• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Marc1

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Building, Metalwork

Recent Profile Visitors

1,353 profile views
  1. Glenn ... I admire you patience in the analysis of the above exchange, but I am afraid there is only one conclusion from it. The first sentence in the first reply was out of line and rude. The rest is only a consequence of that single sentence. A provocative reply is no excuse for poor behaviour, agreed. But a provocative reply uncalled for from a long standing member has also no excuse. Considering this is not the first time I see this happening and considering the little time I spend here, the chances of me seeing this happening more than once should be zero. I believe that those that have experience and knowledge to share, and are generous enough to answer, take into consideration in their replies that 1) We do not know the poster and assumptions are the mother of all stuff ups. 2) Courtesy does not cost much and is not a sign of weakness. Nuff said. M
  2. What's the question Jackhammer? You want to know if PW is a good anvil, the answer is yes. As for being popular ... not sure what that really means. Popular as in there are lots of them, yes! popular as in everyone likes them ... I don't know. I suppose there are not many reason to dislike them. Like I said before PW are softer then comparable German or Swedish anvils. I have seen PW squashed like plasticine by long time abuse. From what I have read, they used to advertise using pure wrought iron in their production so their zeal was probably the reason for the softer product. In later production they started to make the face convex to compensate for depression of the face. Other manufacturers would use a mixture of steel and by pot luck incorporate some with more carbon that made the anvil harder. German or Swedish do get chipped edges, yet never seen one with big depressions on the face. If you are after 'the best possible anvil' you are in difficult territory where everyone has different opinions. Nimba, Refflinghaus, Peddinghaus, Kohlswa to name a few that still make new anvils are tops and you pay top dollar for them. Yet not as high as some people believe and it pays to know the good anvils new prices, since a lot of people pay more than new in the false believe that old is better than new.
  3. Thank you Scrambler, you have unscrambled the info. Great to know tha such low price for a noise suppressing device exist. Will order mine asap. Presbyopia or the sight of the presbyter, from the greek old man, has no relation with the cornea but with the lense. Two different parts in the eye. Yes the lense becomes less flexible and the ciliary muscles weaker. Cataract is the opacification of the lense not the cornea due to precipitation of the protein inside, accelerated by environmental factors like UV and also intense heat like forging. The cataract operation replaces the lense with an artificial lense that is held in position by different methods depending from the model used. The lense is of course fixed, for now anyway, and can include correction if required. Changing the shape of the cornea to replace glasses was done way before laser existed simply by making radius cut in the cornea so that the scarring tissue changes the shape and produces the desired correction. Laser makes the cut more precise. Damage to the cornea if it is permanent can only be corrected with cornea replacement from a donor. Cataract operations were done hundreds of years ago without surgical instruments particularly in India. The "guru" would put the blind patients in a line and walk the line chanting and making noises. Then he would place index and thumb over the poor patient's eye and pressing together, dislocate the hardened lense, breaking the iris and making it fall into the vitreous humor inside the eye. If the retina of the patient was still working he would miraculously recover the eye sight by the waving of the guru's hand
  4. I don't even own a straight peen hammer. It's all cross peen for me. I think that a diagonal peen may be nice, but then all it takes is to turn the stock a tad ...
  5. Agree, particularly with the 2 lb. Unless you're built like a tank, avoid the 4 lb and even the 3lb for now.
  6. i have seen many threads on the subject of beginners projects and the question seems to come up from time to time. Many good ideas are suggested yet what surprises me is the inordinate number of new members wanting to forge knives. What is it with new blacksmith enthusiasts and knifes? is there a TV series over there that encourages this activity? Are knifes particularly expensive? Not only is forging a knife a difficult project and I am not even getting to swords ... it involves so much more non forging work that it is hardly a best newby project if at all, after considering the other side issues involving knives. Then you get the ubiquitous "learn by forging your own tools". Another no no for someone barely able to make a barbecue fork. So, what would you consider a project that will provide a learning journey for a blacksmith enthusiast? From what I see at blacksmith gathering in OZ, most new people forge barbeque utensils, fire minding stuff, camping gear, hooks etc. What was your first time ever project? 50 years ago, at age 15 I started working with an Italian blacksmith. He made ornamental stuff like gates, beds, railings, window grills etc. with lots of scrolls. My job was preparing the scrolls start. I did the fishtail end with a cross peen hammer and started the center of the scroll so that it would hook on the jig. I did that day in day out. One day I decided I wanted to make something for myself and asked the master what he suggested. Premoli ... that was his name, knowing I had some woodworking skills and a carpentry shop to exercise it belonging to my father, told me to make a chest in wood and bring it over to make all the hardware for it in his shop. I thought it was a good idea and asked what size should I make it ... in my mind I was picturing a large pirate chest. He told me ... make it 8" long by 6" wide and 5" high .... boy was I disappointed. A miniature chest! And in wood! However I made the chest in cedar, and when it was the time to make the hardware he gave me miniature chisels, some sheet metal, drew a sketch of hinges, lock, straps and handles, and after work, I could do bit by bit sitting at the anvil cutting all the little bits, then clean them up with a miniature file, make the square head nails, and all the rest. After many weeks the project started to take form and for the first time I had started a project I could master and finish. Wasn't forging, and could hardly be called blacksmithing, but was a form of artistic metal work that gave me a lesson in patience, (little) hammer control, general aesthetics, filing, shaping and self esteem. I remember as if it was yesterday the master asking me what was I going to do with it. I said I will give it as a gift to my wife ... I was 16 then. Did I give it to my wife? yes I did 10 years later, and she kept her little bit of jewelry in it for another 10 years or so until a burglar raided our home and took it with him. Perhaps it is time that I sit at the anvil once more and take another lesson in humility and make another miniature chest to replace the lost one and give it to her ... may be this time all metal.
