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About Marc1

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Building, Metalwork

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  1. Nice stand. Complicated but I like it. You could do without the anvil and use the stand by itself. The anvil anchoring needs beefing up I reckon ... The best part of your post is a typo further up. I will not tell you what it is
  2. Love that broad short blade, bottom left last picture (skinner knife ?) Reminds me the knife the cheese merchant used to cut Romano or Parmigiano
  3. Marc1

    Christmas items 2018

    4) bend the 'arms' forward
  4. Steve ... from the many things I have learned and from the many more I could learn, making a knife is not high on my priority list, in fact it does not even register. But that is irrelevant. My observation was that woodwork and metalwork do not mix for obvious safety reasons. And leatherwork does not either unless you want to ruin your material. If we are talking about shaving a 4"x1" bit of special wood now and then ... well ... obviously that is not going to be a problem. Happy?
  5. Yes Thomas, I realise that a knife may have a wooden handle and a leather sheath. Somehow I don't consider making a knife handle "woodwork" nor does making a leather sheath qualify as a leather workshop. Actually I don't consider making a knife blacksmithing, but that is another story Anyone can do whatever he wants in his shop, I am just pointing at some incompatibility that are rather obvious. I like carving sandstone with a jackhammer, but i don't do that inside the shop.
  6. When folks ask about their new anvil, sensible advice comes in the form of improvised anvils of different descriptions. Usable? Sure. Desirable? Not for a minute. I for one, wouldn't bother working on a forklift thine to make a nail. But, conceded, that is just me. $400 will get you a decent anvil if you look diligently in the second hand market, and not necessarily online, in fact better not online. And it will get you a nice new farrier's anvil. Then you will need everything else and most likely the good part of another $1,000 just for starters. Then you will most likely end up spending another $10,000 in the next XX years. The good thing is that you will be buying tools as you need them, and as you can afford them. It is the process everyone goes through when building their workshop. There is a special satisfaction in the hunt for a particular tool, then the question "which one is the best " etc. My suggestion is to buy a anvil, whatever you can find, and get busy working on it. It will not be the best, it will perhaps not even be suitable, and you will buy 3 or 4 more after that one and none will be ideal nor perfect. Make sure your satisfaction comes from your work not from your anvil, make nice stuff you are proud of and eventually you will be a blacksmith
  7. Marc1

    Hello, I'm new - be gentle

    Welcome Ian, may your journey be full of happiness. Just an observation. Blacksmithing is not a hobby
  8. in relation to the request for marketing data and business model, I say not enough information. However I want to comment on one thing. Wood, leather and metal are three completely different trade, that require a completely different set of tools, workshop and skills. Just an example, wood requires power tools or machines that make sawdust or shavings. Metalwork makes sparks that ignite said wood residue, and leather needs a clean space with no sawdust nor sparks. Sure, you can make decorative stuff with all 3 medium but it will not be past the hobby amateur stage. You will need to settle for one if you want to do serious stuff.
  9. Marc1

    It followed me home

    You can make a corkscrew for a Cyclop's demijohn with that.
  10. Marc1

    Anvil Stand question

    I have personally installed back up generators for large factories, who's steel base was bolted to a concrete block and the concrete block sat in a deep pit on 150mm of cork. If we did not do this, the anchoring bolts would break loose in a short time.
  11. Marc1

    Riveted Fireplace Screen Doors

    Alice in wonderland comes to mind Very nice job.
  12. Marc1

    Double Horn vs Square Tail Anvils

    So are you in Canada or Turkey?
  13. Marc1

    Eckroft Gate.jpg

    Love that gate mate!
  14. Marc1


    I like it ! But I would run 32" tyres on that one
  15. Marc1

    Anvil Stand question

    It is all good and proper to elaborate on the physics of collisions just for the fun of it. Done it myself a few times. However when it comes to the simple matters of an anvil a hammer and a bit of hot iron, things take a different meaning. How many times have your heard about the rebound and how important it is because it returns energy into the work? Well I have news for you, it does not, for the simple reason that you are not hitting the anvil but you hopefully will be hitting hot iron that is plastic and will take most of the force of your hammer blow like the tires of your car when hitting a bump. What you want is a good quality anvil just so that you don't deform it and don't chip it's edges. And another thing you want is a good size anvil so that the remaining energy of your hammer, the one that is not absorbed by the plastic hot iron, does not rock the anvil annoying you no end. I cringe watching those YouTube videos with expert blacksmith and their wandering anvils and vices ... oh my ... can't watch it. There is not much more to it, despite what folks would like to make it. The super high performing stand is a waste of time. Get a good size anvil proportionate to what you are working on, bolt it down so that it does not ring nor move. If on a cast iron stand 1000 lb heavy or suspended from strings up in the air, makes little difference. Yes I said it and so did Frosty ... apparently we do agree on something, what do you know? ... tripod wins hands down. Sand and oil filled is not to increase 'performance' but to stop the stand from ringing. Hollow steel pipes ring like a church bell. But a stand is a stand, meant to hold the anvil up and stop it from tipping over. That is why tripods have legs at a certain angle. Read somewhere that 9 is minimum and 18 max ... (?) maybe maybe not. Straight is certainly a tipping hazard and 20 degree may be too much. If an anvil ever fell on you you would know that it is not fun at all. I take an oversize anvil pooreley anchored to a smaller one bolted to the center of the earth anytime. Oh ... and to stop a tripod from tipping, I have a nice trick. A piece of steel cable hooked under the tripod, a hook into the concrete and a turnbuckle to tighten it up. If you decide to move your anvil, all you need is another little hole in the concrete and another anchoring hook. Beats bolting the tripod with 3 or 6 or even 12 bolts like I have seen people do. If you have dirt floor ... well that is another discussion for another day.