SLAG

JHCC, Yes indeed, indubitably. Give Yourself, Ms. Lisa and your Son my regards. SLAG.

Mr. Sergeant, Where are you, are you located? We have members in 150 countries. For example, in Australia that might be a good price. In the contiguous United States, you can buy a very good, similar, new anvil for less. Watch this thread. The anvil mavens should appear shortly. Some are returning from Quad state now. Also, doing a little research could save you some cash. Welcome to the site. SLAG.

JHCC, Sayeth, (supra), "Not bad for $3.49". Methinks you just confessed to petty larceny. To me, it surely sounds like a steal. Verlegen is the German word for "published". There are some synonyms. I have discovered that, in the States, books published in foreign languages frequently go for a song. (Which I have taken advantage of). Did you sing on key? Congratulations, and regards, SLAG.

"Entwurfe zeitnaher schmiede arbeirten", Roughly translates to complete contemporary smith(ing?) work. John what is the copyright date for the book? How many pages? It looks like a keeper. Congrats, SLAG.

Good points Frosty, Fuming nitric acid, (HNO3), is term that denotes nitric acid that is 86% acid in water, or higher. The fumes are primarily nitrogen dioxide, (NO2), in solution and also in the vapor. The color is rusty brown. The fumes are highly corrosive and dangerous. Anhydrous nitric acid has white fumes. Its concentration is 98% The nicotine looking hand staining is the result of nitric acid attacking the organic compounds in the skin. (for example chiefly keratin). And also proteins. (big time), and fats. All of the preceding are oxidation reactions. The acid is a very strong oxidant And, there are acid resistant skin creams available. The acid does affect polymers. Neither of us was aware of them years back, when we messed with the chemical and its reactions. (e.g. nitration). It is imperative to know some chemistry and safety procedures, before experimenting with that acid. SLAG.

Correction, to my post just above. Nitric acid is a concentrated corrosive chemical. (usually 68% out of the flask). The wood treatment is done with a dilute solution of that acid. Just about 10%. If you ever attempt to dilute acid, always slowly add the acid into water. NEVER add water into acid. The acid will boil up and often spit into the air. Use gloves, face mask, expendable clothing, (fully covering yourself), and good ventilation while doing so. (ideally outdoors.). SLAG.

JHCC, Effendi, Has just stated, (supra), "... Start saving your money for tailgating NOW !!! " Shall do. Thanks for the heads up. SLAG.

The more common name for aqua fortis is nitric acid. That mild acid is used to give some woods an aged look. The reagent would be around a ten percent solution of nitric acid. Pine and maple wood are often treated with that chemical. Please look up safety sheets for handling mineral acids, before using those reagents. They can give a nasty burn or even kill you. SLAG.

Glenn, Do you hear Mr. Killbox? Also; I SLAG. second the idea. To me it sounds like a sound plan. Tuck away the modesty, and go for Bunkie! SLAG.

Mr. Pr3ssure, Mr. Sells's book is not just knife making. He has good information on blacksmithing in general. And also heat treating, and good metallurgy notes, too. Lillico's book is, in my opinion not beginner blacksmithing material. He was an 'engineer's' blacksmith. Highly skilled and working to high tolerances. (in the 1950's and earlier) Check out the blacksmith C.O.S.I.R.A. series of books. Available on the B.A.M. site. There are at least 7 or 8 books on various topics. Carry on Pilgrim. It is a great and practical craft. Which can keep you learning and progressing for a lifetime. Cheerio, SLAG.

How about a few $$$ for Glenn. He pays for all the upkeep & costs of this site. He also has some charming T-shirts for sale displayed on this site. And some other merchandise. (hammers etc.) SLAG.

Ausfire, Would Qantas accept anvils with handles for carry on luggage? JHCC. I do not see any bullet holes in your handsome chapeau. How come? Regards, SLAG. See you there next year, Frosty, Steve (Sells), et al, next year. I will have to get Marg, (The Marvelous), interested in wool weaving, spinning, and wool gathering, next year. Mr. JHCC, If they have placed a bounty for your arrest, capture, and successful prosecution, I might very well be interested. Is you hat an Australian digger hat? Have a great time Bunkie!

Mr. Pr3ssure Sir, I have a strong feeling that you are indeed interested in the heat treatment of steel, for sheer interest. But, also, for practical information for a project that you have in mind. or just made. In order to give answers to some of your questions, we need more information concerning what you propose to make. Perhaps a knife or less likely, a barrel hinge etc. So what object have you made or have in mind? (I repeat myself, but it is early in the day for this night owl). What type of steel are you working with? Each type of steel (alloy), requires a different treatment, re time temperature quenching media, (e.g. oil, water air, cryo treatment) etc. So: such information is crucial for us to formulate an answer. You are right about the best approach for developing as a smith. Namely the combination of Information, hands-on instruction, and repetition (experience). I recommend the following books: 1) Lorelei Sims the "Backyard Blacksmith", (SLAG strongly suggests that you read it from cover to cover. In order to get a good overview of the craft and a scope of techniques, and what can be accomplished). 2) Mark Aspery's, first book in his "Skills of a blacksmith", series. Skip volumes 2 & 3 for now., And 3) "country Blacksmithing" by Charles McRaven. Consult the last two for specific topics. Your books, you have, are very good too. Use them. Glenn's suggestion to check out the book reviews section here is a very good one. There is another book review section at Jock's, (Guru), site too. I suggest that you buy Steve Sells, knife making book, Introduction To knifemaking, which is available, for order on this site. BEWARE of getting cought up studying books. Too much of that, is a form of procrastination, you want to get started. Commence hammering metal And initially, sometimes, making a mess. Incidentally. the latter is a specialty, of SLAG Industries (p.l.c.) I suggest that you start out smithing mild steel, first. Then, progress to high carbon steel for knives) , (e.g. the 1075 and up, carbon alloys steels) . And further down the road specialty alloy steels. (such as, 4120, w3, O1, S7,) etc. Hope that helps. SLAG. One day you may wish to progress to the study of ferrous metallurgy, and join a select, rarified group of i.f.i. enthusiasts!

Ranchman..., They eat Canadian bacon in Canada. There, it is called back bacon. The more common pork belly derived bacon tastes different and is even more commonly consumed in the great white north. Incidentally, each variety has a different taste and texture, form the other ( and in the good old U.S.A. ) SLAG.

Comrade JHCC, A scissors tool is usually braced in the arm pit, whilst metal spinning. Usage was innocent of any "hanky panky". Right Frosty? SLAG.