I'm a big fan of Gibbs Brand penetrant, but in the wake of limited funds I cannot afford such a luxurious blend of oil ($11-$12 for 12 oz. can)... So, I took to the internet in search of a recipe, and found some interesting info... Low and behold, there is a thread that exists out in the interwebs that reveals the secret gibbs formula; the OP also states that the inventor of the formula verified it's true composition...

1 Part ATF (automatic transmission fluid) $4
1 Part Laquer Thinner $5


... You should believe everything you hear on the net... :blink:

So I went to wally world, and picked up a quart of each, to test the above formula and quite honestly it behaves like the gibbs oil, just soaks right into the metal. It's not like the messy (carrot juice) PB blaster, or like the new (specialist) WD-40 rust inhibitor ($11-$15 for 6.5 oz. :wacko: )which I've been stealing from my dad... The gibbs stuff just leaches on and dries to a wet "looking" luster.... doesn't have a wet white-ish oily film like the wd-40, -> which collects dirt...

** I added 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil for my own reasons, figured it wouldn't hurt, only drawback from the above mentioned formula is increased dry time...


All my equipment is semi exposed to the harsh Florida elements, due to working under a lean-to... Everything that I have used it on has remained free of rust for 6 weeks...Those who know florida know how awful the environment is on all things metal; the average lifespan of a galvanized gate is 3 years max before it starts turning into brown dust... Not a single glint of rust, and quite honestly I don't foresee any in the distant future... Also above formula is an insanely effective penetrant, that works just as good if not better than anything on the open market...


Long run costs totaled $15, which gave me 3 quarts...

Figured I'd share...


Quite honestly, if you have a home-brew recipe, which I've read a couple lurking here, please share...

I use 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone; it's real close to your recipe and the end results are probably the same.

IIRC, WD-40 is a fish oil emulsion and was designed to be a moisture displacement to help start wet engines rather than a protective coating.

IIRC, WD-40 is a fish oil emulsion and was designed to be a moisture displacement to help start wet engines rather than a protective coating.

Eds Red! I've read reviews that that mix, in scientific testing, beats all as far as penetrant is concerned... From what I understand the acetone differs from the laquer thinner in regards to evaporation... only difference...


Rgr, and it makes a mighty fine fishing attractant too... The new "specialist" formulas vary across the spectrum, and differ greatly from the original WD-40...

gess ill give it a try...

I use 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone; it's real close to your recipe and the end results are probably the same.
 

 

Same here.  Also, its the best 'penetrating oil' that exists - I have never used a commercial brand that works as well.  Has saved me countless broken bolts and fixings, not to mention time and money over the years

Are these formulas applied to cold metal or warmed/hot ?

The ATF/Acetone mix should be mixed as needed. 

 

I have always used it on room temperature metal. Let it soak for a while, reapply and soak some more. What is a couple of minutes after the parts have had years to rust?

Does the ATF/laquer thinner mix need to be mixed as needed or can you mix it ahead of time and store it?

Here is some testing that had been done.  I don't think you want to mix acetone and hot metal together.  

I broke a vise screw free with that recipe, it is an excellent penetrating oil better that wd-40 at least.

With acetone or lacquer thinner in mix, can this stuff be used in a spray bottle?  Or will the seal in the bottle deteriorate?  Easier application for large surfaces.  And no drips like you would get from immersion.

 

Well if it's an all stainless bottle and pump...acetone is death to almost all plastics! I'd mix it on an as needed basis.