Joel OF

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About Joel OF

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kent, England
  • Interests
    Basic and bold designs. Music and drumming. Films.

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  1. Avoiding binding

    Thanks @anvil Unfortunately I have no knowledge whatsoever of bushings & bearings as I don't have any mechanical/engineering/agricultural background, so ways to include these sorts of things in designs goes well over my head. If a broze bushing is effectively a tube, how do you get it around the rounded up section (the top hinge) when you can't physically drop it on? Is it in 2 parts? Also, would a bushing required a shoulder to sit on to prevent it sliding down? Unfortunately because these gates are going in a public space all the fixings nuts are going to be shear nuts, so any worn parts can't be easily swapped out for new ones. I think this time around I'm going to have to rely on good spirited local public to ocassionally grease the hinges - top & bottom.
  2. I didn't notice before you're in the Forest of Dean. That can only be an hour from from F-Y-F, no? My local steam train line (Romney Marsh in Kent) uses F-Y-F coal, you must be able to get it easier than they can.
  3. Avoiding binding

    Very true. I just thought it might help reduce the nut on the backside being "worked". Although they're quite different I'm mentally scarred by the half collapsed farm gates I constantly see as a result of the nuts on their adjustable threaded hinge pins working themselves loose & so the pins rotate. Yes I'd planned on purposefully making the shoulder on the shank too short & packing with shims for adjustment. I'd planned on rolling some 2mm flat bar to match the curve of the hanging post. I'm also making some railings to go either side of the double gates - they actually funnel in towards the gates. The gates have to hook open onto the rails but the site is so uneven there's little chance of me having a successful mock up in the workshop so we're having a dummy run install before weatherproofing to check the fit. Cheers for your words of widsom.
  4. Avoiding binding

    Thanks for the replies folks. The horizontal drilled U sounds like a neat trick Marc1 - and the tenon length VS socket depth info was golden billybodgeit - I had assumed the sockets were really a tunnel so that water would drain through. The socket being above ground level makes complete sense. The posts will have square plates welded to the bottom & they will get bolted to concrete pads. The plates can be shimmed to level up the post. I think the socket will just be welded to the 100mm round hollow post, 5mm wall. For the top hinge I'm going to weld in reinforcing SHS to prevent the post from crushing as the nut is tightened up. The first part of the journal shank will be square (to prevent rotating) before it's rounded up & threaded to allow for adjustment on the backside of the hanging post.
  5. Avoiding binding

    Pretty much, unless you shimmed between the tenon & socket to bump it up in height. For the gates' site it's the best hinge arrangement.
  6. Avoiding binding

    Hello folks, I have some questions relating to the ground level tenons & sockets on strap & journal gate hinges. I haven't used this type of hinge system before but am due to use it on some gates I'm making soon - close up from design attached. In the accompanying sketches I have exagerated the angle of the gate back stile for sake of explanation. Due to site circumstances the socket will not be independent & will be welded to the gate hanging post, meaning the only adjustibility will come from the top hinge. In the event of needing to adjust the gates angle it will cause the tenon in the socket to tilt. I want to avoid the tenon binding on the inside of the socket & also avoid the tenon shoulder binding on the top of the socket. Is it common practice for the holes in the sockets to be flared & the tops of the sockets to be rounded over? I could alternatively make the shoulders on the tenon rounded back & taper the tenon.
  7. Check out my solution on that 3 way pass thru

  8. I'm shamefully lacking in technical knowledge about this sort of thing but I think Welsh dry steam coal from Ffos-y-fran is meant to be ok for forging. I tried some a while ago & if you look back in this UK section threads you'll find some discussions on it.
  9. Bottle opener

    Not if you make sure they kick out a tad from below the bottom hole.
  10. I have a local light gauge railway that I buy small size scrap track & spikes (dogs in the UK) from. At Christmas I made a few screw-to-the-wall bottle openers from some of the dogs. To my mind the dog heads have the defining character so my design keeps that intact. Bottle goes from angled to vertical in the opening process so no beer is spilled.
  11. 3 way pass thru

    Meh, no one will notice :-P Two things that immediately come to my mind are that there's no swelling on bar No.2 and you can't see the setup from behind.
  12. 3 way pass thru

    I was just about to say something very similar.
  13. Finding A Place

    My first port of call would be a farm. In my area there's a farmers buying co-operative that sends out newsletters to its members - if you don't fancy walking up to a farmer's door then that may be a route?
  14. That's an ambitious first project. Some sleepy thoughts after a night of insomnia... 1) Rivets. Buying 6mm shank rivets will save you a lot of time making them & they can be set cold. Edgeing section = 25 x 3mm flat stock. 2) 2mm sheet or max 3mm would be my guess. 3) Felt glued on? 4) Rivet head bolster(s), at least one for maintaining the rivet head shape on the outside. A cranked bolster for getting to the internal heads - no need to shape if then hidden by internal fabric lining. Cranked bolster example, WITH shaped head.
  15. Is this common?

    Ah ok, I see where you're coming from on both accounts now. I never actually explained that my rounded up section only needs to be about 75mm (3") long. I like the angle iron trick though for checking straightness. You even take that one step further & clamp a scrap piece of bar to the vertical face of the angle iron & assuming you clamp the 2nd piece of angle iron in the same spot on the other side of the rounded up section, when the piece of scrap bar hits the verical face of the angle iron on the other side you know you're back to even. Dubious doodle attached.