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I Forge Iron


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  1. Mine doesn't have a flat side actually (scandinavian hewing axes usually don't), I find it works quite well without it, you learn to angle the axe and also how much you angle it affects how big a bite it takes. I use two axes, the other one is a general purpose finnish forestry axe. I do the rough hewing with it, then the final hewing with thw hewing axe. Steps I take to hew a log: 1. Put on ground on some logs and scallop the underside so it sits flat 2. Mark out where to cut the log (I use a template and a level) 3. Use the marks to make a chalk line from end to end 4. Take a chain saw and make stop cuts every 5 - 6 inches along the log almost to the line 5. Start hewing These steps can be seen in detail in this long and detailed video on medieval swedish timbering techniques:
  2. Last roof beam is done for my shed/smithy, this will be the top beam and it's 6x7 inches, it's the smallest, the others are 7x8". But the top beam will have the smallest load on it. Every log was faster to hew than the one before it. I was starting to get the proper swing and aiming accuracy more and more. Eventually I started getting the proper hewing pattern (by finnish standards anyway) with a relatively sdmooth surface and diagonal cut lines running along the hewn face. Part of the trick was to, as I swung the axe downwards, to pull it towards me as well to create a slicing motion. Also I improvised a tool from some old squares to make a nice tool for checking I was maintaining the correct size on the log. I managed to keep the final height on the top beam consistent to 1/8 of of an inch along the length, it might go up and down a bit.
  3. May I recommend Oscar Duck for this list: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeRbUDXuFXY8iqnAbs0o1NA He's got a small channel, only 2k subscribers so maybe people have not heard of him, but he puts out a lot of interesting and educational videos. Looks like high quality content to me so I figure he deserves some exposure. Last video was making 800 nails
  4. Thanks for the detailed walkthrough Frazer, though I haven't had any free time the last few days, busy framing walls right now
  5. He and his brother is somewhere between 5 to 6 kg which is a decent cat size.
  6. I was lying in the hammock a few days ago, had to take a break from the shed build. We had 32 C (almost 90F) in the shade, which is very warm for Finland when I got a visitor:
  7. Torbjörn lives in another country from me, it's not realistic for me to visit him. I did ask Torbjörn directly though and he said most firepots in sweden he'd seen where of his size, he did say he'd use bricks to make it bigger if needed, though that rarely seemed to be required. I am guessing the clinker breaker and fan must have an effect too, if it spreads the air widely instead of a concentrated blast for instance and if the fan is on the low pressure side. At any rate for me it's mostly intellectual curiosity I use a side blast for now so not really relevant. I've thought about building a bottom blast, but maybe I'll stick wi th the side blast, it's nice not to have to think of fishing clinkers all the time. I was looking at this blueprint if I were to try make a bottom blast as it seems proven, but I have a lot more in fabrication equipment than most so I was thinking of a real clinker breaker and not a grate then. Or a bullet grate, that looked like a nice design, so clinker was shed around the air intake in a donut form. http://magichammer.freeservers.com/fabricated_fire_pot_by_bob_patri.htm I've not had time to do more forging the last few days since I've been hewing logs for my shed / smithy build and I got a load of lumber so I can start putting up the walls. I modified the tuyere so it aims downwards now, that's my next test.
  8. Re: torbjörns forge, he had a video where he demonstrated it and gives measurements, depth 52mm or almost exactly 2":
  9. That's a simple change to try, I'll see what angling the tuyere downwards does for the fireball shape.
  10. This about firepot depth in bottom blasts is also something that I find tricky Anvil, torbjörns regular cast iron firepot is only 2" deep and he does forge weld in that too. I find it strange tbh how there can be such variation in pots. Anyway I looked at my forge last night and I ran it and what I could see the fireball seems to keep to the left, near the tuyere, as if the air rises upward quite quickly, doesn't propagate very far to the side. The heat seems to be quite localized thus, trying to heat a stock on the right side took a very long time, those coals where not even glowing. I had a piece of stock in the fire and I kept looking at it to see if it was scaling. But I couldn't say for sure if there was scaling going on or not, sometimes there seemed to be some but might've been because I moved the stock too far to watch it. Other times the stock looked clear, but might have a couple of tiny spots that I wasn't sure if they where oxidization or not. So my idea is I need to make the pile higher instead of wider, or both.
  11. It's about there I place the piece. My mound drops off though so moving it farther to the right would be difficult, I was looking at a torbjörn åhman video last night before I went to sleep, he made a side blast JABOD and running coke like I do. He made the firepot relatively deep and the tuyere was further down, but the pot was not as not wide, reminds me of how a charcoal forge might be shaped, he got to welding heat no problem in it. I was thinking the shape of the firepot probably means the air hits a wall and is forced to rise upwards through the coals. I thought it was an interesting note. I will use another brick for now I think and pile the mound higher on both sides, so I can move the piece further away from the tuyere and see what that does.
  12. I was trying to weld this ring I have for a scythe, it's 6mm steel originally, so it basically hold itself in the right position, the ring overlaps and that's what I was trying to forge weld together. I dunno if it was scaling in the fire or not, I tried looking and I didn't see it scale up, but I had a lot of scale afterwards and no viable weld. It looked like that when I put it in the fire, it worked without the weld since it was thick enough. But I still wanted to try and get it done. Will post some pics with measurements of forge. Here's a photo of the firepot, total depth seems to be 2 and 13/16ths as well as I can read this inch ruler I got. I think the inside of the pipe is between ½" to 3/4" below the floor of the forge at the 12 o'clock position. I try and place items in the forge so they are level with the floor of the forge, then I scoop coals back over it and it probably covers it an inch or more with coals, I try and pile it as high as I can while also having lots of coals on the sides. When I removed the coals I noticed the bottom of the pit had risen, was a fused mass of sand and I believe clinker, I broke it up and replaced it with ash instead, so the depth of the "firepot" was actually less than in the pictures when I attempted the welding. Might've had an effect.
  13. I gave it another try this evening, my flux powder and brush came. I took it slow and didn't run the fan on max, I let the sit until yellow heat then I added flux. I thought I got it, once I even got sparks by misstake, but when all was said and done it hadn't taken and I hadn't gotten any welding done. I dunno why I thought I was being real quick about it, two steps from forge to anvil, planned it out ahead how I should proceed, struck with a lighter hammer too. Mostly it seems I created a lot of scale and burnt a little of it. I dunno if I put it in the oxidizing portion and that's why it never took. Might be I need to reconsider something about the forge, I was pretty mellow with the fan, perhaps I should try and build the coke mound higher with bricks and place it higher up in the fire and see if that makes a difference.
  14. I'm working ON the shop again. Got a truckload of gravel to fill the inside and outside, 12-13 cubic meters of gravel. Shifted it with shovel and wheel barrow. On thursday it looked like And last evening like this We managed to move most of it my fiancé and I. And we got the path cleared for Elvis (our robot mower) which the truck driver covered up. Still a few more wheel barrow loads, we're putting it behind the shed and making a graveled area there. My intent is to build a lean to roof behind there. For even more storage. It'll be off the books.... I am actually thinking that back place might be the best place where to actually put my smithy more permanently. Since my family wants to see the shed used mainly for storage and not smithing. As long as it has walls and a roof.
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