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I Forge Iron

MT Hammer

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About MT Hammer

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  • Location
    Bozeman, MT
  • Interests
    Metal Fab, Auto restoration, Woodworking, Electronics, Internet of Things, Old Cars, Antique Tools, American Pocket Watches, Blacksmithing

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  1. Total newbie here... Up to this point I've been consumed building a gas forge, burners, etc, then getting an anvil stand fabbed up. I had yet to actually heat and beat any metal! Today I finally produced my very first smithy project--these flat tongs. Now, most of you can see they're not terribly refined, but I couldn't be more chuffed. I hope to refine my skills as I make more and more things in the future. Seeing all the amazing works on this forum is very motivating.
  2. I've read this thread a couple times, and saved off images of the stands I liked. Thanks to all who posted their builds, I never could have made mine without ya. I think I read the 15 degree suggestion from someone else as well. I based my design around that angle, both the angle and splay of the back legs, as well as the front leg. I then did bed it with silicone, which definitely deadened the ring on my anvil.
  3. Very nice design — clean and functional. Quality welds and attention to detail are very apparent. I like the theme that this and the other sample you posted have in common. I will shamelessly use some of your ideas in building my own stand. Thank you!
  4. I was building a typical propane bottle forge, starting with kaowool. However, one of my applications for the IFBs was to provide a more stable "subfloor". I shaped the bricks to match the radius like so: These then neatly fit into the bottom: With that said, I can now address your question a bit better. As I understand things, Kast-O-Lite 30 is a castable refractory, while Plistix is a kiln wash. The Plistix would probably add a little strength to your soft brick, and certainly re-radiate IR, but will not add the strength of Kast-O-Lite. What I did was to then a
  5. What we're getting from you is that you don't want to spend the time to do the research. But yet, you want the experts here to spend their time to tell you exactly, step-by-step, what to do and how to do it. I myself am just a beginner, so I can't help you. I've been in the same boat, trying to wade through the 64 pages of the Forges 101 thread, and the 96 pages of Burners 101. But you gotta do it, and you gotta put in the time. The impatience of looking for the quick and easy answer is what got you to this point. The best way out is to slow down, read through all the info presented here
  6. Thanks to you esteemed gentlemen for the kind words. I'm sorry I did not present something more criticizable! Luckily, there's trouble in paradise... my kiln wash has cracked and spalled. That this is my fault is no doubt, but I don't know the reason. It could be that I applied it too thick, or maybe didn't cure/fire it properly. It air dried over a week before I applied any heat. I first warmed it some with a map gas torch. Then fired the forge to 1/3 heat, cooled, 2/3 heat, cooled, then orange hot. Now Ive got to fix this mess. I should probably post this question
  7. Thanks for the comments. I’ve at least managed to squeeze my way into the ballpark then, it seems The frame around the tank will be used to support some K26 bricks to be used as doors. I decided upon this route so it could be modular and also support front or back porches, etc. I hope the Matrikote serves well as a heat-reflector. I also coated the door bricks with that, both for IR reflectivity and also to strengthen them a bit.
  8. YAPBF (pronouced /yæp bʌf/ as Bloom County’s Bill the Cat would) I debated whether to pollute either the ‘101’ threads or the entire forum, but decided on the latter, not wishing to add to the 96 and 64 pages already in the threads. As one who has tried to scan/read/comprehend all those posts, I tnink my questions would not add value to the archive. In any case, here I have finally managed to complete my first forge build. My journey has taken me years (I have too many projects). While I know I’ve made mistakes, I’d like to know how serious they are, and what to do to mitigate the
  9. Ya, I was going to ask the same question — I doubted I was the only one who couldn’t see any images. I see the placeholders, and filenames only. I’m using an iPad. Is that an issue, or is it a server problem with IFI?
  10. Hmmm, I've obviously stuffed it up here. I bought some fumed silica (System Three 3105S16 on Amazon), mixed it as specified, and added some ag blue dye. Spritz the kaowool with water, and after letting that soak in a bit, proceeded to saturate it with the rigidizer. It looked like this (every probability I put in too much blue dye!) After it dried (took several days), I then attempted to cure it with the MAPP gas torch. The blue burned off as I got it all red hot, and that left it looking like this: The PROBLEM: It's not really rigid! It is a bit more rigid than it wa
  11. I ended up buying from an eBay seller. I realize that may sound risky, but this seller looked to be on the up and up. I just received the shipment yesterday, and it was exactly correct Morgan product. I ended up getting a carton of 3" thick, and I will resaw some of them to other thicknesses. Including shipping, these turned out to cost $7.50 each, which may not be cheap, but is less than I found anywhere else in small quantity. I can't speak highly enough of this seller. He actually refunded $10 to me when the actual shipping cost turned out to be less expensive than estimated. The bri
  12. Ah, shoot, I just read my reply and was embarrassed by my 8-mile round trip. Wow a WHOLE 4 miles to town? Ah, how terrible. Actually, just a typo... it’s an 80-mile round trip. Yes, I do make the drive as required, but especially now with the Covid spike, I’m personally less comfortable spending a lot of time chatting with people I don’t know. It is nearly impossible to gain the insights online, and even difficult over the phone. In person is best I agree, but just not practical for me at this time. Other readers may feel differently. It may be that many retailers carry Morgan prod
  13. I see a lot of 2600ºF-rated insulating fire brick carried by many sources, but few specify Morgan. What I was really after was some experience or advice regarding other manufacturers, and if one 2600 brick is basically as good as another. I did finally this comment regarding K-26 and specifying Morgan Thermal Ceramics on page 37 of the Forges 101 thread. That seems to suggest that perhaps not all K26 IFBs are created equal. And yes, for the record, in my small town, when I call around and ask for Insulating Fire Brick, I find that they either don't know the manufacturer, or they tel
  14. Hi all, I am building my first forge and burners, and have been reading this forum for months. In fact my brain is so full of information, that I have seriously began forgetting a good deal of what I’ve read here! i’m building a propane shell forge, with 2 tee burners (and here I’ll add my great thanks to Frosty, along with the many others), and I am planning to simply use bricks for front and back doors. Seems like 2600 degree is a good choice, but I’m not sure about a manufacturer. I’ve read Frosty and others suggest Morgan Thermal Ceramics k26. I have yet to find an online source
  15. Thanks all. I thought I understood from all I had read that a main application was to be an IR reflective wash over refractory. So I was surprised by the directions. I feel I can safely ignore those and follow the advice given here. I’ll post some photos and results once I get the forge built and used a bit. Thanks!
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