Marc1

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About Marc1

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Building, Metalwork

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  1. how to wire up a boiler blower?

    You can probably buy a plug already wired with a meter or so of cable and spade connectors attached from your local electrical wholesaler. That little fan surely need replacing. It would be interesting to make one out of aluminium and balancing it properly. If you have the original covers for front and back, you could do without the fan and drill a hole in the casing to use some of the air from the blower to cool the motor. A bit hit and miss though to guess the volume of air required and so the right size hole. If you don't have the covers, I think you are in for more work than it's worth to get that thing working again ... unless you enjoy shaping sheet metal.
  2. how to wire up a boiler blower?

    If you are in the UK, it's just a plug and play then. Not sure you are allowed to do it yourself in UK though ... actually I think you can just like in NZ. So no issues with the frequency. You have 240V 50Hz nominal 230V. Your colour code is Brown = active ... blue = neutral, green is earth. Your wall socket has 3 holes. The top is the earth, the right side as you look at the wall is the line or active (some people say "live") and the left is Neutral. If you go and buy a plug, you guys use "G" type plugs that have a fuse inside. When you open the plug you must make sure to have the brown wire from your load attached to the side where the fuse is, (right) and the left is for your blue wire, neutral, and the green is your earth and goes to the big pin at the top. The connections are marked inside. Here is a video that tells you how to do it. This is a video for the UK and for G type powerpoint and plugs and does not apply to the US nor Australia. In Australia the powerpoints look like yours but upside down so the earth is below, the active is on the left on the wall and neutral on the right. US is different again. ://plumbing-n-electric.wonderhowto.com/how-to/wire-type-g-electrical-plug-294855/
  3. how to wire up a boiler blower?

    That is a mains blower but designed for a different country not US. Of course I don't know where you are so if you are in UK or Australia you are fine. If you are in Australia, remember that it is illegal to do any electrical work by yourself. That blower is for a 50 HZ network and in the US you have 60HZ. Generally small motors like that will work on both frequency with some limitations overheating and underperforming, however since you are going the other way, and the speed will be limited by the load, it may work OK on 60HZ. Of course suggestions to plug it in, is wrong unless you have a 220V 60Hz powerpoint in the house/workshop. No motor wired for 230 will run on 110V and don't even try. You could buy a step up transformer though ... always assuming you are in the US. Just to clarify, 220V 230V or 240V is more or less the same. 110V 120V is more or less the same. 110v and 220V is not the same.
  4. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    That's good. I have used scroll jigs more times I care to remember, and it is probably the only way to keep uniformity when you have a series of them and they need to be spot on like in this case. One thing that is the tell tale of a machine made scroll or a cold bent scroll is the start of it, that is the center of your scroll. I must say that most people wouldn't even notice or think of looking at that, but if you make one where the start of the scroll has been forged either flat or in a fish tail or round end, and bent by hand in a very small radius to hook onto your jig, and then bent hot against the jig, you will notice from now on the difference between the two.
  5. What Did You do in the Shop Today?

    Hi Stitch, nice work. How did you make the scrolls?
  6. Let it dry properly and it may come good. You can help it with a hair dryer on a low setting (Not super hot)
  7. Some like the BK Sydney have bolt holes but most don't. I could have used the groves that PW has for (I assume) anchoring purposes, but that would have needed double the number of holes or a bar across that would have taken away the area of the plate I want to use for upsetting. Funny story with the bolts. Bought 5/8" x 4" 1/2" and realised when I got home 2hours drive later, that the store had given me high tensile grade 8.8 ... I was planing to clamp the bolt in place cold, screw the nut on, heat it with the oxy acetylene and bend it. Being high tensile I wasn't sure they would be too happy of such treatment and decided to heat them up in the forge and let them cool down in a bucket of dry sand overnight. Since my interest in knifes and heat treatment is only equal to my enthusiasm for classical Vietnamese opera, I hoped (guessed) that they would lose the factory heat treatment and allow for an easy bend. The bolts soften up OK and I could bend them hot and have a couple of goes to get the angle right, but what I did not realise is that by having the bolts red hot in sand I completely fouled the thread and when I tried to tighten the nuts, two of them galled irreparably and had to be cut. Wire brush and anti galling paste took care of that.
  8. Thank you JHCC, it was fun to make and the anvil now sounds like it's made of concrete. Anchoring with big bots nice an tight makes a difference. Before it was sitting on a stand made of angle and a chain wrapped around it. It would move and made a sound you could hear a mile away. Working on an "outdoor" welding table now
  9. How are you going to add sand and oil now?
  10. Injured Grip muscles

