gote

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About gote

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  • Birthday 11/29/1938

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    Central Sweden near Örebro

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  1. Thank you very much for the info. Inspiring example
  2. Nearly the same here We need a certified safe securely bolted to the wall. However we can keep bolts and ammo in the same safe. I keep my guns in the neghbours safe. They are expensive. The safes I mean.
  3. If you know the density of the plasticine you can weigh it to get the volume then multiply by density of steel. To get the density of plasticine, use water displacement or make a good cube and weigh that. Steel density you can google. For tongs I would not bother. I start with stock that is long enough to hold comfortably with the hand. When drawing out the reins I stop and cut off and that is it.
  4. I concur with Thomas, My oldest hammers (150+ years) have no ears and the Mästermyr tools do not have any. In my part of the world I have never seen a hammer with ears. (only on axes but never with holes for nailing) Carpenter's claw hammers used to be secured by two (loose) strips of steel. These had a kind ot hook that pulled the far corners of the hammer head towards the handle and were nailed to the handle. The hole in the head had its smaller end on the far side.
  5. I agree 100% with John and Timothy. In my corner of the world, files always come with a plastic handle and there is a hole in it. I am quite happy with the shape but this is my personal preference. If you look at the bottom of the "Show me your shop thread" page 4 near the bottom you will see my most used files hanging on nails on the wall close to the vise I use when doing serious filing. I avoid having anything plastic near the fire so the material is no problem. Old files without handles, that I find among junk, usually are so worn that they are useless as files. I cut and grind them into bits to use in the lathe. If they are useable I make a wooden handle (with a hole in). In my experience it is good practice to use the full length of a file or saw. Not only is it less wasteful with the tool, It also seems to cut better and definitely cut truer since there is more control. The further out one holds It is easier to keep the tool straight when moving it. I find the traditional way of holding a file as shown in old books (and taught by my master) to be the most efficient.
  6. Thank you. Sounds as a good idea. If I ever try to make a small fire welded ring I will try it.
  7. The iplosion of a steel vessel is not like the implosion of a TV-tube. I have seen a vessel (several cubic meters) that was full of steam when Mr Murphy let in cold water. It looked like what you can do to a beer can with your hands but there was no damage to anything or anybody else. We always had our autoclaves designed to withstand a mishap like that. They were in principle, long tubes 7-8' diameter and 3/4-1" wall thickness. It was enough to put rings on the outside to make sure they did not implode or (rather squeeze flat). I should think that those pressure cookers, I have seen, would not be subject to any damage since the cylinder part is so short. The damage type is buckling and the "gables" stabilize the cylinder and prevent that. However I would not use a pressure cooker. In my part of the world a standard steel tube of appropriate diametre plus two gables of steel plate with gaskets of rubber sheet would fit the purpose. No welding needed or recommended. It is possible to find tube specified to withstand 100% vacuum. I would attach a nipple to the tube. (drill and thread), Lay one steel sheet on a table, A sheet of rubber on top, put the tube on the sheet then next sheet and the second plate on the tube. The vacuum will keep the bits annd pieces together. Obviously the tube should be cut cleanly in a lathe or other machine. I am not talking about cast Iron sewer pipe but pipe for pressurized applications. A supplier of steel tubes to the industry would be able to supply the tube cut to appropriate length. If you need a window , cut a hole in the upper sheet and put a sturdy piece of Plexiglass with another piece of rubber on top.
  8. Thank you Marcy, I am really impressed and I look forward to the video
  9. They used to repair horse drawn buggies and then they repaired horeseless buggies
  10. To apply old methods because one wants to try and learn or to reproduce a certain effect, I see as a good thing. Ardent believers that one MUST do things the way they did in 1867 exactly, (choose your year ) I see as weak needing a harness of kind to support themselves. Not in this thread I am sure.
  11. I finally got it. It is a glass jar with stuff in not an empty jar of shiny rock.
  12. Thomas, Do you mean sticking the tongs into the fire and press before taking the ring out?
  13. I share Frost's fear but screwed into a baseplate I agree you will be all right. It sure looks fancy.
  14. Very cool design. I love it as a piece of carpentry but have you used it a lot? It seems to defy the usual thoughts about stands being very rigid. Poplar is not the hardest of woods.
  15. Sand has the disadvantage that some kinds make a lot of (abrasive) dust. Some will also slowly shift by your stepping on them. My long term goal is to put in a wooden floor over my sand. (No solid wood does not catch fire easily)