Jump to content
I Forge Iron

DennisCA

Members
  • Content Count

    132
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DennisCA

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Finland

Recent Profile Visitors

274 profile views
  1. This is for sale right next to me for a measly 5 euros. It's a billnäs 12.3 axe head and it looks in pretty rough condition, someone really hammered on that poll. I am wondering if it can be saved. Or remade for a new purpose? My ideas are if I could heat up the poll and reforge it into shape, perhaps so hot it forged welded the cracks back (possibly not a realistic notion). Alternatively cheat and use tig welding and fusion weld the cracks, then reforge it. At the least hammer it back into something like the original shape while leaving the cracks might be an improvement. My other i
  2. Nice canopies, I wonder if I would be able to do something like that... Windows let a lot of heat in during summer... no AC
  3. That stuff is definitely worth money
  4. Sounds like a good candiate for a floor replacement in a conventional forge too if it solves the problem with flux that well.
  5. I do believe it's recommended to encapsulate it with rigidizer, that is also sold alongside the insulation. We really don't have much choice here at any rate, it's the only store I know of that sells anything related for making forges, and it's in the next country over.
  6. The local suppler here sells something called superwool, which is said to be much safer than kaowool, I was looking at that for my diesel forge build. Expensive, but I was told I can use a layer of superwool and ordinary rockwool behind that.
  7. Interesting. I had read solid refractory forges could not achieve welding heat, though no reason given... But I was given to understand stuff like kaowool was to be preferred, with refractory for the floor only.
  8. Drinking coffee outside, getting a visit
  9. I prefer older 3phase transformers if possible. It's usually possible to repair them. I have a TIG that's thyristor based, it feels like it's halfway between a transformer and an inverter. Only does basic DC, but has lift and HF, built in 1994, like a tank. My mig welder is also transformer based, though it was made in 2011.
  10. Yeah, here's another one. I can tell that all these homemade versions have not got the two adjustable features of the ABNO 25 kg hammer. I am unsure what purpose the rear adjustment does on the ABNO, the front adjustment seems to allow you to raise and lower the head. The read adjustment seems to move the rear connection in and out, it obviously has some effect, rigidity of the setup I guess, perhaps further out means more flex which is perhaps desired in some operations, and vice versa. Those two adjustable features really seem important for a versatile hammer though. And the clutch in
  11. I did a google image search of this site (that really works well) to help me find similar looking power hammer builds and I can see the concept I have in my head has been made by others several times. Looks like workable idea, though a solid post ought to be used for the anvil support.
  12. Sorry for lifting this old thread, but I've really developed an affection for this powerhammer, the Abno no.1. That's all. ... No wait I too wonder about maybe manufacturing something like this, one day. I was thinking if you'd go about this on your own you'd likely weld the frame from square tubing mainly, and probably a solid round post for the anvil. How would a welded frame compared though to a cast iron one I wonder. Lighter for sure, but would it be as good at absorbing vibrations, would the frame be as stiff (I think it might, given proper design). The inside of the frame
  13. Brought my forge out of it's winter hibernation (I just left it outside all winter...) Reshaping the clay firepot, got soaking wet over winter so I just had to get rid of all the old crud and reshape it, a lot of ash has been worked into this "dough" as I've reshaped the firepot over and over again. I never really had a chance to test it once I fitted the latest change, which was a bigger air hole, now 1" diameter instead of the old 18mm. Set a wood fire and dried it out. Ready to be used with coke, of which I bought two more 22kg bags (95 eurous, ouch, but it seems to last a
  14. Not in the shop and not today, but I have debarked and cleaned up the logs, three of them will become the beams of my new shed / smithy. Two largest ones will be side beams and the smaller one the main top beam, as it will have the least weight on it, the side beams will take the majority fo the load. Chainsawing and hewing in the future. They are all around 5 meters long, the smaller ones I am not sure what I will do with, the short one hiding behind the biggest log I am wondering if it could be made into a stand for my post vise.
  15. We applied the first coat in 2016 I think, then another in 2019, maybe next year we'll do another. But it's mostly only a few areas that get worn though, but we do it all. And we do it when it's warmest in the year so it dries as fast as possible.
×
×
  • Create New...