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I Forge Iron


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  1. Latest pics of mine. Still working on the roof. Not sure when I'll be able to fix the exterior panelling, when I find cheap enough wood. To be quite honest, it's perhaps wrong to call this my smithy or shop. It'll be more a storage unit. It's actually BEHIND the shop I plan to put my blacksmithing stuff once the shop is finished. It'll be a leanto with a metal sheet roof and walls and the area will be a little smaller than the interior of the shop. Reason is I gotta share this space with others in the family. And turning it into a smithy is not realistic or good for stuff I will store there, it'll also be easier to put a chimney in the roof of a simple leanto for the forge. And it'll be a little more secluded. But for now, this winter I am gonna be moving my smithing stuff, anvil and forge into here temporarily. I got some old sheet metal roofing I am thinking I'll screw up on the walls around the forge area. But I dunno, maybe I need to drag it outside for any actual work since there is no chimney and a spark might be disastrous.
  2. The beam is now in place I later fitted diagonal braces as well
  3. I am going to leave it with a gravel floor for now, but maybe in the future I will cast a concrete floor. I don't have a power hammer and no definite plans for one at this stage, will have to see how this develops with time.
  4. I started lifting the beams into place on my shed/smithy. On my own and using hand power only. Made this ladder thingy: Then I had to winch it across the diagonal boards and then I have to lift it on to the center post. But I got it figured out, I got two winches and will make a simple crane to winch it in place. Tomorrow.
  5. Mine doesn't have a flat side actually (scandinavian hewing axes usually don't), I find it works quite well without it, you learn to angle the axe and also how much you angle it affects how big a bite it takes. I use two axes, the other one is a general purpose finnish forestry axe. I do the rough hewing with it, then the final hewing with thw hewing axe. Steps I take to hew a log: 1. Put on ground on some logs and scallop the underside so it sits flat 2. Mark out where to cut the log (I use a template and a level) 3. Use the marks to make a chalk line from end to end 4. Take a chain saw and make stop cuts every 5 - 6 inches along the log almost to the line 5. Start hewing These steps can be seen in detail in this long and detailed video on medieval swedish timbering techniques:
  6. Last roof beam is done for my shed/smithy, this will be the top beam and it's 6x7 inches, it's the smallest, the others are 7x8". But the top beam will have the smallest load on it. Every log was faster to hew than the one before it. I was starting to get the proper swing and aiming accuracy more and more. Eventually I started getting the proper hewing pattern (by finnish standards anyway) with a relatively sdmooth surface and diagonal cut lines running along the hewn face. Part of the trick was to, as I swung the axe downwards, to pull it towards me as well to create a slicing motion. Also I improvised a tool from some old squares to make a nice tool for checking I was maintaining the correct size on the log. I managed to keep the final height on the top beam consistent to 1/8 of of an inch along the length, it might go up and down a bit.
  7. May I recommend Oscar Duck for this list: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeRbUDXuFXY8iqnAbs0o1NA He's got a small channel, only 2k subscribers so maybe people have not heard of him, but he puts out a lot of interesting and educational videos. Looks like high quality content to me so I figure he deserves some exposure. Last video was making 800 nails
  8. Thanks for the detailed walkthrough Frazer, though I haven't had any free time the last few days, busy framing walls right now
  9. He and his brother is somewhere between 5 to 6 kg which is a decent cat size.
  10. I was lying in the hammock a few days ago, had to take a break from the shed build. We had 32 C (almost 90F) in the shade, which is very warm for Finland when I got a visitor:
  11. Torbjörn lives in another country from me, it's not realistic for me to visit him. I did ask Torbjörn directly though and he said most firepots in sweden he'd seen where of his size, he did say he'd use bricks to make it bigger if needed, though that rarely seemed to be required. I am guessing the clinker breaker and fan must have an effect too, if it spreads the air widely instead of a concentrated blast for instance and if the fan is on the low pressure side. At any rate for me it's mostly intellectual curiosity I use a side blast for now so not really relevant. I've thought about building a bottom blast, but maybe I'll stick wi th the side blast, it's nice not to have to think of fishing clinkers all the time. I was looking at this blueprint if I were to try make a bottom blast as it seems proven, but I have a lot more in fabrication equipment than most so I was thinking of a real clinker breaker and not a grate then. Or a bullet grate, that looked like a nice design, so clinker was shed around the air intake in a donut form. http://magichammer.freeservers.com/fabricated_fire_pot_by_bob_patri.htm I've not had time to do more forging the last few days since I've been hewing logs for my shed / smithy build and I got a load of lumber so I can start putting up the walls. I modified the tuyere so it aims downwards now, that's my next test.
  12. Re: torbjörns forge, he had a video where he demonstrated it and gives measurements, depth 52mm or almost exactly 2":
  13. That's a simple change to try, I'll see what angling the tuyere downwards does for the fireball shape.
  14. This about firepot depth in bottom blasts is also something that I find tricky Anvil, torbjörns regular cast iron firepot is only 2" deep and he does forge weld in that too. I find it strange tbh how there can be such variation in pots. Anyway I looked at my forge last night and I ran it and what I could see the fireball seems to keep to the left, near the tuyere, as if the air rises upward quite quickly, doesn't propagate very far to the side. The heat seems to be quite localized thus, trying to heat a stock on the right side took a very long time, those coals where not even glowing. I had a piece of stock in the fire and I kept looking at it to see if it was scaling. But I couldn't say for sure if there was scaling going on or not, sometimes there seemed to be some but might've been because I moved the stock too far to watch it. Other times the stock looked clear, but might have a couple of tiny spots that I wasn't sure if they where oxidization or not. So my idea is I need to make the pile higher instead of wider, or both.
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