gote

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About gote

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  • Birthday 11/29/1938

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    Central Sweden near Örebro

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  1. It is also possible to "bend back" by laying the to be edge on the anvil and strike the tip. The contact surface with the anvil is long unlike the contact to the hammer so the "blunting" is usually very little and can be corrected in the next heat.
  2. Beautiful door. Envy
  3. Can you help me selecting lottery tickets This is a really nice find. If she were mine. I would not do any more cleaning, instead I would put on some nice finish, boiled lineseed oil or some kind of wax. Patina is easy to destroy and difficult to get back. It is an old lady and you do not want to embarrasing her by making her naked. As already pointed out. Use her and the top surface will shine.
  4. Horror Vacui applies to workshops
  5. I never use scroll jigs so I may be just showing off my ingnorance but it seems to me that you could use a piece of steel to wedge the start of the sroll to the jig. I do agree that the jig does not look particularly attractive. the start = innermost part does not have a bery pleasing shape
  6. Why? To me: 'Forum incarnate' is the object of 'is' and incarnate is the modifier of forum. Or do you mean that the forum is no carnation?? Please explain
  7. Forgot to say: My preference for wood is partly that my wood working shop is always ready to go and to stop whereas the blacksith shop needs starting and the fire and extinguishing it again. For a one-off, wood is faster.
  8. I would modifie that to "you should not have all eges sharp". There are uses for a sharp edge and It is practical not to grab for the hardy hole inset every time
  9. I would have made the "fork" and the pin from wood. In my situation that is the quickest way. You do not need to fix a punch the way you fix a hammer head. Many advocate the use of a very loose fit to decrease any kickback into the holder's hand. Traditionally we used handles from fresh hazel rods.
  10. I would make a forked handle that is high enough at the punch to allow me to put a piece of wood through the punch as well as through both tines but I have a good wood working shop so that is quicker than making a new punch.
  11. Postscript: If I understand Frosty right, his stand supports the anvil only around the edges. By that he achives the same effect as I do by dishing the stump and his stand silences the anvil well, so does mine.
  12. To decrease the ringing it is important that the contact between the anvil and the stand is good around the edges. I use the traditional tree stump and dish the top surface just a little bit. A small anvil I will bolt or nail down at the edges of the feet; a large one can sit in a routed depression. Even Swedish cast steel anvils become reasonably silent this way. If the contact is not good, the heel and the feet below will form a nice tuning fork with the heel acting as a loudspeaker.
  13. The best tong sits at the end of your left arm. Use stock that is long enough for you to hold without burning yourself. If the heat is creepimg towards your hand, dip that hand with the stock in water to cool that end down again. Do not use your right hand to do that. It will become slippery and that will impair your striking. Do not use gloves. If you hold the stock with a glove and the glove heats up you are in for a problem in getting the glove off and disposing of the hot stock at the same time. Do not dunk a hot glove in the water. If you hit cold stock the chanses are good that the impact will transfer very uncomfortably to your left hand so take a new heat before that happens. Plan your work so the cut off is that last thing you do. Cut off against the edge of the anvil as hinted above or use a hacksaw.
  14. And I use a little stainless gardening "hand showel" intended for potting compost in the forge. It is perfect the way I run the relatively small forge. I always have the fire covered so the short handle is no disadvantage.
  15. Agree with Frosty. Really beautiful