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I Forge Iron


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About Bleu86

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  • Location
    Cedar Park, Texas, USA
  • Interests
    Smithing, Knives, Photography, Rock Climbing, Cycling, Outdoor Recreation, Camping, Cooking

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  1. Any day I make someone laugh is a good day!
  2. A friend has asked for a celtic armband. She has made her whole ren faire outfit by hand so it doesn't need to look fancy but its a relatively large radius. I figured filling it with concrete would add some heft, reduce vibration, and improve efficiency. (I used to have burly rock climber arms, but since having kiddos I am small and weak)
  3. Sorry if this is the wrong location for this post. Im just starting out and my "anvil" right now is a small piece of railroad track. There's not enough room to cut and grind a horn, so I'm trying to figure out an alternative. One thought was to hammer down a round pipe (which I have plenty of) into a taper and fill it it with concrete. Opinions? Note: this will be for small projects only.
  4. Good to know! I have already contacted a local spring shop and they do sell drops, so once society is done melting down and I'm ready to make blade I'll give them a call! What sort of tools can be made from leaf spring? It seems too thin to make much?
  5. Yes, I'll probably make some (very ugly) knives but nothing that I expect to use or would be upset to lose. I'm brand new so everything is just another opportunity to learn. I know, but I already have an old socket wrench extension that sheared off, and I'm sure i'm going to find some old wrenches and hammers when I start digging around the barn.
  6. From a 1972 F100. Got two full leaf springs, 2 coils, and what I'm pretty sure is part of the steering assembly, along with various other trash. A guy was doing a full restoration and let me have it for free as long as I took everything.
  7. Cool, thanks. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to accidentally increase my body's iron content with the first hammer blow.
  8. I've read that you should never hammer hardened steel, even if it's hot. I'm just starting out and plan on using a lot of old scrap. I got my hands on some old auto scrap, and I'll be keeping an eye out for old/broken tools. Should I be annealing everything before beating on it? I never see that in YouTube videos but I didn't know if that's just something that gets glossed over.
  9. I recently got my hands on a full set of old truck suspension, two full leaf springs (woohoo!) As well as two large coil springs. Both the coil springs have a slick black coating on them that I assume is some type of powder coat or ceramic coating. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove this safely?
  10. Applied rigidizer to the insulation on my first forge!
  11. I've been trying to find a solid answer to this all morning and haven't been able to pin anything down. I plan on completely sealing all of my ceramic blanket with Kastolite 30, and coating that with Plistix. I see people talking about firing their insulation to get it to really set. Is that necessary if it will be sealed, or can I let it air cure? Same question for the refractory and kiln wash. Do I need to fire the refractory first or is it fine to just let it sit for a few days. Finally, I know I should butter each layer of the insulation, should I butter the refractory before applying the kiln wash? Thank you for any advice, hope you're all staying safe!
  12. C'mon, all my YouTube channels are dead, my shop is *almost* set up but I'm waiting on supplies. Let's see some forge porn y'all!
  13. I did not! Thanks for the link!!!
  14. Is fumed silica thickener the same as rigidizer? I am brand new to smiting (still waiting for that first hammer blow) and setting up my shop. I live in an area that is currently under Covid Lockdown so I'm looking for options on amazon to pass the time. I can find "Rigidizer" for $30.00 per pint or a gallon of "Thickener" for $18.00. Are those the same thing ? Thanks, and apologies for the ignorance.
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