  7. That crack makes it almost worthless. If you post the location and phone number of the owner I may buy it for scrap metal ... Seriously now, that anvil is worth north of $3000 over there and some $5000 down here
  8. Cutting disk with power tool brand on them, dewalt or makita for some obscure reason are the worst you can get. You would think they would be the best. No logic. Buy Pferd, German brand distributed all over the world, relatively cheaper and decent quality. As far as using cut off disk especially the 1mm thin ones, great to cut thick steel, No good to cut thin sheet metal, They brake easy unless you have an extremely steady hand. Best is to use thicker disk say 2mm. The abrasive wheel needs a certain minimal surface to grind on, if you cut a flat bar that is 2"x 1/4" the wheel has a minimum of 6mm to grind. If you cut thin sheet metal the thin wheel will engage the metal at such rate that it will break apart.
  9. Intelligence is the ability to acquire and apply knowledge and skills and can not be anything but personal. To think that one way to do things is better than another is not intelligence, it's bias.
  10. Hi Scrambler. I am interested in that product. However when I search for Heil all I get is a list of earmufs with a microphone for racing or microphones and audio stuff like that. I know of hearing protection used for shooting with electronics in it but they range from $300 to $1000, one at $50 seems very desireable. do you care to post a link?
  11. Sure Glenn, when it comes to anvils it's an easy short list for new anvils. Second hand is the usual gamble. I was thinking more in availability then recommendation. Who is the local blacksmith supplies store? Blacksmith depo, Centaur forge etc. Surely no one would expect a warranty from you because there is a list on your website. Plus if you get the supplier to advertise, it is his ad and you are even further removed from the recommendation. Just my 2c ... oh you don't have cents ... so my 5 pennies.
  12. As far as powertools, if you can find made in Japan or Germany or Switzerland, you are safe. Most of the old good brands are now made in China. Milwaukee and DeWalt included unfortunately. Bosh Blue and Metabo if made in Germany are good. Fein Is good. Having said that, it all depends from what you want to make. If you are forging small stuff you will use your powertools very little so a cheap grinder, will serve you for a long time and may be it's not worth buying expensive powertools. I Use Makita cordless tools and Milwaukee 5" rat tail grinders. Have a string of grinders to avoid changing disk, then I use a series of pneumatic tools with the compressor. Great when you need to go into small spaces. A magnetic base drill press from Fein I found in the local pawn shop prooved invaluable for large projects but clearly a luxury same as my cold saw. I also have a long list of woodworking Bosch blue tools, but that is besides the point. My drill press I bought from a factory closing down, made for a local tool shop in Taiwan. Bullet proof. If you can buy a large stand drill press ex industrial you won't regret it. I can't comment on blacksmith tools since I had mine for yonks besides a couple of Blue cross peen hammer I bought a few years ago and I seem not to be able to stop buying anvils ... I will soon run out of space for them. However you have a long list of blacksmith suppliers in the US. I wish we had one decent one here. All we seem to have is farrier supplies. Wouldn't mind a nice new rounding hammer. Your blacksmithdepot sells Jim Poor rounding hammers for yeeks $195 ... I feel poorer already Anyway, a list of trusted suppliers would make a lot of sense and they could pay the site some publicity money I suppose. Not sure Glenn agrees with me on this one. I say ... Pecunia non olet ...
  13. The trick is to say, repeatedly ... what you want and where to get it, many times over, months before.
  14. True, or you can mill three channels to the center so that you get 3 raised areas and you have a stump on a tripod of sort. Never rocks.
  15. I wouldn't bother making something like that nor to set a price to it. It is well known that one off bits of bent steel or one off repairs are worth very little in the eyes of the customer. Whenever I get a neighbour dropping in with a piece of steel in need of a weld, a bend or a reshape, I either say I can't do it or I do it for free. I have a good story about that. I had the whole house carpets ripped off and floorboards installed. Big and messy job and had to call the floor sander twice, first to sand the particle board to glue the floor boards, and second to sand the floorboard themselves. Not cheap at $4000 from memory. The sanding dude, could hear me working in the shop and the next day brought with him the shaft of a lawn mower that was broken and bent. I said sure I can do that. Didn't take long but was a bit involved because it was also worn so needed extra weld and heat and forge and grind and file ... anyway. I did it because I can. Funny part came at time of me having to pay him. His face was an open book. He was terrified that after what I had to pay, his repair was going to cost a bomb. So he had an elaborate speech as to how he thanked me for this little quick job I had done for him for free ... oh my ... it was so funny that I did not mind having really done it for free. Moral of the story. There is no money in repairs or minor domestic fabrication, unless you specialise in repairs and get them all day long. Second moral of the story is ... always align your anvil according to the location polarity.