Metallurgy

Obviously this is an easy question for anyone who works with metal. However I am currently writing a book, as I mentioned in the introductions board, and had an idea that has to do with these two metals. I searched around through Google for a while, and Yahoo! Answers as well before I decided that a forum for blacksmiths would be the best place to ask these kind of questions. I'll list my questions line by line below, and thank you for all of your help! Is it possible for gold to be folded into steel while it is being forged? Concerning this question, I'm thinking more along the lines of the gold being added in small amounts as opposed to equal quantities or large amoun…

So I just got a Champion firepot and tuyere, both covered in rust. I wire brushed the firepot and got the nice patina to show, although I'm wondering how to get the rust out of the inside of the tuyere and off the clinker breaker. I know you can soak it in some things like vinegar or other acidic things but I was looking for a good way to get it without risk of damage.

Hey guys, I've been looking online and I've seen a few videos on various methods of how to copper plate brass and other things without the need of electricity. I am making a large wire sculpture and wanted to try copper platting, but since the sculpture is huge (6 ft long and 2.5 ft wide) electroplating and chemical baths submersion seem difficult. I've seen a lot about copper sulfate , but is there a formula where you can make a spray/ paint on solution to copper plate steel wire? I'm using 9 guage cold rolled steel. I have already heavily wire brushed it and applied non reactive degreaser. Thanks!

I recorded a short clip the other day of making bare steel rust quickly by using diluted brick cleaner, followed by water. I let it run in real time so folks can see how quickly it works. I have used diluted vinegar in a similar way before but it makes your work stink and attracts every wasp within a mile. Rust is a popular finish with folks in this neck of the woods and as I had to deliver some sculptures to a show that afternoon I needed them rust quickly.

I’ve got a set of spurs that I’m repairing and refinishing for a guy, that are either browned or rusted. He wants them blued so I had planned to just dunk them in vinegar overnight to strip the rust off of them and clean them up before I do any repairs on them but I know nothing about the silver that is on them. If the vinegar just causes the silver to tarnish then that isn’t a big deal but they are not tarnished now so I’m guessing that it won’t tarnish from the vinegar I just don’t want it to get pitted.

Update: a bust. Realized after a couple of hours that there was no current going through the clips. I’ll have to take apart the charger tomorrow to see if there is a loose connection or something similar that can be fixed.

I heard about removing rust using molassas, what nonsense. But I had half a bottle in the refrigeraor and decided to give it a try. I put an old hammerhead covered mostly with rust and some remnants of the original red paint into a half and half mixture of molassas and water and sealed it up in a glass jar and put it out on the porch. Nothing happened for a couple of days. I left it soak for the rest of the week. Then I noticed some yellow scum floating on top and checked it again. The rust had turned to a black sludge that you could rub off with your fingers and the paint had loosened up to the point that it could be removed with a nylon scrub bru…

What is the chemical composition of the steel 2cr13? And does it go by another name?

So simply, thinking about alloys in terms of crystal structure, designing the alloy chemically seems the best way to go. However, I have found it problematic finding good intermediary chemicals (i.e., the elements exist in proper ratio to easily math, cheap, react well), and would like some help. Currently, I've been working with the crystal chemical formula of Cr2-B4-C3. I have all basic physical attributes down, I just need to actually make the stuff now lol.

Hi guys, I'm relatively new here and has a question, I've just finished my forge build and I've had it left outside covered in a tarp for a few days due to heavy raining... I think winter is coming sadly. Anyways I was just wondering what you guys preferred method of rust prevention on equipment is? I saw lots of topics on preventing rust on protecting finished work but not much on stuff you make them with. I was planning to hit it with wire wheel to remove any surface rust and paint it with a layer of high temp spray paint, would this be fine? Or is there more economic or simply better way? Thanks in advance for your time fellas.

Hello everybody, I am making metal roses now. I don't know how to remove the fire scale from the inside of the rose. Down by the base of the petals. Is the grinder with a wire wheel the only way? I was thinking that there might be an easier way. Thanks a lot, Blake

I've read that to bring out the pattern in Damascus, you need to etch it in acid. I know a fair deal about chemistry and acids, and I am weary about working with them (for obvious reasons) but I do want to do pattern welded knives, eventually. I have de-galvanized steel before using vinegar (weak acetic acid), it takes a while but vinegar is far more safe than more potent acids. I realize that zinc is pretty reactive, so even a weak acid can strip it, but is it possible to etch with vinegar? Would I perhaps have to concentrate it? Also, any general information regarding storage and disposal of acids would be very appreciated, I have very little actual experience with them…

I just came across a 2015 article describing a new development, in iron-aluminum alloys that are just as strong and as light as titanium alloys. The new discovery is a method to make such alloys non brittle. The new process is brilliant and should allow metallurgists to formulate even better alloys in the near future. Titanium is extremely abundant but is notoriously difficult to purify and hard to work. Therefor, it is expensive. Try this reference. http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/news/a13919/new-steel-alloy-titanium/ And enjoy. SLAG.

