Marc1

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About Marc1

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Building, Metalwork

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  1. Our summer temperatures in Sydney can be 40+ depending on location. But only on some days and then with very low moisture it is not that bad. Most of the summer month are between 25 and 35 with the occasional peak. i don't know how it is up there but in Australia the media tends to report peak heat as if it was the end of life as we know it. We have one suburb in Sydney that is in a valley and tend to get extreme temperatures, even when the surrounding areas have much more moderate temperatures. Invariably it is Penrith that hits the news with it's record temperatures. I like to look at the weather dudes reading the temperatures and pulling grave faces as if we just declared war on China.
  2. Is this a decent design?

    Mine folds in half, and I skinned a whole cow once. Works ok, although my wrist hurt when I finished. Should have used a bigger knife but was the only thing I had at the time. Cow died from poisoning with Cestrum and I did not want the hide to go to waste.
  3. Is this a decent design?

    I have a skinner knife that looks like that. More like the first picture actually.
  4. Is epoxy really needed

    I agree that epoxide and their co-reactant are numerous and formulated for different purposes. However a quick search using the string " Storage of epoxy resin" brings up recommendation from different manufacturers including west system and they all say the same thing, almost a cut and paste of the text below. It is possible that there are a lot of resin that will store better in 5 C, that is in the fridge, I have a few marine caulking materials in the fridge that are still usable after 2 years. Two parts epoxy is not one of them apparently. Lower temperatures make the resin crystallise. This can be reverted with heat or in the microway oven but I am sure it does not make it any better. Store Epoxy resins and hardeners at room temperature (65°F- 85°F) in sealed containers until shortly before use. As with many high-performance epoxy resins, repeated exposure to low temperatures during storage (<55°F) may cause the resin to crystallize. Be aware that containers placed near outside walls or on the floor will often be at a lower temperature than the ambient conditions. If crystallization occurs, warm the resin to 125°F for 8 hours and stir to dissolve crystals. Hardeners may form carbamation when exposed to CO2 and moisture in the atmosphere for extended periods of time. Prevent carbamation by keeping containers sealed and pump reservoirs covered until immediately prior to processing.
  5. Is epoxy really needed

    Hi Frosty, two part epoxy should be stored between 18 C and 30 C ... whats that ... 65 and 90 F Refrigeration helps store a whole lot of glues and resins but not two part epoxy glue unfortunately.
  6. What did you do in the shop today?

    Is this wiht empty or full glasses?
  7. Is epoxy really needed

    Store epoxy in a dark place, no sunlight nor fluorescent lights. Buy one hour and not 5 minutes. If your epoxy is crystallizign it is not bad. You can put in the microway and turn good again.
  8. How exactly should I attach a leg to this

    The idea of a combination vice is to be able to hammer on the little anvil at the back and have a vice to hold things at the same time. Not particularly useful for blacksmithing, may be of some value in a metal workshop, farm barn or mechanic shop for small items. It's an old idea and there are many combination vice with the most bizarre concepts. Modifying it to a post vice is not practical. Post vices are forged steel and are designed to withstand a lot of abuse. However ... if you mean to say that you want to mount your vice on a post, that is possible. You can either weld a square tube to a base or concrete it in the ground and mount your vice on top of it. Just don't go hammering on the moving jaw. As for mounting the vice, because it is missing the base, you may be able to use the threaded lug and perhaps drill a couple of holes in the base to bolt it down.
  9. Friulian blacksmith

    We are most likely our own worse critics. I find your work pleasant to look at, complex and intriguing, and it screams ... long hours! i hope you get good money for them. Clearly not ugly. As for the person in that photo ...
  10. Friulian blacksmith

    Bravissimo Adriano! I haven't seen this kind of work for a long time. No knifes? Only kidding. My father was born in Florence. My blacksmith teacher in Lombardia. Do you get the new re introduced brown bears there? Keep on posting. May be a video of you making something. Mi raccomando Adriano ... sempre in gamba
  11.  

     

    1. Adry

      Adry

      I'm sorry I'm a blacksmith of great decorative works.
      I know nothing about weapons, only the basic principles of damask.
      In my life I only made a knife,  crooked and does not tocut
      Humiliating for a blacksmith, I was 15, I did not try to build another one.

    2. Marc1

      Marc1

      No worries Adry, my question was a joke. I am like you, I make gates, railings, bed heads etc. i have no interest in making knifes and if I need a knife I buy one. :)

  12. Fischer #4 double screw vise

    Any screw, new or old needs to be 'matched perfectly', in order to work. That is why they have standard sizes. Standard diameter and standard thread pitch or thread count. It is possible yet unlikely that those screws are of some random pitch, as opposed to standard thread count, but any machinist worth his salt can cut a square screw and copy any thread count within reason. Time consuming but not rocket science. The question here is not if it can be done, but if it is worth doing. Meaning, will the new screw cost more than the vice ... a different version of: the collar is worth more than the dog
  13. Common Beginner Mistakes

    The difference between a beginner and someone more confident, can be measured by the willingness to undo and redo what does not seem right, and this at the drop of a hat.
  14. Nice anvil. Will look much better once you have cleaned it with a wire brush mounted on a grinder, and oiled it. Automatic transmission fluid works well but stinks badly. I use a rag with some olive oil. It has those round shoulders from doing lots of work. Will serve you for many years. It is on the small side, depending what you are planing to make. Next is a good solid steel tripod to bolt it down ... then half a dozen of hammers, a dozen of tongs, a forge or two ... PS As for age ... it does not say made in England, so pre 1910 ?
  15. 8" Vise

    I have a stand like Mark Dobson yet it walks when I need to bend stuff despite being over 100 kilos. . Planning to strap it down with steel cable to a small fixed point in the ground and tension the cable real hard. As for steel sizes, just checked my steel supplier. We have 100x100x5 SHS and then 89x89x5. Clearly made to fit inside the 100x100 that is 90x90 inside. Good stuff, no need to reinvent the wheel. Of course one could use any chunky size for the post, cut an 8" long section off to concrete in the ground and weld an extension inside the post that slides straight in the part in the ground. Could be a cross made of flat bar, or 4 plates welded inside each of the post faces and plug welded a bit further up the edge to keep them rigid. Perhaps a heavy plate around the edge of the pocket in the ground to prevent the post from being smacked inside the ground section ... now I hope you can see what you have done here Thomas ...