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I Forge Iron

MT Hammer

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About MT Hammer

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  • Location
    Bozeman, MT
  • Interests
    Metal Fab, Auto restoration, Woodworking, Electronics, Internet of Things, Old Cars, Antique Tools, American Pocket Watches, Blacksmithing

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  1. Ya, I was going to ask the same question — I doubted I was the only one who couldn’t see any images. I see the placeholders, and filenames only. I’m using an iPad. Is that an issue, or is it a server problem with IFI?
  2. Hmmm, I've obviously stuffed it up here. I bought some fumed silica (System Three 3105S16 on Amazon), mixed it as specified, and added some ag blue dye. Spritz the kaowool with water, and after letting that soak in a bit, proceeded to saturate it with the rigidizer. It looked like this (every probability I put in too much blue dye!) After it dried (took several days), I then attempted to cure it with the MAPP gas torch. The blue burned off as I got it all red hot, and that left it looking like this: The PROBLEM: It's not really rigid! It is a bit more rigid than it wa
  3. I ended up buying from an eBay seller. I realize that may sound risky, but this seller looked to be on the up and up. I just received the shipment yesterday, and it was exactly correct Morgan product. I ended up getting a carton of 3" thick, and I will resaw some of them to other thicknesses. Including shipping, these turned out to cost $7.50 each, which may not be cheap, but is less than I found anywhere else in small quantity. I can't speak highly enough of this seller. He actually refunded $10 to me when the actual shipping cost turned out to be less expensive than estimated. The bri
  4. Ah, shoot, I just read my reply and was embarrassed by my 8-mile round trip. Wow a WHOLE 4 miles to town? Ah, how terrible. Actually, just a typo... it’s an 80-mile round trip. Yes, I do make the drive as required, but especially now with the Covid spike, I’m personally less comfortable spending a lot of time chatting with people I don’t know. It is nearly impossible to gain the insights online, and even difficult over the phone. In person is best I agree, but just not practical for me at this time. Other readers may feel differently. It may be that many retailers carry Morgan prod
  5. I see a lot of 2600ºF-rated insulating fire brick carried by many sources, but few specify Morgan. What I was really after was some experience or advice regarding other manufacturers, and if one 2600 brick is basically as good as another. I did finally this comment regarding K-26 and specifying Morgan Thermal Ceramics on page 37 of the Forges 101 thread. That seems to suggest that perhaps not all K26 IFBs are created equal. And yes, for the record, in my small town, when I call around and ask for Insulating Fire Brick, I find that they either don't know the manufacturer, or they tel
  6. Hi all, I am building my first forge and burners, and have been reading this forum for months. In fact my brain is so full of information, that I have seriously began forgetting a good deal of what I’ve read here! i’m building a propane shell forge, with 2 tee burners (and here I’ll add my great thanks to Frosty, along with the many others), and I am planning to simply use bricks for front and back doors. Seems like 2600 degree is a good choice, but I’m not sure about a manufacturer. I’ve read Frosty and others suggest Morgan Thermal Ceramics k26. I have yet to find an online source
  7. Thanks all. I thought I understood from all I had read that a main application was to be an IR reflective wash over refractory. So I was surprised by the directions. I feel I can safely ignore those and follow the advice given here. I’ll post some photos and results once I get the forge built and used a bit. Thanks!
  8. Hi all, Been here reading a lot, and now my first post. I’m from Montana, and happy to greet you all and be here! Between reading Mike Porter’s book and the long Forges 101 thread, I’m full to overflowing with info to build my first forge. My plan was to coat the kaowool with Kastolite, and then finish it off with Matrikote for IR reflectivity. But when I received the Matrikote, the label on the jar says that it should NOT be applied to castible refractory. What is the reasoning here? Might the refractory not have enough adhesion? Have some of you applied Matrikote over Kast
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