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I Forge Iron


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About BartW

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Belgium near Hasselt
  • Interests
    Forging (knives); diving (instructor)

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  1. Glad I don't watch TV anymore. I mean ... there was a time national geografic was nice. But that's long gone it seems.
  2. I have really good smell too; I can distiguish between stainless, steel, iron, copper, brass ... the usual metals. But I've also learned that *if* I can smell the metal; that's usually a really BAD sign, as in dust is getting into my lungs.. It also helps detecting propane/butane smell before something blows up. I can swear that people that smell "bad" usually end up incompatible with me. The virus going round, when they said you'd loose your smell, this actually scared me. Your sense of smell is important for some people; and really helpfull too; and I wouldn't want to live w
  3. Well, actually, yes. The one where I glued the wood stump also to the concrete with the same glue; it feels "heavier" under the hammer. You feel the hit in your feet through the concrete. The other one doesn't vibrate in your shoes I think - and take this with a grain of salt - that the harder you fix your anvil down, in combination with the reduction in resonance-difference between anvil and foot; the more energy will be reflected into the deformation of your work. This is also why a steel tripod with a really strong fixation works so well. I found an article about it once; someone tr
  4. There are solid steel stands for anvils around, and yes, they do add to the overall mass of the anvil. This is why a stump anvil can function at all. This is also why small anvils well fixed to a solid base can work. Joey has a lot of video's on the tube about this ; for example: But other than sheer mass; there's also something like resonance; I don't claim to understand the fysics behind this; but the more rigid your anvil is connected to it's base, the better it will work. I tested this once with industrial glue; and that experiment is still holding up without problems:
  5. Check if the ring changes going from body to the round horn and listen to pitch-changes. But from the looks of it I wouldn't worry about it.
  6. Cool find. But even if it would be "just" mild steel; it's still a whole bunch of Siamese anvils not yet separated from each other And don't bother too much with hardened steel plates; mild steel is just as capabel an anvil as a steel one. I'd argue that a good base is more important than the steel quality, and modern day mild steel is actually fairly good quality.
  7. It can withstand heat very well; just don't quench it in water. you can grind it fairly hot; but leave it to aircool. if you work ik fysically; it does workharden (become brittle) a bit. from my understanding, ductile iron is a special form of cast iron; which get's it's special abilities from the molecular structure with grafite and such. It's much stronger than aluminium; but much cheaper than forging the same part out of steel. It's somewhat mallable, but to a degree. The dust is also not good for your health in prolonged exposure, so use all the needed PPE; as it does make notice
  8. I agree, just found a missing brush in the rack of leaf spring steel behind a large leaf. Been looking for that one for the last 6 years
  9. Well; it melted , I think I was just rushing and heating it up too quick. (too hot). once I got it molten, I added some more stuff, borax'd it; scooped the crud off; and cast in a pre-heated grafite mold. Worked quit well; and gives me nice barstock to mill guards and stuff. I installed a vapor extractor (usually for welding) just in case I get strange smoke again, but it seemed fairly OK this time. Thanks for the help guys
  10. I 'm still using the diving mask; essentially to not ruin new glasses with sparks: and the old are still in the mask. I'm fairly stubby as I hate shaving. Been trying to get a hold of one of those resp-o-rators JHCC, but they aren't for sale in europe... probably some idiotic law around PPE.
  11. I use a scraper like anvil says, which is essentially a sharpened file-tip. Does require some practice, I've seen apprentices manage to ruin a nice surface finish with it about them brushes; I have only 2; pictures below. I add a couple SCSI hard disk magnets to one side (I mill a small recess and epoxy them in). then they double as my anvil-silencing magnet, critical temperature checker and brush ! I usually store the brushes under the right horn, just like JHCC, as I'm righthanded. I also put a couple coats boiled linseed oil on them (roughly once a year when I got a brush of li
  12. just measured, these guys are 20mm round, the other bucket I got is 18mm round. the butterfly clips are 16 mm. These green ones I had analysed, and the composition was really really similar to 9260 steel.
  13. Hello All; I had a call with Joey (TechnicusJoe), great guy. Hung on the fone for couple hours He was really interesting & interested in the slice and anvil; and he is going to adopt the broken off horn. I'm curious what he's going to do with it.
  14. Hello; For this part of the world; pandrol E-clips are available in 2 crossections; 18 and 16 mm round (E2039 and E2055 in the pic below). There are also Butterfly clips, which have 2 sprins sides, but are generally thinner. I got buckets of 'm; good trading stock Now I can't get them new; but when they work on track; they remove these clips and trow them away ! ... They apparantly only install new ones. The one I have are colourcoded; the greens are 16mm, the 18 are red. The steel in them is usually a variant of 9260; which is a great steel for tooling; mediocre for kn
  15. Hello; Some more details; I tried cutting with my bandsaw (not the top plate, I know that is hard); but even the bottom part dulled the saw before I was in a couple of mm. I assume impurities which are hard ? A: Faceplate. nice fine grain, but why does it curve downwards on the edges ? B: Under the faceplate, grainy look, and looks like a grainy weld too; runs almost to the other side, but tapers really thin. C: Also under the faceplate; but this section looks like pattern welded steel with a coarse grain (you can see layers ...) D: main body in what I assume is wroug
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