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Found 7 results

  1. So I’ve been roasting my own coffee for a while now. I am no expert... but we’ve never had such terrific coffees! I use a cast iron frying pan to roast my coffee. I have noticed that this pan has developed a very dark and durable patina! I clean the pan with hot water and scrub it with a piece of stainless steel chain mail after every use, as I clean my pans after cooking. The patina persists and I wonder if it might be useful to treat smithy products with coffee? Has anyone experimented with this? I have not hitherto discovered a patina that seems as dark and durable as this one! It certainly seems much more durable than any bluing that I am familiar with!
  2. Hey guys, I've been looking online and I've seen a few videos on various methods of how to copper plate brass and other things without the need of electricity. I am making a large wire sculpture and wanted to try copper platting, but since the sculpture is huge (6 ft long and 2.5 ft wide) electroplating and chemical baths submersion seem difficult. I've seen a lot about copper sulfate , but is there a formula where you can make a spray/ paint on solution to copper plate steel wire? I'm using 9 guage cold rolled steel. I have already heavily wire brushed it and applied non reactive degreaser. Thanks!
  3. I've been reading up on patina for 5160, and I've seen several things suggested. I'm chopping up a partially finished 5160 greatsword to make a few hunting knives. I'm looking for a deep gray, almost black, that will stand up well to use for things like cutting brush, and even light chopping on a HT blade. Most often I've seen vinegar soak, PCB etchant, and gun bluing suggested for dark patinas. I've also found that gun blue won't work on some tougher steels and most stainless. Do you have any experience with a patina on 5160? What is your favorite? Why?
  4. Hi there! Just wondering if anyone has had success tinting or coloring the classic beeswax/linseed/turpentine mixture? I've definitely made it darker by using black shoe polish. I was wondering about using dyes for coloring candles... Or perhaps gilders paste is the answer? - basically I like making my own coatings where possible and I'm cheap. Thanks, Nate
  5. I have a copper shingle wall that is starting to show fingerprints. It has a brown to black patina on it. I did not do the original work so I do not know what was used for the patina. I am guessing the answer is no but does any one know of a way to clean the oil/finger prints off without striping the patina? And what one could use to get a similar finish in case I do have to strip and re-patina?
  6. Hello all, I stumbled over "Iron Oxide Patinas" heat applied, which seems to me kind of a enameling process. Question: how exactly to do it and what kinds of oxides to use? Who has experience with this process? If you are not sure what I am talking about, here is a link to a shop which actually seems to do it: http://www.artfactory.com/door-grill-hand-forged-patina-finished-gvg12-p-5002.html Have a nice day, Andreas
  7. I've had a small can of black Gilder's paste for over a year and only used it once but I don't think it was in the usual way it is used. I added a small amount to my usual beeswax, boiled linseed and mineral spirits mix to give it a slight darker finish. The mix gave a dark see through finish that was actually pretty cool. Anyways, I know this is not the way it is meant to be used and would like to know how some of you that have had success with this product are going at it. Do you mix the paste with thinner ? other mixes ? How thick do you make your mix ? It is quite dry in the can and seems it would be hard to get it to spread nicely especially in hard to reach areas. Applied cold ? What do you use to apply it, rags ? Same preperation of the metal as for the wax/oil finishes ? Wire wheel ? Sand paper ? Let dry and buff ? As you can see, any basic info will be appreciated... Thanks in advance Naz