Joel OF

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About Joel OF

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Kent, England
  • Interests
    Basic and bold designs. Music and drumming. Films.

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  1. That's one big time span to encapsulate in one hit under the blanket term of traditional. I'm not saying you don't know what you're talking about, personally I have very little interest/knowledge in "traditional" ironwork and I'm sure your experience and knowledge outnumbers mine 1000 fold, but as my Dad pointed out the other day (conservation architect) the Victorians did a lot of mock period ironwork, and in an O.T.T style to outdo their predecessors. Who does the traditonal work in that situation?
  2. Cheers. Now got my cutting down to 1 heat, I only forged that the other day & haven't done any cutting like that before so it's new territory to me. Angleing the cutter more now as well. Haven't been forging the bevel because I want the cutting practice!
  3. Hi folks, nothing too enthralling but I'm working on some cranked hinges using 60mm x 10mm flat bar for a local church at the minute and I recorded the hinge eye & cranking process for general amusement. I don't do much of this traditional blacksmithing kinda stuff as I'm more on the artist end of the spectrum but the process is enjoyable nonetheless. I'm sure the boys and girls that do this sort of work a lot will be better tooled up for it than me, (or may not need tools to aid the process at all?!), but in any case I thought I'd share this mainly for the sake of my anvil hardy tool which is proving to be helpful. Someone else who is as new as me to hinge eye making may want to copy it if they feel it'll help them too.
  4. If I could I'd hit Like on your post, Frosty
  5. Most definitely, I'm sure I wasn't the first! There should be a Like button on the site.
  6. I asked this same question a couple years ago.
  7. I'm pretty happy with my workshop layout so this question is more for curiosity rather than reference and is aimed at people who consider themselves metal artists rather than blacksmiths. Equally interested in people's answers even if you don't incorporate hot forging in your work. How does your workshop layout differ to a "typical" blacksmith's workshop? Pictures would be of interest. For example is the recognizable triangle of forge - anvil - vise still the heart of your operation, or could it be your bench, your welder and 15 grinders?
  8. I've seen the odd snippet of videos showing drawing out methods using either quite drastic hammer angles or the corners of anvils, but I wouldn't advise using this method if you're relatively new. It's hard enough as it is to produce a smoothe surfaced and even taper using the flat face of a hammer with on a flat area of an anvil, and to my mind these above mentioned drawing out techniques complicate it by creating many hard lumps and bumps that you have to then very accurately level out. My opinion probably isn't the popular one. In your picture your taper isn't particularly even, there's narrow areas and you can see from the reflective surface that the surface isn't flat. I would just focus on getting the fire and metal up to a nice working temperature (bright yellow) so that it's easier to draw out, and go from there. If you want to reduce surface contact then maybe move over to the bick and use a rounded hammer face (farrier's hammer), then smoothe out any softer lumps and bumps on the flat of the anvil with your flat hammer face. It's taking his advice out of context so he might not thank me for it, but @Alan Evans passed on a great pearl to me via the site a while ago - "do a little to a lot rather than a lot to a little". I find it's far easier to correct mistakes and produce smoothe forgings that way. Once you're completely comfortable with drawing out, then I'd learn the more aggressive methods.
  9. Thanks for the replies. I'm mainly commission based so don't that many simple stock items I could get an apprentice going on. It's really the ultra basic tasks that I need a list of as my most regular apprentice is very dyslexic, so marking out, measuring etc is a non starter, and he doesn't drive. About the best thought I've had so far is drilling collars (?) to have ready in stock so that I can then weld to fly press tooling shanks as and when required. Not sure of the right terminology, but I meant the bits of plate that sit flush against the fly press ram face to spread the impact.
  10. I infrequently need a spare pair of hands from a part time apprentice, and when I do I don't always need constant help throughout a day, but as I'm paying him for a full day anyway I want to get my money's worth out of him! What little jobs do you get your apprentices to do to keep them busy in quieter moments?
  11. I always take a large chalkboard sign saying "today I am making..." with example items right next to the sign. "What are you making?" is my most common question.
  12. If you need a straight edge to lay the item on to see if it's flat (by looking for daylight gaps underneath), just buy more flat stock than you need for the job and use that as a guide. 1/4" x 3" is not likely to bend on the hard axis, so just cut a bit of that off and clamp it in your vise vertically, then move your coat rack around on it and look for daylight. Laying it on lengths ways will show one set of valleys and peaks, rotating it through 90 degrees and running it back and forth perpindicular to it will show up twists. You're probably more likely to feel them than see them using that method. You're not going to need a very larger area to check for flatness in the coat rack, other than my flat-bar-in-vise method you could just find a small bit of RSJ and move it around on that. Make do and bend!
  13. I'm senseing a theme developing here... Cheers me dears.
  14. How do folks, Can anyone recommend me a suitable steel to use as a "depth spacer" under my 25kg Anyang? E.g if I had a bit of 25mm (1") square bar that I wanted to forge down to 20mm (3/4") square I'd put a 20mm depth spacer on my bottom die so the bar couldn't be forged down to anything less than 20mm. I've heard of H13 and that it's good for punches & fullers, is that the sort of thing that would be good for my use? I'm more of an artist than blacksmith and know virtually nothing about tool steels. I don't really want to be forging/hardening/tempering my own depth spacers from some sort of tractor axle that I'm never going to find, I just want to ring up a specialist steel supplier & buy some short lengths or a local tool maker and get some bits of scrap off-cuts. Cheers for any input.
  15. Thanks for all the replies folks. I understand gas how to make gas forges work better now & will probably build my own to suit my needs best. I've found a few tuition videos which seem pretty pool froof & will give me the results I want. Cheers again