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Found 8 results

  1. Really enjoy working with a mixture of copper/steel on a project. Offered to forge and donate the awards for the Creede, CO Sculpture Show this weekend (2017/8/18). A little intimidating making awards for a juried sculpture show. A few mistakes here and there, but still pretty happy with the way they came out.
  2. I've read that to bring out the pattern in Damascus, you need to etch it in acid. I know a fair deal about chemistry and acids, and I am weary about working with them (for obvious reasons) but I do want to do pattern welded knives, eventually. I have de-galvanized steel before using vinegar (weak acetic acid), it takes a while but vinegar is far more safe than more potent acids. I realize that zinc is pretty reactive, so even a weak acid can strip it, but is it possible to etch with vinegar? Would I perhaps have to concentrate it? Also, any general information regarding storage and disposal of acids would be very appreciated, I have very little actual experience with them. The only way I know to dispose of it is to neutralize it and call a hazmat team. Thanks in advance.
  3. I have a long term bronze project I am working on and want to pick everyone's brains about something that occurred to me about the etching I will be doing at some point. I am planning on etching flowers into the surface of my bronze and I thought it would be possible to create a gradient on the petals with my etchant. Essentially, I would apply my resist everywhere but the outline of the flower area; after a short dip in some ferric chloride I would take it out, clean it off, and apply resist to the areas inside the flower design that I want to be the most raised. Then another quick dip, cleaning, and widening of the resist area; I would repeat this until I etch all the way to where I want the deepest etching. In other words, I would create consecutive, concentric etches that I can smooth out post-etching to give a 3-D texture to the design. Does this sound reasonable, or is it wildly impractical? Somewhere inbetween? Would it be better to try to carve out the design with a Dremel?
  4. So my sisters friend who I thought was smarter then this, etched aluminum in a garage with bad ventilation. He told me a bit before this that his etching was releasing some chlorine something gas weaponized by Germans in WW1. This is the first time he etched aluminum and knew about the dangers of wielding it but he assumed that etching aluminum would be fine since he had his shop open at the time. anyway he started violently vomiting and didn't feel in his right mind, stayed out of work yesterday and was still a bit out of it today. Refuses to go to the hospital since the bill was so large last time, anyway what I am getting at is, How worried should I be?
  5. I wanted to try my hand at pattern welding. Had read several places that recommended starting with bandsaw blades and pallet strapping. I just recently stumbled on a small supply of each and went for it. I put together a stack, alternating 15 pieces of sawblade and 14 pieces of strapping. I used 20 Mule Team Borax... probably more generously than necessary lol. But I did manage to forge weld it into a -cough- billet. I then put a gentle twist along it. Flattened it to about 1/4" by about 1/2" Curious s to how it had turned out, I ground a section basically smooth so I could try to see what sort of patterning I'd come up with. Here is the ground and slightly polished piece before etching.http://www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/gallery/category_2/gallery_28530_2_78218.jpg Please forgive the inclusions and cold shunts... I believe I have seen where I screwed up and will try to do better on the next one. I still went on to etch and see the pattern.http://www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/gallery/category_2/gallery_28530_2_41846.jpg I didn't have any of what I could find in the forums and online as etching agents and was about to hunt down a Radio Shack for some Ferric Chloride when I remembered an experiment I had seen, Putting several small balls of aluminum foil in a plastic bottle with about an inch-and-a-half of a certain brand toilet bowl cleaner.http://www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/gallery/category_2/gallery_28530_2_53092.jpg The Works has 20% Hydrogen Chloride. This is the result after fifteen minutes in the solution at room temperature. I used a buffing cone on my dremel to polish the surface somewhat. http://www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/gallery/category_2/gallery_28530_2_13978.jpg I'm actually pretty happy with what I've learned and look forward to a more successful next attempt. Any advice or comments? Anyone else used this cheap method for etching? Or is there an even cheaper method I don't know about?
  6. LastRonin

    At 10min In solution

    I left the piece in a gallon freezer bag with just enough solution to cover it for about fifteen minutes at room temperature.
  7. This is my preliminary polish and etch on my first attempt at pattern welding. It was 29 layers. Alternating bandsaw blade(15layers) and pallet strap(14 layers).
  8. I had the fortune to go home two weeks ago and do some smithing. Regrettably, I can't forge at all where I'm enrolled at UW-Stevens Point, so it was a wonderful experience. Having nothing else to do, I grabbed a strip of mild and an old file, then welded and just kind of had fun with it. After sanding with 400 grit paper and etching in Pepsi this is the end product. As you can see, it is a rather poor example of a two-bar twist billet, about 5 inches long, 3/4 inch wide, and 1/4 inch thick. Red means a crap weld/weld delamination. I've been welding long enough to notice poor welds when I see one, but I tried several times to re-weld without success. Used plenty of borax, and reached proper welding heat. Were the surfaces simply not clean enough? I noticed that even though I sanded the entire bar and was sure not to touch the surface afterwards, one part etched darker than the other, indicated by the yellow line. Any conjecture as to how this happened? The sections outlined in blue are areas of file steel that etched lighter than the same material elsewhere in the billet. Upon closer inspection, these areas have a "pebbly" texture. Is this caused by overheating? I want to branch out and expand my smithing horizons, and I think p-welding is something worth diving into.
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