My Stand for a 30 kg Acciaio Anvil

[DHVidrine]

Pictured below is the wooden stand I made for my 30 kg Acciaio anvil.  Two 2x12x10’s were cut to make eight panels 24 1/4” long.  This will raise the anvil face 30 ½” above the floor as best suited for a person my size.  Two pieces of 2x6 were also cut to 24 ½” in length.  These 2x6 pieces are needed to form the center laminate.  Eight 2x12 sections plus the two side-by-side 2x6’s makes nine laminates.  It is easier to center the anvil on the block and properly space the lag bolts with an odd number of laminates.  I used two pieces of 2x6 rather than buy a 2x12x8 for this one 24 ½” section.  Layout and drill four 5/8” matching holes in each of the eight 2x12 panels.  Layout and drill two 5/8” holes on each of the 2x6 panels to match the holes in the 2x12 panels.  On my anvil stand I used the remaining 2x6 lumber to make an outrigger at each end.  These are not necessary.  Assemble with ½” threaded rod and nuts.  Apply a thick coating of silicon caulk to the bottom surface of the anvil base and center the anvil on the stand.  Let the silicone caulk cure overnight.  The silicon caulk will fill any uneven wood gaps under the anvil base and silence that annoying ringing sound.  Drill and bolt down the anvil with the four 3/8”x6” lag bolts and two 3/8” flat bars.

This simple stand has worked well for me.  I use a two-wheeled dolly to move the anvil and stand in my garage when it is not in use.

Bill of Materials

Two       2”x12”x10 ft yellow pine

One       2”x6”x8 ft yellow pine

6 ft         ½” all thread steel rod

Eight      ½” nut & washer

Two       3/8”x1 ½” steel flat bar 8 ½” long

Four       3/8”x6” lag bolt & washer

One       silicone caulk cartridge

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

That looks good and yellow pine will age and harden as it does. My childhood home was made with yellow pine and you had a hard time driving nails into the studs.

[Frosty]

That'll do the job nicely! Well done.

Frosty The Lucky.

[JHCC]

Very nice indeed. Might want to do something about the ends of the all-thread: either trim them down or attach a tool rack of some sort. 

[DHVidrine]

Yes, I think I will attach a tool rack to the ends of the all-thread.  Good idea, thanks.

[Frosty]

Jimminy, I noticed but didn't even think about the shin level pointies! Good catch John! 

I recessed the ends of the all thread and lag screws I used to make my swage block stand below the surface. Did the same for my power hammer base but that was necessary, can't have a 50 Little Giant resting on 4 bolt heads,  even if it's not possible to bark your shins on them. The through bolts that hold the 6" x 12" beams I used for the base are recessed below the surface to eliminate the trip hazard and tightened carefully, with an impact wrench for a nice blacksmitherly dollop of overkill.

I see we're typing at the same time. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[JHCC]

That's a good place to keep your block brush. Here's mine under the horn of my anvil:

As discussed in THIS THREAD.

 

[DHVidrine]

I added a tool rack to the two upper ends of all thread as suggested.  It will work well.  Tomorrow I will trim the ends of the lower all thread.

[ThomasPowers]

Can you recess the washers and nuts and then  trim flush?