Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'steel'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive

Categories

  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill

Categories

  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Biography


Interests


Occupation

  1. Ok, so most of you would be familiar with the process of case hardening mild steel/iron to form high carbon steel. I had a thought (and we all know how dangerous that is) to use the case hardening technique to adjust the levels of alloying elements in steel. So here's my rough outline of the process that I'm thinking of: 1) Let a piece of steel (any kind, preferably scrap. would be easiest in bar form) sit in a normal camp fire for a good few hours, possibly repeat the process multiple times. I've found that when I have done that, a lot of scale is formed on the surface which when chipp
  2. This is a Thor's hammer necklace ( Mjolnir ) I made a while back based on a hammer amulet found in Uppland, Sweden. The hammer and ring are steel, but the oath ring section is riveted with brass and the necklace fittings I made with sterling silver and oxidized them to match the hammer.
  3. McGee Ranch Blacksmithing

    57 hours

    Hand forged leafspring with custom finger guard, mosaic handle pins, redwood burl, custom graphic designs by me. g10 liner on front,back.middles of tang. double edged super penetrator profile for dispatching hogs.

    © MCGEE RANCH BLACKSMITHING

  4. This was filmed way back in May just after I made the tomahawk mandrel video.. I haven't been feeling inspired to produce videos so this video has minimal edits. 1 to be exact. Been to busy with other things. I left in all the mistakes. which I usually do. It's part of the fun.
  5. Hey folks, hopefully this doesn't get buried in the shuffle but I had a couple questions about things that I have access to and if anyone has any input. Firstly I can get my hands on ferric oxide powder. I did a few searches without any results as most what came up was about scale. This is a very fine and dry red powder. Also on hand are blanks that go in piping. They are anywhere from 1/4 inch to half inch thick and various sizes. The only marking I see on then is the size. Ex: 2" 150 . Not sure what they're made of and if they could be any good. Thanks in advance!
  6. Hello all, I'm excited because I have just picked up my first 'real' anvil. It was quite cheap but has to be better than the improvised 'H' beam I have been using. It has a raised casting saying 'HEYFIELD 1CWT' and that's what it weighs. I live in Australia so maybe pretty obscure. It has an obvious casting line and doesn't appear to have a hard face-plate. It looks old "It was my grandfather's" said the vendor. It rings beautifully but has only about 50% rebound. However, right in the working area there are a few hammer marks, semi-circular divots about 1/2 to
  7. Hello there, this is my first post to the I forge iron forums. Thank you for any help you can give me in advance. I'm working on forging some rapiers and I have run into an issue. I cannot find for the life of me a website that I can buy some thick sheets or plates of steel for forging out these large clam shell guards. I'm really bad at finding anything on the internet and up until recently I've only ever used salvaged steel in my work. If there are any of you out there that could point me in the right direction of where I could find something like quarter inch thick steel plate I would
  8. Hey guys, I've been looking online and I've seen a few videos on various methods of how to copper plate brass and other things without the need of electricity. I am making a large wire sculpture and wanted to try copper platting, but since the sculpture is huge (6 ft long and 2.5 ft wide) electroplating and chemical baths submersion seem difficult. I've seen a lot about copper sulfate , but is there a formula where you can make a spray/ paint on solution to copper plate steel wire? I'm using 9 guage cold rolled steel. I have already heavily wire brushed it and applied non reactive d
  9. Hey guys, today I got a new anvil that I bought from a colleg of my father for just 25$. It was covered by thick painting but I removed it and was able to reveal some signs. I also made a video about the sound and the rebound. Perhaps one of you can indentify this anvil and say me what steel/iron it is made of and how much it actually is worth. Here it becomes interesting! I think that the top letters say "1824" -> if that is the production year this is almost antique o_o. And the middle ones seem to say 44 1/2... in kilogramms this would fit pretty good. And there is also a to
  10. Ok so I built a shop recently for blacksmithing. I needed to make a chimney set up so I took an old water pressure tank and used it as the hood. I have 6" chimney single wall going above the roof. The hood opening is 13" tall and about 14" wide. The hood is also resting on the forge. Anyway when I tried using it smoke did go up the chimney but some would puff out towards the top of the hood. The smoke buildup is not good and hard on my lungs. So my question is what am I doing wrong here? I did a little reading on threads and other websites about the chimney needing to be at least 10" or the ho
  11. So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice o
  12. What is the chemical composition of the steel 2cr13? And does it go by another name?
  13. First of all let me introduce myself, My name is Christian, 16 years old and I am from the Netherlands, I've been blacksmithing for about half a year now, mostly making simple knives. My question is, does anyone know what are very common items (like rasps or springs) that contain nickel? I really want to try my hand at making Damascus for my knives. I find it very challenging to find the right steels I need for my work, that is also why I use leaf springs for all my knives. Thanks in advance for everyone's help
  14. Hi, I am new here, and only moderately experienced in blade making, and have been curious as to whether you could use screwdrivers to make small carving blades or maybe just very thin ones. I have used them as makeshift hot chisels for decorative forging, with mixed results, I also get used ones for about a few pennies a piece so if it is a usable material I would like to utilize it. Thanks for your time and responses!
  15. Hello All...I found this piece of metal with the profile of a railroad track. It's marked "Bethlehem" and "L.V. 80". I'm guessing it's from Bethlehem Steel and possibly the LV is Lehigh Valley and the 80 is 1980? Im less than an hour from Bethlehem so that's why I'm guessing this. Any ideas on what it is?
  16. Hey, I need the least complicated way to build a stainless steel hollow ball with a large radius. Like the one in the image. Can I get some ideas?
  17. I've got a few questions that I need answered. I've tried asking at other places, and people just freak out when they see 'galvanized' and proceed to lecture me. I know it's dangerous stuff, definitely not something to trifle with. But, here lies my issue. I just put up a wood fence around my yard, and so now I've got a load of old chainlink piled up. I have read that chainlink is typically made of aluminum or galvanized steel, and that galvanizing can and will wear off, given enough time. Now I know the stuff I have has to be ferrous, because it's all a da
×
×
  • Create New...