I just came across this article, concerning a new development in nanoscale catalysts. It's an interesting read in nano-catalysts. http://phys.org/news/2016-09-reveal-magnetic-rust-gold-nanoscale.html Enjoy, SLAG.

Metallurgy enthusiasts. This article should be of interest http://phys.org/news/2016-08-alloy-oxidation-breakthrough-steel-production.html SLAG.

This really seems to be alchemy but- The first time I read about it the source was not quite reliable so I did not believe it but I have now seen it in a more reliable source so I start wondering. My question is: Has anyone of you tried it? The magic procedure is to "smear" cast iron on hot mild steel and create a kind of case hardening. The cast iron of course has excessive carbon and it might transfer if both pieces are hot enough but.....

I'm a big fan of Gibbs Brand penetrant, but in the wake of limited funds I cannot afford such a luxurious blend of oil ($11-$12 for 12 oz. can)... So, I took to the internet in search of a recipe, and found some interesting info... Low and behold, there is a thread that exists out in the interwebs that reveals the secret gibbs formula; the OP also states that the inventor of the formula verified it's true composition... 1 Part ATF (automatic transmission fluid) $4 1 Part Laquer Thinner $5 ... You should believe everything you hear on the net... :blink: So I went to wally world, and picked up a quart of each, to test the above formula and quite honestly it behave…

I recently heard about using PH Down which is a pool chemical in a bath for removing scale on forged items. Anyone tried this and if so in what concentrations? I assume the results would be similar to vinegar as it would be acidic? Thanks, Pat

Not the kind of problems you're probably thinking of. I'm going for a rust finish on a project for a friend. Living in Michigan, I've left it outside in the damp for several weeks. A good start, but some areas aren't rusting. I poled around on here and found a concoction of H2O2, salt and vinegar which sped the process along, but not fast enough in certain areas. The areas that aren't rusting (tips of the horseshoes shown below) were parts of the horseshoe that were stamped with the brand name - I used torch welding rod (sorry don't have the brand or composition right now) to build up these areas. I suspect that's the issue. Any tips?

I bought several hammer heads yesterday at an auction and decided to try electrolysis to clean away a bunch of the rust. That said I don't have a car battery charger but I do have a 12v power supply I'm planning on tryin and I have the other things I need for the project but I wanted to get tips from someone who's done this before. I'm rounding up the stuff I need now but I don't wanna start runnin it today if it's gonna take several hours of babysitting to get done. Also any special warnings I may not have seen while browsing online would be greatly appreciated.

There have been several discussions on the merits (or demerits) of simply using vinegar to remove rust from steel. I finally got around to shooting some before and after photos of VERY rusty horseshoes that I needed to de-rust to show how effective, simple and easy it is. I do this all the time; cleaned up 13 horseshoes this go-round. These had been laying around in the wet dirt for who-knows how long. I wire brushed the loose stuff off with my anvil wire brush, removed any nails then covered them with regular white vinegar in a plastic bucket. They soaked for a couple of days then I neutralized them with a weak baking soda solution, rinsed with water and dried. …

ive make a flint striker from a nickel son file i might try some lower carbon steel id like to try color case harden but not sure how HELP ME

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has had experience plating their work? I make a lot of small objects (spoons, ladles, bottle openers etc...) and have wondered about getting some plated. How easy is it to plate hand forged work? My work is relatively rough (hammer marks etc...), I've been told it is much easier to plate smooth objects, I presume all scale etc. would have to be removed. I'm sure there are other things I haven't considered, so any thoughts or advice would gratefully received. Cheers, Nate

Hi guys, I know there are some topics about flux powder but I have not seen any post about making electrodes. So I am trying to make an electrode by myself. After some research, I have found out that the main equation for the electrode is low carbon steel rod+ flux powder+ Silica = Electrode I got the low carbon steel rod with 2.5mm diameter and Silica is just a pure sand which I have it but regarding to the flux powder, there are many different ways to make it depending on what type of electrode. What I am trying to make is E6013 type. Some of you guys were recommending Borax and Boric acid etc. However, in my country there is no products that is ready to go su…

Good day members Question: Is it possible to insert/absorb /forge in/by extra carbon into a piece of steel when forging? Something similar like case hardening where some carbon is added through the process..although only skin deep? This questions is focus specifically with cable forging in mind..since cable has a low carbon content? I surfed the net /Google but was not able to find a good explanation to my question... I really would like to hear from a person who will explain this to me since I am a novice when it concerns forging... Gert Odendaal