was cut into a washer shape and then formed into a ring by tapping it down on a ring mandrel. I made two rings this way by forging 3/8" steel washers down over a bull pin and they came out okay I guess. (See pics below) However the washer I made from a piece of pattern welded steel (15n20 and 1095) broke at the welds when I began to bend the washer around the punch even though I had the material to a bright red heat. The welds seemed very tight and showed no cracks or separation prior to trying to bend it. What am I doing wrong and is it possible to make the rings this way at all? Thanks, Bill
  18. I have recently purchased what I believe is a forged anvil. The face is slightly concave and I had read somewhere that it was possible to flatten it out and have a steel plate welded to it. I am new to this, so forgive me for not offering all of the necessary details. If more information is necessary, or even pictures, I will be happy to provide. If this is do-able, what thickness and type of steel would be best for the job?
  19. Hi All, I have a question about my new shop. My original plan was to have 220v 20amp service through the local power company. I began the paper work in March and so far I have been told that I will need to buy the power company a new transformer that would cost no more than $10,000... Also, there is the problem of compressed gas for my forge in an insured structure. I am contemplating using natural gas to fire my gas forge as well as run generator. I know that it won't save me all that much money, but it will solve several problems. The question that I cannot answer is, can natural gas fire a forge to adequate welding temperatures? If not the whole point is kinda moot. Does anyone know (1) if it is possible, and (2) what changes I need to make to the forge to succeed? Thanks for any help! Lar
  20. forging aluminum? i know how to anneal it but would like to try hot forging it any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated
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