BartW

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About BartW

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belgium near Hasselt
  • Interests
    Forging (knives); diving (instructor)

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  1. You know; if someone were to offer me this, I would first check it. Because it's relatively soft; it's easy for owners to "regrind" the surface. I've seen the lower hardness lower layers of steel peeking through; like strange blurry spots in the polished steel. Using a ball bearing or a really small peen hammer will tell you. Also; don't do the ball bearing or the peen test if it's bolted down. Put the anvil on a rag or something, and check if the "ring" is continous left to right. If is suddenly changes, this may indicate a crack in the anvil.
  2. That is expensive. The form; the shape and the quality reminds me of this anvil below. It looks like a faceplate, but in reality it's a cast steel anvil, hardened face. Made in germany, but by a lower-end manufacturer, as mine had a fairly soft face. Workable, but every ding I made annoyed me so much I stopped using it, especially given that i have another 3 anvils that are Extremely hard. I ended up selling that one. I wouldn't pay that much money for it; "Used ain't new".
  3. Well; I know a foundry that can cast H13 or 1.2379 (D2 with some heavy vanadium in it), and if money is no issue, I'll think up a design. And a matching stand. and a matching swage block with foot. And given that they probably got a minimum amount of steel for one casting; a workbench ? one can dream ... On the other hand, I'm pretty set; I got two gorgeous Skoda anvils; First I thought they were 115 kilo's (250 pounds), but after weighing them they turn out to be 160 kilo's (350 pounds). Double horned solid tool steel, hardened & tempered face; softening down to the foot. I got both for next to nothing, so I already considered myself extremely lucky.
  4. It was actually a crate like the picture below, with the comfy handle in the middle. So a metal stand, with the anvil strongly fixed to it, would silence the anvil? hmmm maybe I need to try that. greetz; bart
  5. Looks like a nice anvil, but it also looks suspiciously never-used (crisp edges, crisp holes) ... but I'm no expert on anvils on the other side of the pond
  6. So don't worry about the "crack" (there's no trace of it on any other side, and the anvils rings like one piece) ? Has anyone ever seen a casting flaw like this ? It's a real ear-buster, it makes a half a minute very high pitch resonant ring which is truly unpleasant. Anyone any suggestion for a mobile stand that deadens the rings of an anvil ? greetz; bart
  7. Hello All; Every since I made some railway guys happy with a crate of beer for taking an ugly hunk of old tar off their hands (which turned out to be a gorgeous anvil), I've been kinda known as "that guy who likes anvils". Well; The railroad guys were taking apart another shop in the path of a new railway; and they found this anvil buried under the wood. They considered selling it; but didn't because it had a "crack" . They were considering tossing it in the to-recyle-metals container. So they called me to have a look, and so I went with a fresh crate of beer. I left the beer there, and left with the gorgeous beauty below. What they considered a "crack", is under closer inspection actually a casting flaw; like a pebble making it's way to the surface of the liquid steel. You can even see the pebble in the foot belox; right where the track leeds. It rings a church bell - seriously WAY to loud to be usable in an urban area. We defenitly need to tone this one down. It has crisp edges, even the holes seem hardly used. It's prefectly flat, rebounds in the 95-99% range; and seems to have a 1 inch thick hardened steel plate on top. it's 110 kilo's; which is 242 pounds. I can move it around for a couple of feet by myself; but it's killing my back. I cleaned it with a steel brush and rubbed some linseed oil on it. What do you guys think of this save ? Usable anvil ? It seems like it hasn't seen much use at all .. It was cast 1970-1972 according to the UAT factory specs.
  8. Very nice. looks like a very nice usable chisel after some clean up. Congrats. Feels good doesn't it ? Did you notice the difference in reaction to your hammer blows ? Once a weld is set; it feels like a solid piece of steel under a hammer; before it feels different .. more mushy, less rebound.
  9. Very nice knife actually. I would take the grind up higher too; for cutting performance and looks. How did you harden / temper it ? You also did a great job on the surface finish; you must have spent hours on that. Well done. As for the micarta; depending on which kind, and if you don't have access to sandblasting equipement; but you could also use a rotary steel brush on a bench grinder on it; in some micarta's it gives a nice finish ( like an orange peel texture - less slippery yet stil fairly dark).
