Joel OF

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About Joel OF

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Kent, England
  • Interests
    Basic and bold designs. Music and drumming. Films.

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  1. Sorry to do that politician thing of answering a different question to what you've been asked but I can't help thinking there's a way to give you what you want without putting a hole in that table...if you want a hardy hole at a nicer height why not just get a decent size length of box section, (or even round tube for that matter), fabricate up a hardy hole to whatever size you want using mild steel & weld it to the top of the post, and bolt the post to the ground? The it can be place where ever most convenient too.
  2. I can't help thinking that to own a 2" thick cast iron bench would be an amazing thing and putting a hole in it is asking for trouble. Why does the hole have to be in the bench?
  3. When you're first starting out it can be a bit intimidating / embarrassing approaching a fabrication or engineering firm to sheepishly say "I just want a little bit of..." but every blacksmith has been in the position of not knowing what on earth they're doing & knows that feeling of just wanting to have a bit of a bash on whatever you can get your hands on, so approaching a local smith for their off cuts, or getting them to tag a few bits for you onto their next order may be the most appealing path for you. If I had a local person wanting some bits of bar I'd probably just buy it for them and make them work it off doing some drilling or something.
  4. New display

    I'm unsure from a few re-reads of your post if the presentation of your pitch is designed to hook in commission clients or lesson pupils. I think the first question commission clients will ask from seeing a board of demonstration twists is what's the comparative costs -- but a possible lesson pupil will be salivating and sold at the first glimpse of twist No.1
  5. Avoiding binding

    Yeah definitely interested to see any pictures you have that help explain the process and options. Always useful for future reference!! Cheers
  6. I found that tee-ing up a pupil with a problem but not giving them the answer or immediately showing them how you would sort it & instead making them think through the solutions got them to "think like a blacksmith" enabled them to become more self sufficient when problems cropped up. Eg unwanted bends/twists.
  7. Avoiding binding

    Thanks anvil, Unfortunately I have no knowledge whatsoever of bushings & bearings as I don't have any mechanical/engineering/agricultural background, so ways to include these sorts of things in designs goes well over my head. If a broze bushing is effectively a tube, how do you get it around the rounded up section (the top hinge) when you can't physically drop it on? Is it in 2 parts? Also, would a bushing required a shoulder to sit on to prevent it sliding down? Unfortunately because these gates are going in a public space all the fixings nuts are going to be shear nuts, so any worn parts can't be easily swapped out for new ones. I think this time around I'm going to have to rely on good spirited local public to ocassionally grease the hinges - top & bottom.
  8. I didn't notice before you're in the Forest of Dean. That can only be an hour from from F-Y-F, no? My local steam train line (Romney Marsh in Kent) uses F-Y-F coal, you must be able to get it easier than they can.
  9. Avoiding binding

    Very true. I just thought it might help reduce the nut on the backside being "worked". Although they're quite different I'm mentally scarred by the half collapsed farm gates I constantly see as a result of the nuts on their adjustable threaded hinge pins working themselves loose & so the pins rotate. Yes I'd planned on purposefully making the shoulder on the shank too short & packing with shims for adjustment. I'd planned on rolling some 2mm flat bar to match the curve of the hanging post. I'm also making some railings to go either side of the double gates - they actually funnel in towards the gates. The gates have to hook open onto the rails but the site is so uneven there's little chance of me having a successful mock up in the workshop so we're having a dummy run install before weatherproofing to check the fit. Cheers for your words of widsom.
  10. Avoiding binding

    Thanks for the replies folks. The horizontal drilled U sounds like a neat trick Marc1 - and the tenon length VS socket depth info was golden billybodgeit - I had assumed the sockets were really a tunnel so that water would drain through. The socket being above ground level makes complete sense. The posts will have square plates welded to the bottom & they will get bolted to concrete pads. The plates can be shimmed to level up the post. I think the socket will just be welded to the 100mm round hollow post, 5mm wall. For the top hinge I'm going to weld in reinforcing SHS to prevent the post from crushing as the nut is tightened up. The first part of the journal shank will be square (to prevent rotating) before it's rounded up & threaded to allow for adjustment on the backside of the hanging post.
  11. Avoiding binding

    Pretty much, unless you shimmed between the tenon & socket to bump it up in height. For the gates' site it's the best hinge arrangement.
  12. Avoiding binding

    Hello folks, I have some questions relating to the ground level tenons & sockets on strap & journal gate hinges. I haven't used this type of hinge system before but am due to use it on some gates I'm making soon - close up from design attached. In the accompanying sketches I have exagerated the angle of the gate back stile for sake of explanation. Due to site circumstances the socket will not be independent & will be welded to the gate hanging post, meaning the only adjustibility will come from the top hinge. In the event of needing to adjust the gates angle it will cause the tenon in the socket to tilt. I want to avoid the tenon binding on the inside of the socket & also avoid the tenon shoulder binding on the top of the socket. Is it common practice for the holes in the sockets to be flared & the tops of the sockets to be rounded over? I could alternatively make the shoulders on the tenon rounded back & taper the tenon.
  13. Check out my solution on that 3 way pass thru

  14. I'm shamefully lacking in technical knowledge about this sort of thing but I think Welsh dry steam coal from Ffos-y-fran is meant to be ok for forging. I tried some a while ago & if you look back in this UK section threads you'll find some discussions on it.
  15. Bottle opener

    Not if you make sure they kick out a tad from below the bottom hole.