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I Forge Iron

NoGoodWithUsernames

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    Sutter County, California

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  1. Thank you for the kind words sir. Yes indeed, the owners of the coffee shop are the Steele family. Though not technically customers as I didn’t charge for it, I just wanted a project to work on.
  2. Happy Labor Day fellow smiths. I'm here to show a project I just completed and delivered to its new owners today. Started with getting a copy of their logo and transcribing it to its new scale. The scale I chose gave me 2.5" with font so started cutting pieces to assemble the main part of the logo. 2.5"x0.25" flat mild steel.
  3. Mikey, I think I was inadvertently leaning towards a "D" Forge, or at least "D-ish"... I will read up on those, I found Andy's "D" Forge thread and will read through that. Are there any others that would make for some good reading? After just a few minutes of reading up I'm kinda thinking a hybrid D/oval forge, make it oval with a flat floor. This would in theory smooth the transition to the floor a little bit better as well as reduce some volume by lowering the ceiling of the forge.
  4. Got it, I think our difference comes from me using the 11" as measured with the wool loose in there, which should probably be tightened up a bit to get closer to planned dimensions. I will for sure do a third layer of wool, maybe even on the ends to reduce that volume further. Thanks again for the advise to a rookie, it is appreciated.
  5. Buzzkill, I apologize for not quite understanding. Would you mind typing out your calculations? I gave the over all dimensions of the cylinder I'm using, so if with 2 layers of wool and one 1/2" layer of castable I should be in the ballpark of a 10"Diameter x 9"or10" OAL cylinder I think, which is what I based my calculations on in my previous comment. It's totally possible that I'm off on that so if you don't mind sharing why your calculation is so much different than mine? I am all for frugality, I can't imagine I'll be doing anything larger than the 8"x3" door in the back of it (
  6. Buzzkill, thank you for that clarification. I thought the Kast O Lite was a form of refractory cement. I am indeed using KOL-30 ordered from Glenn. Paul, once I add insulation to the ends and castable refractory to the inside it should end up at 10" diameter x 9" OAL give or take a little bit. So that's about 440"3, add in the floor and I get about 293"3. (figuring the floor to take up approximately 1/3rd of total cylinders volume) Does that sound like a more acceptable volume for a 3/4" burner?
  7. Mikey, Thank you for the feedback! I'd rather here "you did this part wrong" and be able to correct it than to waste time and materials! I'll get some more wool on order to double up the ends, I did not calculate it into my order the first time so what you see in the picture is what I have except a few scraps. Yes refractory cement, NOT regular cement. Just called it cement because I was too lazy to type out refractory every time. My bad. Burner position sounds good easy enough to move still since I haven't drilled anything. Good to know about the floor and Perlite.
  8. I'm building my gas forge with what I could find and that ended up being part of an old water heater, slightly larger diameter than a propane tank forge, and I want to have some more experienced opinions regarding my layout before I cut holes and rigidize and cement everything in. The tank is 16.5" ID x about 14" long (not including shallow dome on one end) I have the end dome with 1 layer of wool, then two layers around the outside leaving me about 11" ID (not counting 1/2" of cement all the way around of course leaving me with 10") I think layering a few extra pieces on the bo
  9. Thank you all for the help! I think a big portion of it was not having a "nozzle". I went ahead and put that on last night and tried it out again and was able to get it running much easier, did some rough tuning and get a nice blue flame with some orange wisps at the end. Much more please with that. Also some photos because everyone likes show and tell.
  10. Don't have any right now but can take photos when I get off work. It's built exactly the same as Frosty's. 1"x3/4" Red Tee, 6" nip, 1/4" nip into the middle of the tee with a .035 mig tip threaded into the 1/4" nip. Nothing on the "nozzle end" of the 6"x3/4" nip, maybe it needs a coupler/thread protector or something?
  11. Managed to put up with the heatwave here in Northern CA long enough to get my T-burner put together and try tuning it... Having very limited success right now and could use some advise... As built, and not in a forge (too hot to get more than one layer of ceramic wool installed and rigidizer is still drying...) it will not stay lit. Shortened the MIG tip incrementally until there was only about 1/4" left and still no luck. I ended up trying to cover some of the air inlet with my hand and that got it running, not great but enough that I know it must be running too lean normally. I superglu
  12. My anvil came with a heavy duty 1/4" angle iron stand, but it was a bit too low for me and I just didn't really like it much anyways. So I decided to make a better looking stand and raised the anvil up a touch. 2"x6"s are all glued and screwed together, then strapped and wedged. Forged a staple and a hooked threaded rod to tie down the anvil, and laid down some clear silicone prior to bolting it down. Much better sound, I'm sure the neighbors will appreciate it.
  13. Well I got a little impatient. Don’t have cash laying around to build the nice propane refractory quite yet and discovered JABODs today sooooo here we are. First “project” on my new anvil. It’s not great, heck, not even good. But it *IS* and that’s what matters. Burning scrap wood, figured I may as well, see if it gets hot enough. Made a dull red at least so enough to piddle around with a piece of 1/4 round. And... I don’t have a blower so I *was* the blower...
  14. Dang I go away for a couple days and all of a sudden my first project went from a pair of tongs to a triple-alloy Damascus flying car, just one question! What's the tempering process to get the clear Damascus for the windshield??
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