Joel OF

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About Joel OF

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kent, England
  • Interests
    Basic and bold designs. Music and drumming. Films.

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  1. Just read that per chance whilst watching the DVD of Misery. (Kathy Bates, James Caan film). Gives your comment another meaning.
  2. cold steel spring back

    Needless to say I'm not going to make a HUGE gas forge that'll heat the full length of each bar just by throwing them in there & closing the doors, so how long a gas forge do you think I'd need to be able to heat the full length of the 48" long bars by pushing/pulling them through the forge a few times to stretch out the heat? Allowing for clinker clear out time as well, in the coke forge we were doing 6 an hour, so it was about 8 mins heat time + 1 min bend time per slat. One at a time.
  3. cold steel spring back

    Thanks for the thoughts. Annoying thing is this isn't the most time consuming part of the job, but is probably the only part of the job where I may be able to scrape some time off. My girlfriend gave me a hand bending these the other day & after I figured out the best method of stretching the heat out on the bar so the heat ran the full length we were smashing these out in 1 heat, in under a minute each. That was doing it in the coke forge so the only way I can currently see the times all making sense is to either buy/make a big gas forge, or put additions onto my existing jigs to increase their angles. I had a go at packing additions infront of my jigs and bending against them, then taking them out to see if the slat sprung back correctly, but without more forethought I don't think that'll work in a hurry because that attempt came out rubbish.
  4. To cut a long story short I've got a job on to make 6 curved benches, so far I've made the first one as a prototype. I've been hot forging/bending all the parts around jigs I made to bolt to my bench. The arms/legs are made from 40 x 8mm and the seat slats are 40 x 6mm. I need to speed up the process to stay on budget. 40 x 6mm will bend cold, but if I want it to bend to the right shape I need to make a new jig that's "over curved" to allow for the spring back. Avoiding trial and error, is there are any way of calculating how much extra curves I need to put into the jigs that'll allow for the cold steel spring back?
  5. Need to change my name

    I'd be tempted to keep it simple and just JB, or at most J Blades.
  6. I'd say it depends on whether you're a commission or product based blacksmith. If you're commission based then photos of previous work may be more important than displaying stock. For when I do demos I've made a couple photo gallery boards from foldable decorators tables that I fasten to bits of old railway sleeper. Off to the side will be a small amount of stock & business cards on a small table. The attached photo was a board I made for a local sculpture show where I demonstrated, so the emphasis is on decorative work. I help my girlfriend with her markets a lot (she's a baker) and I've noticed that the most common stall shape is an L Using a L shape means your stock can go across the front with a bit of space to the side/back for other bits and pieces that you want visible, but not for sale. Eg you may want to take a sketch book incase it's quiet and you get bored, or you may want to take a couple framed pictures of previous work that you're proud of but don't produce as a stock item, but it could be made to order. Your stall shape depends a lot on the size, volume & price of work you produce, but for my money it's always better to produce a small number of well presented items that are of a theme. Choice confuses people and I've definitely lost sales due to people's indecision.
  7. Intermediate Projects?

    Objects with moving parts always seem to demand more forethought, but not necessaily more forging skill, so may be a convenient way to step up a difficulty level. Even a very simple gate latch takes a fair amount of attention to make it counterbalance, ride and fall correctly.
  8. Rivet Heading / Upsetting Tool

    Are those wings you've welded on the sides so you can put it in the vise and hit down without it slipping through the vise because they rest on top? Especially as you mention countersinking the holes - I would identidy that more as a tenon making tool or a tool for rounding up bar to a specific diameter - but it should serve you as a riveting tool. If those wings are welded on for the reason I guessed, you may find you get twice the bang for your buck if you cut them off and instead use it over your pritchel hole, claming it shut with some G clamps. That would then also allow you to rotate the tool 90 degrees and use it vertically as my above mentioned tenon making tool. Unless you have a friend to hold the tool you'll want to weld a hardy shank to the underside of the bottom spring arm. I would suggest only countersinking the holes on one side, then the tool can be turned/flipped either way to give you 2 different types of shoulder on your bar. It's easy for those sorts of tools to flex out of alignment so I'd also be tempted to get it all aligned right, clamp it shut, then weld a small piece of flat stock to the bottom die so it covers the seam line, at the opposite end to the handles. That'll prevent the top die sliding over the bottom die and the holes becoming misaligned.
  9. Mousehole in Cornwall

    I was in Mousehole not so long ago, nice area with some stunning coastline just up the road. I took this picture on the shoreline below the hotel we stayed in, it's looking out over to Mousehole harbour. Also some heavy duty chain link in the harbour too that I liked the various stages of weathering on.
  10. My first bigger project

    Ooh I'm glad someone enjoyed them. You could drill out & redo the rivets if they really bother you. I had some great advice Re: symmetry a while ago from a master blacksmith - things can look symmetrical without every detail needing to be a mirror image or repeated, e.g trees. Many trees look symmetrical, but if you look at their branches they're anything but. It's now a design "trick" I use reguarly in things like gates, having small variations either side keeps things visually fresh whilst still appearing even. Pure symmetry can be visually stale quite quickly IMHO as your eye easily reads the image as there's no variation.
  11. long handrail join

    Cheers for the thoughts folks. Part of it's weatherproofing process will be zinc flame spray (similar to galvanizing) before a top coat paint so I'm reluctant to weld for the obvious zinc fumes...but also because I want the weatherproofing to be 100% throughout. In England rust is a constant PITA. I was thinking along Frosty's lines with a screw/bolt fixing if it's getting the zinc treatment...but you're selling me on the "paint on site" method.
  12. long handrail join

    Hi folks, I'm hopefully going to be doing a long handrail for some clients who have a Grade 1 listed house and garden. (Listed meaning it's architecturally important and additional work has to be sympathetic to the original building and approved by a conservation officer). They want the handrail to come straight down their steps, level out flat at the top and bottom, then curve off around the corners at both the top and bottom. I haven't been to site for a while but from memory the total handrail length would be about 5m. It would be made using half round square edge and made in 3 pieces as it's too long to manouver in one piece. At the clients request the posts on the steps are having feet that will be screwed down rather that resin/leaded in but the top and bottom curve sections will be cemented in. I think the join should happen around the area the rail levels out and at a post. I spent a few hours the other day experimenting to see if I could make the join work "in mid air" rather than at a post, it looked neat but it was too weak. (As you can tell I don't have a lathe yet). That experiment led me to think the join should happen at a post and I've got one or two variations in mind how that could happen, but I thought I'd put it to you good folks too incase I've overlooked something obvious. As they are local I plan to have a dummy run install to make sure everything fits ok, then take it for weatherproofing, then return once it's treated for the final fit. Can anyone offer up any ideas? Cheers
  13. Gas forge shape reconfiguation

    Thanks @Everything Mac that's brill, cheers. I'll post pics when I get crackin'
  14. Food "Forge" Ideas

    Don't know if this fits your bill but a while ago, under the direction of the tank owner, I fabricated together a huge old (propane?) tank and some gas bottles into a very big hog smoker.