  10. Light taps. And indeed, O1 contains very little chrome, but as long as you aren't welding it to itself, it should be OK. and the Manganese makes really nice black lines in damascus after some instant coffee etch
  11. Hello Guys; Wel today the guys at work were playing around with some huge chunks of soft pure copper in a mill. Then a guy asks me what they could mill for a testrun. At first I said a hammer, then he pointed to a stack of copper blocks with various hammer holes milled out. So I said "a hardie block?". Took me 5 minutes to explain what it was; but they were all in favor of doing something else (step-milling) then drilling in copper. Now I have a really big hardy hole; 35 mm(1,4 inch). So this thing is 55 mm (2,2 inch) square and 40 mm (1,6inch) high . Weighs about 1,5 kilo or 3 pounds. I had to hammer it in the hardie hole a couple times, hence the hammer marks covering the machining marks. Now other then cutting it up for other things, is this usefull ? It sits really tight, it has several usefull 90 degrees angles, and I can use a top cutting tool without fear of damaging the cutting tool (haven't found a top cutting tool that could even scratch my anvil). Soooo is this thing usefull ? It was free, so nothing lost except half an hour of my time. I also took the rest of the copper "test-pieces" home; trading stock
  12. I never flux between the layers, but as soon as I see colourchange - dark reddish - I start to put flux on it. At first once molten it's like thick sticky goo; but as flux gets hotter, it becomes as thin as water. If your billet is well fluxed, it will "flow" inbetween. and once it starts bubbeling and boiling; you're at the correct temperature. And your forge really doesn't look hot enough; so I share evfreek's opinion on the IR thermometer. Can you verify that thing with an actual thermometer with a K-type thermocouple ?
  13. 2100 degrees F is good enough for forgewelding, but somewhat on the low side as once you take it out of the forge it start cooling down very quickly. Especially for mild steel; you are looking for that yellow-white hot. Your forge doesn't look hot enough on the inside. If you are using borax; you need to look at it, and when it start bubbeling like boiling all over the piece (including the underside and inbetween the layers); you are at forgewelding temp on the outside of your billet. Give some time to soak then forgeweld. There should be enough borax so the whole billet looks wet. Your choice of materials is also ... questionable. Mild steel can be forgewelded; but since you don't actually know what it is; you can never be sure. I've had large bars that just wouldn't forgeweld at all, later I found they had added lead in the steel composition to make it more malleable and machineable.... The leaf spring is pretty much the same. I've had leaf spring for cores of laminates; I've used leaf springs in damascus. But I've also found leafsprings that just wouldn't weld together. This is typically with chrome in steel. I've always had trouble to weld chrome or nickel steels to themselves. I usually add a layer of something like O1 or 1095 inbetween, makes welding a LOT simpler. So if I may give you some advice; 1. Use something really simple like clean ground degreased O1 / file billet. Don't weld something containing chrome or nickel to itself. Keep the chrome containing steels for later when you've mastered this. 2. Make it really REALLY hot. The borax should be bubbeling on your anvil when you're hitting it. 3. I've learned most students the 3-welding heats principle. First welding heat; light taps, one side only. Basically just "set" the welds. Clean, flux. Second welding heat, on the other side , somewhat heavier taps, you should "feel" that the billet becomes one piece. Clean, flux. Third heat, hammer all you like; even on the sides, it should stay together and act like one piece of steel. Hope this helps.
  14. Hello All; Fresh from the forge; a customer-spec nakiri / usuba inspired knife. Specs: 160 mm cutting edge; thickness of cutting edge before sharpening is 0.2 mm. full flat ground; rounded back.3 mm thick 35 mm wide. Steel : 1.2442, I love this stuff. HRC 65. Materials: Reindeer guard; gray leather spacer, kingswood handle. The handle is far longer than I would have made it, about 50 mm; but the customer wanted it really long and flat at the end to crush garlic. This is also why kingwood was selected; no food poisoning danger. What do you guys think ? I recon it can cut up an apple or two once sharpened
  15. Well; grind it as clean as possible, all the cracks out and such; and heat the anvil up to really hot, only then can you weld it. Well it's a little more complicated than that; slow cooling and excact temps depend. I'm intrested in the results