Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'peddinghaus'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy and Formulas
    • Fluxes used in blacksmithing
    • Finishes for Metal
    • Metallurgy
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, Scissors, etc
    • Finish and Polish for Knives
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
    • Welding Equipment
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Vulcan's Grill, food recipes
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive


  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill


  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 11 results

  1. the original stump of my anvil was too big in diameter. uncomfortable to move and above all it did not allow me to be as near to the anvil as I like except by placing the anvil itself on the edge of it rather than in the center. so I decided to put it aside for now and use the old stump of my "ASO". I took two pieces of pallet frame and cut them copying the shape of the base of the anvil obtaining two stop blocks which I nailed to the center of the new stump. now I can move it more easily and can get closer to the anvil when I forge. it is perfectly stable and the anvil cannot move at all. if you are interested here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/NHkdosG3-ZQ
  2. Hi everybody, i just joined this forum and wantend to introduce myself. Ive forged a few knives using an old sledgehammer as an anvil and have now descided to buy a real on. Was lucky enough to recognize a peddinghaus anvil and got it for an awsome price. Ill be posting pictures of my projects soon! regards Mickstah
  3. I am new to blacksmithing. I have been interested for several years, but life is busy. Recently, I have been doing a lot of research, reading this forum and watching videos. I have a piece of railroad track that I use and have been heating all my materials with a torch. I am about to build a forge, either the 55 forge by Glenn or the box of dirt forge by Charles R, Stephens. My plan was to add tools slowly and continue having fun. During my research I discovered which brands of anvils that I would prefer having. I had read all the reviews (good and bad), including the ones on this forum. I thought "If I were buying new and if money was not an issue, I would buy either a Refflinghaus, Ridgid-Peddinghaus or Fontanini". Well, while Christmas shopping online for my family after Thanksgiving, I stumbled on a 25% off coupon from a reputable online tool store that sold one of the anvils that I wanted with free shipping! I spent the next few hours talking myself in and out of making the purchase. You already know what happened. The anvil arrived, I was excited to open my early Christmas present to myself. I settled on the the smaller 165 pound anvil, but it is so heavy. I am not yet ready for anything larger. I checked it all over, welds look good, hardy hole off a little no big deal (already expected that), face is smooth but not flat (high in the middle, more than I expected) I think I can live with that. I scraped all the clear coat off of the face. I had a 1" ball bearing that I was testing the rebound with. Rebound in the middle is about 8 inches (dropped from 10 inches) and about 9 inches on the flat horn. The thing that got my attention the most was the small depressions that were left on the face between the hardy and pritchel holes, but none on the flat horn. I have zero experience on a real anvil. I expected there to be no trace that a ball bearing had hit the face. Is this normal?
  4. JackCambodia

    Anvil Stand 1/2

    Made a stand for my anvil.
  5. I'm a Canadian living in Cambodia and I bought this anvil from an old man who found it in a ditch in 1979 shortly after the Vietnamese invaded Cambodia thus toppling the Khmer Rouge. I'm guessing people fleeing the violence tossed this anvil in the ditch in order to lighten their load. After cleaning it up I found the "Original P.F.P." stamp on the side. It's a beautiful anvil!
  6. Can someone please help me ID this? I know nothing about anvils except for the little research I was able to do since I won this thing in an auction. I know it's a 'stake' anvil b/c of the shape of the mount, but I have no idea why the horn tip is nipped off or why the face is so narrow (about 4 cm, and it is in cm). Other than very little surface rust that brushes off easy, it looks practically brand new with no visible chips, dings or dents that I can see. I'm pretty sure it's not an antique or anything special like that, but I have no idea what it is. The farthest I've found is that this crown with "CADOS" comes up with some hammers from Peddinghaus-Cados. Checking Peddinghaus website, only one of their models includes CADOS, also having the crown. The rest are straight Peddinghaus with a clover-like logo. And they are all hammers, haven't seen any anvils. So it's European made, German language (Austria, Germany?), and specialized in purpose. Anything else? Thanks
  7. Hello all, recently I bought a Ridgid Peddinghaus anvil, 55lb. So far the anvil is a workhorse! The rebound on it is perfect and it rings like nothing else! I'm working on my second Knife.
  8. Hi everybody, maybe some of you are anvil fanatics like me, so check out my private german anvil collection: www.german-anvil.com Here you can find high quality anvils of different famous manufacturers like Peddinghaus (my favourite manufacturer, especially the very rare hand-forged bigger anvils), Söding & Halbach and many others. For example the 836lbs anvil has got numbers on it, which shows, that the different parts of the anvil where stamped before they had been forge welded together to form such an amazing anvil. I think that you can find more than enough aspects to talk about. I hope you will enjoy the photos, Peter from germany.
  9. Hello all, Found what I believe to be a Peddinghaus anvil at a local auction coming up soon. Anvils seem quite expensive and rareish here very average PW 85kg went for $1600AUD last weekend. I wonder what the experienced smiths here think of it? Rebound test not so good ~50% Ring is very good Edges seem very good The pitting worries me a little (don't worry I won't get it milled), I'm thinking that might be causing the low rebound Dimensions meet a model #12 peddinghaus on their website (though obviously much older) as it is the only model with the upsetting block. Total face length: 28" Face width: 5.2" Hardie and pritchel holes correct dia. Thanks!
  10. I been in the market for a new anvil for a while now. Right now I have a 20# railroad rail and a old 70# cast iron ASO. I keep striking out locally, ether I don't get to it in time or the deal does not go though. I'm also am haveing a hard time finding good anvils in grate shape. So I decided to buy a new anvil. Before I go and spend a bunch of money I better ask someone that knows more then I do if I'm making a good deal or wasting my money. I looked at a few anvils and I like the Ridgid Peddinghaus model 5 77 lb Anvil. it's a good weight and size for me, but the price is too high for me to buy it without getting a second opinion. I done some reading and they look to be uber nice anvils, but quite as whell known or deocumeted like peter wright or fisher are. So what I'm asking is if I should buy the Peddinghaus model 5 or look into something else? They seem to sell around 700$ US Also sorry about my grammar my english is not the best.
  • Create New...