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I Forge Iron


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About BartW

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    Senior Member

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    Belgium near Hasselt
  • Interests
    Forging (knives); diving (instructor)

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  1. I got one fairly similar, built in 1908 in Belgium in Herstal in the guns factory. I find the holes in the side with different radii usefull for making coal shovels and such. It behaves different from a solid cast tool steel anvil, but it's very pleasant to forge on. You can find a LOT info about it here :
  2. From my testing into this subject; There are 3 parameters of an anvil base important: 1. mass of anvill base. 2. how rigid the anvil is secured. 3. The material of which the stand is made. Short answer: yes; an anvil base can have a large effect on the performance of al anvil. I have 2 identical anvils; modern solid one piece very hard tool steel. One is perfectly affixed to a wooden stump - zero motion; and the stump is affixed to the concrete floor. The other had the same kinda of stump; but was strapped down ... massive difference. Than I changed to a steel tripod; and
  3. Hello Everybody; I recently got a box of these (literally a couple dozen). I handled 3 (long handle; medium and short) and parked them in the garden shed; but how many does anyone need .... Goofing around I already made a warhammer from it, but this is more cutting parts off and grinding some. But it's good steel (I guess C50, as it hardens in water and it's somewhat the standard steel of the supplier), so I wonder; can you forge this thing into an axe ?
  4. I've seen one just like it - even the blue paint - in a metal workshop near Amsterdam. It looks good; modern cast steel anvil; but I don't have more details than that.
  5. or make angled thick washers to distribute the pressure. Now all pressure will be pointed upwards and attempt to shear / split the wood. Like a knife trying to cut a piece wood off. But this will hold an anvil down fairly effecient.
  6. That's what I was told by someone who works for the railroads and does metallurgy. But I know these things can vary a lot and it wouldn't suprise me to have different standard in the USA compared to the EU. But on the other hand; they are basically springs.
  7. Those RR clips (springy, like simple 1084 steel) in the video above are not the same as a pandrol E-clip (high manganese, high silicon 5160 steel).
  8. I played with pandrol clips a bit, and they make great tools (punches, chisels, drifts ... ). But I found they are really sensitive to forging too cold; and they need an extensive heat treatment with many normalizing cycles to maximize performance.
  9. Great idea. I've seen you have adopted the golf-ball handle philosofy too ?
  10. Welcome aboard ! my 2 cents: 1. All Anvils can chip. even plain mild steel can chip over time with enough deformation. 2. Don't get blinded by the HRC value. Steel quality and edge radius are much more important. I have a glass hard anvil with sharp edges; and I haven't been able to chip it (and I tried). Reason; this is a professionally hardened 1.2379 aka D2 press block for stamping things. I have some skoda(s), some UAT and some ancient anvil from 1908. The skoda's are cast tool steel and ridiculously hard; yet I haven't been able to chip it. The corners are radiussed, and
  11. Welded steel tripod for the 150 kilo/ 330 pound skoda. Half inch baseplate out of steel; 2.5 inch thick wall square tube legs at 14° angle, filled with dry sand and ash. I reinforced the baseplate; and the anvil is screwed down with 4 M16 bolts. there's a leather liner inbetween the stand and the anvil. it's more quiet than the original wooden stand. I love it. The picture is strange, it looks like the legs too straight down, but the wooden base was narrower.
  12. you're right; "best" without context is meaningless. In my case; i'd like it to be as silent as possible. and strong enough to support a 400 pound anvil.
  13. Hello; Quick question; I've been using 60 mm square tube with 3 mm walls; But I've also seen round tube; H-beams, U-beams, angle iron, 20 mm thick iron; 30mm solid iron ... So what would be best suited ? For an anvil tripod stand welded together. greetings, Bart
  14. If you're considering tempering something like a knife in a charcoal forge; Keep the edge out of the fire (as the fire is WAY too hot; and your spine of your knife will be WAY too hot too); and quench in water as soon as you get to the right colour. The difficult part is getting the colour uniform; but this comes with pratice. Kitchenovens or professional heat treating ovens; you set a temperature, and it will stay at that excact temperature; so no need to quench off excess heat build up in the spine.
  15. Hello; Yes, it's possible, and it isn't hard. Clean up a part so you can see bare steel; and allow the heat to creep up slowly, and judge by the tempering colours. That's everything below dark grey in the picture below.
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