• Content Count

  • Joined

About BartW

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Belgium near Hasselt
  • Interests
    Forging (knives); diving (instructor)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello, I was wondering, could you make a tripod style anvil stand for a 242 pound anvil, with traintrack for legs and a really really heavy plate ? I know, it would get really heavy, but it isn't a movable stand anyways, and I have a crane to move it around. bad idea given that it's hard steel and not plain mild steel ? mvg; bart
  2. BartW

    Why a leg vise?

    Hello; I actually use this vise most of the time. It's much sturdier to bend and twist stuff (even cold), it servers as a swage block to make hammer or axe eyes ... If I only had machinist vises, it probably would have been killed already. People hit whatever that Vise is holding with sledgehammers ...
  3. Gorgeous anvil. Use it well. I have 2 skoda's, and I find their steel quality is exceptional (HRC 60 or more) , even compared to Refflinghaus or peddinghaus, and I absolutely love them. pictures are here: skoda anvil twins
  4. Doesn't look like a UAT. I have one, check my posts. UAT's usually don't have a side-exit of the hardie hole. Those are mostly french. There was a post about UAT anvils finding their way to Argentina. mvg; Bart
  5. Sanding in general is bad, as it removes material from an already thin faceplate, so in general, don't do it. Wire wheeling, is OK for cleanup. I don't get why the braided/knotted wires would cause an issue over normal wires ... I find normal wires to be "floppy" and "softer", but the material removal rate is the same as for braided/knotted wire ... For mounting; please check this one - especially the video in it, and listen-. 2 identical cast tool steel modern anvils. one secured with straps, one glued down to the stump. Oak is fine for a stand, just make it absobutely seamless (or fill it with glue :D) and make sure it resonates as "one" object, not as two seperate objects (anvil & stand). This is why bolting it down securely is so helpfull in reducing the noise.
  6. Amen to that; lots of info in your post. I have 2 czech anvils, solid cast tool steel from naval gun castings, and one Belgian anvil with a 1,5 inch faceplate. And they used to make hammers from C80 (Railroad track in Belgium), and water hardened them to HRC 60'ies.
  7. Hey Hans; I got another piece of your UAT collection Just kidding, Nice score man. I love these anvils for 2 reasons. 1. They are extremely tough & hard, bordering indestructible. 2. They are made in Belgium, just like me.
  8. I melt my flux (borax) - including the used flux - untill it's a castable solid, and I pulverize / grind the block, then go through the powder with a large magnet. After a couple recyclings it becomes a nice gray powder.
  9. Actually, if it's a clean certified & tested propane tank, as soon as you removed the valves (and the interior was in fact exposed to the outside) all the propane will be gone in minutes. However, I have never found a old propane tank that was clean on the inside; and that's the danger. Most of the time there's at least some oil in it, which can dissolve propane and be explosive. This is why people tell you to fill it with water first. This will also remove some dissolved gas from the crud and the rust inside too. Sometimes there's wax in there to protect the inside against corrosion. This is why people tell you to mix in soap. If you start mixing in acetylene bottles, the story becomes even more complex, as these bottles contains a light rock and the acetylene is dissolved in acetone. DO NEVER OPEN THOSE. Spent petrol or diesel tanks ... Never cut these open either. Bottom line: Removing valves = absolutely the most important. Filling with water is the best idea. Filling with soap water is even better. Letting is sit outside for a longer period is also good. However, i've learned never to trust gas bottles, and as such i'll never use a plasma burner or cutting torch on them, I will use cutting disks, but I never empty the bottle. I usually just cut them open when they are still half full of water.
  10. I've done a similar repair last year, with similar results, and even with a broken drill bit in one hole too. My fix was somewhat different though. I ground out the drill with a carbide endmill - very slowly , lots of coolant. But I never tapped the hole, I just cleaned it, degreased it, made new jaws that lined up perfectly, and made soft copper rivets; and hammered them in. The customer wasn't going to use it to hammer on anyways, and the copper rivets are still holding up strong ... And with the mangled thread on the inside, it's really stuck in there, but still easy to remove, it is soft copper afterall.
  11. yeah got that problem too. I've got one dog which figured out how to open doors, including the door into my shop. In general I don't let dogs in, because there's always some sparks flying around or sharp metal chips on the floor. I really should clean my shop more ....
  12. Love that stand... I use the space between the feet and the upsetting block to have a M20 bolt wich straps the anvil down. In a plate as thick as that; you could just drill and tap a heavy bolt in there :-)
  13. I've used a train axle as an anvil for a while; and I still use it for my treadle hammer, and for beating things into round shapes :-) I've used a steel forming press-block as an anvil - it's a solid 200 pounds piece of D2 hardened to low 60'ies HRC .... My current anvils were cast along side naval guns from the same steel, I can tell ya, it's very good (and hard) steel. If you can cut a section off, you'd also have a decent anvil , as these tend to have very heavy wall thickness. I also used a tank barrel - from a scrapped leopard 1 tank, the 105 mm cannon - as source of steel for knives and for damascus ... very good steel.
  14. Hello All; I'm doing some re-organizing of my shop; and in the metal-sawing departement , I've decided to keep only one saw. The contestants are : a metal bandsaw - the relatively cheap ones with the cheesy yet strong feet and crap wheels. I'll attach a similar picture. This bandsaw works really good, and can also be used for finder work; as you can stand it upright and use it as a light table saw. I put some lennox bi-metal fine tooth saw on it, very good. However; making it cutting straight requires some fiddeling, and I've had to replace the saw-guide bearings already once. It cuts nice; but tends to not cut straight down if you apply too much pressure. It's fairly low-powered (350 W at 2 fase 220V), but it can saw through a train track if you give it 30 minutes and add some WD-40 ... It's clamp is somewhat flimsy, but it works. And if something goes wrong, the bandsaw will grab and motor will stop spinning as it's not that powerful. The other contestant is a saw given to me by my dad; it's a BEWO chop saw; but not the fast rotating kind nor the carbide tipped, but a relatively slow rotation speed (60 rpm) , but Enormous amounts of torque, and a couple super fine HSS 10 inch (250 mm saws). It lives on it's ridiculously heavy stand, with an integrated flood coolant system. This saw weight in at 500 pounds, There's no clamp anymore; So I just use the clamp backing and some extremely heavy bessey welders /fitters clamps. This one can cut through a train track in under 3 minutes - including re-positioning the track once to cut from the other side. It cuts 40 mm square solid iron like it was butter, stone cold result, perfectly 90° flat cut, almost no burr. This motor runs 2000W at 3 fase 380 V. One saw is obviously more much powerful, precise, lower maintenance and industrial heavy duty, but in my opinion also more dangerous, as there's tons more force on the HSS saw blade. It is however not as flexible as the band saw and not as mobile. Given that I mostly do knifemaking and basic metal works; which one would you keep ?
  15. Well; I'd search some blacksmith in the neighbourhood and try and learn there. In the UK there are many blacksmiths. Look for classes, ask around ... greetz, Bart