Marc1

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About Marc1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Interests
    Building, Metalwork

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  1. Hi Balyrion. If you want to make knifes, a gas forge will do, if you want to make bigger decorative stuff, you may have difficulties fitting what you make inside a gas forge, particularly scrolls or other larger pieces. A cheaper way to get started is with a coal forge, If you can place the forge outside the shop, you can forego the need for a chimney. Gas is very convenient but has it's limitations unless you build a monster forge, and then it will suck a lot of fuel. What other tools have you got? Or do you need to buy everything? As for political statements, if politically correct or incorrect, I wouldn't worry about them too much. Everyone has an opinion and likes to express it. You can agree or disagree. After all no political comments is a political comment in itself. Blacksmithing is more interesting though.
  2. Now that is a vice !
  3. if you look at what is sold in the shops this days, you will see why someone would call his work traditional blacksmithing. 99% of lamps, gates, outdoor furniture, beds with some attempt at shaping them in scrolls, are made with hebo or similar machine and have never been heated, all worked cold and slapped together with bad electric welds that still have the spatter under the paint. I think that whoever sells his work as traditional blacksmith work, is simply attempting to differentiate forged from cold metal work and has no intention of going into intricate definitions or pretense of perfection. Sure, one can speculate ad libitum what constitutes traditional and this thread is proof of it. If to warrant the title of traditional one must use coal and can not use gas, I say pull the other one. What about steel? or we must use wrought iron or bust? The list goes on and it becomes immediately rather obvious that one can do a piece of art, forged in a way that the masters of 300 years ago would be proud, and use modern steel, gas forge, air power hammer and a Hofi hammer cast with modern methods. I am positive that the name "traditional" is used simply to say forged in fire and not twisted by a machine in India. That is my take
  4. Interesting subject the one about stands ... I always tried to explain without success why it is not possible to "make" a 100lb anvil into a 200lb anvil by strapping / bolting / welding it to a 100lb stand.
  5. The letter is described to show '1000'. The prefix 'kilo' is derived from the Greek word chilioi or khilioi. Its short form was used for the metric system. So 5k could mean $5000 if de discussion was about money. Since the context is weight, it is rather obvious it means 5000g ... if you want to say kilometers you need the letter m after it. Unless we are hiking and you tell me we have another 5k to go. I will understand then that I probably must give up. In a metric country 5k is perfectly acceptable for 5 kilograms. Now if you want to enter the kilo force vs the kilo mass kaboodle, I pass. Too boring. By the way ... a much more interesting subject is the weight of hammers people refer to as their prefered hammer. Usually the weight of a hammer is related to the job and not the strength of the arm in question. I have to smile when people seem to make a contest about the size of their prefered hammer. The classic ...is bigger better? comes to mind. I try to use my 10k sledge hammer to forge my next scroll ...
  6. I have a 5k and a 10k ... what's that? 11lb and 22lb. They surely get very little use.
  7. From someone who does not use swage block and does not even own one. If I really needed to use one ... it is clear that using the block on its edge on the same stand designed to use it on the side is not a good idea. Unstable and way too high. i would make a stand with a slot in the center to fit the block down the slot and so having the working surface at table height. A shaft through the center and two removable supports at each corner means you can turn the block around without any lifting by removing the corner supports and replacing them. if you want to use the face you can build a contraption to lift it out of the slot and lay it on the stand or ... have a second block permanently on the side. PS You could have one permanently on top, flat, and another on the side of the same table mounted on a shaft that allows you to turn it ...
  8. It's an old superstition. A knife is a weapon and can be misused. If you gift a knife that is later used for the wrong purpose you would probably feel responsible. if the receiving party buys it off you even for a token amount, it is not longer a gift. A bit out there but in Europe it extends to other objects like ties you can hang yourself with (apparently) or handkerchiefs that can bring tears ... just a superstition with not much logic to it. Lovely anvil Jason, hope to see it polished with elbow grease
  9. Alec uses mostly just the one burner, the second occasionally and the third one in the middle he got rid of.
  10. Check out you tube for a Alec Steele video titled "Triple burner gas forge build" his design is very much like your diagram up here.
  11. Check around the base of the horn for cracks. Apparently this anvil's' horn was butt welded to the body and it can come off ... according to 'anvilfire'
  12. http://anvils.co.za/category/used-anvils/ Anvils South Africa 083 775 0975
  13. I remember when my (then) 12 yo daughter brought in a stray cat. Kitten really snow white and lovely but I was determined not to have any cats ... My verdict was, give her a bit of milk and off she goes. We were all around the cat watching her drink the milk when she turned around slowly and in a millisecond jumped behind the fridge and caught a mouse. Chomped on it to kill it and jumped again just in time to get a second one. The cat stayed at home for the next 15 years until she passed away in her sleep. Still miss her
  14. To me it looks like an anvil that had some repairs done to it and the patches of weld on the face are cracking. Just a guess from what I can see in your photos. Clearly you have not done the cracks with the flap disk only uncovered them. As far as what to do ... nothing is probably the best suggestion. Nothing in as far as repairs of any sort, just use as normal. worst that can happen is that the previous repair pops out and you are left with the original hole. if it ever comes to that, try to join a group that has anvil repairs sessions and then you can get into the nitty gritty of a proper repair. Hopefully that will never happen.
  15. i would avoid the place ... apparently there are some thieves around