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About Marc1

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Building, Metalwork

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  1. Marc1

    Show me your anvil

    This sentence should stick to the top of the anvil section in my personal opinion
  2. Marc1

    A collection of improvised anvils

    For the lovers of railway tracks
  3. Marc1

    Show me your anvil

    Is this the French revolution all over? Paysan in French is not necessarily derogatory as it is in English. It could be if you really want it. In English it would be hard not to interpret peasant as pejorative. Yet coming from someone that is French, or worse Scandinavian, you must be a bit less prone to offence. In Italian for example, paesano can be used as an affectionate term meaning from the same region. As for the anvil repair, I am more interested in the method used by Lars for this repair. Sharp edges or rounded, is a personal preference. After all it is easier to grind edges round but very hard to go the other way. Come on Lars, gives us a run down of the method and materials used.
  4. Marc1

    Yet another anvil ID

    If the vice and the blower don't need repairs, and if the anvil is not soft, you are getting almost all you need to get started. If you don't have anything yet, it seems a good deal. If you don't need forge or vice ... then may be a bit pricey? Try a lower offer. Remember that if are not ashamed of the price you offer, you are offering too much
  5. Marc1

    Show me your anvil

    Can you describe the process and the materials you used for the repair? Is the anvil still hard? Nice stand. Did you bolt the anvil through the base plate? Never seen it done that way.
  6. Marc1

    The Vise to end all Vices.

    Ha ha aaamax ... the title of your thread with that spelling makes for a good play of words. Did you manage to clean the vice (s) up and mount it?
  7. Marc1

    Notching thicker bar....

    Why do you cut stock away? Make a cut along, in the centre with a hardy tool ... or your grinder with a 1mm disk if you want, and forge each side in the shape you want. It will look much more authentic and no missing material
  8. The OP stated he has already purchased an ASO. He was told to ditch it and build a makeshift pseudo anvil. I say, forge on the ASO, and beat it out of shape. By the time it becomes useless, you will have gained some experience and will have the urge to buy a proper anvil. A RR on end is not the answer in my opinion. It requires more hammer control and presents some danger to a beginner. An adult conversation is based on mutual respect. I can say I disagree with you and even that you are giving bad advice without adding abuse and insults. The OP does not have the the benefit of a teacher and is not working in a classroom. PS I worked on a soft anvil delivered by the manufacturer without heat treatment by mistake back in the sixties. By the time the rep came back to replaced it I had worked on it for a month. Sure it was a bit of a pain and I used the other's anvil when possible, but I did used it for commercial work. I wouldn't be able to do the same on a hammer head or RR on end. The anvil was retrieved and replaced. After 40 hours a week it looked rather sad. A beginner doing hobby work on it would be able to use it for a year or more.
  9. Marc1

    Vice information

    It appears to be in good used condition. Can you see any brand name on it? Price varies with location. A search for a similar vice posted in your area may give you an idea. I am sorry for your loss.
  10. Etc etc ... Skipping the personal attacks from Frosty and now Charles, my point is that this is poor advice. It is harder to forge on a RR on end and impossible to forge larger projects. It is much better to forge on a cheap anvil mounted properly, particularly when the new person has already purchased the said cheap anvil. The bias and prejudice displayed by some of you guys is rather disturbing.
  11. Marc1

    Wooden Handles

    Interesting that the Bald Cypress (Taxodium Distichum) is not listed. I used to make Beehive boxes with bald cypress due it's resistance to rot, yet it was the bane of the machine operators that had all sorts of allergic reactions and much preferred to machine poplar or pine.
  12. I can see a contradiction in your answers. First you say we have to align replies for the beginner. But you follow with a Rail on end is the way to go. If you are a beginner you don't try circus acts forging on a ridiculously small bit of a rail. Sure it can be done. The question is why would you? If you have a choice of a cheap anvil, go for the cheap anvil and forget the rail on end. Or use it on its side and put up with the noise and other drawbacks. When you have learned to forge a dime into a butterfly using a pickaxe for a hammer may be you can then be comfortable forging other items on the pitiful size a rail on end offers. For a beginner ... find a lump of steel of reasonable size and forge away. It is not how you do it but what you do. And of course the tools used vary according to the project. It would be a challenge to find project for a beginner to be forged on the end of a RR. Sure there are a few. All much better done on the side and not the end of the RR, and despite the fact that the end of the RR is much better as an anvil than the side as I tried to explain before. And a RR on its side can be made better as described before, for little or no money. You could even drill a few holes in the base and bolt it down on an engine block using the bolts for the cylinder head. I read many times on this forum how wonderful some primitive smith are in using rocks for anvils or hammer heads. Sure, admirable but not a proposal for a beginner. If you want to make sure you discourage someone that starts the craft, tell him to forge on the end of a rail.
  13. Ha ha, Frosty, you never cease to amaze me. I would like you to show me how to forge 60mm x 6mm and make a scroll the hard way on the end of a rail. And straighten on the side of an unsupported rail fitted vertical. Of course anything is possible. One could forge using the concrete kerb on the street in front of your house. We are talking about cheap solution for a beginner that will have some practicality. I say use a ASO anytime. As far as what you think about my person, it is no secret ... and also irrelevant.
  14. Impressive flexibility! I honestly don't see how a RR track on end can ever be better than a bad Chinese anvil. The limitations of such small surface are way too much to even consider. A bad soft anvil will provide a larger surface, and make forging possible. Note I say possible not ideal. A RR tack on end would be impossible to use but for the smallest or narrowest of items. May be you can forge a small knife on it? I don't know, I wouldn't even try. The RR track works better vertical because in that way the mass under the hammer is maximised. In the horizontal position, the hammer pushes the place of impact down but the ends of the section of rail do not follow, they can remain behind due to flexibility and do not contribute the required inertia to counteract the force of the hammer blow and so the rail dips down in the place of impact. If you imagine using a single leaf car suspension as anvil, and hit it in the middle you can picture this effect better. Steel flexes a lot more than it may seem. Check the span tables for universal beams or RHS or SHS and you will be surprised. Having said that, If I had no other option than using a RR track to forge (note to forge not to test rebound) I would not hesitate using it on it's side and not vertical. No amount of rebound and mass under the hammer can compensate for the lack of surface to work with. My conclusion is, that if the options are: A RR vertical, a RR horizontal, or a Chinese ASO, and I am forging any of my usual stuff, gate, window grill, gate lock, bed, table, lamp, chair whatever. i will have to settle for Chinese ASO anytime. Second horizontal RR. Vertical RR would be of no use to me. May be I can forge a thumb latch for a gate lock? yes, with a small hammer and asking myself why do I bother ... Note for the RR enthusiast. You can make some limited improvement to a piece of rail if you are really keen. First would be to increase the rigidity of the web. Two flat bar 1/4" or 1/2" thick that fit snug between the foot and the head welded all along can help with that. Next is to give the best possible stand to this contraption. I would chose the biggest chunk of steel you can find, be it universal beam, thick plate, heavy SHS or RHS with thick walls, and weld the base all around to the stand. Avoid cutting the ends to mimic a heel or a horn. if anything I would go the other way and that is cutting the rail at 60 degrees to give the ends more support with a taper outwards and stop the ends of the head from flapping around.
  15. Marc1

    80lb anvil ID?

    A) too small in my opinion B ) Unknown origin, quality etc. C) Most likely too dear considering point A and B. Offer $100