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Found 7 results

  1. I notice some new lasers, designed for paint prep, that remove rust and oil and even loose paint. Has anyone here tried one yet? They look amazing in the videos! At around the $200 or $300 price level for the cheaper ones... they seem accessible for small shops. It looks to me like they might be extremely useful on projects with complex surfaces! I think they might also work to remove scale! I’d like to hear advice from anyone who has tried one out.
  2. I was recently perusing my 14th edition copy of Machinery's Handbook (dated 1953) and came across the following quote in the chapter on mounting anvils (when discussing mounting anvils on cast iron or hardwood stands): "An anvil should not be strapped rigidly to its foundation, as this checks the vibration which tends to keep the face free from scales, and renders a high-grade wrought-iron anvil little better than one made of cast iron. When a wooden block is used under the anvil, it is necessary to drive in a few spikes to keep the anvil in place, but these should be so placed that they do not bear upon or bind against the corners" Thought that was interesting as it pretty much goes directly against conventional modern wisdom regarding anvil mounting on stands. Of course they also advocate getting an anvil of 300# for machine blacksmithing "if of this weight or heavier, it will not move around while in use or need to be strapped to its block". I guess if you are lucky enough to have a shop anvil of that kind of weight you are all set. Lots of good stuff in this book, still being published in it's 30th edition. You can freely download a copy an older version than I have in hardcover (1914 edition) from Google Books here: http://www.woodworkslibrary.com/repository/machinery_handbook_for_machine_shop_and_drafting_room_1914.pdf which has the same section as well as info on making tongs, heat treating...
  3. I heard about removing rust using molassas, what nonsense. But I had half a bottle in the refrigeraor and decided to give it a try. I put an old hammerhead covered mostly with rust and some remnants of the original red paint into a half and half mixture of molassas and water and sealed it up in a glass jar and put it out on the porch. Nothing happened for a couple of days. I left it soak for the rest of the week. Then I noticed some yellow scum floating on top and checked it again. The rust had turned to a black sludge that you could rub off with your fingers and the paint had loosened up to the point that it could be removed with a nylon scrub brush. I have used vinegar to remove scale but the stink is too much for me.. Does anyone understand whats happening with the molassas ??
  4. Here's a quick question for an expert... I get a good bit of molten slag or scale in my forge. I've been forging meteorite iron and I'm not sure if the liquid in the forge is molten slag or molten scale or something else. I use to think it was excess borax from welding, however in my new forge I get a good amount of this molten material and I haven't used any borax flux. I typically scrape most of this liquid out while forging. I'm surprised how much there is. I keep the forge really hot because of the nickel content of the iron so I forge at welding temperatures pretty much all of the time. A couple of questions: 1. Is this molten slag or molten scale (or is that the same thing)? When it cools it's brittle with a much lower density than iron. Would meteorite cause more of this material than normal iron? 2. I forge welded some pieces of meteorite without using borax flux. I actually used the molten material to see if it would act as a flux and it squired out just like the borax flux does and it appears that I have a good weld. Have you ever heard of that before? Does this molten material help in anyway with a weld, or does it hurt the weld versus just cleaning the metal with a brush before putting it back into the forge to get it up to welding temperature? Thanks!!! James in Orlando, FL
  5. Hi All, I know there have been various discussions about scale in the past, I've had a look and they have been helpful. My problem is with the making of ladle bowls and the buildup of scale within the bowl. As the bowl takes shape (I hammer it into a home made former) the scale becomes harder and harder to remove by brush due to the shape of the bowl (can't get my brush in there). In the time take to forge the bowl, the scale builds up and becomes very hard (no doubt due to hammering). I've tried vinegar as apickle but I find it relatively slow and even after a couple days hasn't always loosened up the really hard embedded scale. I'd rather not use anything highly toxic, or particularly dangerous to handle. An thoughts? THanks!
  6. This is a question for a blacksmith/chemist. When I forge mild steel a lot of scale piles up around the anvil. Is this scale chemically similar to magnetite (Fe2 3O4). I meed a couple of ounces of powdered magnetite for some hand made electrical inductors. Powdered magnetite is available commercially but I only need a couple of ounces and I have a lifetime's worth of scale around the anvil. Thanks
  7. Need some help here. I have read in David Boye's book "Step By Step Knifemaking" that you can use brake shoe rivets as pins for knife handles. (p145) A female 7 and a male 5 fit each other. The problem is that I have gone to Oreilly's and Fastenal and neither has or know what the product is. They have what I call pop rivets but its not even remotely the same thing. I still owe the guys in my wedding party the knives I promised them so any and all help will be very appreciated.