Jump to content
I Forge Iron

loneronin

Members
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About loneronin

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    - Turin - Italy
  • Interests
    mechanics, DIY, knives, outdoor

Converted

  • Location
    Italy
  • Interests
    knifemaking, bladesmithing, machinery

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Thomas, first I thought to take the tool holders that I have on the bigger stump and nail them on the new one but I usually move the stump by rolling it on the dirt so the handles would prevent the rolling and the rolling would bend the handles... it seems quite confortable to me to use the stop blocks as handles when I need to pull the stump up or tilt it down. about the anvil to be removed before moving the stump, no problem! I have to store the two pieces in different places and I use a little cart for the anvil.
  2. the original stump of my anvil was too big in diameter. uncomfortable to move and above all it did not allow me to be as near to the anvil as I like except by placing the anvil itself on the edge of it rather than in the center. so I decided to put it aside for now and use the old stump of my "ASO". I took two pieces of pallet frame and cut them copying the shape of the base of the anvil obtaining two stop blocks which I nailed to the center of the new stump. now I can move it more easily and can get closer to the anvil when I forge. it is perfectly stable and the anvil cannot move at all.
  3. with the steel bar obtained forging a rail road clip I made a single-edge push knife. handle scales asymmetrical also in thickness of chestnut briar. brass pins and black-forge finish.
  4. thanks for the correction Thomas. my english is not so good actually! I changed the word but you are right. it should be "welded".
  5. I found a 700gr hatchet in a market that had an elongated and teardrop "eye" for the handle with a beatiful shape. I took it with the idea of modifying it and obtaining a bearded one with the addition of a steel beard obtained from the leafspring of a truck thick enough to be forged. then I cut away a piece of the bevel of the purchased axe and soldered the leafspring. then I forged the new bevel, reshape the profile, heat treated and sharpening it. with a nice piece of walnut I made the curved handle and with a piece of lthick eather a sheath to protect the edge (and myself). for those w
  6. Chris, Dick, Frosty, thanks for your comments, congratulations and advice. I have some shirts with small and big burned holes and I also have a leather apron but it was too hot when I cleaned it up so I decided to go "light" and get some sparks and few wire punctures... I know I'm not wise. I've never been.
  7. after a very long search a few days ago, precisely on April 16, 2020, I found this anvil on an online ad and purchased it without seeing it in person. I think the photos are very clear. it is a North German anvil of one-piece forged steel weighing 52kg (115lbs). this style includes a round horn and a square thong, a round hole and a square hole both above the base. this guarantees superior stability compared to holes placed on the tail and therefore outside the base of the anvil like in the London pattern. its measures are: total length from horn to thong 56cm (22inchs), width 11cm (4inchs), h
  8. as promised I tested my anvil and I get more than 90% rebound with an inch diameter steel ball. I also found a punch on the hardie cut that is the Peddinghaus gear logo. overall I'm very pleased of my new toy!!!
  9. only with the hammer and seems very good to me but I'm used to an ASO so I have no real comparison. I will do a test with a ball bering and try to mesure the rebound hight. I'll let you know the result.
  10. my new anvil (my first real anvil)! 115 lbs, no punchings, german style, fantastic bell sound, perfect edges, some cleaning needed. ... can anyone help me to identify/date it?
  11. the mother of imbeciles is always pregnant... it can be considered also a weapon due to the square edges and the pointy end...
  12. I didn't thought about this possible issue. I just wanted a keychain prybar to open paint cans or emergency wrench/screwdriver bits handle. I had no "bad ideas" for it but the police can see it like you said as a burglary tool. as you suggested it can be used as bottle opener with a little modification on the handle side but now that it's hardened I should soften it and heat treat it again after the modification... I will keep it as is by now.
  13. I wanted a poket prybar and some days ago i found a little piece of steel cutted off from an other project. the material is a leaf spring from a truck. I don't like to put steel in the garbage so i gave it some blows and drifted an old and abused screwdriver bit in the centre hole. I used the drill and the dremel disc to get more grip to the handle. three normalizing circles, quench in warm oil, tow one-hour tempering circles at 200-210 °C and that's it.
  14. I found this rusty little vice: and after 48h of electrolisis and some oil I got this:
  15. frame for my forge done! it can be attached and detached from the forge in one second. I put a switch on it and the blow power can be easily tuned with the sliding door.
×
×
  • Create New...