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Asking for design help for an anvil stand


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4 hours ago, JHCC said:

In my stand, at least, shims aren't a bandage: the bits of rubber that level the anvil also dampen vibration. In other words (as the computer programmers like to say), it's not a bug; it's a feature!

Same here.  I bed the anvil level in caulk.  I can't say zero vibration, but the one in my living room is quiet enough to watch/hear a movie while I'm working

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Well, that's the corner where it doesn't sit flat, so I wanted to make sure there was plenty of caulk to bed it solidly. I may have gone a bit overboard….

(Actually, it cleaned up nicely.)

I haven't forged on it yet, but it feels really solid -- and quiet! Before, a hammer tap made it go "BING!!!", and now it goes "clunk."

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  • 2 months later...

Update: Since my last post, I've done a fair amount of forging on the post-silicone setup (not as much as I'd like, but that's what happens when life interferes with your hobbies), and I am very pleased. I'm not having to stop occasionally to tap the wedge back into place, and the sound is definitely quieter. 

The only remaining issue is that I've come to realize that the anvil is not quite level on top and that the height is just a hair too high. I'll be shimming up the stand to level things out and then marking the feet for a little trim -- a pedicure, as it were.

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3 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Nicely executed stand... 

Thanks!

3 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

How did the 3foot win out over the 4foot? 

Inherent stability of a tripod + fit the stock at hand = made the most sense, and it's worked out well

4 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Here is the stand for the 368HB.. 

Another item for the "Jennifer is not messing around" file.

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UPDATE: That slope I mentioned earlier became a LOT more obvious when I made the big shift from horn-on-the-left to horn-on-the-right. After muddling by with some heavy shims (chunks of rail plate and structural steel), it became clear that drastic action was needed. I shimmed up the feet until the anvil was (mostly) level, marked around the feet with a Sharpie and a wooden block, and cut off the excess with the PortaBand. (That thing is wonderful. Wish I'd had it when I first cut out the pieces for the stand -- it would have been so much easier!) Not a perfect job, but it's a LOT closer to level, and works very nicely.

Here's the marking before cutting:

5FC81DE4-BBD0-407D-9C9A-FF1839D936CD.jpeg

And the stand leveled out:

A54DC099-C8B5-45D8-8836-091C646DA2E7.jpeg

And the offcuts:

204A3D6F-1C02-4AE0-AC23-90075973316F.jpeg

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On 10/31/2017 at 9:47 AM, JHCC said:

And the stand leveled out:

A54DC099-C8B5-45D8-8836-091C646DA2E7.jpeg

And the offcuts:

204A3D6F-1C02-4AE0-AC23-90075973316F.jpeg

I love the heavy industrial vibe of your stand.  I'm thinking about redoing my stand and that's definitely a great model to keep in mind.

The offcuts will make great hooks for the shop.  Cut the full ones in half, draw them ends out an bit, and bammo, you've got some great pieces to hang your hat on!

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Update: as noted elsewhere, I’ve had some trouble with the silicone coming loose, so I added a couple of brackets to hold the anvil down more positively. 

6199DD12-E5E4-4A66-BC80-5A32F44B4057.jpeg

CF764CAC-5519-49E0-85C2-3FDD43F18B53.jpeg

I've also moved all my anvil tooling onto a separate rack, so I made a hook to hang my block brush from the loop on the front edge. This puts it right by my hammer hand when I bring a piece from the forge to the anvil, which should help reinforce the habit of brushing everything before forging -- plus I won't be constantly hunting for my brush!

3D990F3D-11A8-4E62-B809-FC6B564283AD.jpeg

You can also see in these photos the base of the treadle hammer that's now set up with this anvil, but that's another story!

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