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About BartW

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Belgium near Hasselt
  • Interests
    Forging (knives); diving (instructor)

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  1. BartW

    Mud quenching?

    Incredible. are there still people like this around ? You know what happens to zinc, brass and the like in an electric arc furnace for recyling steel ? And knitting steel together ... i'd say get that man a microscope and show me what isn't together in fresh 5160, and after you've folded it a couple times how bad it looks. Fresh 5160 is very clean uniform steel. But if he's so convinced, let him pass a ABS test or compete in a cutting competition ? We live in a golden age of steel. There is more steel around in much better quality then ever before. If the historical japanese smiths had access to the modern steel we have today for a couple of centuries; all the mythological katana's would have been mono steel, probably without hamon. Why fold it if it's perfect to start from ?
  2. Hello All; I found an excentric press - it's not mine (yet) -, but it's for sale. But looking at the pictures, I thought If I add a linkage to make the excentric less rigid attached to the "punch", add a mechanism to control speed of the flywheel and an anvil; wouldn't that make this thing a small power hammer ? I mean it's already got most parts up to industrial specs like the drive wheel; the axle, the excentric, the guides ..
  3. BartW

    Show me your anvil

    my anvil(s) in the far corner of Belgium.
  4. Check out the difference in sound. Same anvil, same hammer, even same wood for a stand from the same tree. Just different method of securing. The first one painted gray is glued on, the second has fysical mountings. 20190218_164156.mp4
  5. Well, today I tried to "pull" the anvil off the wooden stump by attaching a chain block to the round hardy hole and pulling it up. Hoping to shear the glue on that side. Result: nope. The ligt angle iron holding the stump on the concrete (there's 4 of m), bent open and the stump lifted. Strange observation though, yesterday the glue was like epoxy - hardening like a hard brittle plastic - today it seems more like hard silicone rubber. It is also impossible to remove from wood, unlike epoxy it seems to bond with the wood. I also find myself favoring this anvil over the other one. Could be because it's lower or doesn't ring anymore.. Or both. Sooo I'll continue to use it. In a couple weeks I'll start "destructive" testing. Mvg Bart
  6. BartW

    Anvil Harem

    Having asked a similar question before, the answer is you cannot have enough (except when running out of room to put them) , there is an optimal based on your work. I got too much so I end up giving them away to "sponsor" beginning Blacksmiths and bladesmiths. Greetz, Bart.
  7. My anvils have several radii all over. I know on the old one pretty much where what radius is, on the new one not so much yet. I don't think I could work with one uniform radius all over. It would look better though. Mvg Bart
  8. Well I got a box of those double tubes, they say there shelf life is 20 years so I'm OK in the glue department. :-) I added a picture of the glue in question, on the bottle there a picture of it's intended use. Seems to harden fast at first, then slower. Full hardness after 6 hours. I've been beating at the anvil with a sledgehammer (axe making). Doesn't move, no cracks yet. I'm beginning to think the weak part is the stump of pine wood... Mvg Bart
  9. Hello all, There's a crate of beer in a bet here. Buddy of mine gave me a epoxy-ish glue, which is made to glue steel plates to (worn) wooden beams for train track construction. It's not for glueing rails down, but the plates where the rails are screwed on. Seems to be strange glue. It's ignorant to water, but penetrates wood & rusted steel like crazy (like the underside of the base of my anvil). Anyway, he told me it would hold down an anvil. I told him I'd get him a crate of beer if that would work. Hence the wager. My buddy didn't even used lots of glue. We decided I'd use it for a month, see if I could get it to loosen up. I got to keep the rest of the glue, so I got a couple liters of this glue now. Might also be good for attaching hamer heads to handles... Now I have a stump of wood, sanded flat, with a heavy flat based anvil glued to it. Secured to the concrete floor. Any thoughts how long this will last? Also the dampening effect of this is spectacular. Much less noise. Mvg Bart
  10. BartW

    Anvil twins..

    Hello; Do you mean this guy : Hefty prices indeed, lowest is around 1500$.
  11. BartW

    Anvil twins..

    Well: I'll be honest, I didn't see this one coming either; and I already considered myself lucky in the anvils department. If any of you guys come to belgium, we can hammer some stuff together, so you can try it yourself. From what the guy at skoda foundry works told me they were cast from battle-ship-gun-barrel-steel. All I can tell you is they move steel better than a 250 kilo steel faced anvil. They do have big holes (the square is 30 x 30 mm, the round is 25 mm) and no pritchel hole. Now I do have a question however, but how much would they be worth these days? I know the new Refflinghaus go for about 2000 $, and I've yet to see a second hand Refflinghaus. just FYI, I'm not planning on selling either.
  12. Hello all, The history of the older brother : Skoda anvil Anotger railway worker contacted me, told me he had something that I might be interested in, and he would trade it for a case of beer. So I went and came back with this anvil : It's an exact copy of my Skoda, also 115 kilo, solid tool steel, file hard top, going to hrc 50-55 ish in the foot. Finest I've struck, moves metal better than a 250 kilo anvil with a surface hard plate. Hardly any wear (dished about 2 mm), minor edge chips. I gave the dude two cases of beer and a knife to show my appreciation. My weekend is good, and I got pain in the back for lifting this in the car. Mvg Bart
  13. Cool. Excellent example of good forging. Proof that even the fanciest anvil and hammer don't make you a good Blacksmith, a lesson for the younger generation. Only practice, learning (from mistakes) and a bit of talent and stubborn - ness will make you a good or bad Blacksmith or bladesmith. Mvg Bart
  14. BartW

    Makeshift anvil

    For a stand, less pieces is usually better. If you had access to a tree stump segment, that would be better. Also; cut the burned ends of the rail off; and mount it vertically. You really don't need more surface than the size of your hammer; but you want it to be fixed as solid as possible. I got myself a rail too; then mounted it vertically to a block of wood; then welded 2 pieces of metal to each size of the rail (those welding plates they use to attach one rail to the other ), and ground the surface flat, welded hardfacing rod, ground again and so on ... used that for about 2 years until I had access to much better anvils. Seriously, the white boards will shatter and make the whole unstable after a while; and the long pieces sticking out on the sides cannot be used either.
  15. I have more confidence in my post vises than in my machinist vices, but to me the answer to your question on how to prevent it from walking is just add more weight. In my case that would mean add a couple of steel 60 pound disks Also; I'm not sure yet if I prefer twisting horizontally or vertically ... Jury is still out on that one.