    Hi DB, the injury described is actually to the extensors and not the flexors so doing that exercise with a rubber band as you describe would probably aggravate it. The opposite would be pumping an exercise ball, but since muscles are peculiar and both the agonist and antagonist muscle work together regardless of what you do, best would be to have a rest
  11. A couple of month ago decided to make a stand for my smaller PW. Want to do some larger work outside the shop and need it as quiet as possible. My neighbour gifted me a bunch of lengths of RHS 5"x2.5"x1/4 that were laying in his backyard for the last 10 years unused. We had to drag them one by one with my 4WD across a couple of backyards (we have no fence) and into mine. This stuff weights a ton. Ideal for this sort of work, done a vice stand with it, now is the turn of the anvil. Two issues to decide, hight and leg spread. For the legs angle I settled for 12.5 degree. Shady Grove, the chap that sells Reffies in your side of the pond, makes stands with 15 degree angle. They look a bit too spread out to me, and seen some other with 8 degree that seem they need a prop to avoid pushing them over, so, I thought half way should be just right As far as hight, I never use knuckle hight. This will be halfway up my palm. I am not very toll yet have gorilla arms and can scratch my knees without bending, so my stand plus anvil is exactly 790mm or 31" 1/8 in old money. Base plate is 1" When my neighbour gave me this stuff he confessed to try to dispose of it by cutting it into short pieces and put them in the rubbish bin once a week. He said that after grinding away for 1.5 hours just for one cut he gave up. He was using a 1/4" thick grinding wheel and a 4" Ozito grinder For the cuts I used a cold saw. My 200 teeth blade struggle a bit with this thick material. Should have used a 140 or 160 tooth blade but don't have one and at $200 wasn't going to buy one just for this job. Just a bit slower but it did it with no issues. Isn't it a lousy habit this testing the chisel's temper against the anvil side? This rigger slings turned up in my workshop some time ago and I don't know who forgot them here. They are very handy and so is having a 12" universal beam overhead to hang a chain block from. In order to make the anvil real quiet, I decided to fill the legs with sand and oil. A couple of bags of river sand and a gallon of motor oil. Did not like the idea of messing around with stinky sump oil and for $12 it wasn't worth it. Had the stand upside down and pushed sand in with a rod, added some oil and more sand and more oil until it was 2" from the edge. Sand and oil make a funny sort of paste. Then packed dry sand real tight, tack welded flat bar upside down then turned the stand around and finished welding. I had no oil leak doing it this way and the steel mass was a good heat sink, welded a bit at the time on each leg and they kept warm at the touch. The last bit of welding I waited till it was completely cool. Welded shut with no issues. It is amazing how this stand absorbs hammer blows delivered sideways on the legs. It sounds like it is made of hardwood. Now for the anchoring. I first needed the anvil to sit flat on the plate. Even with one inch thickness and a small surface the plate managed to buckle that little bit, enough to make the anvil rock. Peter Wright base is a flat lump of steel, so I had to do a lot of grinding on the anvil base to make it sit flat on the stand .... Ha ha, sucked in, no ... I did not such thing, I had to grind the base plate over and over until the anvil sat flat and steady. Blue die was real handy for this sort of fitting. Resisted the thought of just welding rods to the plate and decided to drill 4 holes with my trusty magnetic base drill. Drilling thick plate with this sort of drills and an annular cutter is just pure fun. 4, 5/8 holes for 4, 5/8 bolts, two 12mm plates a bit of heat and Bob is your uncle. Had enough of work now, do not disturb ...
  12. Refflinghaus or Ridgid ?

    That is a Hobston's choice. It's the Refflinhaus or nothing ...
  13. Injured Grip muscles

    Agreed. My big and medium anvil are half way between wrist and knuckle and my smaller one is even higher. Sometimes I feel like I want to lift the bigger anvil a tad. Tennis elbow ... if that is what you have, comes mainly from overusing the extensors on the upstroke so a heavy hammer or swinging it using the full length of the handle can make it worst. Place your left palm on your right knuckles and press down whilst you push with your right palm upwards, carefully. If it hurts you have tennis elbow. Don't listen to carpenters and choke the hammer, use a lighter hammer and give the arm a rest. Repetitive strain of the tendon insertion takes some time to heal and if it does not heal can become chronic. A strap helps too but only after you are better
  14. Injured Grip muscles

    You may have what's called tennis elbow. You can buy a strap made for such purpose to have around your forearm. Probably from using a hammer that is too heavy for you at this stage. Hope you get better
  15. Where is your vise mounted?

    "Mobile" vice. Peter Wright 6" on stand. Needed a bit of counterbalance so borrowed my son in law weights Legs are RHS 5" x 2.5" x 1/4" (gift from a neighbour) Base plate is 1/2" taken from old boat cradle. (You can see lines of pitting from salt water on the underside) Had to import the 5/8" square head bolts from the US to keep the vice original, nothing like it here. The vice was found by a local picker under the bench of a dirt floor workshop half sunken. Most bolts had wasted away and one of the spacers was gone too. The construction of this vice is peculiar and the mounting had me scratching my head for a while, especially the support with a sort of keel under the front jaw. I'll have a nap now