Metallurgy

I am getting really intrested in casting metal. Years ago I cast pewter beltbuckels in a RTV mold. Now I would like to cast motifs for wrought iron beds (connecting square and round rod in the motif rather than welding and buffing). I have seen pictures of a prosses using steel permanent molds and ?? type of metal in a electric foundry. http://www.thewroughtironco.com/images/factory/pouring.jpg Is there a metal that is strong enough to make the connections for a bed, but have a low enough melting point to use RTV?

IT seems to be a craze lately to make your own steel, and its something I really want to try at least once. but I guess something I don't get is what is the difference between cast iron and steel? is it just part of the process where you don't let it oxidize? or is it a heat thing, anyway.. any help would be lovely. Thanks guys, Kenon.

Hello. I am looking for a source to buy some Ferro alloying chems in small quantities. Specifically some pure iron. I am in a hurry and have to rebuild the star chamber, and don't have time. I have been offered the use of a vac oven and equipment at a local University, to work on my new steel. All I need is 2 pounds of pure iron, toot sweet. Thanks, Jerry

Ive done a fair amount of twisting, and knew about this particular aspect of thermodynamics, but was quite surprised to see it so graphically illustrated when putting a little extra heat with a large oxy-acetylene rosebud. There you are with a cherry red bar in your twisting jig, drop the flame on a portion of it and watch as part of it turns yellow, but just down the way in both directions is a bit cooler than the rest of the bar, as the heat is robbed, flowing to the higher temperature section faster than it can be replaced by the remaining bar, the banding quickly equalizes once you take the torch away and the heat is transferring the other way from the hotspot to t…

Is it possible to ADD carbon to a lower carbon steel without re-smelting it? I know that there are legends floating around about this, but am wondering if there's any fact to the fiction. -Jim

Hello, I don't post too often in here. I was wondering, I want to get my old trenton down to bare metal, all it really is is rusty. Would soaking it in vinegar for a couple days work? Is there some form of rust remover that won't harm the metal?

Looking for sources for casenite or other case hardening compounds, and some general guidelines for the process. I've recently made a couple of simple knives/letter openers from horse shoes, would like to treat to put a little tougher edge on. thanks.

this may help some with the numbering of SS types. Stainless Steel Information Knowledge alloys 316 304

I use a product called Sparex #2 for my non ferrous work (ok, I use the active ingredient from sparex, sodium bisulfate IIRC, that can be had from swimming pool places a lot cheaper). It works great. A few minutes in the stuff when it's warm, and the fire scale wipes off. I know there is a Sparex #1 for iron and steel, but the MSDS for it doesn't list the active chemical. Seems to be made of something safe. Any ideas, or anyone use something other than vinegar for the same job? Jeff

From "Formulas for Profit", Bennett, copyright 1939, 4th printing "To identify iron from steel" "Mix 5 drops nitric acid with 10 drops H2O", (remember acid into water *NEVER* water into acid),"File a clean spot and place a drop on it. If it is steel it will turn black immediatly. If it is wrought iron or malleable iron it will stay bright for a considerable length of time." Use at your own risk! Thomas